The floors turned out lovely 😍!, I really like how you always explain the process, and watching you and your wife working together ❤ is very nice 👌 😊👍💕💕💕
The trick too a glass like finish is clean floors to start apply finish evenly north south direction, secound coat east west let dry 48 hours. Wash floor then use buffer with red buffing pad wash floor. last buff use white pad and high speed burnisher . vacuum area it will look wet when finished I been doing floors for years
I am in the process of using the same epoxy to do my floor in my home the same way could I skip using the polyurethane for a satin finish if I buff using the red buffing pad for a satin finish?
Floors look Awesome! Great Job working together. Will be Soo much easier to keep clean with the Kids. Can't wait to see All finished. Hugs from Yuma, Arizona 👍🥰💞💞💞
Great idea Paul, using epoxy on concrete! I've only seen using epoxy on fiberglass and wood... Of course, it can also be used on other materials. Big hug Paul! 😀💪💪💪💪
Considering all the hurdles you've had to jump over, to this point, you should be all set to handle any disappointments that may befall you in whatever the future holds. Floor is beautiful. For any 'blemished' areas you may see a throw rug works wonders. Thanks for all the great videos.
Awesome! Been watching most of the build, and impressed. I feared the grouting would leave stains, but looks great! No builder would do the detail you all do. Insulation was a setback, but good found and fixed early. I probably pay too much $ for my cold air returns passing thru unconditioned attic. I think the details you did are great. Some minor things on house I would have done a little different, but nothing wrong. Not gonna be an internet troll. Selling soon? Parts of Iowa might be better than western Oregon for livability and taxes.
BPA, bisphenol A, and radiant heat don't go together. The radiant continously releases BHA into the atmosphere of the house when heated. Did you read the label contains BPA!
When covid is over I would love to help you with your next time. I use to use this polyurethane on a Pizza pizza restaurant floor every two weeks and buff it in between. You would think this would make it hard enough that I wouldn't have to do the floor so often but it was where they stood to decorate the pizza's.
I'm curious, if you wanted a matte finish, why not just grind it, then wax and polish? My trouble with epoxies is that eventually they will get dulled/scratched/fade under foot traffic, wax and burnishing is forever, (so long as you keep doing it every couple years haha)
Tons of work but you will surely get out of that floor lots of life. I wouldn't have thought to put the satin on top, that would be my preference also.
After all that mopping and vacuuming you better get her a maid to keep it clean she deserves it ! Floor looks awesome,the whole house looks awesome glad you got the moisture problem fixed I felt so bad you had to redo all that drywall.
Epoxy can seal problem concrete; but you're correct. Polishing to a high grit can give you a 'depth look" which can be satin finished. There are many other benefits to a high polish such as ease of maintenance and a denser wear surface. Acid staining can provide a large pallet of design and color choice, a lythic densifier can yield a very hard long lasting surface.
A few questions. when they ground the floor, how did they do the corners? I am assuming that this is a a water based epoxy or I would think it would stink you out of the house. Same about the Polyurethane? Is it water borne? where did you get your squeegee and the cleats. And one last question, what happened to your face? :) We're going to finish the family room in our basement. We had previously we had stained and sealed the bedroom downstairs. This turned out to be less than desirable. Our problem was that the concrete had been sealed and though we thought we'd gotten the sealer up, we did not get it all. For the family room we have several gallons of citrus based strippers and a 30 grit diamond pad for a buffer. Hoping we can get it all up this time. The sealer we used was petroleum based and stunk to high heaven.
marshallremodel.com/concrete-floors-with-epoxy-sealer-polyurethane/ this lists everything we did in detail. Epoxy with poly satin finish to cut the shine. grout is black grout. Have him email us if he has questions, but if he watches the video and reads the post it should explain it well enough. info@marshallremodel.com
Did your partnered supplier not give you both cleats? That sucks. But we all enjoy your workaround. Q: was there no need to tape off the drywall and wood? No splashes with the epoxy?
Question. Would PU topcoat adhere sufficiently to the epoxy? I always understood never to use PU resin where you need a good bond. Perhaps the abrasion will prevent delamination.
I don't think acetone is an _extreme_ fire hazard. It is an ordinary hazard though. And that only exists for the few minutes it takes for the acetone to evaporate.
So, everything you've done on this build from the beginning has been very impressive. I have great anticipation for the next videos in this series. However, this concrete floor final finish was very disappointing. I hope it looks better in person 'cuz on the video it comes across as a warehouse look. With all the RU-vid channels doing epoxy finishes on floors, why didn't you choose something with a nicer finished look? On the other hand, perhaps you really like the warehouse look in your home.
@@MrPostFrame Does that include the slab? I think you said $0.50/Sqft for grinding and then I see the epoxy is about $230/3 gallons. Other than the saw cuts and grout, Im not sure what more raised it to $4-5? It looks phenomenal!
It is of topic, but,… he keep safe! Don’t know what you did, but you must have taken tumble…. Good to see along the video that you are taking normal proportions again. Be safe dad!
