Jay - Thank you for doing this video. I had the same issue as you and just finished removing my pvc expansion strips and purchased the same rubber joint filler. I found a sharpened chisel worked well in removing the cap and the sides. Thanks again!
Thank you! The expansion joints around my pool are the plastic inset type, are now just over ten years old and were starting to come up. I am currently having my pool renovated and the original bid was just to do the deck-o-seal right around the pool coping; it didn't include this part. I didn't know any better and thought that my original bid to do deck-o-seal would include all of the expansion joints -- so that everything would match, right? But Nooooo...the pool company wants an additional $500 to replace all of them so I said no thank you ... and will do it myself. I have watched several videos and yours was the closest to what I need to do and the least mess. And like I said, thankfully all of the joint insets came out very clean. I just will need to get out the blower, super clean the joints and WOOLA! I can do this! Thank you! :D
Hey thanks for the video. (1) What is the purpose of replacing those expansion joints? in fact, (2) what was the point of putting those joints in, in the first place?
My understanding is the expansion joints allow the concrete to expand and contract with the hot and cold seasons and prevent the concrete from either cracking or butting up together and raising like tectonic plates shifting. Very layman answer
So, would this work to replace the old self leveling mastic that has been between the coping & decking or would I need to use new mastic because this stuff doesn’t keep the water OUT?
Thanks Jay for your video. Do you know where I can buy the front curved expansion joint that shows on your video around 2:22. I need to replace the full length of the joint in my case and not only the flat part. Thank you
That piece on the end near the pool is hard plastic that is cemented in. I am not sure where to get that piece. My best guess would be to call a pool installation company and see where they get that part. Sorry I didn’t have a better answer, good luck.
How deep was the channel once you removed everything and what width. It looks like i would need the 3/4 width but it seems kind of high (i only have 1/2 of depth now that i have removed all the white cracked old stuff). wold really like to do this to my deck! but not sure its going to work.
The reason it’s all cracked and broken is because it’s what’s known as zip strip and it was never intended to remain exposed. It was supposed to have the top cap removed leaving a perfect joint to caulk. The piece of plastic that remains provides a surface that the sealant won’t bond too so you don’t get a 3 sided bond. You used a really slow method to remove it. All you have to do is run a 5 in 1 down both sides between the plastic and the concrete and it will pop out. That is how it’s designed. It is a very bad idea to not seal those joints. Like they were designed to be. Getting water under a slab is always a bad idea
These are not zip strips we're seeing in the video. They are one piece plastic strips. The top cannot be removed. They crack and become brittle because of age and wear and tear.
1:15-1:18 you can see the top removable piece in the middle of the picture, a little to the left of center you can see the sides of the removable part sticking up above the non removable part. And when he uses the screw driver and hammer you can see areas where the top cap pops off leaving the lower cap.I have removed miles of it before caulking. The non removable type is a single plastic cap over asphalt board without the top removable part. It is very obvious it IS zip strip. The non removable type doesn’t have this second cap. He even says after removing the zip strip ,that the “hard part is removing the remaining plastic cap.” Again it is very obvious it IS zip strip and should have been caulked when it was built. Zip strip IS NOT MEANT TO BE EXPOSED. The plastic will deteriorate. He mentions that he was told this was obsolete. He is wrong. What is obsolete is the type you are talking about and it has been obsolete ( only used for very cheap pours) for decades. I have been caulking this type of zip strip for decades.
@@jordansaipaia7874 for fairly level (not a sloped driveway) there are a couple of good self leveling brands. Sika self leveling, Tremco Vulkem 45 ssl( actually a semi self leveling and much easier to use) and master seal SL1 are all good quality products that are available to the consumer. Pros almost never use 1 part polyurethane for decks but 2 part is much more difficult for a homeowner to install. Make sure to use very tight fitting backer rod and keep the width to depth ratio 2:1( twice as wide as it is deep) but never less than1/4” nor more than 1/2” deep.
