They're now selling the CR-10 SE at Microcenter for $289. I was planning on getting the KE, but decided $30 was worth giving it a shot. So far not disappointed.
I am looking for a new printer and am in the same boat... the CR-10 SE is down to $269 and 10% off that if you use Microcenter's card. The KE is $229 + 10% off for using the microcenter card. you still loving the CR-10 SE? @BenKonosky @NathanBuildsRobots. Leaning towards the CR-10 SE as it seems to be the more "pro" model unit, but the reviews on the KE seem pretty solid too. I am still on a Ender3 V1 and just looking for something more plug and play. Tired of leveling beds and monkeying with settings to get the right quality.
I just bought the CR10-SE. I am absolutely satisfied, even though I paid $350 for it. For around $260ish, its a bang for your buck. Some reviews actually, describe the CR-10 SE as the better of them three.
I ended up splurging and getting the BambuLabs A1 combo. It was like $518 out the door with the discounts. The multi color printing is expensive but it’s really nice.
I love those reviews without any sort of sugar coating. Let's be honest... All printers have some flaws, weak points or challenges. You are helping us choosing what we're willing to deal with 👌
Honestly you Really do Complain Alot. Its a Fan it Works it cant generate the same airflow as a 120mm PC fan so the only way is high rpm mini fans that make alot of noise just like the Bambu & the K1. I think you might have Noise OCD issues lol
this is what i said on a reddit post where creality was asking for input and in broken english essentially they said “we hear your point” since i went in on how the printers should just be named by size or machine instead of them all having different names and sizings
Agree - My heavily modded original CR-10 is still quietly, happily and reliably printing PLA and PETG. That 300 x 300 bed seems to cover a majority of my larger printing needs. I've been looking at the K1 max or others around that bed size (at least 300 x 300) as (a) potential replacement(s) but they have to mature a bit before I retire my trusty old CR-10.
Right now they are $359 and the value is absolutely there. The beefier y axis motor, linear rails, and larger (yes louder) part cooling makes all the difference. This is actually the printer I have been waiting for. It has all the upgrades I do to all my enders in my print farm for reliability and function. When you print over 5k hours per machine like I do you will want linear rails more for the longevity than the performance. I will happily pay $150 extra to not have to deal with installing the upgrades and just have a printer I can open the box and be running in less than 30 minutes. This is a winner IMO.
@scottmasa7774 It's a great printer. Only thing pissing me off is I can't figure how to use cura or orca slicer with it. Keeps throwing an error if I try. I have to look at the gcode. Creality slicer suuuuucks.
I’m amazed how obsessed people are with noise? I can’t even begin to understand why that matters? Are ALL FDM hobbyists in apartments?!?😂 it’s a machine! It makes noise!
I will never understand Chinese manufacturing. Everything is changed randomly. But seldom for something better, just for something subtly different. It looks like a lot of work for nothing. Makes zero sense.
Yeah, I'm not sure why they are releasing 4 new 220x220 print volume printers this quarter... Just make 1 or 2 REALLY GOOD options instead of spamming out slight variations.
The reason for the strange naming is so they can trick people into buying it by thinking it is bigger. The size is only mentioned right at the end of the advert in small print.
Creality's Chaotic Evil naming scheme makes me really appreciate Elegoo's FDM naming scheme... got a few variants in their Neptune series, but you usually have a rough idea of where they fall. With Creality's FDM printers, though? Not a chance unless you're really invested in that ecosystem already. On that note, been running my Neptune 4 for a few weeks now and pleased as a pig-in-mud with it. POM wheels are fine, Klipper with Fluidd is great and getting some great prints out of the thing. Getting away from a glass bed on the Ender 3v2 and onto a flexible PEI sheet is also night and day. And now there's a Neptune 4 Plus coming? Hoping to see some linear rail action on those Neptune FDM printers :)
Neptunes are very low-cost machines. Linear rails might be a thing if they come out with a Neptune 4 Pro Max? Now it's starting to sound like an iphone.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Following Elegoo's naming scheme that'd be just the Neptune 4 Max, I think :) But yes, would love to see linear rails on those big format printers. At that point you're not as cost-sensitive, anyway. Got some idea of how many $$ the addition of linear rails cost over metal rails like on the Neptune 4 Pro? If metal rails are worth ~$30 over POM wheels, perhaps linear rails are a $100-150 premium over cheap POM wheels?
@@NathanBuildsRobots Have you seen any tests comparing SG15 rails to linear rails? The Kobra 2 Max is a better deal in my opinion, their Kobra 2 Max is the same specs as the Kobra 2 Pro other than size.
The Neptune 4 Plus and Max went on sale at the Elegoo site on 23SEP23. I bought a Neptune 4 Pro (steel rollers on steel rail) and I'm waiting on the Neptune 4 Pro Max (420x420x480 with all steel motion control). I agree that acetyl V rollers work well on smaller and slower printers. I ran an SV01 very heavily for the past two years without even adjusting the rollers, but I'm concerned that a bed that's 4X as heavy that's moving twice as fast will cause the acetyl rollers to deform under load (print quality issues) and probably wear faster (reliability issues). I prefer all steel motion control on a large fast printer. It took three weeks for my Neptune 4 Pro to arrive, and by then I was busy so it mostly sat for another week, but it's now assembled and on the WiFi network. I've been running it quite a bit the last two days and I'm loving it. The added speed is nice but I don't run it that fast. I bought the printer for better print quality and Klipper control convenience and it has not disappointed. Klipper via WiFi is great for uploading and printing a file. No more fiddling with microSD cards, upside down, under the Y axis.
I haven’t had the pleasure of playing with the CR 10 SE, but I do have two V3 SE printers that were quite loud in my opinion. I found that putting a 4010 hot end fan and 5015 part cooling made it much quieter and performs beautifully
I've got the V3 SE and absolutely love it, got klipper installed and it runs like a dream, pressure advance and input shaping really let you do higher speeds on larger prints, smaller prints however need more cooling, I think with a few mods on the SE it might be closer to the KE. With the price difference being so small however I don't think many people will go down this route.
A lot of times those bad layer lines are not due to the printer itself but to the spool holder. When I replaced my bowden enders with direct drive (and klipper) it was almost a necessity to find spool holders with bearings that roll super smoothly. The tugging on the direct drive extruder can cause a significant lift on the layer with non bearing spool holders. This is a good place to look if you have calibrated flow and still see the issue.
Two little things. 1- I appreciated when a reviewer print the benchy that the manufacturer send on the usb card /stick. That gives us an opinion of how the machine is supposed to perform as per the manufacturer standards. 2- if you happened to review the (hold my breath) Ender 3 V3 KE... a comparaison with the Elegoo Neptune 4 would be helpful to make a buying decision. Love your work.
I own a CR-10 V3 and this is not a CR-10! - Naming makes no sense - Pricing makes no sense - Print quality looks awful, I don't even understand whats going on here.
PLEASE AVOID THIS BRAND AT ALL COSTS-UK. If you'll want to return your printer there is a really big chance they will either refuse to do that or you'll wait for a refund until your hair turns gray. Their customer service is actually someone that sends a 1-2 sentence email with no signature, name or actual explanation or desire to help. If you'll reply to the email, good luck to you! You'll get another sentence out of them in another 48-72 hours
I’ve been dealing with the same thing. Printer literally broke a month after ownership and I’ve been dealing with them since. Plus the design of there nozzle is prone to MAJOR clogs and heat fluctuations. My clog caused everything to break. Before this the printer was amazing
Very disappointed in this review ! Despite the very annoying fan noise you did not immediately proceed to dismantle the head assy and graft on it a big ass fan, like on the 5M... 😂😂😂
I can see that you've made the same cable management mistake that I've made at first. You should put the cable to the toolhead in those two little hooks on top of the adapter, not that big one at the bottom.
AnkerMake has the best auto-leveling IMO. It heats the bed and nozzle and touches the actual nozzle to the bed gently and measures the height. All the other methods are terrible, Prusa has their over-engineered pinda and super-pinda which are garbage. CR-touch is also terrible, what if your nozzles are slightly different lengths and a cold heat bed is not going to measure correctly. Just use the ACTUAL NOZZLE, that’s the most accurate method.
The review is fair, but only the out of the box experience is tested. The print quality can be improved like others are saying. Maybe the firmware wasn't so good, just like when they released the K1. The CR10-SE has better hardware the Ender V3 KE version. So it would be great to see a new review with a deep dive to improve the printing with the CR10-SE.
Well, all I can say, that my CR-10 SE gives me much better print quality out of the box than what You showed to us. Maybe You didn't notice printing profiles (they have things like type of material or printing quality).
lol, I think the Sprite Extruder Tension Release Arm should of stayed on the left side instead of the Right Why Because everything is always made for Right handed People & Left handed Persons use Both sides of our Brains not just one Side like Right handed people bahahahahahahahha
So would you recommend the CR 10 SE at $380 in terms of print quality or should we go with the Ender line for $180? Is the print quality the same on the Ender line?
It has slightly worse quality than the Enders from what I've seen, which is a shocker. Not sure what is. causing it, maybe some low tolerance linear rails? In any case, in its current state, the Ender series and Neptune series present better value
Why do you print 4 things at the same time? You make stringing, more retraction and there's no way to check individual times: how long does it take for a benchy? Also why to you measure noise on the first layer? The part fan only kicks in later...
A good printer should not care how many parts are being printed at a time. Stay tuned for the PRUSA MK4 review I'm working on. Same print test, but zero issues with consistency/stringing when switching between parts. I measure on first layer and with part cooling fan on, so you get an idea of what sound levels are like at various settings/different times of the print. Sometimes I turn the fan off for large prints that don't have many overhangs, or when doing prints out of PETG or other higher temp filaments. This makes parts stronger, and reduces fan noise.
@@NathanBuildsRobots A benchmark is a known quantity that is run on different platforms to compare result, if you change how it is run by printing 4 at the time what's the point of it? People want to know how much time it takes to print ONE benchy. The overhangs bench is supposed to work if the time to deploy a layer is the same as other maschine, if you print 4 things it take much more time. You can't print fast without cooling the material, it is the same error you did in on other video about volcanos and big nozzles.
WHY is this a CR-10? With that Build Volume? Why release This AND the New Enders 3's? They have close to the same build volume? It should have been 300x300x400 like all the other reg CR-10. GREAT REVIEW!
Thank you Alberto. I'm glad you agree. It is a very confusing product. Creality needs to be OK with scrapping some ideas and focusing energy into a solid lineup of must-have printers. Ender 3 V3 SE definitely stands out, and K1 is a good start. But they need more innovation and quality engineering.
I've seen conflicting reports. I've heard this is like a boxless K1, both faster and higher quality than the KE. I got the KE and the quality is a bit wanting and Creality's default settings don't seem to offer the speed under the hood. I'm hoping to find a good KE support forum because I honestly had higher hopes.
On my Ender 5 Plus machines I had to change out the wheel that hits the homing switch about every 12 month has it causes a line in the print every rotation, I ended up printing mud guards (fenders) for them, I lose a couple of millimetres print space but rather that than spoil a print and have to change the wheel I have considered linear rails but I cant afford the downtime as they are production machines, I have a third machine still boxed as a contingency machine so I think I will build that and take one at a time out for Mercury conversion.
I find it hilarious that you are searching for something good to say about the CR 10 SE. When its so obvious to so many that they have lost the edge they used to have. The field of Creality products must be cut back to what will be less confusing to the consumer. Creality is the best at looking at others' advancement and then copying them so don't release a product like CR 10 SE unless it performs at the same level or above the one you are copying the under performing results is just embarrassing. I will point out an ad for the Max which clearly shows exstream banding of the part that was printed and they proudly are showing this off. Bambu Labs has changed the face of 3D printing and if your going to compete in this market you have to ask yourself does my product meet or exceed the quality prints of these products if not whats the point of releasing anything.
Having spoken to the Creality CEO, development, and marketing team, they are trying to hit different price points and build specific products for specific customers. But the thing is, people just want a printer that is cheap, and that works, and preferably prints fast and reliably. EVERYONE WANTS THE SAME THING. No need to develop 10 different products for 10 different supposed customers. Try to make 1 outstanding product that meets the needs of 7/10 customer profiles. Then maybe make a few more to fill out the niche needs of the other 3/10.
@@NathanBuildsRobots They really only need to hit 4 markets. Build the best overall printer you can for the $200, $500, $800, $1200 markets and sell accessories on the side (like mutli-color). If they did that, they could keep things easy on everyone (including themselves) and focus on improving the overall product value (input mapping is a great one).
I first thought it is kinda good premium printer in somewhat reasonable price, but I discovered flashforge 5M non pro version is only $399.. man this price competition.. this is hilarious
being all at the same price here in brasil, should I get a cr10se, a ender v3 KE or an elegoo neptune 4 pro? Which one prints better and more reliably?
Elegoo kicked Crapality out of the game with the Neptune 3 and 4 line up. Buying Crapality's printers now is just a waste pf money (I have 2 crapalitys after selling 10 of them to buy neptune 3 maxes and it really kicked crapality out).
The belt path on the X-axis seems completely wrong, belts should be parallel, I guess the belt tension will be different when the carriage is at the sides and in the middle
As far as I can tell, they haven’t released the source code for the K1 as they only posted useless binaries for their major modifications to Klipper. We need the actual code to be able to use it and we already those anyway. So, we aren’t any further ahead besides easier root access.
so impressed with the hardware i bought two. Also don't forget if you want you can add their nebula camera to get AI assistance and this model can also use the LIDAR module too. It attaches next to the BT on tool head. On your noise whining, NO it doesn't need smaller fans. You want fast and quality you have to have cooling, period. The tool head has a 1200rpm blower, it is NOT a typcial baby fan. This is so you can print those 19min or better benchy. In reality it isn't that loud and is almost silent compared to a K1. Just put a creality enclosure over it and your ears will be happy.
For PLA is use 2.5 for 1st layer, 210C and 60C for the bed. To fine tune stringing, work with temperature first. Also it does do PA and Flow out of the box you need to enable in the Slicer. CrealityPrint has all of the calibration tools in a drop down to get the best prints. Also your note on value, wrong and the models are not same. On price, my CR-10 SE I got $289 each and the KE is at $260. CR-10 SE is the king of prints out of this lineup.
This should be called the ender 3 CR. This same printer but large format 300 x 300 should be offered as the CR-10 V4 or whatever revision they were on. Price it well below the large format core xy machines and you would actually have something filling a gap in the market.
What's not to love about yet another Klipper bedslinger machine? The naming is confusing, for sure. CR 10s were always bigger than the 3 series. Other than that, if you don't like it out of the box, mod it to your heart's content, as usual.
Creality's naming is horrendous. An airgapped network is a good idea on these. The print quality leaves a lot to be desired. The extrusion is so inconsistent. It doesn't look like a periodic problem caused by eccentricity of the extruder gears.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I had to read that a couple times to realize you're joking. That's mildly horrifying. (At least I hope you are. With Creality it's hard to tell)
Lastly Why do a Time lapse of a Printer than can print at up to 500mms of even a lower 300mms second. we never got to see the really speed and noise level at full speed in my opinion that was a huge editing mistake. Also you do realise we have No idea what settings you applied in the Creality Slicer and I guarantee if the settings were tweak properly with just a few 2minute tweaks the layers would of perfect Why well as you didnt show your Slicing settings then well never know. Also with a 0.4mm nozzle you cant expect writing as fine as 0.10 to come out perfect at 0.24-0.20 layer lines
Not everything what is shiny is the best :) I agree it does not have the slick shape of Bambu printers but quality of the prints and heating chamber is amazing. And for functional prints and various materials, it is working perfect.
The linear rail looks good. I bet the CR 10 SE is capable of better print quality with some tweaks. If so, shame on Creality for shipping it as soon as it works instead of waiting until it works well. Maybe they were busy tweaking their flagship K1 series, although particularly with PETG, I'm a fan of upgraded Klipper bed slingers. I like the idea of larger part cooling fans on the print head instead of a curtain fan, even though it increases mass and that lowers X acceleration. Two larger (quieter) fans on the print head would be good. I'm late to Klipper but I'm loving it. It's a game changer. I love the Fluidd web based interface for uploading prints and managing/monitoring the 3D printer. I can't see going back to Marlin, even with input shaping. It would be great if loading filament would offer the option to perform a simple pressure advance calibration, or just have it as a separate utility on the printer. Print 20 stripes at different pressure advance settings, or maybe 20 in X and 20 in Y, and allow the user to select the best. I'm finding on faster printers that pressure advance changes with different filament types and it seems there is only one place in the config file for that parameter? Ditto for Klipper's extruder rotation calibration (volumetric extrusion coefficient). It'd be great if the printer walked us through a simple calibration to prevent under/over extrusion.
Also Silk PLA is Awesome WHY? Because it Pushes you to be better at becoming more experienced and better at fine tuning your slicing settings to perfect prints. Lets be honest people don't like Silk PLA because it shows how bad their G.Code slicing expertise and settings showing all the imperfections from not just the printer but the lack of expertise in and knowledge of computing settings.
Almost forget. You never mention the importance of applying the included grease to the various components. Lube is very important to linear rail setups and only takes 5min to do. They include this and should last a long time. You have to butter up the rails and the screws with just a dab, thats it. Hmmmm maybe make a difference on the prints you did and point out some minor defects. Well Friction is bad, very bad on these so a dab will do ya and walla your prints might of been better. Don't blame the printer for something you over looked.
Oh that keyboard was horrendous on my cr-10 Se I got a couple days ago. They really have to fix that issue cause typing in my WiFi password was a nightmare. Everything else on this machine was a dream, other than maybe that there are no printer profiles yet in orca or cura slicer…
The problem is our brains are wired to expect certain keys to be in certain places when you see QWERTY If it was just ABC that would work too. But it was a weird combo.
I have the Mk4 - it's printing right now. The print quality difference is night and day. Is it worth the extra 2X MSRP? It depends on who you are. But honestly I'd get the Ender 3 V3 KE instead of this thing because it has the same feature set but probably better print quality and lower price. Might have a slightly lower top speed.
I looked at the v2 neo before settling on the s1 in february as a much more upgraded platform to work from, im happy with it now i use the mriscoc firmware as it makes leveling a breeze. This is what pisses me off about creality as instead of making one printer better and making modules/packages/kits for it to upgrade it they just come out with a new model with one or two changes, the linear rail is nice, the touch screen is bad. Think i;ll stick to modding the absoloute tits off of my s1 until i kill it or get bored then buy into resin printers and eventually get a corexy, brilliant video as always Nathan, keep em coming bro.
My guess is that the load cell is more accurate but as a result it requires more processing power than the machine has to do the bed level mesh properly. They could also have some worries about the brass nozzle being damaged by it?
or the plate. KAMP has "feathering" that you can install into real klipper to fix this, but basically, if the nozzle always pushes against the same part of the bed surface, your bed coating will eventually wear out in those little points.
I think I figured it out: To do loadcell-based ABL, you have to do a 3-5 minute nozzle priming, wiping, and cooling procedure. By relying on the CR-touch for everyday printing, you are eliminating that 5 mins of setup for every print, since you can just do Z-homing instantly instead of having to wait for the nozzle cleaning operation. It really speeds things up actually, so I'm going to go ahead and call this a smart move. Wish they were better at explaining, and telling the story of their design, because there is som good decision making at play (as well as some bad decision making)
What’s the point of buying this over the KE? It looks like the only differences are the LED light and an aesthetically different design. Aren’t these like $100 more than the KE though?
Hahahaha The funny thing is I just returned my Ender 3 s1 pro becuase nothing would stick to the bed and bought this one haha. Did u have any problems with adhesion on this printer?
Looking at Elegoo variants, but they dont seem to have a 0,6 noozle. And I use that on both my printers as I print many small functional parts. So prabably E3V3KE ( sounds like a Star Wars droide )
I had to return my ke, caught an amzn sale last night for $340 on this one. Pretty good value. I want to get the flsun v400, but my kids wanted to stick with this platform. My kids do a lot of printing. I am not a fan of the bed leveling process. Takes a while….
@@chevy4x466 With de CR-10 SE, you'll never touch on bed leveling. The thing is the real meaning of plug and play. When i first use mine, it auto calibrate itself on the first use, and never again... and every single one of more than 50 prints, ALL of then came out with perfect first layer.
14:55 Using the Load cell is detrimental because to properly run a mesh, the nozzle needs to be hot. Also consider the implications of touching off glass, or taking a piece of hot brass and touching it to a piece of steel thousands of times. (How does the saying go? "Even a tiny woodpecker can take down a mighty oak, one peck at a time") Yes, it could deform the nozzle opening.
It’s not a glass bed. Load cell is the best way, at least the AnkerMake way, it’s slower and requires a hot bed and hot nozzle, but the accuracy is perfect.
Great vid and observations. The ender 3 bed size is optimal for "everyday" prints and then the (real) CR-10 300 x 300 really is a good "up-size" and covers most larger prints for me. After that you move to "gargantuan" printers. I have a heavily modded Chiron (400 x 400) with a .8 nozzle on a wheeled cart that spends more time in the storage room than printing but when I need it, I need it and would not be without it. I've been watching the Comgrow T500 and would like to see a review from you. If it looks reasonable, I may wait awhile until I can get a used or refurb as an upgrade from the Chiron for mainly the larger bed.
I'm sorry for asking but, can you please list all the mods, if you can, you put on the Chiron? I have one aswell and i really want to mod it to make it better and more reliable. I also have a Creality Sonic Pad to Klipperise the Chiron but first i want to mod it.
I continue to pop error codes directly out of the box. I was able to print the test boat just fine. After two small test prints off of thingiverse, I can't print anything else. I get "nozzle heating not as expected" and "Key:3000 unknown exception" I've had this model for two weeks. It will pass the self tests, but continues to pop the Key:3000 nozzle heating not as expected" This is my first printer and I'm at a loss. The creality website has 4 error codes, and nothing related to this issue. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yeah I know, but it's extra funny when you're also using it in a 3d printing timelapse. Make a parody of Auroa Tech!! Nathan Tech!!
8 месяцев назад
nowadays in my country prices are Ender 3 V3 KE == CR10Se and elegoo neptune 4 pro is 100usd cheeper. I will recommend elegoo neptune 4 pro to my friend to get introduced with the hobby. is it a good call ? cr10se vs neptune 4 pro
I bought one of these Ender 3, I mean little CR-10 SEs and ended up rooting it. After rooting it and using it for a while I really like this Ender I mean little CR-10 SE. After you use the printer a while the part cooling fan does quite down a bit I believe.
No offense, but it seems like they are putting lipstick on a pig to maintain a budget price-point. To be fair, it appears there are compromises to be made with any printer. Creality does make it easy to get-into-the-game, but it seems the satisfaction of investment would wear out quickly. Thanks for confirming the suspicion that we all tend to have in the back of our minds.
$289 at MicroCenter. I don't think you can beat this printer's performance at that price point. Oddly Nathan remarks that it might print better at slower speeds, and he has complete control of that.
Hello! I want to replace my ender 3 v2 Neo with ender 3 v3 Se or Ke maybe.. Someone else said cr-10 se or S1 pro are better. Any recommendations on which sould i buy?
The first thing to do on it (or I guess all printers) is to balance the fans using small pieces of electrical tape. My printer was much quieter and had way less vibration afterwards. 2nd step would be to root it. Creality crippled it by making it too automated.
