Thank you for the video. Got the idea the other day and figured there had to be a video. I use a short piece of rubber hose on the drill bit as a drill stop with the drill bit peeking out of the hose by 1/8" to keep from poking the bit inside too far.
That’s great! Exactly what I was about to do on my truck. So glad to see you do it for reference. Thank you!!! Crazy how on new cars there are no zerks. On my old ‘91 ford I had a zero everywhere and never had to change any parts on suspension.
A man after my own heart. One thing noticeable is that there is no sign of grease when you drill the hole. This seems to prove they only put a minimal amount of grease in. A further exploration would’ve been to stick a Q-tip in and see if there is any grease detectable. Much thanks for the demo.
Thanks for the vid, might need to do this myself lol. I ordered Ebay ball joints that were pictured with zerk fittings, the ones I received didn't have them, good times.
Been contemplating doing this to a set of tie rods I recently replaced. The original set had zerks, the new ones do not. I think I’ll proceed to do it once things warm up above freezing where I live since I’ll be doing it outside.
I like it. The only place where I've changed my mind about grease-able fittings is in universal joints. The purpose of grease fittings is twofold - lubricate the fitting and the grease also helps keep contaminants from getting into the joint and causing wear. From what I understand, the NON-greaseable universal joints are sealed better to keep the grease in and keep contaminants out. With grease-able universal joints there must be openings to the outside world as the grease needs to be constantly refilled which means contaminants must be coming in, too. Just my opinion. I'd have to do a lot more Internet research to find out the difference between grease-able and non-greaseable ball joints before I make a final decision on that.
Use 1/4" x28 Zerks. A #3 cobalt drill bit, a tapered and possibly a BOTTOM tap in 1/4x28. You must WRAP the Zerk threads in PTFE (Teflon) tape before installation.
Good job on video...the older I get I see..more and more things are made nonrepairable ..technology added to mechanical thing make it for dealership repair .I hate big corporations are cutting out the shade tree mechanics...my next move is to hoarding all my gas vehicles parts that are being phased out...
That’s awesome! I’m going to do this to a pair that I got before I install them. I’ll take the boot off and run some grease through to get any metal shavings out.
Don't do that! Drill from the bottom instead and let gravity do its thing. You would not be able to "flush" chips as they will never pass thru the top. Refer to this Image and Article. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_joint
Thanks for the video! I bought Moog control arms and after 4 months one of the sealed ball joints is squeaking. I was going to inject into the boot with a needle, but this looks like the correct way to do it.
Hi, were you able to put grease in the Moog ball joints? Did it solve the problem or was it just Moog parts quality problem? I was just about to order Moog parts as I come across your comment that got me a little concerned with the QC from Moog
@@mr.gk5 I drilled, tapped and greased mine just like the video, and immediately the squeaking stopped, but just a few days later the clunking started, and it kept getting louder and worse. I checked and found play in the ball joint. It had already gone bad. I also found my passenger one had a tiny bit of movement in the ball joint as well with a little clunk that I'd been hearing for over a month not knowing it was the ball joint. I replaced them with Mevotech control arms with greaseable ball joints, and greased them upon installation, and so far so good. It's only been a month. Time will tell.
@@JonathanDavid374 seems like it's not MOOG QC problem then , just a coincidence that your ball joints went. Anyway, nipples are for preventative maintenance, there's nothing you can do if it'd already gone bad. I think I'll give MOOG parts a try.
Is that true, that Moog is crap now? I just bought Moog control arms, and 4 months later the sealed ball joint is squeaking. I thought Moog was the best. So what's a good brand to buy now?
salim metin A tap threads the hole, nothing to do with using the correct size drill (as long as you use the correct size drill for the tap). Unless you have a self tapping grease fitting, you still have to tap the hole no matter what size drill you use.
@@dvader3000 Not worth doing as the grease would not do anything!!! The grease needs to be in the housing not the overflow seal. Cut apart a ball joint and you will see what I am talking about.
