I've watched two of your videos so far, and appreciate your thorough approach. Thanks for all the details, and now I feel good to go with my radiator flush tomorrow... 1999 XC70. Great work Robert.
Thanks Robert. I appreciate all your videos. I have a 97 Volvo 850 that started leaking from the cap of the reservoir and took it in to Volvo only mechanic. He gave me some misinformation which didn't solve the problem so I took it back and he put in a new thermostat. It continues to leak out of the cap on the reservoir. All this time I had been replacing with tap water as I didn't know I needed distilled. I asked the 'Volvo mechanic' who has been working on Volvo's for 20+ years if the problem isn't now due to too much water and he glanced at it and saw it still had some color to it and said, no that shouldn't be the problem. Anyway, I'm going to try this flush and with the correct coolant and flush hopefully it will stop the leak from the cap. Although, the leak did start after many miles with no problems and still don't know why it started in the first place. Have you ever experienced a leak from the overflow tank cap for seemingly no reason? - seems to just start boiling over, seeping out the cap no matter how tightly screwed down. The temp gauge never shows running hot - stays in the middle. If I drive 20 miles, it loses 1/2 gallon, not while I'm driving, the light doesn't go on, but after sitting and when I go to restart it shows low coolant and then it takes the 1/2 gallon. BTW, I bought a new after market expansion tank and cap and that did nothing to correct the problem. Thanks for any insight you have.
So I flushed my radiator as you instructed on your video and refilled with HOAT coolant. And distilled water for the balance. I had purchased another new cap in hopes that maybe possibly the last new one was defective. After the flush and the new cap I’m happy to say that my problem has been resolved!
Excellent job on all your videos. I have two volvos. A 1999 s70 2.3 turbo (manual transmission) and a 2004 v70 non turbo and have referenced your videos whenever I run in to trouble or just to learn something new. Thanks for all your help. Really appreciate what you do on here. :)
First time to see your channel and you are right on target with the information concerning the proper coolant to use. Did some research a few months ago concerning OAT vs HOAT, even contacted Peak who said their products are essentially the same formula with different dye added to them. I own an old Mercedes diesel and the G-05 coolant is approved, yes its more expensive than common products, but a head or water pump is more expensive due to going cheap on the fluids. I found the information on the Zerex coolant bottle to be confusing or misleading making it difficult to know if you are using an OAT or a HOAT coolant. It's the way it was written to use the key words by the marketing department. Just want to point that out for others to see. Good Job on this video!
It is confusing on the Zerex bottle. But the way I understand it, our '95 960 with a new radiator filled bluish coolant, I can top off the reservoir with the gold stuff (as long as it is HOAT) as my light comes on every few days.
Thank you! Coolant hose broke loose after a fastening ring rusted through. Decided to flush the system so not to mix coolants, the old coolant looked fresh but I had no clue about the mixture ratio... so helpful to know the bleed nipples you point at, great solution by Volvo! Let the water hose run until clear water appeared and poured a 50/50 mixture in. A breeze after seeing your video, removing the thermostat was super easy. Thanks again!
Thank you for this video. I've always wondered how to get ALL of the coolant out of the system, I never saw that little bleed nipple in the area of the front axle. Wonderfull!
Thanks for the great video, Robert. About to do a flush, water pump, timing belt on my XC70 with 230K miles on it. I am at the 5 year mark so it is due. Was planning on the thermostat and sensor as well. The tip about the air bleed in the thermostat is helpful.
Thanks Robert. I've been using regular Prestone in my 1995 850 and 2002 V70XC. FCP just did a good write-up on the differences between OAT, HOAT, and straight etheleyne glycol. I will need to do this change to HOAT very soon.
Robert, thank you. I just picked up an XC60 2015, and was surprised/startled to see yellow coolant. I was just afraid it might have been Dex-Cool, but I guess it's just the G-05. Planning to replace it with G48.
Like many others of your subscribers, Im very thankful for your videos. I have used several of them to guide me through my own Volvo repairs. Last week my car ran hot, wouldn't crank. (almost no radiator coolant) The oil didn't look milky... I replaced all spark plugs And Sparkplug wires. I flushed Oil and Radiator coolant, then added new liquids. (oil/antifreeze) I cranked car, AND IT STARTED smoothly. But there's a lot of pressure in the radiator reservoir and white smoke from exhaust. I re-checked the new* oil and it now looks creamy/milky. Should I buy some "Steal Seal" and try to seal my "leak" ?? or do you think I have damaged my engine beyond repair? I made a video for you to see my car in action... Head Gasket? Once again I truly appreciate all the research and time you invest in your videos. I hope you can guide me through the task at hand. john
Unfortunately, it seems like the head gasket has been breached by the over heat. The best way to deal with this is to rebuild the motor by pulling the head and installing another (or reconditioned one). If the head has never been pulled, it is likely that it can be salvaged. I recently pulled a head on a '98 S70 and rebuilt it with new valve stem seals, had it trued, and cleaned the seats by lapping the valves. It's a lot of work but you can do it yourself. The self cost is approximately $500 unless you need to replace timing belt parts and PCV system. Those parts add to the cost. The first thing to do would be to pull the head and have a shop check it to see if it is warped to bad to fix. I would say it can be saved since the car still starts. Have the shop vat clean it and make it true. Price should be between $45 and $65 for that service. They can also pressure test it but you can do that yourself.
Another great video with a lot of good info! My Volvo was running cool so I just replaced the thermostat and ECT sensor the other day. It gets nice and toasty now. ;)
My S70 98 according to the OBD2 scanner has a range about 165F-210F. While driving 165F (74c). The temperature gauge on the dashboard actually shows the difference. While in traffic or idling: around 216F (102c). It's about 51F (11c) degree difference. I have already replaced thermostat and sensor once (about 3 years ago). Back then the car was running really cold due to the thermostat being stuck. All parts OEM. Until recently the temperature gauge on the dashboard was always on 3pm. Interestingly the symptoms showed up after timing belt job. Water pump was replaced too btw. Unfortunately I had to outsource the job to the local shop, but I don't see them messing around with the thermostat housing??? At first I thought that the car needs to "burp" but 3 months later nothing changed. Coolant's level is ok. I have even replaced the coolant. What is the normal range of the temperature while driving and idling? Anyone checked with the OBD2 scanner?
Come to find, my 850 has actually had an aftermarket (FAE) temperature sensor in it for over 6 years now. It's worked fine ever since I can remember, so I installed the new one, and it works just how it should.
Furthermore Robert, you have helped me (an average mechanic) complete jobs like this that I am not used to completing. This is my first Volvo and there are quite a few differences between this and say a chevy camaro, so I thank you again for these videos!
Thanks for the great explanation! Very easy to follow and I appreciate the tip of draining the engine. I was just wondering your thoughts of adding food coloring to the distilled water on the final flush; do you think that would tell you when the coolant is fully circulated? I'm thinking of trying that on my xc70.
I don't think it's necessary. That water pump circulates the water pretty good. I'm sure the coolant is mixed and fully circulated within 2 minutes of idle.
I had to put a new radiator in my 95 yesterday and used the Zerex G-05 after flushing the system with 8 gals of distilled water. When i opened the G-05 i had to double check to make sure i didn't get screwed because it was clear, not the gold as your video shows. I assume they've changes something in the last couple years to the formula. Just a heads up.
Thank you for your excellent videos! I have a 2000 S70 Turbo, we are replacing the heater hoses on this weekend. They aren't leaking but found the the inlet hose in very poor shape when we were cleaning the PTC nipple area during a PCV system replacement. Any special considerations for the Turbo? Would you recommend changing hoses, then flushing with distilled water or cleaner, etc?) We have changed almost all the coolant hoses, but still have to change out the turbo coolant hose (hubby isn't interested in changing anything until it springs a leak--I'm so thankful to have your wise words to convince him to be proactive!)
I'm confused about the amount of coolant going back in after the flush. In the Haynes manual it doesn't state that coolant is still left in the block etc. Unless I misunderstood what you said...that about a gallon of water is still left inside the engine. So if I mix the Volvo coolant 50/50, then it will be 75% water and 25% coolant. So roughly 4 liters of water in the engine and 2 quarts of water with the Volvo mix and 2 qts of coolant. I think you said that you add around 1 gallon of coolant without mixing.So that would bring it to around a 50/50 mix. Where does a gallon of coolant stay in the engine after you drain the radiator and the block?
Who said that a gallon of water stays behind? Really doesn't matter. If the system holds about 2 gallons, and you pushed a lot of water through to rinse out the system, what is left is water. So, you add a gallon of 100% coolant and top it off with water and you should be so close to 50/50 that you car won't sue you. 🤷🏾♂️
@@RobertDIY Ok, I may be a little slow getting this. If as you say I flushed the system with water and I add 1 gallon of coolant, then there must be about a gallon of water left inside the internals of the engine etc.to get the 50/50 mix of close to 2 gallons. So when I do a complete drain(no flushing)... radiator and block, I will still have about a gallon of coolant mix left inside somewhere. Sought of like the auto trans drain and flush? I guess. Sorry for the extra questions. First time I'm doing this. Basically what I'm asking is, how much coolant is removed from the radiator and block on a simple drain without flushing?
@@RobertDIY So I did the drain and flush. So other viewers will know that on a 96 850 Turbo, I was only able to get 4.25 quarts drained including the drain on the block. I got less than 1/4 cup on the drain block. I was expecting a gush all over my face, but hardly anything came out. I had the car up on ramps as you did. So with a total capacity of 7.4 qts, 3 qts stayed inside. So now I see what you are saying, that after the flush, 3 qts will still be left inside and it will be all water. And then you add 100% coolant. I wonder if there is a way to pressure out the remaining fluid with a Motive pressure bleeder? Would all the fluid come out if I left the radiator drain valve open and pump up the expansion tank?
Hello Robert. Great vid as usual. I sucessfully changed out the oil and filter on the S70. I was thinking of giving this job a go BUT I think perhaps I should not because the coolant system was flushed less than 5000 miles ago with Volvo coolant along with new timing belt before it has been stored for almost 3 yrs. Would it be ok to leave this one alone before hitting the road at the end of the month?
+Dav777 be careful as antifreeze has a tendency to separate from water when it is a longtime still, leaving water in the top part of the engine I had to replace an engine that was filled with a -40 deg F mixture and that had been stored for 7 years because the head and the top part of the block were cracked by frost water. Now, If a have to store an engine for a longtime, I flush the mixture and I leave it empty
+Robert DIY it is a compromise, If you can store an engine in a heated and dry local, it is ideal, but in the north of USA and in canada, it is expensive to maintain such conditions in a stora only for one or a few engines If you take the precaution to plug all hose nipples with expansion rubber plugs, the remaining mixture ( a few ounces everywhere there is a cavity ) produces sufficient vapors to avoid rust starting inside the internal of block
my volvo c70 coolant cap busted open yesterday..first my check engine light came on, and then the check radiator light came on...and coolant was running all over the place...i went to autozone got a new cap, and put some coolant in the car...the car seems to be driving fine but the engine light and the check radiator light is still coming on. the car had been sitting for about a month and a half...any idea of what is wrong???? temp gage is norm and has been normal.
Awesome video!! Thanks for the help once again :) Just a few questions and If you cant get back to me thats alright! When I did this, I didnt have my car running during the flush part where we put the hose in the coolant tank and watched it come out the radiator. I still did this for like 15 minutes and then poured the distilled water in. Do you think if I I had it on it would have made a difference? Secondly, when I went to open the plug on the back of the block, nothing but drips came out. Is it possible that all of it already came out when I drained the radiator? Also how bad is it if distilled water isnt used in the coolant mixture and just regular tap water is used? thanks! Aric
not exactly. I followed every single step including changing the sensor and thermostat. I just never had the car running when I started to put the hose water in the reservoir until it came out clean through the radiator
I didnt have the car running when the thermostat was out because I didnt have a way to tell how hot the car was, and since im new to this, I thought it would best to keep it off
Why used distelled water? Sure tap water has corrosive bi products in it, however any water can be corrosive to certain materials found througout the cooling system. Let ne know what you guys think..tap water or distilled. Good video! Verry good information!
Never use tap water with OAT coolant system even if your flushing, minerals in the tap water will accelerate rust build/corrosion in the cooling system, always use Distilled water to flush out, they're cheap $0.99 per gallon at your local grocery store.
4 gallons of distill water, 2 gallon's to fill up the cooling system, let it run for 5 mins and follow it up with 2 gallons with the radiator petcock open, and completely drain cooling system before adding new coolant.
Hey Robert my 850 wagon runs a little hot ( the gauge reads at about 2 o'clock), will a coolant flush help cool the engine? Also what temp.thermostat should I use? Thanks for ur help!
Thanks for the video, it´s really helpful. I flushed my system with these instructions and it worked like a charm. btw, where´s that scan gauge is connected?
Hey Robert recently bought 2002 Volvo s40. And have been doing all the work myself. Did a thermostat change the other day and ever since I can hear boiling in the reservoir, but the car temp doesn't seem high. And suggestions?
I have a 03 xc90 and my backndoor wont open anymore. I cant get to my battery without climning threw the truck. Is this a fuse issue? Cant find answer in the manuel
The hole in the plastic isn't directly under the petcock, and it's been a little difficult to unscrew it for me; do you have any tips on how to reach it better? (This is my first time doing a flush, and I'm using a universal fit socket)
so for the s70 just put a gallon of coolant in, do i wait to put the water in too? if so should i fill it up to the top or is there a line that indicates when to stop? thanks so much, alex
Hey robert I have a 98 s70 t5 just drained my coolant changed my thermostat, resivour, some hoses that needed it and the sensor. Put coolant back in but couldn't get all back in or quite close to all of it even after a few days. No signs of overheat however it started leak in ng from both the coolant turbo hoses the tiny return one behind manifold and now the angled inlet coolant hose right on the turbo. But they never had issues before. Any idea to why they now the sudden leak? The return one actually stopped after a day and is fine now. (Still ordered it to change).any help is appreciated thanks
Hi, Robert. I have a 2001 S80, and I am wondering what your thoughts on chemical flushes are. I was thinking of using CRC Radiator Flush with DI water to clean the system via the following procedure: 1. Drain engine block and radiator. 2. Fill system with CRC and DI water. 3. Start engine with heater on high and run for ten minutes. 4. Drain and repeat as necessary. 5. Fill with 1:1 mix of coolant and DI water. 6. Bleed system. What are your thoughts on this?
I don't think it's a bad idea, but if you have NO evidence that anything is "dirty" in the system, I don't think it is necessary. Just important to get good fresh coolant in the system every 5 years/150,000 miles. I recently serviced a car that had some nasty sludge in the system, I flushed it with the chemical and drove it around for about 30 minutes. There was also some oil film in the cooling system.
Robert DIY Thanks for your response, Robert. My system isn't really all that dirty; I'm just not sure if the previous owner ever flushed it (I bought the car in 2012 with only 52,000 miles on it and it now has 71,000 on it). Do you think a simple flush with DI water would be a good idea (filling with DI water, running the engine with the heater on high, draining, repeating, then adding DI water and coolant)?
Yes that will be good. No need to turn the heat on high unless you want to have the climate control system to keep the temperature down. Coolant runs through the heater core all the time. Has the timing belt been replaced?
Robert DIY Hi Robert. Yes, I replaced the timing belt, tensioner, and idler pulley in February. I didn't replace the water pump, though, because it wasn't leaking at all. Unless it fails, I will replace the water pump at the next timing belt replacement.
Hey man your videos are great would you happen to have any videos on a 2006 xc90 thermostat and radiator hose replacement also how to drain the coolant from radiator thanks for your help
I have a 2000 Volvo S80 2.9. I have a small leak that's requiring me to top off my reservoir with coolant about every other day. Obviously this is alarming, but there isn't a constant leak and I'm thinking its the return feed from the radiator to the reservoir. Anything I should be looking for? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
There is not a "right" procedure. It will go out on it's own after you drive the car a cycle or two. Fill it as best you can, drive the car that day or the next day (the low coolant light might come on), the next morning top it off. I usually check the coolant level over the next several days to make sure everything is fine.
I'm working on my customer's 03 Volvo s40 1.9 turbo n it seems like there's a bunch of air in the system n the gauge will go all the way to red on the dash n the fans run non stop n the high speed fan will turn off if I wiggle the temp sensor and going to change that tomorrow but with it going all the way hot on the dash u think it's still ok to drive it for 20 to 40 miles to try n get the air bubbles out?.... my hand help temp laser gauge says the motor is at 185 on top hose n I've cooked on bottom hose... someone did put a thermostat on it and put a huge amount of rtv around the housing dk y but thinking about putting a new thermostat in it again scrap the rtv off when I go to put the temp sensor on... also after I turn the car off the low speed fan will stay on for 5 min after CST is shit off any suggestions?... love ur channel!
They probably overheated it and that destroyed the ECT. If the car is at temp and you can not ease the reservoir cap off without the coolant gushing out, it likely has a blown head gasket.
Great Robert, do you think I could change the coolant without taking the engine bolt off and just take the radiator bolt off to drain the coolant, I would flush with clean water until the water coming out is clear then put the radiator bolt back then fill with coolant?, thanks Robert.
I have had workers at O'Reilly's tell me that didn't carry it and another guy found it in the back. Not sure why they never put it out where customers can see it. Call them and tell them to order you a few bottles.
Mr. Robbert I have a 2005 volvo S80 2.9L has about 135thou KM the radiator.reservior has some brown gunk as the radiator fluid has always been topped with tap water as I live in the desert were the temperatures never go below 15deg Celcius, now I hav the car heating up going over the middle on the temp. gage causing.the fans to be really loud when working and when.I park the car I notice water leaking drasticly under beneath the car under the resevoir passenger side. I open the hood I hear water boiling in the resevoir and steam.coming out after the car fully cools down I.open the cap and its dry as it can get , I dont think past car owner ever used coolant or.done a flush but im worried that the gasket would or is damaged?
I just had my volvo 850 serviced and the mechanic said he replaced the thermostat. Oddly, now the coolant light is going on for a few minutes while I wait for the car to warm up before I drive it. That never happened before. Should I just add some more coolant? I'd take it back to the mechanic, but if I can do a quick fix myself, I'd rather. Thanks in advance for any help.
Yes add coolant (or distilled water) to the max line before you start the car in the morning. You should NEVER remove the bottle cap while the motor is hot. Use the same kind of coolant that they used. Most do not use the right stuff. Also, you should NOT start the car and let it warm up. Let it sit for about 30 seconds then drive it passively until the motor is at temperature (temp gauge). Cold weather car care and driving tips - Auto Information Series
I'm about to do a coolant flush on my 850. I got all the fluid, thermostat, and gasket. I was just wondering if it's necessary to change the temperature sensor as well. They can be a little pricey, and I'm going to be getting a brand new motor in a couple of years. Do you think I can get by until then without it.
Robert DIY I actually found an aftermarket one for a reasonable price at eEuroParts (same place I got those new wiper arms from). I figured anything new is better that an 18 year old sensor, but yeah I'm planning on doing a complete rebuild in a few years. I'm joining the Air Force very soon, so I'll have plenty of money saved up by then. I want to make the car like new. It's been with me since the day I was born, and I want it to last forever. Volvo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor: www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/7670/Engine-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-9186486/
These cars do NOT like after market sensors. I would not do it. As for the engine overhaul, if compression is good there is NO REASON to put yourself through that torture. These motors can go 500,000 miles when maintained well.
Robert DIY Oh man, I guess I'll just play it safe and leave it out :/ I just want a new motor with more power. Turbocharged for sure. Something I can have loads of fun with. I might just be at that age lol. I've also got a rear main seal leak, and it drips a little oil.
Hello Robert, Congratulations for all your DIY videos. I'm very sorry, but I'm French and I don't understand the verb you use to say not to tighten the drain plug (snuck down ?). Would you spell it for me, please? I'm about to change the drain plug which broke during last coolant flush, as I tightened it. I did it with a lot of attention, but it broke like a glass. Thanking you in anticipation. Regards.
here is my situation. my sister's volvo 2000 V70 XC is having a thirsty and is drinking up the coolant. have a bad leak but fixed that cause it was the over fill cap, replace that, now fill up the system with coolant 50/50 and it drinks it low level sensor comes on, drove it out temp is ok then shots up to over heating.. pull over then let it cool, and walk it home. We replace the thermostat but not the temp sensor. could that cause the spikes and disapearing of coolant or could it be a crack head or block. I would like to try to flush the system. what do you suggest. we put in 2 gals. of coolant in the last two days.
that is what I thought all along. that is a lot of work to get to the head. we change the timing belt water pump etc and replace the seals on the oil pump cause that was leaking oil. Changed the cam seals. did find a wire harness with a broken wire which caused it to be slightly out of time.. got that fix. No Check engines lights.
Driving a car with a coolant leak is NOT good. I call it "Motor Roulette". You need to find the leak. At 13 years old, it may be the radiator. You can get some leak detection fluid to add into the coolant system. Then you drive the car for a hour or so and check it for leaks with a black light and yellow goggles.
Hey Robert, I've got a gurgling sound that comes through the aircon/behind dash that's only apparent when engine is running. Air in the cooling system? Water pump? I hear the sound on the left side of the engine bay as if its coming from a part that the serpentine belt drives. Any thoughts?
Kyle Lewis The serpentine belt is on the right side of the car, front of the motor, US passenger side. If there is a bad sound while the motor is running, you need to figure out what it is. Without a recording, there is NO WAY for me to know. Pull the serpentine belt off, start the car, and see if the noise is still there, if so, it is likely a part in the timing belt path which would be very good news for you to shut the car down immediately and replace the defective part before starting the car again. When was the last timing belt service with ALL PARTS REPLACED?
Sorry yes it is right side of engine w/ the belt. I was talking looking at the car head on. My mistake. I last replaced the serpentine belt last year. I shimmed the AC clutch last year as well. I haven't replaced the alternator, timing belt, or water pump since I've owned the car which is 2009. I burped the cooling system. Noise is still there.
Timing belt and parts haven't been replaced since I've owned so at least 2009. 175K. I think it's the water pump. I'm going to try and remove the belt tomorrow.
yea man about that fan issue, my 2000 s70 had a loose bolt on the ground and the fan actually didnt work until i tightened it up, same thing with the starter, a mechanic tried to tell me it was the alternator....
+Robert DIY my step-dad slash Mechanic for western, I'm in school to be a mechanic and it's a reason why I bought the car for $500 the lady said that the alternator was bad and the transferee needed a rebuild, I knew alternator was good cause she said she just needed a jump so it would not "START"(key word here), the problems really were that it just needs a new shift solenoid and loose screw on starter it was mine lol
Robert , on my 1999 V70 the block draincock is in a similar place but it T's off from a pipe going down to what I think is oil the cooler (nailed on the back of the sump). Love your Vids.
Is it possible ta take The radiator tap (cold engine) and just drain and then put away The termostat and run The engine with water filling all The Time, then when just water in system stop The engine and wait till cooldown then take The block tap and empty That + radiater ? Sorry for my bad english but hope you understand what i mean.
Think i understand now. If I empty The block and radiator i can then fill with water. Start engine till worktemprature then empty again and do this over and over till clean , this way i dont need to remove the termostate or anything else but The radiator tap and motor tap. And offcourse The top of The water tank.. did i get this right?
Im so sorry for writing alot hehe but this is verry new to me and i do wana tre it for myself. If I have problem geting under The car to get to The engine tap (i cant lift The car) is there another way to get to it or is there another way to get to That water inside The motor?
Miffokorv You can drive the car on to a street curb or some brick or other item less than the 60 cm. Not sure what to tell you about draining and filling over what is in the video. If you simply drain and fill the radiator/reservoir a few times, that should be sufficient.
Robert DIY thanks alot. i will try and get something to drive upp to and get that fixed. and i thank you alot for this video! i will now go and buy some coolantwater :D gona go to my girlfriends parents and borrow a hoose to fill water when cleaning the system. thanks again for this video and take care ! thank you for this channel ! cheers from sweden !
Hello I have a question I had a coolant leak on my 2000 s70 and I found that the coolant reservoir tank was cracked so this morning I replaced the tank and connected the two hoses and the wire and topped it off with coolant and theres no more leak but for some reason my coolant light is constantly on. Can you please help me I'm not sure if I accidentally sorted the sensor wire or if it takes some time driving it to get the coolant circulated or what and I cant find any info on this problem. Please let me know and thanks in advance.
@@RobertDIY possibly the reservoir is brand new thought but I used the old sensor that you stick through the bottom is there any way to check if the float is stuck after theres already coolant in the tank?
Gurgling noise on acceleration coming from behind the glove box from the heater core area, just replaced intake manifold. 99 Ford Crown Vic Any ideas??
Is it normal that my coolant level is a little above the min line but when idling the coolant level rises above max level. And i just flushed the coolant
Daniel they have placed where u can take a sample of ur tranny fluid to check if its contaminated with antifreeze.My advice would be to get an external transmission cooler so u never have to worry about that cross contamination.That's what I did on my 04 C70 droptop cuz my volvo mechanic said its a known problem with Volvos.
Yeh I think it might cost to much to fix up as parts dear in Australia plus labour from mechanics too as hard to find cheap volvo repairer in Brisbane Australia..
Just order one of them strips online to see if its contaminated and then you can get an external tranny cooler for less than $100.They're easy to hook up, did mine in a few minutes.
Pablo Amigo Auto parts stores sell a vacuum / fill pump. Other than that, you need to fill it the best you can, drive the car about 10 miles, let it cool down, then top it off.
+Robert DIY I'm trying to flush my system because I accidentally mixed coolants and I have been looking underneath the front of the car and do not see any drain plug or let alone anything to unscrew to drain the radiator
+Jack Scrilla if your radiator does not have a drain you will have to disconnect the lower radiator hose or drain the system from the back passenger side of the block.
+Robert DIY so I would disconnect the hose drain what comes out reconnect the hose run water through it while the car is on and heater on and then disconnect hose again
Man, love your stuff, everything , but the 4 gallons of distilled to clean the tap water out is OCD.. that just just not make sense from a chemistry angle, at all.
For best results, HOAT is designed for Volvos and most European cars,Eg Zerex G-05, G-48,Pentosin NF,Beck/Arnley Euro Concentrate. These coolants are specially formulated for European cooling systems since they are phosphate-free,low silicate.
