CONNECTING ROD BEARING NOISE? SPUN BEARINGS? HOW DOES ROD KNOCK SOUND LIKE? 

Did you figure it out I'm having the same exact issue with a gas motor and was planning a big trip in a month and really don't want to cancel

Damn that bad huh 😢

How did it go

Soo how’d it go?

@LukeplaysTV not to great only lasted 544 miles before the rod went to space

@txicness434 not great 544 miles threw a rod

Yes

The engine

Have you checked lifters? May need to be readjusted.

Check the voltage of your battery and have your starter tested. This doesn’t sound like a rod bearing issue.

Possibly but the rod journal where the bearing spun will have started wearing. At this point the likelihood of a reoccurrence will be elevated until the crank is properly machined or replaced. Minor wear can be polished at home. But if you find the knock is back after only a few hundred miles, chances are it's impossible for you to do anything about it.

Did you ever figure it out? I have the exact same thing going on.

@@andrewhutson8299 yes and I don't like it. Spun bearing. Crazy how I had no other symptoms

It's worth a trying to replace rod bearing are not that expensive

Hello, try to check first your injectors, sometimes failed injectors cause that sound.

The knock sensosr are located underneath the Intake manifold. One on each bank.

It's early stages of knock. When the engine is warm the metal expands giving extra clearance, 2k rpm is generally a harmonic rpm range that you'll hear the knock at when warm. I had the same issue, sounded like it came from the head but it was just the piston ever so slightly tapping the head due to the piston clearance. I checked it by holding rpm at the knocking point and unplugging injectors 1 by 1 to check each cylinder. So unplug cyl 1 and if knock maintains. Plug it back in and do the same with cyl 2. And so on and so forth. The knock should go away when unplugged because the fuel igniting in that cylinder slams the piston back down creating the knock. No combustion=no added force. Only works with slight knocks. That's how I found out it was my bearing and not the head. I've replaced the bearing making sure to only use 1000 grit sandpaper soaked in wd40 when sanding down the crank as you only want to polish it not remove material. Only issue I have is because of the slight added tolerance my oil light flashes on start up because the more clearance in the bearings equates to less pressure as more oil escapes that rod bearing, taking pressure from the other rods momentarily until pressure fully builds

@@GVGR11B Nice. Might get around to that. At least for the sake of being informed. Thank. I threw in mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic 10w40 with a 3oz per qt motorkote and she purrs almost like new *sometimes even when hot idle where before she was knocking all the time. Great combo I highly suggest that for you. When the knock is there it sounds pretty bad but really sounds great while driving. Also running the ac seems to make the knock go away at times and quiet it down others but always helps.

@@TonicofSonic any sort of thicker oil additive like Lucas oil treatment of marvel mystery oil will help mitigate the sound. As for the AC, when the compressor kicks on it adds load to the engine, and the compressor isn't always on even with your AC engaged it runs in cycles. So that would account for why it sounds better sometimes vs others. When the ecu detects extra load it will adjust the air fuel ratio to either add fuel or remove some depending on the situation which will also effect the sound as decreased fuel will take load off the piston during combustion where increased fuel will add load, making the knock more pronounced.

@@TonicofSonic what type of vehicle is it? If it's something like a Honda civic, rod bearings can be changed by removing the exhaust(for clearance when removing oil pan), remove oil pan, remove oil sump and girdle and rods are right there. You can try to move the rods up and down and if there's any up and down movement then it's bearing. However when when I did mine that was having your exact issue, I felt not movement at all(since engine wasnt hot) But when I pulled the rod cap the bearing was super worn. I polished the crank and replaced all rod bearings and main bearings and been driving it ever since. I'm in the process of replacing bearings on a 99 civic turbo as we speak

@@GVGR11B Lucas did not help. I gave it several chances. The engine was quieter with straight Wal-Mart high mileage full synthetic 5w 30 than with lucas added. I used lucas high mileage version. Never tried the synthetic. Anyway no more lucas for me... 10w 40 HM full synthetic MOBIL 1 is better than a 5w 30 with Lucas. But..I might try full synthetic lucas with this mobil 1 just for kicks. Kinda planning on letting it go... engine has 200k and piston slap too. Used to burn oil. Rings are probably shot somewhere. Runs like a champ. Idles smooth as butter. Power is good. I dunno I hate the idea of putting money into this old engine. Might find time next summer to take off timing cover and oil pan for a refresh.

I can change a rod bearing, I can’t un-die when autopilot sends me into oncoming traffic and I burn to death while the battery explodes because the door handles are stuck