Coupla things today include TRUSPEED controller with MODS! Testing a DIY 3D printed tire truer courtesy of Johnnie Hobby, Burned out motors. @slotr @MPSlotCar @johnniehobby Rubber Grips www.amazon.com/dp/B09PDNP476?...
@atftbone You see, this is why I encourage comments on my videos. That is an excellent idea and I'll be checking it out. Thanks again for watching and commenting 🤙🏼
Good to see the truer is working out for you. A couple notes: - The o-ring from the motor is intended to go to the larger part of the idler wheel, and subsequently the smaller part of the idler for the o-ring that goes up to the axle). That reduces the speed of the axle (especially for those that don't have a variable power supply so it doesn't spin too fast) and also increases the torque so it won't bog down the motor as much. That's why the o-ring in original specs didn't fit. - For the axle pullies, they may have been printed with a low infill (20% is common). If so, printing at 80% infill will make them stronger. Or, instead of 4-40 grub screws, try 3mm as they are a slightly smaller diameter. - Because it's plastic, slight deformation can happen which is probably why the axle isn't perfectly level with the sanding bed. We've noticed the same issue so we've just been doing one tire at a time so we don't grind one more than the other. For version 2.0 we have added an adjustment so that it can be leveled. - Sorry about the F1 axle not fitting. I don't have any F1 cars so didn't think to try them out on the machine. If you have calipers, take a measurement between the wheels on that axle and let me know what it is and I can add the capability for F1 in the next version. Thanks. Cheers.
@johnniehobby Thanks for actually responding to my video, it provides some really valuable information. I feel a little foolish now not having reviewed your assembly instructions a year after I first view the video 😆 Anyway, I have implemented some of your helpful tips and immediately turned the drive pulley around. I had to do a little trimming of the swing arm as the thickness of the o-ring I was using actually came in contact with the swing arm because the o-ring didn't fit flush with the pulley. Maybe 3/16 is just a little too thick for the drive pulley o-ring? I'm still experimenting with my NSR formula 1 cars that have 2 mm axles and the bearings are set in the chassis. I'm not sure they'll fit the swing arm even if I can get them out of the chassis which I expect I should be able to do. And hopefully the axle pulley will tighten down on the smaller axle. Thanks for clearing things up, I'm sure those who read this will get a better understanding of whether or not this tire truer will actually work for them. It certainly works for me, but there are a few small hurdles that need to be jumped. The Carrera formula 1 car rear axle is 32 mm with a center to center bushing width of 28 mm so the overall width of the swing arm only needs to be a few millimeters (3or4?) narrower to accommodate that axle. Thanks for your input! Ted @BP Slotracing
If you have trouble altering your grip to operate the lane change button, operate it with the thumb of your other hand. Just keep your other hand close to the top of the controller and the button will be in easy reach of your other thumb. Running the correct engineers tap through the holes to create the threads should help to stop the splitting of the pulleys.
No trouble altering my grip. It just takes a little bit of practice and muscle memory. I did notice that if I stabilize the top of the controller with my left hand that I could easily change my grip and access the lane change button. Thanks for watching and you're for your suggestion 🤙🏼
Yes some rubber feet have been ordered and are on the way! I'll also be doing some measuring and tweaking to make sure that the pads are the same thickness and the wheel height is identical so I'm not truing one tire smaller than the other 😆. Thanks for your comment 🤙🏼
