Sam as long as your tubes are plumb you can take a piece of poster board and wrap it around the tubes so the ends line up and just draw a line around the tube. 👍👍
Regarding rusted rebar. I'm a retired architect, while in Haiti doing aid work, Habitant for Humanity was experiencing big cracking in their foundations and asked my advice. At the job site, I couldn't find anything wrong and the cause of the large cracks in thier foundations ...UNYIL I saw their rebar ...they had kept it all under cover and well oiled it so it won't RUST! I told them to wip the oil off the rebar and leave the rebar in the rain so as it will RUST! They had no problems with cracking foundtions from that point on.
I misunderstood the use of the pink fiberglass rebar, but you corrected me. Thank you. Can't wait for the build to begin. Thank you Angela for helping on the foundation piers.
Looking great Sam! The framing is always the fun part where you really see it take shape. I remember building my garage / shop and once I got the walls up and roof trusses in thinking dang this is a big structure. Now that I’m all moved in it feels much smaller.
I totally agree! I'm lagging behind a little bit on reality vs. video editing (have been taking advantage of the dry weather and working as much as I can), so I can honestly say the walls being up make it feel great! It's nice to see the space to begin to think about layout of things. :)
A piece of bristol board works as a "pipe wrap" of sorts as well for taking a pencil mark all the way around a Sonotube. Just cut a strip about 6-8 inches wide off the long side, wrap it around the pipe at your pencil mark making sure the factory edges line up at the mark, and trace your line around the tube.
Also ...line the Simpson anchors with #30 felt as all wood will eventually rot in contact with metal or concert ...and lay down .06 mil vapor barrier on the ground under where the structure is going "before" you start the framing. 🤪
Absolutely love your videos. I'm learning a lot. I hope you can advise me on what to do. I was having a simple deck built on the back of my house. Max height is 1'6". The contractor poured the 12" wide 36" deep piers unevenly and some are TOO HIGH! Can I cut the piers down, cut a hole to put the 6x6 adjustable bases in. I'll be putting triple 2x10s onto the notched 6x6's. If I can't do this, do I pull the piers up with a farm jack, dig the hole deeper and put back in? I really hope you can advise me. Thank you-Jim
Hi sam. Looking good so far. I jojned you on your first shop build. Going to be a beast. I do have a question that your probably gojng to cover in the next video but, how are you gonna stop water from sitting on top of the concrete posts potentially rotting your timbers? Thinking about it, there shouldn't be any if all is watertight. Thanks for sharing
The piers sit completely underneath the structure so no water should ever get to that point. The more real possibility is the concrete wicking up moisture from the ground which is why treated lumber must always be used when in contact with concrete.
My husband and I are planning to do some similar piers with cardboard concrete tubes. Do you remember about how many bags (and what size) of concrete you needed for this? Also, how did you calculate what diameter you wanted to use? You've earned a new subscriber today with your straightforward, easy to follow videos that aren't trying to sell us a million products, etc. Thank you!!
What's the difference between making a rebar cage for the pier vs just placing the rebar in after the concrete pour? Putting them in after seems significantly easier to me. Building a tiny house with a pier and beam foundation and trying to figure out if I should make the rebar cages or just place them like you did.
Hey brother, been watching your channel for a minute and wanted to let you know that we used your link to xTool and bought the F1 with a slide under your code. I especially wanted you to get credit for steering us in the right direction! Being close to retirement we needed something that we enjoyed to keep us busy and supplement our almost zero income thanks to GVT screwups, uh Joebronie. Thank you so much from me and my girl. Next, we're buying all your files... Go figure, right? Do you have a bottle opener jig? We are getting a CR Falcon 20w, can you help us get the camera on it so it will do like the OMtech and align multiple objects? Thank you again!
I think these are 48" -- they will stick out the ends of pallets. I like them being longer. It can be a tripping hazard depending how you park the loader, but I like them all the same. These were the best deal around for the SSQA forks and have been a great addition!
Most of the time i feel as tho something like rebar inside of concrete theoretically will outlast the rest of my lifespan THUS why pay extra for something that will be someone elses problem later down the road after im dead lol
Im building a free standing deck, and im trying to calculate my footings and posts. Its going to be 10 feet off the ground and im using 6x6 posts, and either 6x6 beams, or multiple 2x12 nailed together as the beams. Does anyone know how much distance between the posts i need to aim for? Im hoping for less posts so i have more space under the deck to park equipment. Should i go every 8 foot of beam? Or can i get away with a 12-14 foot span between posts? Any help would be great
I built a 16’x48’ deck, cantilevered from my home, 20 years ago. The superstructure is all green, the top is white cedar planks. I have repaired about 1/3 of the boards in the last few years. I used 10” diameter piers 48” deep (code minimum was 42” deep), they are spaced 4’ apart or 13 piers. They are level with the ground. I used 2x10’s every 16”, and a 48’ long beam of 2x10’s, 1/2” plywood spacer. Finished height is 20”. I used a deck building computer at Menards (I’m in the Chicago area, check with Lowe’s or Home Depot if there’s no Menards). I submitted these plans to our HOA and then the Village for a permit, they accepted it, I paid $60 for the permit and they also gave me a “Job Site Plan” that had some requirements of the Village (like minimum depth of piers, stair sizing, etc.). I started March 15 and finished August 15. I worked with my 10 year old grandson every day after work for a couple of hours, and all day Saturday. I had help putting in the 2 stair cases and the top one Saturday (4 of us), we completed this in 8 hours. PS: I also did a brick veneer on the front of the home and 2 large masonry fireplaces along with this permit. 20 years later everything is in good condition.
I don't know that it is necessary, but I removed it to prevent it becoming a nice cozy habitat for bugs to then migrate into my workshop easier. :) That, and it looks better I think.
Seems like you created a lot more work by installing sauna tubes and pouring that high of piers where just pouring down below frost line approx 24 x24 footer and then using 6x6 post to support the structure
