Turn on the subtitles for more informations. This is a alcohol burner I made using copper tube, cotton string and tin cans. Works very well as a burner and kinda well as stove. 🔥🔥🔥 be careful when handling alcohol and fire 🔥🔥🔥
One thing I forgot to explain in the video is that the base of the reservoir MUST BE ON THE SAME LEVEL AS THE TOP OF THE SPIRAL to have enough flow for a large flame.
Great project but watching the soldering was painful! Touching the iron for only a second at a time simply won't heat the joint enough, resulting in lumpy cold solder joints which will eventually leak. Keep the iron at the joint and let the solder wet and flow into the tin can. Keeping the iron for as long as it takes won't hurt anything. I would use a 100W iron to guarantee the temperature stays hot as the can and copper tubing easily conduct the heat away from the area to be soldered.
Although in is pinch, these are clever, and could save your life in the time of need. I will recommend that two "back-flow" devices be installed on each leg. There is adjustable PSI that can be adjusted down to (0.1 PSI) or get the preset check valve units... These types of stoves love to back flow causing a gassed off explosion and often times leaving folks with horrible burns, and in some cases, left dead. The reason for such, is in the event that one leg/tube gets plugged from foreign materials, and the other leg/tube is still feeding the gassed off fuel oil and if you ever hear the flame roar go full throttle and double and triple in sound and size, you have about a minute to stop the flame, before the wicking action of the remaining leg/tube being gassed off internally causing a chain reaction of what is remaining and will splatter the remain fuel oil out of the holding vessel lid or no lid, now can ignite all of that... A glass of water on stand by to pour on the flame to put the flame out and to cool the leg/tube will prevent this run away... Good luck, I enjoyed the video.
An excellent instructive video without any superfluous talking. BUT it you need to specify your fuel. People may want to try it with water - petrol, parrafin, kerosene, or alcohol - and the results could be dangerous.
The solder may not have sealed the joint, because it's clear that the soldering iron was primarily heating the solder, not the joint. Always heat the metal until the solder flows and wets it without it touching the soldering iron.
Pretty cool but bad job at soldering. You have to heat the solderpoint until the solder tucks capilary between the jar and the Copperpipe. This is not soldered, more glued and breaks easily.
I've never thought of using the output flame the boil the fuel, resulting in a jet. That's a good bit of ingenuity, I personally thought you were making a steampunk oil candle lol
Thank you. I appreciate you getting right to the video without all of the talking. Many video makers out there take F O R E V E R to get to the point of the video. Great video and very easy to follow along.
Of all I've seen, this burner works the best for my situation. Very nice. Your added foot note was my first question, answered. One thing I noticed is that if starting with a coiled tube, it is important to completely straighten it before attempting these bends. My first attempt is quite sloppy compared to yours but it works great. The only drawback being that if fuel is still in the can after a burn, it will drip from the hole in the loop, So I either have to empty it or store it at a slant. My second attempt was a tad tougher as the tubing was thinner and not willing to bend without kinking. So I went the sand route and put the wick in later...just not all the way around the loop. It worked much better. Thanks for this technique. It's a good one.
Muito aqueci água e até cozinhei em fogareiro a álcool caseiro de latinha de cerveja,esse que o senhor fez ficou muito bom e baita pressão,parabéns pela ideia e atitude de compartilhar seu conhecimento
