Your channel is awesome! You are very patient and thorough with your callers. I have a 48 volt EZ GO with SIX bad eight volt batteries. The previous owner let all batteries dry and die. So I decided to do a four, 12 volt conversion with new solenoid and charging plug/wires. I also want to replace the controller. I am going to research the wiring configuration to make certain I connect everything correctly. Many thanks. You are greatly appreciated.
I have a 2012 Yamaha Model YDREX2 It has a Moric JW2 H6510-01-00. The cart did not run forward or reverse nor did the reverse buzzer sound when in reverse. I removed the buzzr and powered it directly from the batteries and it functioned correctly. I reinstalled and checked for continuity from the 26 pin plug to the buzzer and found it showed ) Ohms of resistance. I checked continuity from fwd/rev switch to the 26 pin plug and found them to read appropriately which led me to blame the controller. No new controllers are available so I purchased a used controller presumably it was working as designed and was merely removed for a speed mode upgrade. Installation on my cart seemed to solve the problem until I measured speed which was merely 10 MPH after operating for a couple hundred yards. I have measured voltage from the controller side of the solenoid and it measures 50.7 volts before wheel rotation and drops to 45 volts when initially moving and as the cart slows to 10 MPH the voltage remains steady at 48.6 volts. I have removed an visually examined the motor and sanded the commutator which has not improved performance. I have changed the speed sensor and TPS without any improvement. I suspect the used controller has a fault. Your thoughts?
Thanks for watching, Dennis! Our techs first thoughts: speed sensor or TPS. If those are changed second thought would have been battery but there are good readings and the voltage drop does not look bad at all. The only thing that changed that actually made a difference was the controller, possibly it was governed for course driving and may need reset, this is a common issue with used controllers. If more help is needed, consider a free consult with our diagnostic team here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/
I, of course, agree that the 36v with the charger not coming on may source to the battery bank not meeting the minimum voltage threshold but in my experience the Powerwise 2 charger has a high fail rate with the relay on the board. The relay is soldered to the pc board. The good news is that the board is constructed with two sections that are connected by three screws. The relay side of the board is available seperately and costs around $40 , meaning you dont need to pay for an entire board just because the simple relay failed. Its a very simple repair.... the trick is pigeonholing the source of your charger's failure to turn on to being that of its board relay. 🤓
Thanks for watching, Dale! We'll need some info on the cart and some follow up questions. You can get a free diagnosis appt with our techs for a video call here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/ or get in touch directly. Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
Thanks for watching! You may want to start with a continuity test on the F/R switch. If you need more help, reach out directly! Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
We'll have a number of follow up questions regarding that issue. You can get an appt for a video call diagnosis here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/ or get in touch directly at Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
Thanks for watching, Ray! You may want to have a dealership test out that motor or consider an appt with our tech team here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/ or get in touch directly at Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
Hi I have a 2004 club car precedent gas and the battery cable that goes to the solenoid got hot and melted I replaced with 6 gauge now there’s another wire connected to the battery is melting and won’t start was wondering if you could help thanks
Thanks for watching, Jimmy. You might start by replacing the bad cables, then start the cart in neutral and check battery voltage for something crazy. Should rise to the mid 14 volt range with cart running. Get in touch if you need more help or diagnosis. Video appt here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/ or direct at Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
Hello. If regen has stopped working then it is very likely something in the programming of the controller has changed. Might need to locate an ECAR or ICON dealer to ask about reading the controller settings.
@@GolfCartGarage thank you for the advice, I have scheduled a service with the dealers agent. I was concerned that it was going to be the motor or controller.
I just bought a new controller to replace my old one. The difference between both is the new one is programmable and it has a J5 connector on it. Do I need to connect any wires to J5 ?
Thanks for watching, Emile! I would assume that the J5 or USB c or any serial connection on the controller is the programming interface only to be used during programming. You can get in touch with our techs at Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934 if you have more questions or need help!
hello 2 months ago I bought a dc-ac 5kw 600a navitas kit for my yamaha g29 and I have been dealing with a malfunction for 2 weeks. Although I wrote to Navitasa many times, they did not help me, can you please help me?
Thanks for watching! We recommend a virtual appt with our tech team here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/ there will be follow up questions and a level of tech best done in real time, as opposed to the comment section. You can also set up an appt at Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
Has there been upgrade work done to the electric powertrain? If not, could be broken resistor in the chain of resistors. In other words, that could cause no middle speeds, only wide open. You can get a free diagnosis appointment here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/ or contact directly at Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
Thanks for watching, Jeffery! If it jerks and slows down, there may be a bad cell in one (or more) battery. We see this a lot. We recommend checking the batteries with a volt meter and then a load test. We have a walkthrough on that here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NsUkLCTWSnQ.html&pp=ygUeR29sZiBDYXJ0IEdhcmFnZSBwb3dlciB0ZXN0aW5n Let us know if you need more help: Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
I have a 1982 Club car DS It was acting up just clicking and going no where so i changed the master solenoid and it ran OK but i then changer all 5 solenoids now when i push the pedal it jerks and takes off like a bat out of hell what would cause that reverse seems to be fine the batteries are only 6 months old could it be one of the new solenoids are bad?
Thanks for watching, Bobby! On the 5 solenoid system, there are also 5 micro switches that activate each solenoid. Lots of things can go wrong in this system... maybe a bad micro or two or three? We recommend a free consult with our diagnostic techs here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/ or reach our techs directly at Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
@GolfCartGarage my ez-go txt48 runs good for a little while , then acts like batteries are weak. Each battery has 8.1 to 8.3. Total charge is 50.3. Checked with load and it holds charge well. Replaced the pedal sensor and speed sensor. Any idea??😅
Thanks for watching, Dale! We recommend a free diagnostic appointment with our techs here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/ or alternatively, you can reach our techs directly at Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
I have a 36v 2010 ezgo , I've tested the batteries under a load and they dropped down to 5.9 going full speed. But my cart loses power in 20 to 30 minutes at 70% . As you can imagine while I'm driving it around I can see the percentage dropping rapidly within the 1st minute it drops to 99%. Also I have a charging percentage monitor on the cart and it goes to 100% so it seems like the batteries are charged fully But die rapidly. What could be wrong??
That type of load test only tell you if a battery is dropping out immediately. Most likely there's one battery that is dropping completely out after a few minutes, as sometimes they can have what's called "Phantom Voltage" at your resting reading when there's a bad cell. Let us know if you need more help, Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
@@GolfCartGarage OKI rode the cart around till almost it's dropping point which is around 70 But I wrote until 76% . I found one battery that was all the way down to 3.9 or lower so I'm assuming that's the bad 1. If I change that 1 will it fix the problem? I didn't think 1 battery would have that huge of an effect.
That should likely solve the issue. Even 1 cell inside 1 battery can drop and stop the cart from performing correctly or moving at all, so... yes, it can be a huge effect. Your cart is only as strong as its weakest battery.
Thanks for watching, Dale! We recommend a consult with our tech team, you can get an appointment here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/ Or get in touch directly Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
Thanks for watching, Kyle! What you're probably dealing with is known as "Wide Open Throttle". We've not seen a controller cause that issue, it is more likely your "ITS" also called "Inductive Throttle Sensor". If you reach out to our specialists at Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934, we can help find you the correct replacement part.
Thanks for watching, PyroJoe! We'd recommend a free consult with our tech team here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/ or get in touch directly at Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
Thanks for watching! Thermal cutback can occur when the controller gets too hot to protect the powertrain from overheating. If you have concerns on this issue, get in touch! Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
Thanks for watching! You can sign up for our newsletter for a 5% savings on your first order at the bottom of our home page here: www.golfcartgarage.com/ Or use the code "WELCOME5%" at checkout. If you have any issues or need help, just get in touch! Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
Hello. While searching for a wiring diagram for an EZ-GO three wheeler you just need to know if your cart is a resistor system or a controller cart. Most 3 wheelers are resistor but there are a couple of years that they used a controller.
Thanks for watching, Russel! This Live episode has ended, but we'll forward your question to Tim for next time. He may have some follow up questions for you, too. You can get a free diagnosis appointment here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/ or direct contact at Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
My ezgo cart needed new batteries so I replaced all 6, 36 volt system series. I play 18 holes of golf and the cart starts losing power like the batteries are dying. When I check the batteries as a pack it shows 36 + volts and over 6 volts individually. symptoms when it starts losing power are...very little power going up hills, vibration in the motor, The battery gauge shows batteries at 3/4. Like I said it runs fast and good until I get to the 15th or 16th hole and then it starts losing power. I dont think it is the batteries cause they still show 36 volts. Could this be a problem with the controller?
Hello. Yes the problem is either the batteries or the controller getting too hot. If the batteries are still at a good voltage above 36 then I would say controller.
Thanks for watching, Tammy! We'll have some follow up questions on this. You can get an appt for a video call diagnosis with our tech team here: www.golfcartgarage.com/gearheads-on-demand/ Or reach out directly at Support@GolfCartGarage.com or (800) 401-2934
