What Is A Spun Bearing? What Is A Spun Rod, Main, or Cam Bearing? What Causes A Spun Bearing? 

motor is the term used for electric motors. and engine for internal combustion engines.

in usa manily is engine, in UK is an old fashioning to call it motor, they are sinonims

technically anything that creates motion is a motor, its in the name, no matter what it uses as fuel, electricity, compressed air, diesel, gasoline, calling it a motor is as "politically correct" as calling it an engine and you can really only use the word engine carefully, cant call an electric motor an engine cause you would look like a dumbass. . .nobody has even been looked at funny for saying motor, at work we call everything a motor cause no matter what it runs on it does the same thing: spin

A motor is a machine that converts other forms of energy into mechanical energy and so imparts motion. An engine is a motor that converts thermal energy to mechanical work. wordnetweb.princeton.edu In other words, an engine is a motor, but a motor is not necessarily an engine.

excellent, so they are in genus-species relationship

+joe polen I would say you did a pretty good job there, as far as the numbers being close, they seem a little high for a truck with a 70,000 pound load. Most guys with Cat engines seem to get 4.5-6 mpg. Of course these are a little bit older engines in usually not the most aerodynamic trucks. I wish I would have taken a physics course in college now. It is practical engineering/science. There are guys that get double digit mileages out there called hypermilers. Not sure if you have heard of them, but by mostly becoming more aerodynamic and driving slower, they can see some real mileage gains. Not sure what other tricks they do. I liked your comment a lot though, would you mind if I used it as part of a video?

Hi Thanks for the reply. Yes you can use this in your video. I thought it was interesting to look into some of the main physical factors about fuel mileage in large trucks.

I'm impressed, I haven't thought about computational physics in a long time, and you got me there at 4am when I was doing research on how to fix my significant other's car lol. The only thing I could possibly add would be your missing out on wear on the engine by assuming the engine efficiency. If your pulling data for that online, those numbers are also probably for "lab like conditions" of the engine. Also it would be important that your numbers only represent the M/G at those specific times, and isn't an average over a period of time, which would be a little more accurate. Although even any average would be subject to the route taken, the user's driving habits, blah blah blah. I think for a lot of your average joes out there it can be easy to forget to think about where you numbers, and data come from, and how that could affect things.

But thank you +joe polen, I enjoyed the distraction, and appreciate anyone that has an interest and understanding of physics. From a former physics student at WKU, unfortunately I had to stop short of my bachelors, but I still love the field, and am resolute to finish that degree someday.

When everything is working as well as expected, what effects mileage on any vehicle is the resistance of air. At speeds under 48 mph the air resistance is fairly light and is a small factor. However the amount of energy for maintaining each mph above 48 mph goes up progressively. Back in the 1970's the speed limit was reduced to 55 mph for fuel conservation. So if you are in a situation where time is not the issue but range is 45/48 mph will give you the most range from a tank of fuel. You can expect about 10 more miles per gallon if you slow down to 45/48 mph from 70 mph in a passenger car. Slowing down to 55 mph from 70 will be about half that at around 5 more mpg. Just something to conciser when pressing on to the next exit for a fuel stop. My low fuel warning comes on when down to 2 gallons. Slowing down to 45/48 from 70 will get me 20 more miles to the next fuel stop or slowing to 55 will get me 10 more miles. Slowing down to say 40 or even slower will not get you any more significant range. By Law the lowest MINIMUM speed on the interstate system is 45 mph the state of Florida is 50 mph. The safety risks are high traveling on the interstate at 45 mph and should be considered. It is very significant to gain 160 more miles from one 16 gallon tank of fuel, at the cost of reducing speed by 25 mph. Increasing range from approximately 432 to 592 miles, 37% increase in range at a cost of 35.7% increase in time. The time used is 6 hour 10 min when travel speed is 70 mph to empty at 432 miles. Traveling at 48 mph to the same distance of 432 miles is 9 hours even with 4.3 gallons still in the tank (that is a 1/4+ tank) costing 2 hours 50 min. Going the maximum distance of 592 miles at 48 mph would take 12 hours 20 min, or 8 hours 27 min plus the fuel stop at 70 mph. Just from reducing speed from 70 mph you could increase your fuel economy by 37% at 45/48 mph, 30% at 50 mph, 25% at 55 mph, 19% at 60 mph, and 11% at 65 mph. These calculations are what I have achieved with my 2007 Mustang GT 4.6L approximately 27 mpg at 70 mph and 37 mpg at 45 mph. The Mustang is fairly aerodynamic and it still suffers from wind resistance. I have not driven a big rig loaded to 70,000 pounds to know if they could get better or worst than 37% increase in range by reducing speed. As a safety consideration the heavy loaded trailers will decrease the hazard of jack-knifing when traveling slower. The transportation company "Swift" has speed limiters governing their speed to save money on fuel and reduce accidents. Effective November 27th, 2017, Swift company trucks went from 60 mph on the pedal and 62 mph on cruise, to 63 on the pedal and 65 on cruise. Time is money, so even Swift has nudged it up a tad but still saving 10% or more that the other companies that run at 70 mph or faster.

Same with my Sonata, burned 5 quartz of oil in less than 2 months and then knocking came

@@AmelFLoridame today

I spun a bearing on a road trip almost 40 years ago and shot a piston out of the oil pan. Luckily my block didn't have damage. Ever since, I check oil once a week and when on road trips in the RV, I'm checking it daily.

aarunt1 😂😂 he do looks like post Malone

You qlqwe we ae

😂😂😂

Second cousin to both Malone and Donut Operator, lotta fame in that blood!

Oh man, thats unfortunate. I feel your pain. These are really quite reliable engines, if not screwed around with. I have a 94 Trans Am with the LT1 engine, I bought new . It has 338.000 miles on it now. Engine never been touched, even the timing chain is original. I've done 3000 mile oil changes since new, just used regular Castrol GTX in it. I cant understand what could cause your issues at such low mileage. Good luck.

I know someone that had the same issue. They caught it fast and replaced the bearing. It ran for another 20k until some idiot rear ended the car at a stop light. (Both cars were completely totaled)

+Mark Armstrong Thank you.

Thanks for video

It's a big enough job you don't usually do it as preventative maintenance, however, if you have to get into the bottom end anyhow (lets say replacing a piston/sleeve, you'd look at the condition it's in and maybe replace them all while you have the pan off

+Shain Andrews I've had to do the Emery cloth shuffle on a few crank journals, but usually just when they have a nick, not from a spun bearing. I'm sure that's been done more than once though.

+Shain Andrews I think your avatar is funny with the dog driving, 😀

Adept Ape do you have any vids to help replace rod bearings for a 99 Lexus GS 300?

Caleb Mcguckin you see what he is holding in his hands the whole vid? That’s what you have in your pan most likely, regardless your motor will be very sick soon, sorry

Don't use thick oil. It don't lubricate better regardless of what people say. Lesson learned.

im trying to do a 4.3 v6 vortex in a s10, any tips?

@@jordanbelknap61 do what to it?

@@deerhunter8533 im trying to do a full rebuild but any kind of advice would be great

4 years late, but thats fucked. 15000 miles for oil changes? Americans are absolutely clueless when it comes to maintenance lol 24000kms for an oil change? yikes. 10k kms at most for a change.

@@Nes924 - 15,000 miles for a 15-litre diesel. Only 5,000 miles for a gasoline car engine on synthetic oil. Most trucking companies today operate on a 20,000-30,000 mile oil change interval. Not to blow your mind but with oil centrifuges, heavy duty diesels can go 100,000 miles between oil changes. The centrifuges remove fine metal particles and soot which keeps oil cleaner longer. Semi-trucks can attain 100,000 miles every 10-12 months. With today's high tech fuel injectors running at 35,000 psi pressure, fuel is better atomized in the cylinder producing less exhaust gases and soot getting passed the piston rings which keeps engine oil cleaner than in older diesels. The huge reduction of sulfur in today's diesel fuel refinement also lends to cleaner engines.

@@kingjames8283 oh diesel! I thought you were originally talking about gasoline engines! Hahah my bad man! I almost had a heart attack. (Australian) so seeing over 20,000 kms for oil change I was like BROOOO ;( hahah. But I’ll take your word for semis, I have no experience with bigger diesels :)

Wow, and bmw is a strong brand, but I guess not like old quality anymore...

And Subaru EJs

@@tomasnokechtesledger1786 FA’s take the crown

Look in maintenance specs for said engine it will say when

🤣😂🤣

@bandr when I remove the oil pan I left two bolts in it poured diesel fuel in the top of the engine let it drain down and I only cleaned the bottom part of the engine and when I poured oil and then I used a quart and a half and let it drain down afterwards to clean and discarted, just by doing that you can see what debris you can out of the engine. so I clean the bottom part of the engine and clean the oil pan also I sanded down the aluminum oil pan and st the lowest part i JB welded a magnet on the inside and on the outside of the oil pan. So the magnet will pick up the rest of debris that I don't get and when I remove the oil pan to begin with there was a lot of little shreds of metal.

@Dustin Collins I had it for over 2 years at 248000 miles I figured it was time to get another one I sold it. Believe it or not I bought another 2008 with a 123000 miles. Still have it today Change my oil every 30000 miles with high mileage shell rotating Marvel mystery oil & Lucas every other time. 7 quarts. just kind of watching keep it full every month or 2.

+Malcolm Young You are a real man. Who needs fun when you have Diesel Engines.

actually the 2.7L Chrysler V6 has an issue where the water pump will leak antifreeze into the crank case so that's probably why my shit is in the shop right now, antifreeze breaks down oil so I have a few things to fix

Same happened with me, bought a toyota allion and the previous owner was a shithead never had an oil change

Repairing it is more costly than getting another slim engine

That’s why you don’t buy an FCA piece of shit.

Jamie Forrester did you swim back?

Zachary Jones if you don't stop running the engine yes it could.

What did you do?

Nice

So what did you find? You get it going again?

@@Rx7man I found that those flakes were the main journal bearings and it did not seem that bad but I was going to bring the crankshaft in the cylinder head to a machine shop and needed to replace all the bearings some seals for the crankshaft and a few other items. It was going to cost probably right over $1,000. But then I came across a brand new short block crate motor from Ford for $1,700. I kept the old one and paid the $500 core fee and plan on either rebuilding the old one for a spare dropping motor or to someone else for more than the $500. So the truck is running and at the moment I'm in the process of replacing axle, and pinion bearings while I wait for my complete suspension lift to be shipped from the manufacturer which because of Corona virus is taking away too long. Anyways thanks for asking it's been a pretty fun project.

@@brucebanner5860 I'm doing a diff in an old Dodge right now too.. in my case the spider gears blew up. Yep, the rona is really breaking the supply chain Good to hear an update, sounds like you got a decent truck for a good price (even though I love mocking fords)

@@Rx7man funny how the way you think of something can change with a slightly different perspective. I've made a few mods to this truck that make it better.

@@brucebanner5860 I waited 8 months for a head gasket... thankfully it wasn't something I needed, I just like having one in stock.. I'm remote, so keeping stock on basic essentials is a good idea

Rod journals

+Michael yaromich Well the rods get oil from the crank, so they can't block it off by moving, opposed to the mains which normally have oiling holes on the top of the bearing.

Replace oil pump & change crank shaft bearings

Interesting tip with the Cam bearings, Cat engines almost never have Cam bearing issues, at least on any of the 1990+ engines.

@@AdeptApe Guy I knew had really heavy valve springs in a performance 5.9 (Cam runs directly in the block on those except the front journal) and it wore the journals out.. for those applications they recommend putting bearings in all locations.. it was expensive learning. Otherwise, yeah, cam bearings are usually pretty durable, they don't get the loads the crank sees

cheap oil

Sounds like lifter?

Might have to do with trying to make a 4 cylinder do the work of a 6 cylinder.

Adam Cotter yes they can. Did you get it fixed?

The knock sensor has nothing to do with detecting, stopping, or shutting down rod knock. The knock sensor detects spark knock, not rod knock. Your ears are used to detect rod knock, and the two phenomenon are completely seperate and different things.

+hddm3 I wear nitrile gloves all day at work, keeps them oil free.

I use 99 store hand soap. The 2 liter size.

Machinist is right cold contrast heat expands

Have you checked the cooling system? If the engine is getting that hot it could be a cooling issue.

everyone that makes bearings will make them in a couple sizes, usually standard, -.010", and -.020" are the most common, more than .020" it's usually recommended to replace the crank since you've ground through the hard part of it by then

@@Rx7man first of all thank you for replying. I'm looking for an oversized bushing for a spun balancer shaft bearing bore. I got a couple of quotes from a bearing company but I'm unsure on which particular material to purchase. 932 alloy or 954 alloy. Would you happen to be familiar with any of these? Please reply. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

@@awesomeluis I have no clue on the details of that... One guy on RU-vid based in Kentucky has a serious machine shop capable of doing line boring, etc, look up "bcbloc02"..