Would be nice to have a simple table at the end of the video, summarizing the test results in terms of percentages. For example, the bearing material loss was 300% worse with standard than synthetic. Preferably, each test should be repeated, to make sure the results are not just "randomly" going in favor of synthetic. 🙂
At the end of the day whether your running synthetic or conventional oil always change your oil at the manufacturers recommended interval. It's cheaper to change oil than a engine because you went way over on a oil change. Don't be cheap, it will cost you much more in the long run.
yup. and even if synthetic oil offers extra protection, it gets just as contaminated in the same amount of time as conventional oil. huge misnomer is that you can run synthetic oil for way longer and not change it. not true.
My manufacture recommends 10,000 miles which to me is ridiculously far to many miles between oil change intervals. I change my oil every 5000 to 6000 miles with “full synthetic”. Ford recommends changing the transmission fluid every 100,000 miles. That’s absurd. I change it twice a year so basically every 10,000 miles. It’s 40 bucks and takes 10 minutes.
Viscosity (flow) should be the same for the same grade oil, regardless of conventional or synthetic. Synthetic should retain that viscosity and lubricity longer under operating conditions (heat and combustion) than conventional.
Valvoline full synthetic high mileage vs gastrol clean (white bottle). I've noticed one of those two disappears in my truck, and one doesnt. Truck has 6k on engine
I used synthetic for the first time recently. I checked the dipstick after 3,000 miles expecting to see a brown color like I would with worn conventional oil. Nope. The synthetic went from clear to pale yellow after 3,000 miles of driving. It looks kind of like a brand new conventional oil. Very impressed. When that oil gets brown and black it has very little viscosity, feels more like milk than oil. This is why I will never use conventional oil again, it just wears down too fast.
Oil color is due to many factors. The additive package in new oil gives you lighter and darker oil. The color after running it several thousand miles has more to do with your filter and the state of your engine not the oil initially added. Try using different filters and see how it goes.
The color of the oil doesn’t have much to do with its useful life.it’s most likely the detergents doing their job suspending by- products and contaminants.
@@a3300000 Anything over 20 microns depending on your filter specs would be trapped in the filter, not flowing around with the oil. If your engine is clean, the oil can stay clean. I had multiple cars doing 15k oil changes with Supertech full synthetic 10w30 where it still wasn't black.
I switched to Royal Purple on my '97 Chevy S10 pickup with 4.3L V6 a few years ago. My truck developed wicked lifter noise, and the engine leaked like a sieve (Full disclosure: My truck did leak oil with conventional, it got alot worse with Full Synthetic). Switched back to conventional and haven't had any problems since then.
Ive always used conventional, last time i checked my engine was when i had to change the head gaskets, the engine looked almost brand new on my 25 year old car. Im going to save my money and stick with conventional.
As long as you change it every 3k besides old vehicles were made for conventional.. I buy synthetic for my 50,000$ 2016 6.8 L V10 Triton superduty Ford van because its expensive.
For my GM vehicles, I’ve found they like a synthetic blend the best. I run Kendall gt-1. I used full synthetic in my GM 6.0 and it used oil like crazy. Same with my supercharged 3.8. 2-3 qts between oil changes. Synthetic blend, uses maybe 1/2 a qt between oil changes.
Thats the physical test. Then your wife finds out you're spending 200% more money for small fraction of science test. Just do a more frequent oil change. What if that were food, someone says, for a little less spice and cheese, but you get an extra plate serving, where do you expect other people go?
@@sanBastian123 Now a days synthetic oil is not very expensive, if you change your oil every 7,500 miles instead of 3,000 miles the cost difference is not too much and it can be cheaper if you don't do your own oil change and you don't pollute as much. 7,500 OCI is safe using a good synthetic oil with a good oil filter.
I have a 2004 grand prix with almost 500,000 km on it. Always used conventional oil and did oil changes every 5000km. Car is17 years old.This is the last winter for the car as it's rotten underneath, scraping in spring. If I would of used synthetic oil I'd still be scraping the car this spring. Conventional oil is just fine as my engine keeps going and still can spin the tires. Do my own oil changes with filter for $25..... synthetic would cost me close to $50. Synthetic not worth it unless your going to keep the car forever. From Canada 🇨🇦
@@DoubleoP If you would have used synthetic your OCI could have been 10,000 kms or even 12,000 kms with great results, at the end of the day synthetic could be cheaper.
Thanks for the comparison video, good information. The Group llls synthetic handles the heat better than the Group ls Conventional, expecialy if your running hot like a Trubo Charger. At just over $l quart differeance there is no reason not to go Synthetic.
@@x_HarleyQ_x Test´s have show that the Synthetic oils do no harm, in fact in some cases it help to stop leakage. Depends on how far that gaskets have deteriated.
People think conventional is "outdated" and switch from the recommended to full synthetic. Modern engines use different metals older engines that recommend convention do so because those engines relied on zinc content. If you switch make sure you use a zinc additive all I'm saying or expect premature engine failure
Now try the same test with a 100% synthetic oil,I can only think of two both marked as 100% synthetic,these are Amsoil and Motul.Oils marked as full synthetic are not,the are made using a mineral base oil with synthetic additives.People out there should know what they are buying.
My 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited 5.2 V8 is still going strong for 28 years without engine or transmission overhaul. Right now it is over 423,000 miles. Several years ago, I've used conventional oil then blue smoke came out from tail pipe as I didn't like so, I switched 5W-30 Mobil One Synthetic oil (no high mileage or no extended). I changing oil every 6 months Spring and Fall since retired is fewer driving or change at 5,000 miles but not beyond 7,000 or 8,000 miles plus, added engine restoration solution with Royal Purple oil filter for years (changing max 10,000 miles). Additional, I've reduced engine thermostat to 15 degrees (180 instead of 195 degrees) to prolong engine life without any problem or always passed smog check. Also, I've used mostly Chevron 87 octane gas of trying not get a cheap gas brand too.
@@gavnonadoroge3092 Yes and that is corrected to prolong engine life because 195 degrees too hot cause engine problems or wear out quickly as I know it since I've been working on cars for over 60 years (I'm 67) plus, my Dad and my father in law and my Dad's best friend were mechanic too (all of them were passed was years ago). Right now my Jeep is over 426,000 miles.
@@gavnonadoroge3092 Any Auto Parts Retailer and give them year, make, model and ask them thermostat degrees and be sure thermostat has a tiny pin hole too (you can search auto thermostat in RU-vid channel of why a pin hole). Mine is asked of the degrees at part clerk and told me have 165 or 180 or 195 so, I choosen 180 degrees instead of 195. Also, sometime interior heating will be less warm. Are you handiwork or DIY mechanics and you be watching lots in RU-vid channels or Google search too.
Good information. I wish it went further. * outcome of going from 0W-20 to 0W-40? Good or bad? * is changing oil once a year enough? Under 5000k miles per year. * many cold starts, low mileage yearly less than 3k, is oil change once a year enough?
I get change at Valvoline 5w30 conventional and it burns a quart every 2k so I add full syn as it burns. Usually go around 10k between oil change and car has 296k miles. Good test video... thank you
So it looks like I'm sticking to conventional because it looks just as good, since I change it before I'm supposed to instead of thinking I can wait too long , I'm good , thank you .
I’ve swore by conventional oil for my cars and I have a 2008 fusion currently at 217k not missing a beat. Most “conventional” oils are synthetic blend so unless you space out your oil changes more than you should. It won’t really make a difference. Change it every 4000 miles if it’s conventional/synthetic blend and if it’s full synthetic every 5000-7500 miles
There is much more to consider then just a cold pour test when it comes to oil. Secondly your tests are just gravity cars have a oil pump that forces the oil through the engine. Almost any oil today will work just fine providing your using the correct grade.
Ride a single cylinder 153cc Honda and have been using the most expensive 100% synthetic oil, and changing it every 200KM ... MUCH more often than Honda recommends. Though this test confirmed what I had already believed (synthetic is better), I do wonder this: BETTER to use conventional oil and change it every 100KM --- OR-- Stay with 100% synthetic at 2000KM change intervals. Starting to suspect that changing it MORE frequently with mineral is probably the way to go.
If you say it is highly recommended to change an oil at 3000 miles and you run it 10K miles enough times you are going to be in trouble, that would be enough to choose the oil it's manufacturer says is good for 25K. I would only run an oil for even 10 K on a vacation with lots of highway driving (a short duration of constant speed driving), and I generally change my oil at 5K or once a year. I don't want to hear we do not guarantee your engine being fine with that maintenance practice, I have seem Mobile 1 engines worked on and they note the golden metal color and little wear as exceptional.
If you DIY, there is no reason to not use full syn. The time spent doing it and the longer OCI completely justify the use of full syn, even in warm climate. These days the price difference in oil is only about 30%. Use Supertech or Costco full syn. If you have a shop do it for you, then the choice is not as obvious. This is because low price oil change is always conventional. A shop will gouge you for full syn oil change. This is because they know you care enough to use full syn and is not as price sensitive.
I don’t think that’s the only reason why synthetic is more recommended. Maybe for older vehicles, conventional might be better for the engine. I mean yes, viscosity is important, but, there’s much more going on than meets the eye, the naked eye. The buck naked eye, that is.
If you drive a lot and far, synthetic is the way to go, if you don't drive too far, and make frequent stops, Conventional. Synthetic oil works great with hot metal, but with metal that is cold, it crust the surface and can cause potential issue.
For any given viscosity grade (where KV100 & CCS are identical), synthetics are not necessarily better lubricants (for 'normal', day-to-day service conditions) compared to minerals, they just last a lot longer.
@@robertogomez8100 Not necessarily. PAO base oils are horribly 'ungreen' because of the multiple processing steps they need to go through. Far better to use hydro cracked Group II/III stocks derived from crude.
i read that 5w-20 conventional oil is actually good stable oil because there is only 15 points difference between the cold and hot running temps . less additive needed for that multigrade functionality .
My old Ram (2001) 2500 5.9 Gas V8, has been using Walmart 10w-30 high milage full synthetic oil for the last two oil services (5k each w/Mobil 1 oil filter). The oil consumption dropped significantly from 1200 miles per quart to 1700 miles per quart over the 10k test. Overall fuel economy improved by .3 mile over the same period. No oil leakage noted before or after the test. A great value for a synthetic oil; only the Costco and Amazon basics synthetic oils are less expensive. Will continue to this oil in my truck.
The longer the oil is in an engine, the greater the difference between the natural and synthetic oil will become. Although even the synthetic will eventually become contaminated with dirty products of combustion, so it still needs to be changed regularly. And always us the recommended weight oil.
One of the most valuable things my dad ever taught me growing up is how to do all my own maintenance on any car I owned. I recently came across a 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor XLS with 133k miles for a price I couldn't refuse. I have no record of any repairs, service records or maintenance that's been done, but I always replace all the fluids, belts and houses immediately anyway. My question is, which type of oil (semi-synthic, full synth, or conventional) would be best to use when I do an oil change with these conditions in mind; it's a 2004 EFI motor, it got just over 133k miles on it, I live in a south central Arizona where the average outdoor temp stays over 105° (with highs commonly reaching +115°) 6 months outta the year, and it will only be driven less than 10 miles a week and be stationary most of the time. I've never owned a car that was idle 95% of the time, and I don't know what the most appropriate type of oil would be best considering it will sit idle in extremely high ambient temps for 5-7 months a year... Any suggestions or insights would be much appreciated. Thank you!
Nate!!! Please give me your advice! I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4.3l. at 138000 miles! I go back and forth from work 1.2 miles each way and lunches (20 trips a week) plus 2 10 mile trips and a 20 miler at 65 mph a week! That's it ! Daily driving and less than 300 miles a month! I use full synthetic oil and change it every 6 months that's 1500 to 1800 miles! Your thoughts please!
full synthetic makes my 2006 suburban smoke on startup. Went to the synthetic blend which i was told is conventional with synthetic additives. Dose not smoke on start up with Syn blend. I did some research and it is true the Full Syn is better BUT in older cars and trucks it could cause some issues especially if the older car was ran on conventional and then u switched to Synthetic. In that case best to just stick with the Synthetic Blend or conventional to be safe. I change my oil every other month and use Napa Plat or Gold oil filters. Dont use fram. It has bad flow the holes are too few and small for the oil to flow thru and I had a few cars acquire engine ticks because of the bad flow from Fram oil filters. Napa, WIx, Moble One, K&N are good filters.
Also I don’t think people realize with full synthetic oils they have additives and detergent that actually clean the gunk from an engine so one that is dirty needs to be changed a bit more frequently when first putting in a synthetic to help remove all the stuff the detergent is removing from the years of buildup
You just can't beat conventional Walmart brand for the money. Please test it against Pennzoil and Quaker State conventional. Thanks so much for doing the test I enjoyed it very much.
No one wants to do conventional oil test. They scared. 😀 I've always used Havoline oil conventional never had a engine problem. I think it really depending on how you drive. You drive like a dumny and abuse your car conventional may not be best for you.
That's all fine and stuff But synthetic will never go in my classic cars and trucks, Why? Because they were not designed for it! They were designed with Conventional in mind!
Dear friends. 20w40 or 15w40 is also called NORMAL ENGINE OIL, IT COSTS VERY LOW for 3litre or 3.5litre, This oil will be very thick. Good for Tropical regions condition, Where as, the 0w30 and 5w30 both are (FULLY SYNTHETIC). Reason people use in new gen Diesel engine and Petrol engine is that, at the time of starting a car, the synthetic Engine Oil as it is very much close to free flowing, the oil quickly gets into the piston areas and then make the Engine start without much hassle or noice coming. Ina way synthetic Engine Oil is also used for high performance cars, the reason is as I said, to get the Oil Quickly To Pistons.
Not sure what to think. These results point to using Synth in everything, all the time. But is this the case? My jeep zj 5.2 hated cheap oil. Ticking. Overheating. Breakdown @ temp. Needed oil stabilizer or better oil. My mustang(s) two 3.8's & three 4.6's had no issue with cheap conventional. My 89 350 Chev, or my 94 Pontiac had no issues with conven. These vehicles were driven for years with 3,000 mile oil changes with absolutely no degradation of performance. I will never run any oil past 3,000 or half a year ever, period. Just acquired a k24 Honda 191,000 miles & I am searching for the best oil for it.... It's a little noisy (for a sec) on startup after sitting. Using Seafoam high mileage in the crankcase (according to instructions) & will be changing the oil in a couple hundred miles. I'm thinking full synth.
Interesting observation. And still, Honda recommends using regular 10W-30 on all new Goldwings. Just simple oil for bikes. That is what I use....period. Riders run and buy all those space shuttle oils for no reason. You go by the book and you are just fine even with the simple stuff..
Honda recommends an oil spec and weight, but they do not recommend a TYPE. As long as the correct spec and weight are used, type doesn't matter. I choose to run full synthetic because it stand up to heat better, and it hold its viscosity longer than conventionals or a blend...
@@jamesbottger5894 Correct !!! Honda calls for 10-30W regular bike oil. I stay with that. I buy Honda oil cause the price is almost the same as Joe's oil. Honda designed the new DCT Goldwing with regular oil. I do believe and respect the engineers. Go and put what ever makes you so happy sleeping at night LOL. Happy riding...!!!
@@tjlee9901 100% !!!! I did not say regular car oil !!! The service manual on all new generation Goldwing strongly recommends 10-30w standard motorcycle oil. When I called HQ to ask, clearly was told, we do not recommend any other oil types. More then welcome to use 10-30 from other manufacturing. So, must be a reason for that. After 30 years of riding and many many miles on so many bikes, always by the book. Never had any issues or major problems.
Lucky you. Mobile 1 saved a co-workers BMW when he got water with his gas, Supertech full synthetics saved my 95 Grandprix main bearings when it dumped 2 gallons of coolant in the oil pan and I still drove it a week not knowing where the coolant was going.
The test you performed won’t see much difference because they are required to meet specific specs on viscosity and operating temp. Both will do the job just fine. The difference is longevity/durability, synthetic oil will offer the same protection longer while conventional will start breaking down sooner. If you change you oil often say every 3-5k miles max, conventional likely will be fine. If you are lazy, don’t like changing oil often, synthetic may last longer say10k miles or more.
sounds to me like it might be better to use conventional if you change it more often , like 3-5k intervals , instead of using syn and leaving it in for 10 k miles . kinda makes sense to flush your engine with cheaper oil once in awhile , even if you have to use synthetic .
Very nice video! Is it possible to compare 4-5 big brands for moto oil 5w-40(eni, motul, castrol and two usa companies)? In Europe this grade is very popular and it is also used in a lot of smaller bikes(scooters etc). A lot of motorists are searching for video like this. Thank you!
I worked at an oil bottling facility. The high mileage and the conventional oil came from the same bulk tank. The high mileage oil stabilizer and the conventional oil stabilizer had it's own tank, but was the same stabilizer. Oils said to be for motorcycles was the same as oils for cars. Don't pay extra just because the label says high mileage or for use in motorcycles.
Can you do the same test at colder temperatures? I use synthetic oil mostly because of our cold weather. -40c is a good test temperature. It gets colder but not often.
Trust the specifications of your products. For example, 10W-30 conventional is supposed to be good for down to -0 F. All synthetics are supposed to flow down to at least -20. 0w-20 synthetic is supposed to flow at -40. Depends on how cold it gets where you live, what products are required for your vehicle and what options there are if any.
Yeah this is all good and stuff. But let me tell you something how many people you know with full synthetic oil that have a car over 350,000 to 500,000 miles? I'm 50 years old and I've seen Toyota's hit a half a million miles on conventional motor oil. I've had nothing but conventional motor oil in my cars. I've had 2 Toyota Corollas that went over 330,000 miles on with conventional motor oil changing the oil every 5000 miles. And you can eat off of the top of the engine of my '06 it's so clean. I got a friend I'm working with that has 420,000 miles on a Toyota Tacoma with conventional motor oil. Growing up I had a friend that his dad put over 400,000 miles on his 1985 Toyota Corolla. I had a 1997 Civic that went over 350,000 miles with conventional motor oil and I sold it sounding like the engine was built the day before when I sold it. You might get a few more miles out of synthetic oils but it's not going to be much more. Who's going to keep their car over 400,000 miles anyway because the rest of the car breaks down.
Nate, the base oil this synthetic is called hydro cracked Group 3. It just the same as conventional oil with just another extra refinement step. Most likely these are not a true synthetic...as PAO'S and Polyol esters are...heck even the Pennzoil platinum from natural gas will do better...Amsoil and Redline are better if for no other reason than they both use a large percentage of POE base stocks...which has the highest film strength of any base oil and the highest temperature resistance...it is also the best at being naturally detergent without any additives for detergency... I had 420 I on my last honda and it was like new inside..petroleum will not do that...
With riding lawnmowers being so expensive anymore how about doing a test on riding lawnmower motor oil I’m interested in the Kohler 10 W 30 versus other lawnmower oil
OK, here's my situation. I bought a 1989 Dodge B350 van last month. It has 50,000 miles, title says actual miles so anyone's guess. Rural King has full Synthetic for 2.99, and regular for 1.99 per quart. They do not have the Synthetic in 10w40, only in 10w30. But they do have regular oil in 10w40. So my choices is to change the oil with regular 10w40,, or to change it with 10w30 Synthetic and pay 6 dollars more. You decide ! What am I changing my oil with?
@Donnie Bays Hahaha. I put full synthetics in everything, 74 Chev 350 pu, 81 Dodge Mirada, 85 turbo Dodge 600, 87 turbo Charger, 89 turbo daytona, 94 Accord, 94 camry, and my current 2017 RDX and 2016 Tucson. Never a problem. All except the Tucson were over 50k.
Any modern full synthetic oil offers more than enough protection...Stuff like Amsoil is overkill unless you are going to setup a bypass and run it 15k miles but I wouldn't do it... Especially in a DI engine Because the fuel dilution would be really bad by 7500 miles most likely...I use castrol Syntec 0w40 euro formula and I get it for like 23$ a jug...77k miles on an engine pushing almost double the stock hp with no issues...so far
Yea brand does not matter. I bet you most of those oil are the exact same oil poured into different bottles in the same factories. As long as it’s the right numbers and you change it regularly, you will never ever ever notice any difference if you were to use let’s say super tech vs moble 1
It’s because “Full Synethic” isn’t actually full synthetic and I hope people know this…. It could be 25% to 75%. Literally as low as 25% synthetic is law to put that label on a bottle. 100% synthetic is a different story, but only few companies make it. Amsoil is my oil always.
Conventional oil was not that bad considering what i use lol. What conventional is the best out of all the name brands what i like to know. I use Havoline conventional mostly.
The anti-wear package and detergent package added to each oil. For the few dollars difference anyone not using full synthetic doesn't value their car. Price difference is a meal at a fast food joint...Not to mention if your engine is clean you can easily do 8000 miles on full synthetic with a quality filter, but not conventional. Do a test of the same brand oil in a 5w20 vs 10w30, heat them up, and bearing test. We already know the 5w20 would win cold pour.
My 07 Corolla has 206,000 miles using supertech conventional. Uses no oil between 5000 mile ( sometimes longer) changes. And, I value this car because I depend on it to get to work. Of course synthetic is better but most people will never keep a car long enough to reap its benefits.
@@basshnter1997 So you can't spend what, $2 more for full synthetic? Unmentioned benefits are if you blow an intake manifold gasket and dump 2 gals of coolant into the oil you won't ruin your motor. I know, it happened to me and it didn't ruin the motor. Another guy I know who was using Mobile 1 got a lot of water in his gas at a fill up, it ended up with the oil and full synthetics saved his motor. If you depend on that car so much, $2 for that ST full synthetic won't be missed.
@@lonniebeal6032 This car had over 100k on it using conventional oil since new when I got it. I didn't want to switch it to synthetic for fear that it may start using oil. I think it was the right choice. Another 110k miles later and it still uses no oil between changes. I do use synthetic in my other three vehicles since new.
@@basshnter1997 You also must be mostly hwy miles. At that mileage the risk is probably not worth the reward, But I will only use full synthetic in everything...
@@lonniebeal6032 The first 100k was mostly short trips in town and lucky to ever get an oil change. It would have really benefited from synthetic then. You could see the sludge buildup on the oil filler cap. The last 100k has been mostly highway and 5k oil changes. I tease the previous owner about not getting the oil changed regularly. I married her.
Can't make any recommendations for the 10W-30 shootout test since none of my vehicles can according to the owners manuals use that weight of oil. My Jeep Hemi only allows the use of 5W-20 as does my Hyundai Elantra. Come to think of it, don't almost all vehicles today use either 0W20 or 5W20 to improve fuel economy?
Yes, and there is another issue. Even if older interations of the same engine use a different weight oil, different materials may have been used in the bearings, camshaft or piston rings even if all of the specifications and clearances seem the same. If have seen cases where in the fine print it says that you can use 5W-20 conventional even though the recommendation is 0W-20. But I've never owned one of these. My standard oil change interval with dino oil is 2500 miles. I drive all in-town and short trips and that's what I do with my car. No has ever damaged an engine because they changed the oil too soon, if the correct products were used and the filter was installed correctly.
do this test with high zinc conventional oil like VR1 vers 100% synthetic and in real life application the two parts would never touch so the idea is what is the wet lubricity compared to one or the other
