Best video I've seen that clearly explains the differences between painting and staining concrete. I've been painting latex paint on my concrete artwork since 2001 and always wondered about staining vs painting. Thanks a ton for the video!
Awesome video! Great information- I’m picking up acid stain to do my driveway. Im a concrete contractor and poured about 2 weeks ago so I’m definitely going to be reading into the stain to see if i need to wait 30 days for the concrete to be fully cured before staining. Thanks for the info
Thanks for the comment! If the slab is currently unsealed, the best thing for that would be Revival. Water-based stains could also be an option, but they won't be as opaque, and it would need to be sealed after the staining. I'll leave a link to our how-to video and the seals page on our website. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8w5MZBK9HXg.html www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/sealers-coatings-deco-crete-revival/deco-crete-revival-stain-kit
Thanks for the comment! Any of these stains will color mortar, but the color will probably be a bit different then if it was applied to concrete. I would recommend trying the water based stain first and it'll the easiest to use. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
We had our driveway in Phoenix AZ stained and sealed two years ago. It started to flake within a couple month. Now the sealer is peeling in large pieces and has lost the stain color in some areas. What is the best remedy for this?
Thanks for the comment! These kinds of situations are tough because there are a verity of things that could lead to this. What kind of stain was used, how did they prep the surface, was the stain over applied, and what kind of sealer? The first thing I would do is contact the contractor that did the job, they might be able to fix the problem. At verry least, they should be able to give you all the info so you put together a plan for the best way fixing this. Sometimes the only way to completely solve the problem is to remove all the sealer and start over. If you do end up redoing it, acid stain would the longest lasting stain option. Hopefully this helps. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
Good info thanks! Here's a question: My aggregate patio slab was stained and sealed with an acrylic sealer 4-5 years ago and the sealant is pretty much broken down to nothing. Before I re-stain (with an acid) how should I prep it?(I've already power washed it) I'm a bit concerned the stain wont take in the couple of areas that were protected by the shade. Oh, and this time I'm using solvent based sealer. Thanks for you help!
I understand your concerns, and yes, acid stain will be a little bit tricky for this application. Is there a reason you need to restain before you seal? You may be better off just re-sealing.
@@DecoCreteTV Thanks for the prompt reply! Yes, several years ago I believe I re stained the patio while there was old sealant still on it that I should have removed. I've learned much since then about proper preparation. The colour is spotty and faded and I'd like it a bit darker. I've learned that Zylene or another product called "Resolve" will take up the existing sealant. Yes, I've also tested the patio surface and found out there still is quite a bit of sealant yet to be removed. The product Resolve is more expensive than Zylene and I understand the concerns of this chemical but haven't yet decided which to use. Your input would be appreciated. After that I will stain then re seal with solvent based clear coat. Your input is appreciated.
Fantastic. Thanks for spelling it out. Are there similar differences for if you add color during the mixing/laying process when it comes to products or do they all just boil down to "pigment" or "dye" like you would use in paint or dying clothes? I'm wondering if some skills/knowledge may be transferable here
for coloring fresh concrete the options are integral color and color hardener. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XBboCF0xbJs.html this video will explain color hardener. stay tuned for a future video on this topic!
I poured a brand new slab and planning on using acid stain after 30 days. Do I need to do anything prior to applying the acid stain like etching and neutralizing? Or will I be fine by just power washing the concrete prior to applying the stain?
There's no need to neutralize before staining, just cleaning with water is generally all you need. Etching would only be needed if the finish is really hard and the stain is having trouble penetrating the surface. Most exterior jobs just require a power wash. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!!!
We used our Antique Release www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/deco-crete-antique-release/deco-crete-antique-release to get those highlights and then we used our stain on top of that.
Thanks for the comment! We've never tried that before, but I think a water based stain would work best. It should color it fine and it'll be easy to work with. You'd just see how long it lasts & you may have to re-apply it at some point. This would verry different then staining a concrete slab & I wouldn't put any kind of sealer on it in this case. That way you could touch it up as needed whenever you want. I'll leave a link below to the WB Concrete Stain page on our website. If you end up trying it, please let us know how worked. Thanks for checking out our channel👍 www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/stains/deco-crete-wb-concrete-stain
My patio guy mixed the release powder with sealant cause he used the wrong color while doing the stamping🤦🏻♀️ what can I expect to happen in the future? Will the base color pop up eventually? Ugh!
Mixing release with sealer to fix minor color problems is a fairly common practice. It is a band-aid of sorts, as the color will fade away as the sealer wears off. This can be avoided if you keep up on the sealer. A fresh coat clear sealer every 3-4 years should keep the coat with the color in place. If this method was used to completely recolor the slab, it could be more problematic down the road. If you get to a point where the sealer all wares/flakes off, and you need to do something different, we would recommend Revival for the primary color and Texture Enhancer for the antiquing. I'll leave a few links for those products. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!! www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/deco-crete-revival-sealers-coatings-stains/deco-crete-revival www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/antiquing-agent/texture-enhancer-antique-agent
Thanks for the comment! Yes, the concrete needs to be completely cured out before applying any stain. 30 days is the industry standard for cure time. Stain will color the concrete just fine before that, but it won't last verry long. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
Thanks for the comment!! Are saying that the floor is already stained and/or sealed? If so, you would need to remove the sealer first. The best thing for interior floors is a diamond grind followed by acetone dye and a urethane or polyaspartic top coat. If the concrete is unsealed and in good shape, acid stain would be good option. Hopefully this helps! Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
Thank you so much for responding. My family and I are in the process of looking for a new home. I found two homes that I like but hate the color of the stained concrete. Didn't know if it was an option to change the color. Is that a very expensive process? It would be about 3,000 square feet that would need to be redone.
@@bethanyphillips212 The price for redoing an existing stained concrete floor can vary a lot depending on what's there and what you are looking for. The best thing would be to contact some local concrete floor coating contractors to get a quote on the price.
yes in most cases. we recommend D1 sealer for most horizontal surfaces and D-Shield Clear for vertical surfaces www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/decorative-concrete-sealers-solvent-based-sealer/d-one-5-gallon www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/water-based-sealers/d-shield-clear
Thanks for the comment! It's hard to give an exact lifespan for concrete stain outdoors. There are so many variables - the type of stain, the concrete itself, whether it's vertical or a flat slab. Acid stain is by far the most permanent, you should get 10 plus years out of it. But, the color options are limited and it doesn't look as good as water based stains for vertical concrete. Water based stains seem to last quite a while on vertical concrete & concrete overlays, but I would stick to acid stain for full thickness concrete slabs. Any time you stain exterior concrete with a water based stain, there's always a chance of needing to re-apply at some point. Thanks for watching!!
Great video very informative for a newbie. I’m an artist wanting to stencil on fresh concrete columns supporting a (outdoor) birding platform that will be constructed at a state park -the platform will overlook a lake. At first I was going to use acrylic paints, but am wondering if staining the design (medallion) on the concrete would last longer. Could you give me insights on what would be best and why? The columns are vertical, will be in partial sun, and humidity from lake water may be an issue. (I volunteer for a nonprofit organization creating the birding platform and am willing to enhance this project with art so, it’s important to me to do this right.) Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
Make sure the concrete has time to cure out (~30 days). I would recommend water based stains as apposed to acrylic paint, just because the water based stains will penetrate a little bit and last a little longer. Sounds like a fun project! Thanks for watching!
