Another great vid ... just poured 85 sixty pound bags in an old basement (about 4 inch thick) and had to form it out in sections of 15 bags each. One section i was tooo exhausted and poured too much water and over worked the surface and that section had a few large areas of dusting. Used pure portland as a paint after cleaning off the dusty surface as much as possible to prime the surface after I wet the concrete. It came out fine so far. Wish i saw this 1st!! Thanks again for your informative vids.
2 variables that could improve results. Prime seal the raw concrete after grinding or mist the concrete so the resurfacer does not lose all moisture too quickly, allowing your broom finish to be smoother and the bond will be better. Prime sealing will also give you better color uniformity. After a resurface, you should seal the new concrete for added protection from stains and weather.
Man that porch looks dead level! Could the fact that there's not enough slope have lead to the spalling? Must take along time for water to evaporate off that surface... Great vid!
Looks good, I will look into renting a grinder. You mentioned it was likely originally sealed poorly, do you need to do something after refinishing to seal it correctly?
Thanks for the video. Have a concrete driveway where the ice melt spalled in small sections. Can you repair the spots or do you have to resurface the entire driveway? I know all jobs are prices specifically, but what would be a general cost of the patio you did in your video?
Hey Mr. day, Is it OK just to resurface sections of a driveway. Just asking because I didn’t know after using the Ardex if it will match the other parts that I wasn’t going to resurface?
It will hold up we use this where semi trucks pass on and it holds up good but it has a different color to concrete which is why it's best to the whole square unless you don't care about the colors then you could do sections but it will hold up for a while I use this material EVERYDAY at work
It holds up we use this on roads where nothing but trucks drive on it and it's been good for like 7 years also this ardex CP is good to patch holes in concrete walls it's sticks very good and doesn't crack
Mike i have a horrible cracked parking pad into the garage. If I pressure wash the concrete extremely good, plus remove loose material, could I mix this up to fill in all the gaps/cracks? Then come back and resurface it all without grinding? Its so bad....like cracks everywhere but I can't afford to replace it
Open the cracks more probably half an inch with a grinder and a cutting blade clean them out and then put Pegabond in the cracks, let it dry and then do this video exactly how Mike did it and that should do it
It can be from a wet mix and/or over floating. Also from using de-icers. Having a good contractor and properly informed owner usually takes care of this problem. Sealing the concrete is important also.
@@MikeDayConcrete Hi Mike. Multiple factors to be sure. Here's a link to a picture of my driveway. The two sections were poured about a day apart and when contractors (original or consultants for repair) want to blame it on the one time I used salt, I have to be a little skeptical. It started to show signs of wear within months of installation and before salt was ever used. drive.google.com/file/d/1UHdVr_yM9FMIIeGFuHSfF5xJd39LcKi0/view?usp=sharing
Often, when called to customers homes with badly spalled concrete in the garage you can tell exactly where the cars sit as the drip the salty water off the cars. In the corners, and areas where cars do not drive, the concrete is often in great shape.
I am in an HOA that spent over $300,000 replacing asphalt driveways with concrete. Two and three years later we spent $150,000 partially replacing concrete. We had it tested and the lab concluded it was overworked at the wrong time. But up to the lab report, everyone blamed it on salt or de icers and bad sealer. Even driveways that had no use over winter (second homes) spalled.
Mr. Day is there any manufacturer's suggested curing procedure for this fast cure product? You didn't seem to mention it. Some of the other toppings i have experience with say water spray or moisture during the short cure period.
This is right from the Ardex Tech Data Sheet about curing "Although ARDEX CD requires no special curing procedures, avoid applying this product if rain is expected within 6 to 8 hours or freezing temperatures could occur within 24 hours of application. As with any cementitious material, these conditions can alter the appearance and performance of the dressing."
Mark, if you need to repair your garage floor, search for my crack repair videos. That's what we use to repair spalling, cracks, chips and more on garage floors before we epoxy them. The product is called CrackWeld
Thanks for your video! If there was already a sealant applied to this slab, would this resurfacer adhere well or does the grinding ensure that any prior chemical bonds that could interfere are gone?
Will this work on a driveway? The concrete company who poured my driveway charged me $10,000. We did not park cars on the driveway for three weeks and did not use salt on the driveway. It started spalling within 6 weeks. I’m on a fixed income and cannot afford to have a new driveway poured. It’s a three car driveway. 😢😢😢😢
Ardex recommends that the concrete is very clean, either through grinding or pressure washing. When the material (Ardex Cd) is applied however, the substrate is recommended to be completely dry.
The concrete patio at my friend's house is far worse than this. There is so much concrete in their back yard area that is in really bad shape. I'm not sure if it can be salvaged but any tips would be much appreciated
Open the cracks more probably half an inch with a grinder and a cutting blade clean them out and then put Pegabond in the cracks, let it dry and then do this video exactly how Mike did it and that should do it 7:41
Judging from the type of front door I would guess this is business with multiple parking spots and customers walking upto sidwalk at different places. Hence... salt spread over entire walkway.
I'd cover the outer walls of the home up at least two feet high It's far too easy to splatter material onto the siding or glass. And good luck getting it off, once it's there. Parking lot asphalt should be taped off, too.
We are planning to start our own concrete company, however, we are not sure how to make the contracts for a job. I have 10 years of concrete experience. I just don't have experience of Bidding nor contracts. Please Help. Also, do you charge your projects by the sq ft or by the job?
Charging for projects (floors, slabs, stamped concrete, staining concrete) is done by the sq. ft. Smaller projects like 500 sf or under is done by the job with a minimum charge for labor. Bidding is so different around the US, I'm not sure what people charge where you live. Start by figuring your materials then what you need for a minimum per day for labor to make a profit.
@@MikeDayConcrete Thank You for your advice. What are your thoughts on the Medusa Walking Saw? Also, would you happen to have an example contract you could show us? We live in Wyoming and we still have a lot of snow on the ground. We are waiting for it to warm up some more the ground is still frozen.
@@amandamartinez6115 check out the nextdoor app. (It is like facebook for your neighborhood) I get a lot of small jobs off that. And the beauty of it is, they are all in my neighborhood so it's super close and easy to build reputation. Also: craigslist, meetup (u can approach real estate groups etc. and see if someone will let you do a small job for a decent price to get to build relationships) or check with local remodelling companies, they frequently do not do their own concrete work. Also: facebook!
I would of at least washed it off , just to get that dust off . How does that shit hold up? I've had luck with t1000 overlay from Butterfield Products. Do a one year later video on that job , I'd like to see it lasts.
Donald - this is from the Ardex CD data sheet : All concrete substrates must be structurally sound, solid, thoroughly clean and free of any form release, sealers or paints, patching compounds, dust, dirt, oils and any other contaminant that could act as a bond breaker. If necessary, mechanically clean the floor down to sound, solid concrete by shot blasting, grinding or similar. High-pressure (5000 psi) power washing may also be used to remove dust, dirt and debris, though the concrete must then be allowed to dry thoroughly before proceeding. I could have washed it off, but I only had a small window to get this done (Sunday) It's a place of business open 6 days a week. I didn't have time to let it dry out for a day before resurfacing it and Ardex doesn't require us to wash it or prep, grind and vac is good. I've had good luck with this product. I also use a lot of Butterfield products. We stamp a lot of concrete and use their integral color as well as their stampable overlay.
It said it self free from dust , so your vacuuming isn't enough to get rid of dust . I totally understand time frame but if you washed it early am or Saturday evening ( if possible). I feel would of been better . Not hating just saying!
@@donaldloos2049 if you live close and want another trip back, and the weather is favorable, and the business is closed long enough, then washing it off wouldn't hurt. Specs are for application over dry concrete though. This product wears well and I have done gas stations with it before around the pumps. In northern climates, you should still seal it with a good sealer to prevent similar problems from occuring again.
Your broom finish is too ruff....I hate that rough of a texture on concrete. I would let it dry a little more and then use a finer broom for a nicer look
I ain’t gon lie wtf is that. Never seen anything like this in my life. I get the customer is probably cheap but I would of told them the only way is to rip it out and pour new concrete. If they don’t like that then call someone else to do it
