I can't believe what is inside Mobil1 oil filters 

I'm still driving the Ford pickup by drove in here 47 years ago and now I can't buy conventional oil for it anymore!!!#!!!!

LMAO!

"You know what ford stands for, don't ya? It stands for Fix It Again Tony"

@@DAKODA65 and on top of all that it was made in America!

lol, I spit out my coffee. nice one.

Same here. I change it every 3000 even though it protects for 20,000

Fram ultra-synthetic is the best.

Same , Mobile One always for my Chevys

I really don't think it makes much difference which filter you use as long as you change your oil and filter regularly. I honestly don't know of anyone that has had engine failure from a bad oil filter.

@@noneyabusiness1161 I know of three engines that have been destroyed in the last three years due to fram filter failure

lololol

All apart of living in a decent area

I agree!!!

I had never even seen one of those filter finder computers until this video! Really something neat.

Low minority area

Don't forget the safety wire plyers, I used them to fellow aviator lol

What modern cars oil filter mates directly on to a surface of the engine

I've also never in my life seen an oil filter gasket stick.

@@bonehead8407 literally every one unless the vehicle has an oil filter relocation kit (aftermarket or factory), which the relocation kit mounts to the block in the same place the oil filter would go. It also has the same rubber seal ring that the oil filters have. The only exception are the drop-in style cartridge filters as they have no metal body nor threading, and are also a garbage design as the filter isn't contained at all and if anything happens it will distribute filter material through your engine.

@@wesd3370 I've seen in multiple times

Happened to me ... oooh lots of oil when crank my engine 😂 .... then I learned .. then again there was no youtube 30 years ago

I worked in engine rebuild shop for US Army, diesel and multi fuel, we used WIX.

​@@FeWolf military uses cheapest not best.

@@ips7125 we used WIX and fram

@@ips7125 WIX is really good tho

I got a 2000 7.3 powerstroke that has 800,000 miles on it. I've always used best oil on my baby and treated her well. And never used nothing but fram oil filter.

Yes a problem that you know about. But the long term for a car is different.

Yeah you could almost get any car or truck to run forever if you keep up on routine maintenance with minor fixes depending on the brand

I like to a oil primer.. It flows the oil before you start.. Help alot get oil back up in the bearing surface.

Filter is a filter, Most filter companies will warrant engine failure if proven to be caused by there product 🤣 good luck with that.. I think you will see more paper inserts instead of spin on's as more environmental friendly.

@@ethanpresley9423 that's not true for cars made after 2012 . The quality is way lower than it used to be on most brands . That applies to engines and c.v.t. transmissions.

AMSOIL users do it all the time...

I used to work at a dealership and saw one that gout a oil change once a year and she had around 20000 km 12500 miles, it was a cartridge filter and we had to pick chunks out and that was a common thing some people just don't care (also still had the ac delco filter and the paint for the drain plug)

20k in between intervals?--= foolishness

I change my oil every year!!!! I only drive my car about 100 - 120 miles per year!!!!

@@TheNuklearbandit I've gone 12500 on amsoil lab tests say still perfect

Thanks your comment was valuable to me; one can't always rely on RU-vidrs even though they mean well so I'll use mobile 1 on my Chevy Express 1500 V6 4.3 engine thanks experience is always key 🗝️

Ah man, I love a good Stagea, it's the best of both worlds, essentially a GTR and wagon combination

I have always used the cheapest oil and filters, changing both about every 7000 to 10,000 miles. I drive my cars until they rust out. I am in the NE where temps run from -20 to 90 degrees F. Have owned cars since 1972. 200,000+ miles on all of them. Never once had an engine issue. Hondas and Toyotas.

Shouldn't torture the Stagea in the harsh Canadian winter.

OEM is the same.

I’ve changed a shitload of Mitsubishi lash adjusters back in the 90’s because of aftermarket filters. None from those who used a factory filter. Pay the extra few bucks and get a proper factory filter.

@@blackhawk7r221 On that note, it's worth looking up who made the OEM filter. It's usually not the vehicle manufacturer.

Lets also not forget the allmighty AmsOil filter! does the premium price mean a premium product?

OE don't manufacture filters spark plugs or most electrical components

Change the oil. No damn problem. Toyota is indestructible anyway.

I just switched to Kirkland oil. I'm sick of paying for the mobil 1 name. I use a quality filter and change it on time. No issues!!

What about the car?

@@andrewcox7179 We bumped to 10.50 a quart. It's really pissing off the guys with those 5.0 Ford f150s.

I’ve owned 2 Yaris’s 300,00 you could run vegetable oil in them and they would forever. Best economy hands down

What does oil have to do with a car starting?🙃

@@NiNjaTurtLe697 At -20F regular 30 weight oil is like peanut butter. It doesn’t flow and impedes the starter motor from turning over the engine. Mobil 1 oil still flows at -20F.

@@anthonykeller5120 You should be using a multi weight oil in super cold climates (such as a 0-30w or 5-30w), even on older cars. Straight 30w in really cold climates causes severe engine wear on startup as it wont flow well until the engine heats up.

Over the weekend I saw that Mobile 1 oil would give a discount if yo bought a filter with the oil. When I got to the register, they charged me full price, when I asked why they said that Mobile 1 filters are not eligible to get a discount with Mobile 1 oil.

@@NiNjaTurtLe697 It doesn't have anything to do with oil. Only if you use cheap non synthetic oil. It get like corn syrup when it's cold. Where I live -20 is normal winter temperature and I never had any trouble to start my cars.

The key is doing it often. In the end of the day even the worst filter meets oems specs.

Mobil has gone down hill. I been using penzoil and lifter tick went away that I had with mobil 1

Mobil burns now. I switched over to Eneos. Crazy different results. Looks like the day I bought it

@@PaleoVirus what does oil or filter have to do with what your car looks like,not being caddy I'm just wondering what you mean by that

@@ryanwills9757 I was referring to my oil performance. It drains clear instead of black.

@@PaleoVirus if your oil drains clear you aren’t driving your car.

Yep I was waiting on a cut apart of the paper What I seen in other videos was frame wasn’t half as much as the others once unfolded

i miss the good old Champ Labs filters, never an issue with them. Did Champ make the Ford factory FoMOCo filters installed on new engines? - Sandy

@@sandyshoremann7524 Champ Lab lost Ford contract year's ago. At one time we had a spin-on oil filter assembly line that's all they made was FL-1A . It was a tall filter and we made a short filter 300 I thank. Ford at one time was Champs berad and butter.

@@chrismurphy5204 Thanks Chris. My 2011 ford ranger filter was white painted FoMoCo factory filter was Not a Motorcraft or Pur-O-Lator, I looked like a champ but it could have been Baldwin O.E. But it sure look like Champion Labs. Now I hear Champ and Fram are split up again. Those Vegas wedding don't last!

@@sandyshoremann7524 your right about Champ and Fram breaking up. That happened a few years back. But now there back together. Some guy bought Champ and Fram. I think the guy who bought them has a company named Tricon. They make wiper blades and other automotive parts. So what's funny is Champ will make Fram and Fram will make Champs filters. It depends on who is behind on there orders. Lol.

With your background, what make of oil filter do YOU use and recommend to the average Backyard Mechanic so they can get the best coverage and engine longevity? I've never heard of the Champ brand you mentioned.

I did once, using amsoil signature oil and filter. Sent a oil sample to Blackstone and the report said oil look the same as oil wich had only 5k 2010 rx450h 55k miles then 165k miles now, no issues. Went back to mobile 1 just because easy to find.

20k on oil, i would'nt do. 20k on a good overbuilt filter like the Fram Ultra i do since day 1 on my Civic Si.. 271k miles later it still runs like a charm.

@@semiauto3148 i meant an overbuilt filter like the Fram Ultra. I cut open mine once in a while after 2 OCI and they always look good. No collapsed media because of the steel wire mesh that keeps the pleats nice and that bypass valve always looks fine. When you have them at a discount price, they are a great filter.

@@marc-oliviercabot3380 oh ok. I couldn’t make that word out. Sorry. I don’t use fram. I own a G M truck. So I use their brand filters

i was in europe in 2011 i rented a toyota diesel yaris and down there they change oil after about 25000 kil.i checked oil before start up man that oil was black. i panicked guy tells me you north americans change oil to often.

Keep in mind, that the 40 PSI is the difference across the oil pump. The filter should never ever drop that much pressure.

I bought a cheap Fram oil filter and it's going to last forever. I will never have to change it and my motor will be unaffected. I'm using it as a paperweight on the dashboard of my electric vehicle.

@@Tron-Jockey you will have to spend $15 to $20 thousand on a replacement battery in 6-8 years, though... Not a deal breaker, but something to keep in mind.

@@gizmoguyar more like 3-4 years when battery pack becomes an issue!

@@Tron-Jockey you’ll have 1000lbs of lithium paperweight soon enough

I have used Fram filters for 35 years on motorcycles, to 4 cylinders to v8s. Not once have I ever had an issue. This is putting well over 500K miles in total in cars. I put 350K miles on a Toyota corolla, Not once did I have an issue. Engine never leaked a drop of oil either. But it did use it when I sold the car, the rings were pretty used up. This video means nothing until he has multiple failures that cause engines to lock up.

Wouldnt more smaller holes be worse for heavier oils or gunk buildup tho? I would assume many smaller ones prolly better for thinner oils.. but thick or cold may hold surface tension and not flow as well. I use the K&N for the ease of change... but also like wix and mobil1 I stopped using fram when i was young and heard about the orange can of death lol. I was told wix was the way to go.. figured K&N was a contracted build from another filter manufacturer.. but that bolt on the bottom is sooo handy with my motors because the engine literally covers half the filter you cant even get a finger on it on the side facing the motor lol... and you also have to go in at an angle with your arm because the shroud is in the way as well as the refridgerant lines lol sooo pack in there the ratchet is the best way oil clamp adapters can only turn like a few inches before the handles hits something no matter what way put it on.

@@learn2farm509 if there is gunk clogging the holes you have bigger issues than not making the holes big enough.

@@lukewinteregg2486 Nice reply!

@@learn2farm509 the band type filter wrenches can be tightened by pushing them in the clockwise direction to take to any slack, so side obstructions shouldn't be a problem as long as you can get them on in the first place.

The hole in the bottom on the K&N filter is there so you can safty wire it. This prevents the filter from spinning off. It may move enough to leak, but not enough to dump all your oil in a minute, thus destroying you engine.

They can also bypass in cold temps when oil is thick causing too much resistance for the oil to pass through the filter media.

...for the last 30 years you have not put anything but fully synthetic oil to a Toyota engine on cars...no problems when you change it on time...

Most wide open throttle events also bypass the filter

What most dont realize is during the restriction of flow through the cartridge the cartridge media moves up and down inside the case and that opens and closes the bypass and when the filter canister bypasses the oil isnt being filtered at all so everything bad being picked up by the pump goes directly into the oil passages and through the bearings...

@@scorpioassmodeusgtx1811 Whether the oil is synthetic or not is of no concern about cold oil. That's all covered under the API specs. A 10W synthetic has the same viscosity and a non-synthetic 10W

I switched to mobil1 10-40 from rotella 10-30 for my drag bike. Broke a connecting rod as soon as i switched

@@jimholesaw6597 I doubt the oil had anything to do w a broken rod. Hence the word DRAG in that sentence. Race car or care bikes break all the time. Its the nature of the beast. I'm thinking it was just a coincidence sir. Ive use mobil 1 in all our cars ( even the race car) filter and oil and nothing bad here.

My filter exploded after watching this video

I have seen presentations critical of the Mobil 1 filters. They cut them open and show a dirty, black build up of muck. This implies poor oil changing habits and possibly filters not being replaced with each oil change. Internally, before use, they are built well. The Mobil 1 filter is fine. Some of the others look poorly constructed internally. Why would Mobil oil company build a crummy, cheap oil filter? For what reason?

@@jimholesaw6597 And you blame that on the oil how??

Why don't you also use the Mobil 1 oil ?

I'll only use valvoline if Mobil 1 ran out at the stores

Pennzoil ultra platinum

Yeah when I take my Honda 2012 Accord off traction control so I can get off the ground and take a good ol’ flight above the Pacific Ocean , these k&n filters never came loose. I’ve had issues with the rest. Almost got taken out by a shark when I lost oil pressure with that orange can of death oil filter. Never again.

@@rockbottomliving bruh 😂😂😂😂😂

@@rockbottomliving 😂 You definitely should be using a different filter.

As I understand it’s high rpm and vibration like from solid motor mounts that will spin a filter off

@@orbitaljellyfish808 I didn’t think they used filters on race cars.😎

I keep a roll of stainless steel safety wire in my toolbox, strong and has a multitude of uses. Last I bought was at Harbor Freight.

@@jeffreydevoti7000 oh my God NO!! Not Harbor Freight safety wire!!! You're going to die!!! It HAS to be SNAP-ON safety wire or it's no good. 🤣

@@jimjones8428 actually American made name brand. The first safety wire I bought was from J.C. Whitney about 30 years ago. They need to bring back printed catalog. 😕

Just get your safety wire from aircraft spruce it is cheaper and held to higher aviation standards

Lockwire.... We used them allot in the navy...

I was totally confused.

@@jeffd8597 Me too

idk man im using k&n filters here in the uk without any issues, you can get them pretty easy now

I like Wix & Mahle. Little harder to get in the USA, but they're worth it.

@@AftermathXJ220 wix and fleetguard were the same when i checked about 4 years ago couldnt find a wix for my Cummins but fleetguard is who made the mopar filter that came on it. So wix ,fleetguard and mopar all the same for a 5.9 Cummins

opie oils. always used k&n

nah, trickflow fuel filters work the best!

@@user-it4dq9dj9q Maglight and freezeplugs anyone? I enjoy mine...

Imma try all these ideas when I move to Wyoming.

Don't forget the potato!

Check out the new video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qf2tGF63Gz8.html

Being manufactured by the same company is meaningless, the filter media spec is different for different filters, I can almost guarantee you the super tech is using lower efficiency, lower glass fiber content media that has a lower holding capacity. But there's so much misinformation going on here, filters can't easily be reviewed by eye balls, they have a test for filters the Iso 4548-12 test, that's what matters and the Fram Ultra is top of the charts on efficiency and holding capacity, so far above the rest of the field usually because they are using two layers of full microglass media. Fram ultras typically exceed 99.5% efficiency at 20 microns and 94% at 10 microns.

A lot of times things are made in the same factory from the same parts, because it costs more to have different internal parts. Super Tech is walmart brand so they aren't paying for any advertising. Generally they are the best for for the money. I worked at an appliance manufacturer. Marketing wanted a cheap freezer to advertise a low ball price on and then get you in the store and sell you something more expensive. We actually found it cheaper to take the nice chrome handle and paint it an ugly flat brown instead of making a completely different cheap handle for the cheap model. So the fact was the cheap ugly freezer cost more to make than the nicer, higher priced one.

Super Tech is a Walmart brand. There's no consistence when it comes to their product as they are typicaly made by a lowest bidder. The same Super Tech filter can be made by two completaly different manufacturers.

Same thing with car batteries

They used to be better. It's a pretty common practice to bring out a great product then rest on that reputation and offer most high priced budget options. Noticed the same with Royal Purple when they had only 2 oils available the independent tests showed them wiping the floor with every . But everything brought out since is lucky to compete with most of the common brands.

Check out Whip City Wrencher's video on Wix oil filters.

@@wg5768 there's a reason pretty much every single engine making multiple thousands of hrspwrs is running a wix or Napa filter...

@@Matt-xu6hz I've heard Napa is good.

@@billp4 it's wix gold filters for 99% of applications, even the part# is the same, just the last 4 digits of the wix numbers

@@billp4 Napa Golds are rebranded Wix filters.

Micron is the unit of measure. Micron is 1 millionth of a meter. ( 0.0000001) ( 1/1,000,000 meter)

Huge!!!!

@@t28mech Filters classify efficiency in micron. You might see it listed as Beta values if you look up filter specs. Mike D is correct in stating that Micron Rating is the way to classify filter performance quality. It is defined in the SAE and ISO test specifications for filters.

@@t28mech Just fyi, you got one too many zeros there. Micrometers (microns) are 1x10^-6 meters so 0.000001.

Smaller the microns the sooner filter goes into bypass. Both cold and hot/rpm runs. Cleaner oil but needs to be changed regularly.

My dad has used the "orange can of death" for at least 25 years and he has never had a problem. But like you said oil gets changed at 3000 miles. So I wonder if it matters much when you are changing that often.

I agree I’m still kind of confused on which one’s are better! Otherwise it was a great video.

Or at least an excel spreadsheet

If you have debris in your oil that needs filtered- you already have issues. A cold bypass. Only open for a short short time frame. The oil should be filtered already from its last use

dirty oil is better than no oil, however.

When I sold them and before that just delivered them (back in the 90's), Filters made in the USA came from 4 places. Fram, Purolator, Wix, and Champion Labs. Mobil, Group 7, Mopar (for a time), and (for a time) Quaker State, Service Pro, Atlas (for a while), and some other filters were made by Purolator, and the only big differences were the amount of paper in the folds, Purolator branded ones had more by a few inches. Wix only made filters for NAPA (Gold only) , Big engines (iirc Douglas and other large diesel/hydralic etc) and themselves at the time, and they were okay, but over-priced for cars. Fram made Penzoil, and For a time Quaker State, the only difference was the paint, and a Penzoil being $1.25/pr for the same filter Fram was then charging $4 for, and neither was worth the price of the Pennzoil, then again I though at free they were not worth the price. Champion Labs made AC Delco, Tech2000, some Bosch, Mopar for a time, Warner, STP, and others, and are easy to spot as they look just like the Tech does here. All were the same thing, often the same AC Delco blue, and were fine for normal use. The best looking US filter was Motorcraft. All 4 made filters for Ford, and All Motorcraft filters were/are exactly alike. So a Filter made for Ford's 302 V8 from any of the 4 was always the same paper, number of folds, valves cans, etc, not just a Purolator painted white and red. I caught out the Autozone salesman when he pulled the "Motorcraft filters come out of the same factory as Our store brand" (was it Duetze or something at that time?) and I told him and the customer that it was true though more likely it was from Purolator (who made the majority of Ford's filters then), and whether or not it was them, Puro, Wix or Fram, all were different than the Motorcraft. Then I said he would be better off saying his were the same as AC Delco, because they were and cutting one open would prove it.

This and the reply is spot on

@@douggainey Thank you so much, Sir👍🏽

When you tell a woman ‘I’m a pleater operator, I pleate.’ How moist were their panties?

That you know of

@@TheCarpenterUnion real good assumption except for there's no good assumptions

I use mobile 1.. fram I do not touch. As per more "reliable " sources than this

@@TheCarpenterUnion I use the same here in MN. I get my oil tested every oil change and with 130K on my 3.5 ecoboost and I am still beating the averages.

Thanks I use the same I feel it’s the best filter

Same here. Just the basic orange fram filter. Many cars over 300k km.

@@derekgardin1512 I always kind of figured that no reputable oil manufacturer or filter manufacturer wanted to be proven to be the company which produced crap products that killed engines. In theory, the only solids that should be in the filter media are wear products and other substances actually produced from running the engine...bearing material, carbon, etc. Assuming good oil pressure/circulation, proper cooling, proper mixture, etc., these should be minimal. It's a given that any air entering the engine should have gone through the air filter...no air leaks from bad air filter housing gaskets, etc. I frequently see people just checking the oil, pulling the fill cap, dumping a quart in, and driving off. Personally, the dipstick handle and top of tube get hit with brake cleaner and a rag before i pull the stick, the fill cap and area around it get the same treatment before removing the cap, as does the funnel. If it has been running around in the trunk for a while, I'll hit the top of the oil bottle as well. These are habits picked up from my dad, an Owner/Operator. It's amazing how anal about things one can be when your entire income rests on that Kenworth being on the road rather than in the shop.

Thats because 1) you bought quality cars, and 2) the most important thing is consistent oil changes, not oil/filter quality.

Damn thanks for that because I have tried some of the different type oils. So pretty much it don't matter what type we use pretty much none of them is greater than the next?

Amsoil and royal purple made by the same company with the same quality and standards? Amsoil is much better then RP

@@hightidelowtide6380 is that so?

No amsoil and rp both blend their own oil and send it in bulk to be filled into quarts or gallons. I meant they operate the same as Castrol edge. All of them blend their own oil and we just put it in bottles.

But basically the gas station brands and Quaker state are made to much lower standards. All the name brands are equal. And the high end high performance stuff is sent to the bottling companies per blended. So if your daily driver car is do for a change you should buy the brand that the auto parts store has on sale that month. Auto parts stores always has a name brand oil on sale and it changes every month. But if you have a high performance vehicle and you actually drive it like a high performance you might get some benefits from the high end stuff. But 99% of high performance vehicle owners will never push their motor hard and long enough to see any benefits from the high performance stuff.

musicwv, We just can't trust the media nowadays.

K&N makes their own filters in CA. I have never heard of K&N making anything other than K&N branded filters from any other source, so I'll say "no" regarding K&N making super tech Walmart filters. I believe you know this already.

They do this at Walmart all the time. One time I bough an air filter. Got home and opened it, it was completely black! I check everything now before I leave the store.

This is an example of an intelligent comment.

It does if your checking to see if you need glasses!

So what to do?

Facts…

I thought pushing on things with a pair of gloves was a scientific way of measuring filtration as well as weight required to move oil through the system. I have an 08 carolla, and I've used all of those filters with the exception of the super tech. The car is still running as good as the day I started driving it.

Hater. 🙄

God forbid we see how well oil filters through the media.

Mii Entertainment 🤦‍♂️

paper will soak up all that all

As it should be done

I've been doing that since I been driving.

I'm too lazy and my cars are too cheap to be spending so much. I go 6-10k.

@@_AndromedaGalaxy_ even if you have cheap cars you shouldn't let them go that long without an oil change. The parts only cost you about 30 bucks, and you could do it yourself for free in 15 min

I use a Mobil 1 filter in GM truck. I use a Honda OEM filter in Civic. I use a Toyota OEM filter in Camry. For oil I use the appropriate weight of Mobil 1 in all three. Oil changed about once a year on all three. No problems here. BTW, been changing my own for 30 years.

Xxxxxxxcç,,,, , mom

Exactly

Same as oil buy the cheapest as long as your changing every 3~5 thousand miles.

Ur not only brilliant but very lucky!

Super tech also has dexcool coolant for GM vehicles, same as name brand but substantially cheaper.

I have been being laughed at because I change my oil every 3000 mi to 5000 mi Dependingon conditions. I have used supertech oil and filters and have almost 200k on a Ford Taurus, A TAURUS!

@@norcal715 actually the Taurus engine is very good solid. The body's all rot out up here in the north east. Run it till the wheels fall off.

Agreed, I have a 2000 Silverado that just turned 100,000 miles the first oil change at 500 miles out with the factory oil and filter. Running Mobil1 5/30 with the K&N filter never had a problem. Since I retired I now go by age in place of mileage so every year when the registration comes due I do an oil & filter change. Got into that habit as new oil will almost always help when a smog test with sampling is required.

No way that oil comes out as clean as when you put it in. Oil does 3 things, cools, lubricates, and cleans as in cleans carbon off cylinder walls everytime the cylinder fires. It's physically impossible for it to come out clean. While engines burn alot cleaner than decades ago, carbon is still there, that's one thing ok is made to do is clean it off and take it away.

Dang straight. $13 for oil and $4 for the filter. Change often and your ride should live almost forever.

IF you are changing out your synthetic oil at 4000 miles - that is way too frequent - your throwing your money away.

@@mihy26 might be true but my engine is clean and stays lubricated with cleaner oil year around. I get either Valvoline or Castrol full synthetic 5 qt container at Walmart for a low price can't beat having clean oil yearly on yr car. Engines cost thousands oil is cheap!

Doroteo Garcia, how long do you keep a car and how many odometer miles before trading off? Some of those really cheap filters doesn’t do a very good job of filtering the oil. A good indicator of how good of a job your filter is doing is the color. If the color turns black before it’s time to change oil, your filter has ‘gone to the other side.’ If you get some off your dip stick between your thumb and index, (what I call my trigger finger lol) and rub it between them. If it feel slightly gritty, then you should get a higher quality filter. The filter is literally the key to the life of your engine. Some people like to trade in every couple of years or so, but I tend to get attached to one especially if I like it real well and I’ll keep it for a long time. If one turns out to be about half a lemon, then that sucker is gone gone. I bought my Dodge 1999 2500 with a V-10 4X4 and 5 speed stick new and I still have it. It’s been a sweet truck. Love that horse power torque. Still doesn’t burn a drop of oil because I’ve kept Conoco 10W30 oil in it with the highest grade Wix filter I could find and changed oil & filter every 2000 miles, until I couldn’t get Conoco brand anymore, (life in a small town) so I began using full synthetic 10W30 and Wix filter.

@@larryray3178 I have a 2009 Mazda 6 which i bought new in October 2008 it now has 178,000 still going strong i get either Super tech 2000 oil filter or use Bosch or Hasting oil filter. I also have a 2016 Mazda 6 which i bought new in June 2015 it now has 100,000 miles still runs like a champ using same oil filters as my other car. Filter is not black but light medium brown during my 4000 miles interval oil change.

FRAM IS GARBAGE EXCEPT THE ULTRA. THREE MECHANICS IN FAMILY! HAD MANY PROBLEMS WITH FRAM

Don’t have a old 4.0 Jeep by chance do you? If so what oil you run or would run. I run Rotella 10-30 currently but it’s the first time I’ve ran it. Having some lifter noise with it. Ugh

@@BradMillsOK I don't currently have any straight 6 gasoline engines. Have had them in 3 different Toyota Land Cruisers that I have owned, plus long ago in a '61 Ford Falcon. We do have a 4.2 diesel in a "FrankenJeep" truck my son drives - a Cherokee chassis with a J-truck cab and a 1930's Willys bed. His other Jeep is a '66 CJ6A with a little 225 V6. If you are sure your valve train is in good shape you might try switching to a good synthetic to try to calm the top-end rattle.

Supertec is hands down the best bet for cheap ass oil and filters. I used to work at a machine shop and we tested all standard brands of oil and filters then cut them open suprisingly Supertec performed the best for standard non fancy brands.

As long as you change your oil every 3000-5000 miles you’ll be fine using those filters

347,000 Miles total, 147,000 mi in the last 3 years on my Toyota. Using the supertech filters after seeing a similar disassembly video showing that they were very similar if not identical to some much more expensive brands. Also use the super tech 5W30 oil non synthetic. I drive a lot so keeping my costs down on the maintenance is important. The key is to check your oil level take a look at the color, and change it regularly.

I use the supertech for all my oil changes as well.

Lucky you

i use them too1983.5.0 ford original motor never had a problem...don't use synthetic either... oil is cheap filters are too.. change your oil regularly!NP

Why take a chance. Saving a few bucks every 5 months is simply not worth the risk.

My dad has used them for 25 years as well, no problems. Just change the oil every 3-4k miles and it won't matter if its the "orange can of death".

Or H.I. McDunnough from Raising Arizona

Totally

THANK YOU! That was driving me nuts

I thought the exact same thing!! Its the kid from slingblade all grown up haha!!

@@kornfreak401 Now I want some fried taters. Hmmmmmmmmm.

I always used FRAM. Never had engine problems.

Having a filter is better than not having one. I would be willing to bet that an engine wouldn't fail if you rigged it to use no filter at all. This should be the "Control" test rig, but no one does it to see real engine wear or the results of any filter.

@@toddfandrey4242 we had a lot of people at our shop come in with destroyed engines because their fram filter came apart.

@@slingbart705 My Dad's airplane didn't have a filter and it lasted a very long time, it just had a oil screen.

Wixom sux

I never did until recently, 25+ years and one almost got me. Screwed the new filter on, fished the old one out of the drain pan. No o-ring, fish the pan with a screwdriver, no o-ring....pull the new filter, low and behold, o-rings!

It's happened to me with the orange Frams

I do a lot of oil changes and it's stayed on only a couple of times but I tend to over tighten mine quite a bit. I do check every time though to make sure it's not stuck on engine.

It doesn't happen often. But I used to change oil at a dealership, amd I had it happen a few times.

I actually have had it happen on a few occasions each time it was a orange fram filter.

Good suggestion, I never thought of that!

This seems to be the norm for most everything you buy anymore. Literally take everything out of packaging at register. Yes, I’ve seen a dude get burned by buying an electric impact, only to get home and discover a brick inside the case.

You’re, not your.

@@mrbriancandoanything709 OH MY GOD , LOOK OUT , HERE COMES THE SPELLING POLICE !!!

Grammer police actually

Yes please 🙏 I'm like why the fuck is he holding a fram filter talking about the mobil1 bypass valve

@@spudbot69 I just thought he was bipolar.

Yah the jumping around made my eyes spin. I think it's a really valuable comparison that would be an outstanding comparison with a systematic left- to- right flow, repeated in each category, and maybe a chart to sum it up at the end. Lose the gloves, everything is clean. Having said all that, thank you for an informative piece that will improve my own practice.

Super Tech and K&N filters are both made by the same company, Champion Labs.

I've seen other videos here on RU-vid that deconstruct the SuperTech filter vs. a name brand (I think it was Fram) and the ST was the better filter by a wide margin.

I lost an engine (4.3L V6) in a 1995 GMC Safari van. At the time of failure, the odometer had 166,000 miles. Back then, I was using Castrol oil and Fram filters. I changed filters with every oil change at 6,000 mile intervals. At the time of failure, the engine would crank and run with a loud knock. Oil pressure was at 40 psi. Long story short, I had a rebuilder do the tear-down and overhaul. Upon inspection, he showed me pieces of filter pleat he had removed from oil journals on the #6 rod throw. Others were visible, but the #6 rod bearing is the one that failed first. It was a simple choice for me. I have never used a Fram product since. I now run Amsoil exclusively in everything. For the record, that’s the only engine failure I’ve ever experienced.

@@mikejensen6684 6000 miles seems kinnda long

@@mikejensen6684 I've never had an engine failure and I've used Fram filters exclusively. Oil type doesn't matter either. I've used all kinds, whatever is cheapest. I don't believe your scenario.

6000 miles every oil change back in 95 is a long time that's 2x the time to change it. Plus I've heard not so great thing about Castrol but that's just hear say. But the 6k every change is wild

@@MyDyerMaker I was into the Fram for over 30 years also but once I saw what was inside, never again. Why would you keep using a Fram when you know they are not good? Does not make sense to purposely, knowingly use a inferior product. I never had a problem with the Fram and now I'll never have a problem without a Fram.

Where I live the temperatures get as low as minus 50 in winter ( -50 Celsius). Mobil 1 is king up here.

Ahh.. I always add in about 20% lucas original.. my dad is a diesel mechanic all his life works on all his own skidders loaders bulldozer semis and whatever the 3 wheel machine think its called a bell buncher for grabbing and slicing thru a tree. An he swears by lucas for engine wear and cold starts. He says oils are so thin they drain off the top end by the time the engine is cold but lucas leave a thick greasy film on the top end.. and cold starts are where most your damage comes from and so the top end is protected immediately before the oil gets to them with the lucas. These are diesels but ive always used it and you can definately hear a difference in old engines its just smoother even feels less flat thru the powerband with lucas.

Synthetic oil still thickens up in cold weather, just not as much as conventional

@@learn2farm509 your dad is a smart man and absolutely right about cold starts being most of engine wear, I to use about 20% synthetic lucas stabilizer with my oil changes.

@@learn2farm509 that's not how it works anymore. It's a bad idea to thicken the oil with Lucas goo in cold weather in modern engines. Modern engines have tight tolerances. So it's important that the oil is thin and can flow into tight spaces. There's no room for sticky goo in between the moving parts. The goo will starve the engine from oil flow. The engine will have to work harder so they will be more heat.

@@chrisdonnelly5904 what do you and learn2 farm mean by 20%?