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He's a great teacher. He acknowledges when things are not quite right, and pulls the connecter off the wire. Thanks for such a detailed lesson on how to do things correctly.
9:02 Actaully really happy to see that failure, because it shows the importance of the tug test. Even if a connection looks cherry, you gotta give it more than a weak pull. You just can never know the strength unless it's properly tested. Cheers for that!
@Robert depends on the connector. Manufactures give guidelines on this, down to the exact length of exposed wire you are supposed to leave in order to reduce strain risk - Taz.
Started installing a Holley Terminator X in a 5.0l Mustang(and redoing a LOT of chassis wiring as it was a total hack job), and I've gotta say that automotive wiring as a whole is a LOOOOOT more simple than I realized - but trying to figure out which crimpers I need, which size crimp needs to be used for what pins/terminals, etc. has without a doubt been the most frustrating part of all of this. The industry seriously needs to improve on the standardization of this stuff, it's pretty ridiculous that the best options are either spending hundreds of dollars on an overpriced manufacturer spec tool or trial & error with generic tools(that's a bit of an oversimplification, but none the less).
Thank you for the professional response to the tug test failure. You have talked about the trial and error method and you put it on full display. Failure is a part of learning and getting better, thank you.
802 garage caught! you know this is the place we find REAL fabricators.... or at least those who esteem to be real fabricators hahaha. (It's wankerwankle btw)
I'm grateful to have found this channel. It's helped me to build a new, custom dash harness for my Volvo 240. The only complaint i have is that I didn't find it sooner! I'm looking forward to checking out a paid lesson for sure. Thanks.
I have found it useful, particularly with aviation wire (Tefzel) to use flush cutters to nip off a small amount of each of the crimp ears before crimping to the insulation. It seems these ears are often sized for the thicker insulation on automotive wire and are just too long for Tefzel. Nipping off 1/64 to 1/32 of an inch can make a big difference. Obviously nip a little more when at the smaller end of the terminal’s wire range and a little less when at the larger end of the range.
What kind of breathing exercises do you recommend for when you realize too late that you forgot to put a seal or heat shrink on at the beginning. Again. Lol. I've done that too many times...
@@zacperston2429 lol that's my standard, but I always get a stern talk from the big boss after. It's a small shop and the customer area is within earshot 😆
That was good. I’m an HD mech and wondered if basic wiring for race cars was different from factory stuff. So far no. I went to trade school and learnt this already. I always hated trying to get the wire and barrel connector out of the plastic plug on the harness. The key to this stuff is to have the proper tools, especially for repairs.
There is a tool for that it looks like a punch but it’s a tube that slides over the pin and pushes the lock wings in and you can still use it in the connected
Thank you very much. A master tutorial. Great audio with your clear speech and excellent presentation, including the failure demo was equally important 👍👍
In the 1970's I built relay panels for early CNC machines...crimped 100's or even 1,000's every day...you cannot justify buying $150 crimpers for each wire size...unless you want the job done right.
@@garyzzzryh.kn.bohrman195 mention the two items?? Did you watch a totally different video then everyone else? He couldn't have been any more descriptive of the items an how they very in quality and sizes for the same pin. I think if you were actually paying attention to the content in the video instead of critiquing the lighting and quality when the numbers on the plyers are clear as day then you might have seen the quality in the information given. People these days are too worried about the kind of ink a message is written in and not the message itself.
most ratcheting crimp tools have a release in case you accidentally crimp something that prevents you from squeezing all the way to the release point. good ones will also have adjustable crimp force. that said, i still prefer a manual tool like yours for that style as i have to do crimping in tough sports where space and/or wire length is at a premium. i like to be able to pinch the strain relief section with my thumb and finger while making the conductor crimp so i know everything has stayed in the right place. sometime i don't even have the luxury of being able to see what i'm doing. ratcheting crimpers tend to have combination dies that do both at one preventing said pinching technique. plus they're just bulkier. nice to have both though. if i was standing at a bench doing crimps by the dozen i'd go for ratcheting.
Speaking of closed barrel contacts, here are some from my memory. ITT Cannon D-style connectors as well as KPC series. Burndy ( -> FC ) "Bantam". Deutsch military and aerospace connectors -- something like a 61-pin type.
I usually start the oe insulation crimp by hand and overlap the two fingers (as in the first example) as the expensive factory tool that does both crimps at the same time makes a dogs breakfast of them every time. I can't say I've tried using the W-crimp on some generic pliers for insulation though
It is actually already a significant accomplishment if you figure out precisely what you have on your car. Then buy the right terminals, housings, wires as well as appropriate crimping tools for not too much money. All this before you are crimping any terminals.
Love all the info on these smaller sensor wiring terminals, but does HPA have any resources for best practices when crimping larger terminals, such as battery lugs? I'm seeing lots of different methods of getting the job done, but was wondering if there's a rigorously tested ideal geometry - I mean, like from a "piston" crimped lug (hydro or hammered) with the crimping die pressing in to a round support, or a hexagonal shape from either hydraulic crimpers or bolt-cutter-style crimper, or just a simple set of rectangular dies, or wedge-shaped die in one side.... Also, I don't think I've seen mention of working with wire ferrules? I think for those it might be more simple - use a 4-die or 6-die crimper - but they can also be crimped like the aforementioned lugs. I guess I should probably be asking this on the forums, lol...
Crimping the conductor in Econoseal 070 and MultiLock 070 terminals is exactly the same process. Both types of terminals are almost identical, except that Econoseal have a larger and differently shaped section for 'O' crimping the wire seal, and anti-rotation ribs on the sides of the terminal.
Just a little helpful hint After the first crimp turn the connector 15 degrees and give the first a good little squeeze never had a failure after that extra step
Hey Jonathan, great question, in a nutshell they are more versatile and consistent. This has popped up a few times on the HPA forum, but an experienced member has put together a really good answer here I think you will get value from: www.hpacademy.com/forum/efi-wiring-fundamentals/show/deutsch-dt-closed-vs-open-barrel-terminal Hope that helps answer your question! - Taz.
thank you, I ordered the general crimping tool but none of the dies fit the superseal 1.0 round part of the crimp. I guess it must be the molex one you have linked. I bought the Link official one for £100 in the UK and it doesnt have the right size either.
The tool that you recommended "TOOL AID 18700 kit in your online article", if you have a look at the kit what's included, the red crimper included in the kit which is also tool aid 18600, it is no where near the same crimper shown in the video. 18600 didn't have any round die like what you are using which is the A and B. Inaccurate information in that article.
Yes you are correct, that is my personal mistake and thank you so much for pointing that out so that I can get it fixed before Zac the tutor tells me that he's both angry and disappointed. The correct tool can be found here: www.milspecwiring.com/16-30-AWG-OPEN-BARREL-CRIMP-TOOL_p_405.html Of course you don't have to use that supplier if you wish to source it elsewhere. NOTE: That toolaid kit is still AWESOME and relevant though, it gives you DTM, DT and DTP crimp tools relatively cheaply. Sometimes those other two tools are useful, but not super often. Thanks again for mentioning this! It would have been much easier to simply keep your thoughts to yourself which would have been a shame - Taz.
If you look at sites like Element14 the recommended tool is usually on the same page. You can then reference that part number to find a range of options for that type of tool, or possibly a kit like ToolAid offer for some common tooling option. Example for your contact: nz.element14.com/amp-te-connectivity/173681-1/crimp-contact-socket-22-20awg/dp/2060315 That isn't the only wiring supply website that does this. Hope that helps! - Taz.
It is a size, you can measure it and there will be a comparison chart where applicable when using the likes of Tefzel. TXL is the general 'go-to' beyond motorsport specific applications with a bit of budget behind them. All is covered in this course and more: www.hpacademy.com/courses/wiring-fundamentals/? - Taz.
What specific part of the video are you struggling to see? I can give you another resource if you that is preventing you from understanding what is being explained - Taz.
'We'? What was your direct contribution to the moon missions 😅 But yes, crimping is something many people do incorrectly. I'm glad you're not one of those people, but if you were, at least you would have found a comprehensive guide to help you out and get you started in the right direction. We're not all born knowing it all 😉 - Taz.
Decent information. however, showing details of a black tool in front of a black background in dim lighting takes an awful lot away from the usefulness of the demonstration. Put some light on the subject...
Yes a little tricky! The course material is a bit more refined compared to these ones we do live but we generally use a white background (just a bit of paper) for some shots like this these days. You live and learn! - Taz.
Don't you think he would've used the smaller one the first time if he knew that was the right size? Did you even pay attention? Did you miss the part where he said "there is no universal chart that says what size die is for what size crimp"? You should probably re-watch this from the beginning...
@@RyTrapp0 have you ever even worked with wiring? It's standard practice to hit it once and then move to a smaller notch and hit it again. Keep in mind this is a DEMONSTRATION. In the real world you'll know it's tight enough and the pull is just to confirm. I MIGHT have had ONE terminal actually pull off, in my entire life. It's not rocket science and you don't need to over complicate it
Good tutorial ruined by poor lighting. Try not using the dark countertop as a background, maybe a yellow or light blue silicon sheet would have worked.
AWG = AMERICAN Wire Gauge I have to get a bit of a laugh when I see a Kiwi talking about using it... ;) Even as an American who has no problem using US Customary, Metric, or even Imperial units, I have to say that the definition / formula for AWG is a bit strange... There's a good Wiki article one it... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
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