Thanks for the video. Very thorough and clearly explained. I live on a sailboat and have been running Starlink through a 1000 watt inverter with 200 watts solar and a 200 Ah lithium. I'm at a marina with shore power for winter so 12V doesn't really matter right now. Still, it will make for an interesting project as I try to move a lot of my devices to 12V. It certainly was nice to fire up Starlink on a rainy day while anchored remotely and watch RU-vid videos though.
We are in the same boat! Pun intended. We have Starlink running off our inverter but will convert to 12vlt DC with your help. 800amp hour house bank with 840 watts of solar
This is a fantastic and instructive video, you compile all the informations we want to know. Thanks for all of your efforts and I encourage you to continue!
Fantastic video. I’m current travelling using Starlink through inverter but after viewing your video will convert to 12 volt including the smaller modem. Well done!
Nice! It's good to have options, particularly on the off the shelf products--the route I'll take and just an extra unit in case of failure. Thank you. I liked and subscribed for the algorithm.
Amazing, simple-but-detailed video for the fairly-sophisticated DIY candidate. I was looking for ways to set up my Starlink for an Airstream application, and I think this will work. Looking forward to trying it out! I am NOT going to reduce the length of the Starlink cable however, because campers like me often need the additional length to allow me to place the satellite dish where there is access to open sky.
Well done explanation and step by step, especially appreciate the tests done at the end. Best RU-vid video on 12VDC conversion yet! I like the idea of using the Dishy Dualie but forgoing the Yaosheng adapter and simply cutting the Starlink cable and swapping 3&4 and 5&6 and creating a standard RJ45 pinout to go into the Dishy Dualie. Then I can cut the cable shorter for my van flag mount and create a second longer cable for use when there are trees or other obstacles to be avoided.
It's me again. I have the setup mocked up using the components that you did and the Starlink is not receiving power. Troubleshooting. The Yaosheng seems to have a fair number of DOA failures, per the Amazon reviews. I am checking for alternatives. I will hook up the Starlink router hooked to 110 and see if I have connectivity and of course will check out my two RJ45 jacks. I ran the Starlink cable underneath the RV in protective loom prior to putting the jack on. It connects to a Neutrik waterproof jack installed on the back bumper of the RV. I then attached a waterproof Neutrik cable carrier on the end of the cable going to the dish.
This was exactly the video I was looking for. Great job and I'm more than happy to subscribe with quality like this. Thanks, Wander On- Kyle and Michelle
I may have missed you mention this but Tyco makes a direct 12v to POE injector so you don't need to have a separate boost converter. Model TP-DCDC-1248G-HP. We used variants of these at solar power sites
You need 48v because that's what the starlink dish needs. You can find other POE units that will also work but this is just an inexpensive option. Also many POE injectors don't support the amount of power starlink needs. Just need to make sure it can power it properly.
This is a great video. Thank you 🙏 I especially appreciate the power consumption tests. I'm off-grid a lot and rely on my lithium batteries / solar / DC-to-DC charger for everything. I've been really curious just how much power I could save by doing a Starlink 12V conversion.
Hey Dan, completed your 12V conversion and have not been successful in setting up the router to access WiFi and negate the original router. Do you have a video outlining how to set up the GL iNet router with Starlink?
Great video, I just need to know how you setup the router to work with Starlink as I can’t seem to get it to work ( I have the same router) any help with settings would be amazing
Thank you for the time and effort you've put into this video. I will be following your instructions and hopefully will be able to set up on my boat here in the Philippines. I will be mounting dishy flat, as on a boat having the dish constantly moving as the boat moves would consume even more power. Also a flat installation is my only option in my case. My question is, I wonder how much power can be saved by bypassing those electric motors? Has anyone any experience, or ideas about this? Regards Mark.
A tip I've seen on the wago connectors that you are using to bus the 12 volt source to the POE injector and router, is to get Wago lever nut connectors with 1 additional connection that normally you don't use.That said, having it means you can do something like add a 12 socket in line, or attach a power monitor so you can see if your power is dropping below 10 volts, which is about the lower limit that you want to have for 12v batteries. Amazon has 4 port Wago connectors (at the moment) in lots of 100 for $1.59 USD. And if you want to do all of the above, and add the option for even more ports, you can use the extra port to jumper to another block and you've now got 3 additional ports, or get a wago with more ports. It may be a good idea to color the case of the Wago connector related to the voltage and polarity they carry. Yellow is common in PC's for 12 volt, and red for 5 volt. In many autmotive setups, +12v is red. Black is often ground. Note that if you're wiring to a camper's battery supply be very careful to know what that color coding means. In my pop-up camper, the ground wire is white, and the +12 cable is black. I've never used that to supply 12 volts, but people may want to be aware of it before they start hooking up power to their equipment. Sanity check the voltages.
Great video! Maybe I would color code the patch cables so that it is more difficult to plug in to the wrong RJ45 connector. The more interesting data would be after you get on-site and hone in on a satellite, motors stopped. this would be the steady-state case for most of the time.
in shortening standard star link cable, the crimping end should be the standard pair twisted ( wo, o, wg, b, wb, g, wbr ,br ) or the poe type ( wo, o, b, wg, g, wb, wbr ,br ) thanks
@@freelyroaming ....so in the initial hook-up phase the modifications show a marked improvement in consumption . After the dishy locates and connects to a satellite and stabilizes, 5 minute mark, do the 4 different connections consume the same amount of power ? - less ?
The last 3 minutes of each test simulate what the dish consumes while connecting to satellites. So an active connection should be of similar power consumption.
Fantastic video, I learned a lot, many thanks. If I take the motors out, any idea as to how much that would save. Saw Freelander did this. However, got no savings numbers.
Very nice video! I do have a question, though. I have the Dishy Dualie, and I have a MOFI 5500 router. I am curious if I could connect the three power cables together like you did for your setup, instead of a completely different 12v power source for the MOFI? I'd like to add that for the MOFI 5500, you have to remove the Router POE voltage selection jumper on the Dishy Dualie, I'm not sure if you had to do that for your router since it is powered outside of the Dualie, I just did not see you mention it. This video was very in-depth and the surprise test at the end was great. Thank you for making content!
Since my router isn't poe compatible, I did not enable that feature on my dishy dualie. I'm not very familiar with the MOFI 5500 but assuming your 12v power source is adequate (meaning it would run at a sufficient voltage during the highest power draw), I don't see why you can just use that single power source split to 2 outputs like I did in the video.
Regarding your recommended 12v to 48v step up power converter, I happened to install the same one with the Yaosheng POE injector and cable adapter and I see frequent brief “Disconnected” messages in the Starlink app. (It works fine with the original Starlink router.) I contacted Yaosheng and asked for help in other forums and the repeated advice I’ve received is that those power converters can be problematic (including introducing noise that affects performance). The recommendation is to use a Mean Well DDR-120-48 converter instead. I’ve ordered one and hopefully that resolves my problem. Just FYI to folks that you may want to avoid that particular brand of step up converter.
The problem is actually more related to the 12v power source. Aka your battery and how much it sags under draw or your conductors. During startup, starlink can burst up to 100+ watts of draw. If you have improperly sized wires or too long of a run causing increased resistance and voltage sag, it can cause starlink to restart. Other larger power supplies like the meanwell have larger capacitors so it can deal with demand surges from starlink without sagging the voltage as much. By using 12 awg wiring i do not have this issue but it happens if I use 14 or 16 awg wires. Alternatively, you can also run your 12v source first into an 13.8v DC power regulator (like this amzn.to/3v8HMEQ) before running into the 12-48 boost. I know this is the case because when I have a separate large load on the battery while starlink is on, like an induction cooktop powered by my inverter, it sags the voltage on the battery and causes starlink to disconnect.
@@freelyroaming I was testing with just a couple feet of 12 awg wire. My LiPo battery system would have been probably around 13.3V and almost no other loads, just a few watts of lights. Also, the momentary disconnect status doesn’t cause the dish to restart or anything, I just see it happening in the app when testing this 12V setup vs no such behavior when running the original router off the inverter. Yaosheng blame that Eagwell power converter. 🤷♂️ I’m about to try the Mean Well but I don’t like how bulky it is. I’m wishing now I had found and ordered the Dishy Dualie that integrates the step up converter, POE injector and remote switch control in one small package.
I should add that while troubleshooting I’ve seen various folks say the Eagwell converter generates EM noise which can degrade the ethernet connection with the dish, dropping from a 1000Mb to 100Mb connection with some routers, thus limiting speed to under 100 Mbps.
@@christophercrim919 it happens with the dishy dualie as well. That's what I use as seen in the video. I suspect it also will with the meanwell. There is going to be a lot or finger pointing with this kind of hard-to-pinpoint issue. Are you using a 3S lipo pack? If so, the voltage is much lower and under load it will certainly sag below the proper voltage causing it to disconnect. If it's a dedicated pack, I'd go with a 4S.
@@freelyroaming I’m having the same Starlink message, and even though it says connected on the app, I get no inet….also, I’m on shore power so have perfect 13.8 V. Plenty of power…
You mean the whole thing you explained doesn’t apply or just the little adapter to the router from the dish? I have all the pieces already mounted in camper except the connection from the dish😮
Great Job! I had seen videos on all the other parts, pieced 90% of that together, but still had questions. ONE QUESTION about the unions, such as the weather union, are both RJ ordered 1-8 (flipped in the union) or is one 1-8 and the other 8-1 (left to right), looking down the cable to the jack as continuity is not flipped by the union? Thank you. Hope my question makes sense.
I’ve ordered and set up everything in your “easiest” system. My router isn’t getting internet from the dishy. Is there something that has to be done with the networking? I have the same router as in the video. Thank you for the help
Several things can be happening. Most common are bad ethernet cable or too much voltage sag. Connect your phone to another internet connection and open up the starlink app. If starlink is getting enough power, you should see it online even if your router isn't connected.
Thanks for the video. I have done this with the "tycon" and the "gl inet ax3000" router. Everything connects and the starlink app works but the speeds are unusable. Has anyone experienced this?
Thank you for your video. I am a boater with a sailing boat and thanks to you I will crimp my first data cable at the age of 65. I also bought the Dischy from Boondocker but have not yet installed it in my boat which is in Greece. Your video is very understandable and everything is perfectly explained down to the last detail. Do you know the best way to get the Starlink Dischy permanently in a flat position, which is necessary for use on a sailing boat? Many thanks and best regards from Prague/ Czech republic Filip Hering
I'm glad it was helpful. I have not done a flat mount conversion personally but if you don't want to pay for sometime to do it for you, there are lots of videos in watched of people who have done it successfully.
Thanks I'm looking at getting starlink in Mexico for my south America part of my world trip, and i want to convert to 12 volt ,and don't have a lot of space in my land rover 110 so this will help , thanks Andy, ps ,i met up with you in the Uk at show some time ago 😁
Welcome to North America! We are currently in Mexico right now and waiting to see if the protests will end in Guatemala in order to continue on. Getting SL in MX is a good idea. Much cheaper there. I am seeing about a 15% power reduction from the conversion. That is a combination of 12v conversion and a shortened cable. Good luck! Maybe our paths will cross again down here!
@@freelyroaming thanks I came in I came in April and travelled all over Canada Alaska now in the states and I'll be in Mexico December so I might see around 😁
@@yodaworks the DishyDualie has been used by many people and I understand it is very reliable... Not sure which part of "understanding why" you are looking for an answer on?
First off, great video and detailed explanations. Late to the party but I'll comment any way. The power draw in the first 5 minutes is significant but what I would be mostly interested in the the power reduction after the dish is lock on. I only assume the power consumption is significantly lower after the dish is locked on and happy? Does anyone have an answer to that? If it is still 18% reduction (I think that was the number from worst to best case) then it might be worth the investment.
The dish is never locked on for more than 4 minutes at a time. The power consumption during normal use varies based on activity type and level. The power savings will probably not be as high as 18% because that is considering no idle time. 18% is an exaggerated figure and I would say best case scenario as it shows the efficiency difference between the 2 setups.
The Dishy Dualie instruction mentions removing the jumper if your router are not PoE enabled. Can you comment on this? Thanks for the great video and instructions.
Sooooo. By doing it this way, I can drive my Gen 2/3 dishey down the road in my RV with the roam purchase internet and my wife can run her laptop and work while I drive??? I heard this would connect to a phone,, but will it connect like it would at my home to my computers? Just trying to clarify.
It should onnect to any wifi enabled device like normal. Technically the standard roam account is not allowed in motion use. However some have been able to do it regardless. Your mileage may vary.
Great video, best ive seen on this topic. Thank you. I do have a question though. in your description below the video you have all of your links and this one Bulkhead CAT6 RJ-45 Coupler: caught my eye. may I ask, is this coupler grounded? Im looking for a grounded coupling for my starlink cable to put through the bulkhead of my narrowboat. Thank you in advance
Very interesting video. I know little of Starlink but I'm wondering about the power saving results. Test was nice but it's set up so that the dish is constantly searching for satellites. In a sense it's a start up power comparison. Presumably (I repeat that I know little about Starlink) power usage changes once satellites are found and as the satellites move overhead. It would be nice to see how power usage changes over a longer period of time (hr+) with signal found and idling or say streaming a movie. That might give a better indication of long term power savings (or not). Anyway, enjoyed the video. Nice to see that 12V conversion is possible and your instructions were thorough and detailed. Cheers.
Part of how starlink works is that every 4 minutes it has to connect to a new satellite. And while it is connected to one it has to constantly track it as it moves in and out of its 100 degree view every 4 minutes while it moves at 17000 kph at 350 km elevation. It's not a geostationary satellite service. The test is to simulate and also exaggerate that constant searching. And since all 4 tests were performed identically, the comparisons can be relied on.
@@cfriedalek you're welcome. Btw, I've mentioned before that in AC mode, starlink uses about 1kwh per 24 hour period. This is my measurement after running continuously for 5 days.
@@freelyroaming Oh, that's a useful measurement! I must have missed that in the video. Thanks again. Will help me with planning for my future offroad travels. Cheers.
Hi Guys, made my Starlink just as you told with the yaoshengadapter and with the dushy dualie. But the dich wohnt start. Checken all the cables. I took a longer cable cat8 from dicht dualie to the yaoscheng adapter. But i dont think that would be a issue. Please help because I don’t know what’s wrong.
Good stuff mate! Question though - how much work did you have to do to the GL.iNet router, to get it to work with the Starlink system, without any of the standard Starlink gear attached?
Thanks. Nothing. You don't have to do anything to the new router. It just connects. Right out of the box starlink will assign the router a DHCP IP address.
I am unfamiliar with smart DNS routers so I can give you a definitive answer. But I imagine if it works on a typical WAN connection, it's worth trying here.
Great video. Thanks for all the product links and clear step by step guide. However, in the end I'm thinking how much am I going to spend to save 20 Watts instead of the original setup: Probably this whole setup is around 300 dollars, and that is a lot of money just to convert it to work on 12V.
Awesome tutorial, thanks a lot for the effort. I'm a bit confused. If I'm using the Tico POE injector how many of the RJ45 ends of the cable to I need to swap around to cater for Starlink's POE pinouts. So if i cut the Starlink cable near the dish, and i put a RJ45 on one end, so i can plug it into a rj45 coupler, what pinouts do i use on that rj45? Then, the cable that goes into the coupler and goes to the Tico POE, what pinout do i use on the coupler end of the cable, and what pinouts do i use on the end that goes into Tico?
Many thanks for the great video! I have now ordered all the parts, and I look forward to setting all things up. One question though: do I need the Starlink Ethernet Adapter?
Ok…I’ve checked the crossover cables that I’ve crimped,..checks out good. And the voltage is good at 48. And Starlink app says it’s connected…but there’s not internet. Seems the router is confused somehow…any suggestions?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience on this. It seems that I’m not alone in having problems installing the Dishy Dualie (DD) and getting the StarLink to recognize my router. I already had the dishy to router cable cut and reconnected using an RJ45 coupler as a necessary step to pass the cable through a deck fitting, and it worked fine. I plugged the dishy end of that cable into the dishy port on the DD and a new (tested and verified) ethernet cable, using RJ45 T568B pin sequence, to connect the DD router port to my router WAN port. My RUT950 router is powered by a separate POE because it is passive POE and can’t handle 48v. The jumper on the DD board has been removed as per the DD instruction sheet. With the 12v power turned on I get the red light on the DD board and my router is showing ON. I connected my phone to the router wifi, to be on the same network, and then opened the StarLink app on my phone. The StarLink is showing Disconnected and will not recognize my router. I have opened the router admin page and it shows there is no WAN input. I tried another router (RedPort Optimizer) and had the same problem. The second router was a long shot as it is not a conventional router. Maybe I should buy another, simple router and try that? I have spent two days tearing my hair out and wonder, is there additional StarLink configuration required? My 12v supply is good and, when batteries are fully charged, can get as high as 14.2v and as only as low as 13v. This is normal voltage fluctuation during the charge / discharge cycle on AGM batteries on my boat. I have reached out to Boondocker but not had a reply yet? What am I missing? Any advice would be extremely helpful and appreciated. I wonder what happened in your installation? Did the dishy and new router connect as normal and did the app go through its usual sequence until it showed ONLINE?
Under Dishy Dualie DC FAQs states "Can I power it with a cigarette lighter adapter?" "No, you cannot." Do you have any problems using lighter adapter? and do you know why they say no?
I am only using the lighter socket for demonstration purposes. In an installation you would not want to use it. It will cause voltage dips which can create issues with reliability. Starlink dish tends to power cycle when the voltage sags below a certain level and the connections via a lighter socket is too vulnerable.
A little confused. I thought the benefit of using the little GL-MT3000 (Beryl AX) modem with USB C power via the little buck boost converter was to avoid having to use a POE device. Why would the jumper on the Boondocker board need to be moved to the VIN setting? This is in distinction from using the other method mentioned in the video using the POE injector, specially wired cables,
The only thing powered via POE is the Starlink dish. Everything else needs to be powered directly. The jumper in the Boondocker gives you the option if you happen to use a router that CAN be powered over POE which Beryl is not able to.
@@freelyroaming Thanks for quick reply. The Boondocker board powers the Starlink dish via POE from the board. The Beryl is powered via USB C and the little Buck/boost device. I'm doing the method using the YAOSHENG Dishy Cable Adapter to RJ45, and the 12V to 5V USB C Buck Converter, so the stock Boondocker jumper arrangement doesn't need to be changed, correct?
@@freelyroaming Just FYI. Got in touch with the Boondocker folks and got an answer within the hour. For any modem such as the Beryl, an externally powered (USB C in this case) non-POE modem, the well marked red jumper on the Dishy Dualie board should be removed and saved in case the setup is changed in the future. Thanks for such a complete video and orientation to this process. Very well done. My DD arrived in Jan 2024.
Have you had any issues with the Gl inet Beryl router? Any specific settings you have used? I am looking at Gl inet 's online forums and it seems that folks are having issues with the Beryl plus Starlink. I hope there are DC/USB powered router alternatives.
The only issues I've had is that I've used a couple of Ethernet cables that had poor connections. I tried a couple different higher quality cables and found one that works reliably.
@@freelyroaming Thanks. I got on to another project. My problem that I thought was the Beryl turned out to be an activation issue, not anything hardware wise. Everything is working well. I have decided to get one of the compact entry level Eero routers as a backup, since they have the same USB C input and low power req as the Beryl. I have Eero's in the house and they work well. Everything is working fine. My first two RJ45 crimps were good, thanks to you. I looked long and hard but was able to find some short shielded and grounded Ethernet cables
Thanks for taking the time to create this video. I just wanted to confirm what wiring scheme you should use if you want to cut the dish cable and terminate it in an rj45 so it can be connected directly into the dishy dualie? Should it be EIA568B?
Thanks very much for putting so much effort into the video. I'm interested in saving watts with my off grid system. I appreciate the savings to be made in your four scenarios however it seems that the cost of the extra equipment is significant enough that for folk that have the space (off grid folks like myself) they might be better investing the money in more solar? Edit: nevertheless I'll probably shorten my cable which seems like a no brainer if you don't need the full 75 feet.
Very good video. I was lucky to buy one of the boondockers 12v units long before I got my caravan, eventually got it and busy installing it. Just a question about the boondocker setting? Using the router you have there the PoE setting on the boondocker is correct or do I have to change it to the VIN setting? Thanx Johnny
@@freelyroamingno, I understand that. Let me rephrase my question. Would simply replacing the the proprietary Starlink connector with an RJ45 work plugged directly into the POE injector or is there some other circuitry inside the Yousheng adapter? Also, do you know the current that the dish requires? Cheers
Starlink uses a somewhat non-standard order of the twisted pairs. I talked about this in the video. Namely it switches 3 and 4, as well as 5 and 6. There is no IC in the cable so if you know the proper order (shown in the video), you can just terminate your own cat6 plug in that order. However if you don't do it properly, you risk sending 48v power down the line to your dish and will likely burn up a component or two.
@@freelyroamingthanks, I just wanted to make sure. And yes, I have the knowledge as I am a 30 year network engineer. I just don’t know squat about Starlink. BTW, thanks for the super quick responses. Cheers
@@MV_Checkmate i missed your question about current. The main reason that starlink needs 48v is to lower the current in the relatively thin cable. The dish itself actually runs on 12v and the 48v sent via POE is stepped down to 12v once it gets to the dish. That said, it tops out at about 10 or 11 amps in 12v and the 48v in the cat6 cable it is about 3 amps. You'll want to make sure there isn't too much voltage sag in your 12v supply when it draws the max current. It has a tendency to power cycle when it drops below 11v.
So I’m getting confused regarding the swapped ends of the patch cables. You mark them with tape. In other folks videos BOTH of the swapped end goes to the that little 1000 POE, but in yours, the dishy swap goes to the POE, and the Data out is 568B, with its swapped going into router. Which is correct.
To make it easy, don't use the Tycon POE. Just get the Yaosheng or other injectors made for starlink. There are several available now. This way you don't even need to think about swapping any twisted pairs. Just crimp them all normally.
Thank you for all the info. I have a travel trailer with solar panels and inverter, and I travel with a 120v generator. When boondocking, I can charge my batteries if the solar panels don't charge the batteries at the end of the day. I don't see a need to convert to 12v DC for my Starlink system as I can charge my batteries with the solar panels or generator the next day. Your thoughts? thx.
With an efficient inverter the power savings won't be that significant so unless you have other reasons like wanting to use your own router then you probably don't need to convert.
No. If you leave it on through the night it will deplete it by morning. And a 100w panel wont be enough to keep it running let alone also charge the battery. I would go with 100Ah and 200W solar.
Great video! I’m trying to make my setup work but the dish is not responding, my PoE sends energy through pins 4 and 5 (as +) and 7 and 8 (as -). Do I have to use a PoE that sends power through all 8 pins?
In a couple of places, you mentioned the "75 foot standard cable". My Gen 2 came from the factory with a 50 foot cable. I'm in Ecuador, so I don't know if this is specific to this country, or if they have just started shipping shorter cables. I've heard that the new Gen 3 uses standard RJ45 connectors rather than these proprietary plugs, so they are always changing...
Yes, depends on what POE you use, just make sure to have the proper order of your twisted pairs. If you get them wrong, you can short out components in the dish.
Glad you show boondocker's 48V-24V converter. I also got the off the shelf starlink to RJ45 cable direct from Starlink. Then added my Slate wifi router. Now i just need a nice looking box to mount it in. Any reason you went with the GLi AX3000 router over their AX1800? Both are Wifi6
Honestly I don't know all of the differences between all of the GL.iNet routers. I have 2 and even those they are different models, they behave pretty much the same. The AX3000 seemed to be the best value at the time when I bought it.
looks like the AX1800 just has an extra LAN port (2) as compared to the AX3000 (1) and costs an extra $10. I don't use the LAN port so it makes more sense to me to skip it and save 10 bucks.
Do those couplers flip the pins? So that 1-8 remains 1-8, and not the reverse for one. In other words can I wire the RJ the same right from same perspective?
Would you please post a link to where you purchased the 3D printed case for the Dishy Dualie. I'm having a hard time finding any vendor who offers the 3D printed case. Thanks very much
Is it worth converting to 12volt? Or easier just to get a small inverter? Can anyone elaborate on which is better and why? I've been told converting to 48volts or 240volts will waste around the same amount of power, is this right? I want to put SL in my RV with fulltime traveling Australia. TIA
Thanks! I used a lynksys router and it connects to the internet but the dish says “disconnected”. Did you configure the router to pass through or set a specific IP for the dish?
Man this is a fantastic video! I'm planning to order the dishy dualie stuff asap as there is a pre-order process but I've got a quick question if you don't mind. In their website FAQ that is a question someone asked about if it can be powered with a cigarette lighter adapter; to which the answer was "no." However, it seems you had no problem with this in your demo and I was wondering what their reasoning might be, in your estimation?
I am using this with a power station with a relatively short cable and 14v output. Other cigarette lighter setups won't have enough power to keep the dish running.
@@freelyroaming Awesome, thanks! I've got a small camper trailer with a 200Ah LiFePO4 battery bank so I'm guessing my best bet would be to run this straight into my fuse panel (or a switch connected to it)? Thanks again!
