I bricked my CR-10 Pro V2 trying to update the firmware from Creality's website. The printer was stuck on the loading screen and wouldn't go to the main screen. I followed all the steps of your video. I think the main thing was using the firmware packet you have and xloader made all the difference. This was the only thing that fixed it! Thank you!!!
Hi G W, Thank you for commenting. You're most welcome, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. I ran into the same problem as you when trying to update the firmware. Most of the resource files or software didn't match the instructions of the videos or didn't work for me. Best of luck with your mods!
I cant thank you enough for this video. I was extremely frustrated for weeks trying to fix this printer and searched all over YT. This is by far the simplest and best explanation out there. Helped so much thank you!
Hello Livmor and Prosper, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. I've resolved just about every issue with this printer so if there is something that you might have questions about just ask so I can help you make it super reliable. I have several videos on this printer my latest one is the relocation of the filament sensor. When you look at that one you're going to see how it's changed since this video. Best of luck with your build!
I cannot begin to tell you how much gratitude i have right now, i have had a printer i have been fighting with for the last month and a half trying o fix my printer issue. I stumbled on your video over Christmas break and it's a Christmas miracle. Thank you!!!! easy follow as we have the same printer and you just helped me keep my $450 investment from becoming a parts printer.
Hello DGCosplay, Thank you for commenting and kind comments. I hear you, you would think that for a flagship printer the CR10S Pro V2 would have more community support. If you run into any questions about it just ask, I think I've had to deal with just about every issue with it. All I do these days is start a print and walk away. I haven't had to do anything to the hotend over the last 6 months. Happy New Year!
I don't typically comment on videos like this but with all my frustrations over 2 years of 3D printing I knew I needed to update my firmware for PID tuning and also a better version of Marlin. This video walks you through everything you need to know and a little more for the CR 10S Pro V2. Not scarry at all to do, except for when all the new screens pop up for the first time while flashing. *Power off and then remove SD card* Side note, My printer came with a loose wire for the y axis stop and after taking the bottom off to inspect the white Z+ connection I found that other 3 wire plug going to D11 had the yellow wire loose as well. Thank you Sir for the detailed and real time walkthrough.
Hello Lemming1035, Thank you for your kind comments. Yeah, the fast icon/character flashes during the display update doesn't look promising. Great job finding those loose connections. Those would have manifest as either dead components or worse yet intermittent problems. When you are ready for more check out one of latest CR10S Pro V2 videos where I completely swap out the 8-bit V2.4 board for Creality's 4.2.7 silent board and Ender 3 V2 HD display. Now I can run Miguel's Professional Firmware or Klipper with all the latest Marlin feature like linear advance and input shaping. Best of luck with your mods!
Hello friend, thank you for commenting and encouragement. You're most welcome, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your upgrades :)
Hi Victor, I rarely (really VERY rarely) comment publicly on anything. I own a CR-10S Pro V2 with Z axis sync (after and as you recommended, with X and Y linear rails, and more recently a Micro Swiss NG extruder). These wildly exciting upgrades led me to read and see your posts: I am forced to say GREAT work sir, and thank you! Your comments rate among the very best; thank you Victor. Peter Kelly (Ned, Australia).
Hello Peter, Thank you for your encouragement. I'm glad you found value in the videos for your viewing time. The CR10S Pro V2 is an extremely capable printer once given some love. I've thought about linear rails and would like to see your setup. Please link some pictures or email me vbared@gmail.com. Best of luck with your mods!
Thank you so much for this. I was overwhelmed trying to figure out exactly how to update the firmware and adjust for the BL touch, but this explained it perfectly!
Hello Travis, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. The wiring difference you mentioned is with the probe? Are you running the capacitive probe or BL Touch? Best of luck with your 3D printer.
Received my CR10S Pro v2 the other day and I nearly tossed the thing out of frustration. “Upgrading from an Ender 3 I thought this would be a walk in the park. How wrong I was. It is crazy how few videos and lack of support there are for this machine. After repeatedly crashing my Extruder into my bed and 12 hours of constant swearing I finally got this thing to print with your help and a fresh install of the firmware. Thank you for making this, your thorough explanation and calm attitude. You are the man 🤘 Also for those that complain about bed adhesion being too strong, trying pouring a reasonable amount of 90% Isopropyl alcohol at the base after the print has cooled. 10mins. Later the print will come off with a spatula no problem. Thank you again! 🙏
Hello Douglas, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you got your CR10S Pro V2 working. I agree with you that for being one of Creality's flagship and easiest to setup models it should have easy to find support. Thank you for the alcohol tip. I trashed my bed trying to remove some PETG printed models from it. A 1/8 inch thick Garolite sheet cut to size in place of the stock build plate is a high performance and budget friendly upgrade that I did on my Ender 3 V2. I bought a WhamBam for the CR10S Pro V2 (which works great) but expensive before finding that Garolite works just as good. Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared Very cool! Had no idea that was a thing. Was honestly looking at the Wham Ban system since it seems to get a lot of attention. Better get some Garolite before people start to notice 😎 Thank you for the tip 🙏
Dude! If your video helps me as much as I think it will, I will drive to your town and buy you dinner. 😆 I have been struggling with this for a month straight at the beginning of the year and ultimately gave up. Everything available was garbage! So, I will update later but I have a feeling this is what I needed. So thank you!! 🙏
Hi Csenior10, Thank you for commenting and kind words. You would think that a flagship printer would have wider support from the community. So I completely understand your frustration with it. It can be made to work extremely well and trouble free. Let me know what other challenges you come across, I'd be happy to help point you to the solutions that have worked for me. best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared thank you so much. I really appreciate you offering further assistance. I agree. You’d think there would be more support. As popular as these printers are, I’m blown away on how little info there is. I’m pretty new to 3D printing and it was very discouraging to find such poor documentation regarding this model or even this series. I’ve even tried contacting a few different companies like Tiny Machines. I’ve emailed them several times with no response. I even offered to pay them to fix it for me. If I remember correctly, they’re located in Houston as am I so it wouldn’t even be hard to get my machine to them. The printer has just been collecting dust for the past few months and I decided to search again today to see if someone had possibly made a tutorial for dummies ( me) lol. Your video was one of the first ones to pop up. Seeing it has rekindled my excitement to get it up and going. So again, thank you for the video and a special thank you for offering further help! You rock!!
@@vbared I was successful at getting it installed. Thanks to the terrible instructions in the passed, I bricked the original board. But I was able to get the new board completed last night thanks to your video. Any idea how to unbrick the board?
@@csenior10 Hello Csenior10, Bravo at getting your machine up and running again. I'm glad the video helped you. Unfortunately I don't have any experience with unbricking a 3D printer motherboard. Let me know if you have other videos about the CR10S Pro V2 you would like me to make to help the community along. Best of luck with your projects!
Thanks For the great Videos. I have been fighting this for the last two week! My next step is your Direct Drive set up. I was a little hesitant on the it, but you made this so easy. Again Thank!!!
Hello Sabbotslinger, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Hit me up with any questions you might have. Best of luck with your mods!
Hello Ignacio, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you were able to breath new life into your CR10S Pro V2. This printer can be amazing with the right kind of love. Best of luck with your prints!
Hi CarObsessed, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Great job following along and fixing your issue. Best of luck with your projects!
What an absolutely spot-on video. Really easy to understand and follow, it's very useful for the newbie and yet a great quick-reference guide for those with more experience under their belts. I have the original 10s-Pro, and the first thing I did was swap out the capacitance probe for the inductive one and haven't looked back since. I've had an E3D V6 plus a version 3.1 BL-Touch sat on my desk for around a couple of years. Hell, I've even modified the new boot screen with my name and logo, I've just never found the great need to do the swap. I don't know why, I've upgraded or modded everything else in sight, lol. I have no excuse to not get this job done now, and this video has made for an excellent refresher. Thanks for the up.👍 Looking through your other videos, there seems to be lots of other interesting content to go through. *Subbed.
Hi Loneman, Thànk you for commenting, subscribing, and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. When I was searching for this info most of it was either not clear enough for me or the flash file directories changed. After many days of scouring the forums I came across the right puzzle pieces to complete this firmware upgrade. It's amazing to me that for being such a flagship printer the support is seems to be so low. If you run into any questions, just ask. I'm still learning but would happily share what I know in the hopes of saving others from getting frustrated. Best of luck with your mods!
Hello 3BeePrinting, Thank you for commenting, kind words, and awesome tip. I didn't try plugging in the cable with the printer off, mine was on when I plugged it in and flashed it so I guess it can be done both ways. It does make sense for it to work with the printer off as well since the USB cable voltage supplied by the PC powers up the printer board and display. Best of luck with your mods!
Thanks, I have the original CR-10s Pro and would like to upgrade it to the V2. So, I hope I can get this work after I install a BL-Touch. Thanks a bunch for the video and references...
Hello SpinStar1956, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. If the main board is the same and you're adding a BL-Touch then everything should work since the firmware and guide was made for it. Best of luck with your upgrade.
@@vbared Well thank you for returning the comment so quickly. Seeing your motherboard gave me a lot of hope because I noticed that it’s dated is 2018 so I’m thinking that it should run pretty smoothly. It’ll be a while before I can get a BL touch. I don’t know if you can do the upgrade with just the original capacity of sensor or not that would be interesting to find out…
@@SpinStar1956 This guide should help you complete the upgrade from capacitive touch to BL-Touch www.ifixit.com/Guide/CR-10S+Pro+BL+Touch+Install/128510
Thanks so much for this video and walking through, step by step. It is possibly the only CR-10S Pro V2 video out there, specific to the model. Do you have the Firmware Source Files by chance, or did you just download the .hex file? If you have the source, is there any chance you could put them into the Google Drive package? Cheers and keep up the great work! Thank you again
Hello Jaime, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. The link below should be in the video description as well. Flash, .STL file - drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=11gGWekgOe8mDNrXnRidldwCpqSnnlR5E Best of luck with your mods!
Thanks a lot for the video 💪 I have some issues with the filament change function when the filament runs out… It first pushes 400mm forward and then when it starts movinh to the last point of the print it pulls out the entire filament. Espeacially for the direct drive it would be nice to push only 8cm of filament an then resume the print
Hello Maurice, Thank you for commenting. I'll have to see if i can figure out how to compile firmware to address this issue. The Tiny Machines version is already compiled so I have no way to change that. I did run out of filament during a print with a direct drive extruder and it did push out a lot of filament but in my case it picked up where it left off without issue. I'll need to test this some more. Best of luck with your projects!
Yeah, man, I agree with you. The CR10S Pro V2 could have been an awesome printer out of the box had Creality used a different control board and made the touch display code available. I replaced my stock board with a Creality 4.2.7 flashed it with Klipper and ditched the display altogether since Klipper can be controlled using a web interface. If I need to be next to the printer my smart phone works great with the web interface.
Hi. Thanks for the video. There are other similar videos quite clear for me, however your tutorial is clearer than some others. BUT... it seems there are no enough informations about what to do if for any reason the firmware upgrade goes wrong. You also don't consider the eventuality... have you at least an idea what would you do in that case?
Hello Giuseppe, Thank you for commenting and concern about the flash going wrong. If you are searching for ways to improve the performance of your printer then the stock firmware is no longer meeting your needs. If something does go wrong and you mess up the control board then it would need to be replaced. The stock board is the limiting performance factor for this printer. Check out my video linked below for the way I upgraded it so I could benefit from faster print speeds and improved print quality. I'm currently running Klipper firmware on my CR10S Pro V2 that I installed a Creality 4.2.7 control board in. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hXZ3UPy67gc.html
Gonna be doing tbis to my cr 10s pro v2 this is my first printer so this hopefully will go well lol i just check the inside of my machine and everything matches your machine now its just the matter of getting the direct drive and getting the firmware installed haha
Hello Mike, Thank you for commenting. This was a fun mod for me and I learned a lot about 3D printing during the process. Finding a good way to get the filament sensor working again is the only thing missing for me to complete the upgrade. I'll be doing it soon but in the meantime I don't have a good solution so you'll need to come up with something if the feature is important to you. Best of luck with your mod!
@@vbared your video was great so i don't think ill have issues running it and sounds good im in the process of printing everything and ordering the parts now ill keep yea updated and thanks again on this vid been wanting to upgrade my printer to direct and you made it look way easier
Hello Anders, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. It seems that this flagship printer didn't receive the support it deserves and like you I had a heck of a time finding clear instructions on how to upgrade the firmware without having to compile my own. If you have any questions about it, just ask so I can do my best to help. Best of luck with your projects!
hello Victor. Thank you for your video ! Can you make a new updated video with the new version and files ? I am not sure which DWIN_SET to use for the 7.4.6 firmware version. Thanks !
Hello Andrei, Thank you for commenting. Try this link to most up to date instructions with files to flashing the CR10S Pro V2 firmware. docs.google.com/document/d/1cuYWpDw8aPuLEXus3uNsgDIEAKEze3Z9-hIDMWcqMK8/edit?usp=sharing
Hello The Squirrel, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Once you are ready for the next level of firmware check out my video on upgrading from the stock limited 8bit control board to the 32bit 512k 4.2.7 silent control board and color HD display. This upgrade allows you to load Miguel's Professional Firmware and later makes switching to Klipper a breeze. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hXZ3UPy67gc.html Best of luck with your mods.
Hello Karzo, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. The link to the files you need is below in case the description link still gives trouble. I've updated it in the description. Please check it if you can and let me know if it's working for you. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1WWe6Dxa98CAzoT_xAR23uBEAqW8BP7vJ Best of luck to you and Merry Christmas!
Hi, I know I'm a bit late on this video, but some of the links you show in the video are gone, do you have updated links or it's not possible to install this firmware anymore? I really liked your guide 😢
Hello friend, thank you for commenting, encouragement and reporting the broken links. Below is the Tiny Machines 3D firmware for the CR10S Pro V2. Best of luck with your mods :) docs.google.com/document/d/1cuYWpDw8aPuLEXus3uNsgDIEAKEze3Z9-hIDMWcqMK8/edit?usp=drivesdk
@@vbared thanks a lot, I managed to complete the modification to my cr10s pro V2 and it works perfectly 😁 I'll put the dragonfly hotend and I'll make myself some modification for a direct drive, thank you for the tutorial, pid tuning and bltouch offsets were crucial for my project, thanks again!😁👋
Hello Gabriel, Thank you for commenting and kind words. The info on flashing this printer was extremely fragmented and confusing. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time in mine.
Hello Guy, Thank you for commenting. The PID tuning seems wonky because the display doesn't show the correct status. The controls will appear to be locked up but they aren't it's just the PID tune is in progress. Follow these instructions - To PID tune the hotend first set the temperature you're going to print at, Start the PID tune the display will show finished but it's still running. Wait about 10 minutes then press "Store Settings". To PID tune the bed: Set the bed temperature, Start the PID tune for the bed (the display will say finished but it's not), wait 10 minutes, and store the settings. That's it your PIDs are tuned.
Hello RDCWP, Thank you for commenting and kind words. Yes, I had a nasty blowout not long ago and it mucked up my high temp thermistor and 50 watt heater cartridge. So for now I'm back on stock ones. I'll have to dig to find out. Best of luck with your build!
Thanks again for the amazing tutorial Vids. Just got a quick question regarding Extruder E-steps Calibration. I have tiny machines installed on my CR-10S Pro V2 but can not accesse it through pronterface to calibrate the E-steps. Do you perhaps have a work around? It would be awesome if you can do a tutorial on the tiny machine menu settings! Thanks again.
Hello Luann, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I took a quick video linked below on how to get to those setting in the Tiny Machines firmware. Just make sure to store the setting by pressing the little EPROM icon when finished so the next time you start the machine they'll be there. photos.app.goo.gl/VVrTmUXxrYYBBdxdA Best of luck with your projects!
Hi Michael, Thank you for commenting. I'm fairly new to 3D printing and learning everyday. I'll have to look into UBL. Any good resources you can link for me to get up to speed? Thank you!
Great video! My Pro V2, the bed currently does not stop heating up. I have replaced the thermistor to no change. is my last step to replace the mainboard, or do you think flashing the firmware may help fix? mainboards are hard to come by for this printer from my searches
Hi Nick, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I haven't had to deal with your issue myself, but I would try to flash the firmware (potentially free fix) before spending money on a mainboard. Have double checked to make sure the end of the new bed thermistor plug measures a value when checked with a multimeter or check the mainboard values? See the video below on what values you should get from the Creality mainboard to help you troubleshoot. Also below is the link to Tiny Machines 3D, these guys do a lot of work on CR10S Pro v2 3D printers, would have more experience than I, and replacement parts if needed. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7wxkfzKuXFU.html www.tinymachines3d.com/products/creality-direct-replacement-thermistor Best of luck with your repair!
Hi, my cr10s pro will not install the new firmware in the screen but the x-loader seemed to work. I also cant print due to the printer not checking the bed level at the start. The nozzle cools down and I get a message shutting down the machine saying thermal runaway. Any ideas? Do I need to update my g-code files? I am using creality slicer
Hello DIY Channel, Thank you for commenting. Was everything working with your printer prior to flashing the Tiny Machines firmware? If so you might want to download the stock firmware from Creality and flash it back to make sure everything is still working. The screen flash is important otherwise you won't have the icon package for the advanced menu options. Did you manually level the bed after the flash before trying to print?
@@DIYChannelSteve Unfortunately, there might be some difference between your machine and mine that is keeping it from working for you. Trying a different firmware is the right solution. Best of luck with your projects!
Hello TheRoadRoamer, Thank you for commenting. I would think so providing the control boards are the same but haven't confirmed it. This guide contains links to the filed. docs.google.com/document/d/1cuYWpDw8aPuLEXus3uNsgDIEAKEze3Z9-hIDMWcqMK8/edit?usp=drivesdk
Hello Ronan, Thank you for commenting and compatibility issue this firmware has with Simplify3D. Did you check to see if you can change the baud to 115200 in Simplify 3D? I couldn't communicate with Octopi until I figured that out. Best of luck with your projects!
Bonjour l'ami, merci pour le commentaire. Oui, vous avez raison, mais des pièces non CR10S Pro V2 sont nécessaires pour adapter le kit Micro Swiss Direct Drive au CR10S Pro V2 car aucun kit spécifique n'a jamais été développé pour celui-ci.
Thank you very much for the very intuitive and simplified sharing. I have a question that maybe you can answer and allowing more users to take advantage. I finally upgraded the ender 3 to the cr10s pro version 1 without bltouch and replaced the proximity sensor with an end stop, finally allowing coherence on a glass bed. However, in terms of calibrating the stepper directly on the printer, is it possible to use the board and screen firmware upgrade process described in this video, even without bltouch? Thank you very much.
Hello joaofonseca3281, Thank you for your kind comment. If I'm understanding you correctly, you have an Ender 3 that you installed a CR10S Pro V1 board, touch screen minus the proximity sensor, and limit switch as the z-endstop?
@@vbared sorry was not explicit. I have a cr10s pro v1 that I replaced the proximity sensor with an endstop but to complete the upgrade, I wanted to have access in the menu to the steps/mm for calibration, since from the pronterface at the end of a print the printer resets to factory values, even recording the values with the m500 code. So I wanted to update the firmware in order to have these tools directly on the printer. Thanks
@@joaofonseca3281 Oh OK, I think I got it. I would just swap out that 8-bit control board and touch screen for Creality's 4.2.7 control board and Ender 3 V2 display. Then you can load Miguels Professional Firmware on it which gives you access to all the advanced Marlin features like Input Shaping, Linear Advance, and every other kind of customization. I made a video on it - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hXZ3UPy67gc.html Later on if you decide, adding Klipper is a piece of cake - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Lz2UxyehG6s.html
That's not what I meant. Sorry for the misunderstanding. probably due to my bad english, I'm using the translator. What I meant is, I sold the ender3 and bought the cr10s pro v1. I replaced the proximity sensor on the cr10s pro v1 with an end stop, so I don't have the Bltouch. Now I want to calibrate the steppers to the printer. So I connect the printer to the prompterface to calibrate the steppers. I introduce the new values(m92 x__ y__ z__ ) and save (m500). Then I confirm if they were properly stored (m503). Apparently everything is ok The problem is that after printing, I check the values of the steps and they are back to the original values. Now I want to install a firmware that allows me to calibrate the steps/mm in the printer menu. My question is: Are the firmwares in your tutorial only functional for versions 1 and 2 with Bltouch? or can i install the same firmwares on cr10s pro v1 without bltouch. I can't find any firmware for the cr10s pro v1 that accesses the steppers/mm calibration menu. I hope I have clarified. Sorry for the misunderstanding and thanks for your interest and help. By the way, nice evo.
Hi, I've just spent a few hours doing the steps mentioned in your video, but no luck, the screen firmware does not load and neigter does the firmware... :( same setup, cr10sproV2 with a micro swiss direct drive, i needed to change the x and y offset because my bltouch is oof the bed.. but it's still a very nice and helpful video :)
Hello Ronald, Sorry to hear the flash isn't taking for you. To fix the X & Y issues print up the 3.75mm spacer file in this link. It slips over the side of Micro Swiss DD bracket to trigger the x-limit switch early. That will line the BL-Touch back up for you. To resolve the y-limit just move it up by about 10mm. Use a t-nut with a shorter screw to free up the bracket from its fixed position. If you are looking for a super compact, quiet, and highly efficient parts cooler check out my video on it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V_3GLGS4bx8.html drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=14HBd3-3QOZVfKeaqpUDkdcVrAX-giLHm Best of luck with your mods!
Hi Victor, thnx for the reply, I've tried to load the firmware again today but no luck, i did find out that the screen firmware isn't loading, I do get the Bleu screen but zero files are copied, no matter what firmware I use, yes I've formatted the SD card etc... awel, my E3V2 was printing the spacer meanwhile but in my case it's a 52mm spacer because I'm using a different shroud, I'll exchange the shroud asap because it's a big spacer now and not very stable, anyway, thnx for the assistance, be well..
Hello Milius, Thank you for commenting. You would need to download the source file from: github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/find/CrealityDwin_2.0 Make the changes and compile the firmware. I haven't compiled one myself for the CR10S Pro V2. Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared thank you for answer but there is no any source code in there.. i need to change parameters such as max temp and thermistor. how can i do that?
Hi Google Name, I'm not sure if it can or not since I just used the Tiny Machines 3D firmware that was compiled by them. The 50 watt heater cartridge I'm using must be close to the original 40 watt one since I've run both with this firmware without any issues. Let me know if you find that you can do it. Best of luck with your projects! Best of luck
Thank you, Everything works great except I noticed on your download there were 16,000+ bytes I seem to be only getting 14,000+ which is limiting some of the functions (reset BL touch) specifically. Any ideas?
Hi Fernando, Thank you for commenting. This document contains link to the most up to date firmware version for the CR10S Pro V2. Just follow the guide to get it installed. docs.google.com/document/d/1cuYWpDw8aPuLEXus3uNsgDIEAKEze3Z9-hIDMWcqMK8/edit?usp=drivesdk docs.google.com/document/d/1cuYWpDw8aPuLEXus3uNsgDIEAKEze3Z9-hIDMWcqMK8/edit?usp=drivesdk
so all said and done im looking at.... like $300ish in upgrades from this video? if i add a cover for it maybe like another 200-250? cost of the printer is $615? If I do these upgrades does it make the printer a $900+ printer? or just a working $615 printer? would there be something better in the price range that works right out of box or with a similar total cost post upgrades that works better?
Hi Adam, This is what I would buy today if I needed another big printer. Add the BL Touch and you have the same performance as my upgraded CR10S Pro V2 for a lot less. amzn.to/35jpW4Q amzn.to/33Dy3sC
Hello Nos68, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. The bed I'm using is a Wham Bam (linked below) whambam3d.com/collections/flexible-build-system-for-fdm/products/310-x-310-kit-with-pre-installed-pex-build-surface-1 Best of luck with your mods!
Really too bad you can't punch in offsets for "home" instead of moving the limit switch and adding spacers. So when I "home" the machine the probe should end up center of the bed (150, 150). manually put in 150,150 the extruder should be in the physical center of the plate?
Hi Bush Pig, There are a couple of ways to do it. Both require compiling your own firmware and preconfigure it for this setup the other to preconfigure the non-touch display which displays these settings needed to change the home positions. Tiny Machines 3D sells a kit. I actually bought it but decided to keep the color touchscreen and just mechanically alter the home positions. I'll see if I can learn how to compile a firmware for the CR10S Pro V2 and share it.
My bed measures 12 3/16" wide and 12 5/8" deep. With the mechanical mods my nozzle sits at 6" x 6.5" when I punch in X-150mm and Y-150mm. For me it's close enough but I can understand wanting the right way to do it. I'll dig into it some more and see if I can get it working without having to lose the color touch screen.
@@vbared You're work around is awesome and works great. I'll be printing the other space tonight and moving the rear sensor. Thanks for your hard work on this, it's really transformed the printer.
Thank you so much for the detailed video! how exactly do i find the latest DWIN and .Hex files? i see 7.4.6 is out now and i cant find where the DWIN for ir it. i found the .7z file, but im not sure what to do with that.
Hi Enoch, Thank you for commenting. This document contains link to the most up to date firmware version. docs.google.com/document/d/1cuYWpDw8aPuLEXus3uNsgDIEAKEze3Z9-hIDMWcqMK8/edit?usp=drivesdk docs.google.com/document/d/1cuYWpDw8aPuLEXus3uNsgDIEAKEze3Z9-hIDMWcqMK8/edit?usp=drivesdk
Hello there, Is there any way to use "pause at height" option from post processing setting in Cura. I bought 2 of this printer and I need to get it work because all my prints and designs requires "pause at height" feature either changing color or adding bolts or magnets. Could you please please help me with this problem.
Hello Vanced test, Thank you for commenting. I'm looking into it for you. Since I hadn't needed to do this I wasn't aware this feature was broken or absent. The trouble with the CR10S Pro V2 is the touch screen which seems to not be open source so the community hasn't given it the support it deserves. Adding a Raspberry Pi and running Klipper on the CR10S Pro V2 would be one way to get the pause working.
So here’s the funny thing. I have a cr10s pro, not a cr10s pro v2, the mainboard on my printer is the exact same as yours (v2.4). The only difference is that i have the stock hot end and an inductive sensor that i wouldn’t change for a bl touch because it works perfect for me. The problem is that i flashed the screen and the mainboard with this firmware and when i tried to print something, the nozzle was hitting the bed in the left corner and wouldn’t move away from there, it just went up and down every time hitting the bed, although when i did autolevel, nothing went wrong, it seemed perfect. What could be the problem? Any ideas?
Hello Mtibbi 24, Thank you for commenting. Is your probe missing the bed during any of the probes or does everything work fine after the auto level but not after you power cycle the printer?
does the same for me, tested today, it sticks there banging on the axis end switches - autolevel seems ok, manual level, bangs on the switches. Firmware is buggy probably.
Hello Fernando, Thank you for commenting. Are you using the flash file from my link? Which sounds aren't working? The firmware is from Tiny Machines 3D, they maintain it. They might have an update.
Thx for the video. But can you tell me, why the CR-touch is now not moving/working as usual? Normally it should move upwards fast when it feels the bed. Now it seems like its wating for some kind of resistance.. I have uploaded it on my page. Maybe you have an answer on this :(
Hello thewisi88, Thank you for commenting. Are you using a CR-Touch or the stock BL-Touch? Did your CR10S Pro V2 come with a capacitive sensor or did it come with a BL-Touch? There is a wiring difference that I talk about in the video and you need to make sure you are using the right firmware for each of the wiring variations. Linked below is the original document for installation: docs.google.com/document/d/1cuYWpDw8aPuLEXus3uNsgDIEAKEze3Z9-hIDMWcqMK8/edit
@@thewisi88 Hello, I just looked at the video and it seems to be probing the same as mine is near the end of this video. Other than the difference in the probe behavior after the flash, is it printing normally?
Thanks for this. I have the exact printer cr10s pro v2 with version 2.4. Stuff I tried before bricked my machine. I did exactly what your video said and it came up like your video same screens etc. Hope at last but the hotend temperature temperature was -15c. After the hardware upgrade I did check the temps to make sure nothing got busted both temps about same. But with software upgrade the hotend is -15c. Guessing the hotend sensor went bad measured the ohms across sensor going into the breakout board it is 94k ohms which is close to the 100k ohms they are supposed to be. So maybe it is software, went to github downloaded latest hex file and it is still wrong -15c temp. Not sure what to do next.
Hello dougleppard, Thank you for your kind comment. I would try swapping out the thermistor, PID tuning and trying again. I didn't experience this issue myself so I don't know for sure. Since the making of this video my CR10S Pro V2 has gone through many changes because I was tired of not having access to the advanced firmware features like input shaping, pressure advance and unified bed leveling. I swapped out the original 8k board for a Creality 4.2.7 silent board that has 512k of memory, added a Raspberry Pi with Klipper, lead screw timing belt, a Micro Swiss NG REVO direct drive extruder and JUSTHANGIN's G10 Garolite build plate. The PETG prints are now beautiful, complete at half the time, I can print on the whole bed without any adhesion issues or need for scrappers to get the prints off. It took a bunch of work and money but the thing now produces consistent prints and is reliable. Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Thanks you are incredibly kind to answer these comments. You really did a great job in video. Highly doubt it is the thermistor but just incase I ordered it, cheap and fast. At this rate I am ready to buy another printer. CR10s was working great until I did the direct drive upgrade and bricked the printer.
@@dougleppard When the thermistor arrives trace all its connections back to the board to make sure that everything is making good contact. Give me a call 478-227-3301 if you want me to help you get it fixed. I've swapped out all of the parts that handicapped this printer and made RU-vid videos on each step. Check out how it currently looks. photos.app.goo.gl/DkcM1JPzhARpw94t8
Hello friend, I'm currently running: Micro Swiss NG REVO for my hotend 4.2.7 Creality 512k control board Z-axis sync belt Klipper firmware Garolite G10 build plate (super light, has some flex, is awesome for PLA, PETG, and NYLON) Noctua fans underneath, dual 4010 blowers for parts cooling and a 30mm heatsink fan.
I’ve tried my best and cannot seem to find the files I need to download and I can’t find the instructions. Following your instructions I’m sure I will be able to do it as long as I can find the files to download. Can you give me some help with that? Thanks so much. It’s rare to find somebody that’s willing to take the time to explain how to do something in such a detailed manner.
Hello Over Drive Garage, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. I appreciate you pointing out that the file link might be broken. Below is the link to the .STL files of parts you will need if you plan on upgrading to the Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder Kit as well as the flash files. Let me know if you run into any issues so I can do my best to help you complete the firmware upgrade. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1WWe6Dxa98CAzoT_xAR23uBEAqW8BP7vJ Best of luck with your mod!
@@vbared now my only issue is xloader says it “can’t open com port” It’s com3 on mine. We tried multiple times to no avail. We did successfully do the screen upgrade. The issue is the print head smashes hard down onto the bed and has to be shut down immediately.
@@WELDERUPGARAGE Good morning Over Drive Garage, If you're on the correct Atmel chip and using the interface cable that came with the printer you could try a different cable, turning off your antivirus before running Xloader, use a different USB port on your computer or try flashing with another computer altogether. Google search "Xloader not communicating with CR10S Pro V2. My experience in this area is limited since it just worked for me. Computers differ and some can be fickle so give the aforementioned a try if you haven't already tried them and see if one works for you. If you can't get it working just download the latest firmware from Creality and flash the display. Best of luck with your upgrade.
@@vbared OK I got everything working with the exception of now there’s a problem with the Z axis. It won’t stop slamming into the bed. From what I’m looking at I Just need to get another mother board.
Hi Frankentrain Laboratories, I had the video sped up. I'm going to run more tests with it to see what the max is going to be from the 32bit board. A couple of cool things about the firmware in the video description is that it has Input Shaper and Linear Advance which I forget to mention in the video in addition to all the other things.
@@vbared You show us the PID screen but nothing regarding adjustment, maybe you could do a overview of PID in this printer what, why and how kind of thing. I have wanted better understand and see what adjustments can be made. For example I now had a quish out spot at every corner of parts. Even Holes, I measure them and they are round but look oval because the side edges of the holes are squished out just like the sides of a box. So how do reduce squish on corners, slow it down, reduce extrusion, Where are any adjustments made. Just how do we SUPER TUNE the 10s Pro. I used to build engines, and the Engine Dyno was a massive tool for dialing everything in perfectly, Idle, Air Fuel Ratio, Timing etc etc. Just how can we Super Tune the 10S Pro with this new Firmware? Does the 427 motherboard require the new screen??? I like my old one. Thanks For all you do, Dennis
thx! this is best tinymuchine firmware guide on youtube! i got cr10s pro v2 almost year ago and this is my first firmware update! when i saw other youtuber's guide i just gave up cause my bad english and bad skill but i decided to try it after watching your guide! i have one question.... after click the gcode file one that i want print... upper left conner "cooling",heating",ready to print" sign is flashing.... every 0.5sec.. also even if i turn off auto leveling it always do auto leveling.. even if you dont know how to fix my issue.. your guide was best for me! also the issue is not that big issue so i will stay with this firmware...
Hello Choong Han Lee, Thank you for commenting. The Auto level might be in your slicer program start gcode and it's including it with the file you're printing. If you are using Cura go to: Settings then Printer, go down to manage printers, make sure your printer is selected, then to the right select machine settings. A box with open up and you'll see Start G-code. In this box remove the line that starts with G29 or just replace your whole Start G-code with mine below if you are using the CR10S Pro V2. M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate ; CR10S PRO V2 Custom Start G-code M117 Getting the bed up to temp! M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature M117 Pre-heating the extruder! M104 S160; start warming extruder to 160 G28 ; Home all axes G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder M117 Getting the extruder up to temp! M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position M117 LET THE PURGE BEGIN! G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw 1st line G1 X10.6 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X10.6 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw 2nd line G92 E0 ; reset extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z up little to prevent scratching of surface M117 Autobots! Roll Out! ; End of custom start GCode
Thank you so much for this!! I bricked mine messing around with Mainsail/Klipper. I went through a bunch of other videos, but none had all the files I needed. I got it working again! Now I just need to finish your video and doing set-up but damn, big sigh of relief. Don't suppose you'd ever do a run through getting Klipper/Mainsail on a PC working for a print farm?
Hello ComicCaper, Anytime friend, I'm glad you got your CR10S Pro V2 up and running again. I can imagine that you were probably sweating there for awhile. Yeah, I hear ya, too costly to Raspberry Pi every machine, especially with the current chip shortage. I would imagine you can run a flavor of Linux that is compatible with Klipper on a PC and then just use a big USB hub to connect all the printers to, each one will have it's own port. Maybe search for multiple sessions of Klipper off one Raspberry Pi and apply some of that port info into to your Linux PC setup.
@@vbared im in this same situation the guy i got the printer off was using a rasberry pi and klipper and i cant seem to get it back to stock settings followed the video but the xloader doesnt recognise my printer theres only CR03 or CC01
@@kriszzt3787 I ended up not putting any more time into the stock 8 bit board and just swapping it out for Creality's 4.2.7 512k silent board plus Ender 3 V2 HD display and installed a custom version of Miguel's Professional Firmware with liner advance, input shaping, UBL bed mesh, tramming and MPC tuning support, just to name a few. I recently added a Micro Swiss NG to it. Check out my detailed video on the swap. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hXZ3UPy67gc.html
Hiya, about to update both the LCD firmware and the board firmware. Is the linked files still the latest firmware? If not, can you point me as to where I can find the latest versions?
Hello Chris, Thank you for commenting. Linked below is the source for the latest TM3D firmware and screen files. docs.google.com/document/d/1cuYWpDw8aPuLEXus3uNsgDIEAKEze3Z9-hIDMWcqMK8/edit?usp=sharing Best of luck with your mods!
Hello Bruno, Thank you for commenting and great question. If you haven't moved the BL Touch from it's factory location then you don't need to do anything with the probe offset. The stock firmware in your machine has the correct values programmed for the factory BL Touch's stock position. It's only if you move the probe more to the right, left, forward or back that the probe offset values need to be updated in the firmware or settings menu if available to the you. I had to update my firmware to gain access to these settings that the stock firmware doesn't display since everything with my hot end mount was moved around from the stock position. Best of luck with your mods!
I did all your instruction and check it 2 time before, but now my printer after press home botton it get stock on the bed and the only way to stop is turn off power, please help.. new bltouch and metal direct drive, update lcd and firmware ok cable connected perfect
Hi Salvador, Thank you for commenting. Please email me vbared@gmail.com some pictures of the direct drive from all sides so I can try to figure out what is happening. I'll do my best to help you.
Hello 74helpme, Thank you for commenting. The file link is in the video description and also linked here for your convenience. Just unzip the file and you'll see a folder that is titled "10S Pro V2 Firmware Flash Files" The Dwin_set screen folder containing all the files is inside. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=11gGWekgOe8mDNrXnRidldwCpqSnnlR5E Best of luck with your mods!
Hello Andre, Thank you for commenting. Please give me some more details. Are you saying that the printer isn't booting up or that your custom settings aren't being stored in memory?
@@pirililix Hi Andre, If you're able give me a call 478-227-3301 so we can figure out what is going on with your printer. Make sure to leave me a message if I missed your call.
2 года назад
I tried with CP-01. Now I get average of CR10S and CP-01 on the screen. Could you prepare same tutorial for Creality CP-01 please
Hello Barış Düzenli, Thank you for commenting. I'm unfamiliar with the CP-01 but found this site with firmware that might help you. bottlestonightapp.com/content-firmware/creality-cp-01-firmware Best of luck with your projects!
Hello, your video has been very useful to me, I have a cr10s pro V1 that I want to update to V2, on the tinymachine page I cannot find the firmware update that you use. Where can I download it? thank you
Hello user-ft7ki3rf1q, Thank you for the kind comment. I'm glad you found value in this video. The link should be in the video description and also below for your convenience. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=11gGWekgOe8mDNrXnRidldwCpqSnnlR5E Best of luck with your upgrade (:
Hi, I flashed the tiny firmware to my cr10 max about a year ago.. all good, but I've just fitted a v6 volcano, and the thermistor is different.. printer comes up with a fault as soon as I try and heat the nozzle.. can I change the thermister settings and keep the tiny machines firmware? Thanks.
@@edwardyoung7851 Hi Edward, I would contact Tiny Machines and see if they will edit and recompile their firmware with the correct thermistor. I'm not sure if they make the source file available to the public. I'm sure they'll either do it for you or point you to the source file.
Wonderful video. I seem to have an identical setup (including the direct drive from Micro Swiss which is what led me to download the Tiny Machines firmware because I need the x offset). Unlike you I'm having all kinds of issues with the firmware . Specifically it has disabled the auto levelling button (it's visible you just can't select it), and when you go into AUX level it ignores the probe offset (even though it recognizes it perfectly when you home it). When trying to measure the probe also ignores the offset and starts levelling with the probe off the bed (again, it's ignoring what I'm setting and looks to be going back to the factory offset even though it's clearly set). Any ideas? I noticed there are a lot of firmware versions for this printer and you used the BIL_DW7.4 I tried that one and the newer 7.4.3, but what are the differences with the BIL_ME or BIL_MC hex files? I don't know where to find this information or how you came to conclude which one you needed. Any insight is appreciated.
Hello rashton33, Thank you for commenting. Give me a call +1 478-227-3301 so I can help you. It might be confusing for me to clearly communicate what you can do without you being able to ask me to elaborate on points that you need more info on.
@@vbared I really appreciate the offer and will probably take you up on it but have another small problem to investigate first. I had my first successful print last night since upgrading to direct drive. Only now, for only the second time in about 3000 hours of print time, I got filament pushing back up - only a bit - it actually came out sideways from the block - weird and it continued printing fine for the next ten hours so the flow stopped before it got bad. I might have to watch your installation video - I must have not seated the tube properly. I've got three months of printing to catch up on, that and fixing my Ender 6 is next on the list. Thanks again and will talk to you soon.
@@IrulianDark Hi Rashton33, I just went through the same repair last night. I noticed oozing from under the silicone cover dripping down the tip. The heat cycles can cause the tip to heat brake mate surface with the nozzle to open up. It sucks when it happens and messy to clean up.
@@vbared Hey Victor I've got this thing dialed in fairly well now, just two oddities. (1) With Tiny Machine firmware it never remembers the Y probe offset value. Every time I turn off the printer or finish a print job it goes back to zero. It remembers x and z without issue. (2) Issue and maybe I'm dumb, but after doing the AUX levelling and then hitting measure it comes back with the message " set z offset". How? Wasn't the literally the point of measuring is that it now knows the z offset? I'm 99% sure it didn't do that before the Tiny Machines firmware. What I'm doing for now is manually adjusting the z offset while it does the brim on my first print job.
@@IrulianDark Hi Rashton33, After making changes you need to store them in the EPROM. There is a picture of a chip on the lower right of the screen in the adjust steps/mm button. After you set it make sure to press the picture of the chip that is labeled store settings. You also have to press the store setting chip icon or the button on the first tools menu before shutting down after you dial in your z-offset. Let me know if that works for you.
Hey dude, I've just tried this - followed it step by step but I keep getting an SD Init error and cannot select the print or temperature controls. PID Tuning doesn't work either. Really strange. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi Andrew, Thank you for commenting. Try formatting the SD card or using a different one. The PID tuning works but it doesn't display the status on the display. When you start the PID tuning the display will indicate that it's finished but it's still running the PID tuning which will take about 5-10 minutes to complete. Best of luck with your mods!
Hi Chris, Thank you for commenting. The screen is the only part you have left to flash? If so I would try a different SD card. Sometimes they can develop corrupt sectors that data gets written to. Also make sure the DWIN folder along with its files are the only thing on the SD card. If the files are on the root directory of the SD without it's containing folder the flash won't work.
Hey brother, quick question...stock cr10s pro v2 with bl touch, can I flash this on a stock machine without any additional parts to upgrade the firmware for more features? Appreciate you my friend. Thank you
Hello David, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Yes, You can flash it on a stock CR10S Pro V2 to get all the advanced settings. Best of luck with your mods!
Got throught the firmware install without a hitch thanks to this video. If I might ask, does the screen flash beat heating to 3d printer ready in the corner? Mine also makes the boot up chime periodically oddly enough but it's only happened twice. It prints just didn't know if this was normal ish behaviour 🤣. TIA
@@DavidSeda Hi David, Yes, you're going to notice some little things like that. Unfortunately, the software for the touch screen part is proprietary and not made available to developers. When you use the PID tuning feature the screen will display finished but it hasn't, it's still running. Once you press the start for the PID tuning for the hotend you need to wait about 7-10 minutes then press the "Store Settings". Repeat for the aforementioned for PID tuning the bed. I included my start code for you to try. It works awesome and keeps filament from oozing out of the hotend during probing. Paste the following into your Start G-code M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate ; CR10S PRO V2 Custom Start G-code M117 Pre-heating the extruder! M104 S160; start warming extruder to 160 M117 Getting the bed up to temp! M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature G28 ; Home all axes M117 Auto bed-level GO! G29 ; Auto bed-level (BL-Touch) G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder M117 Getting the extruder up to temp! M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface G1 X300 Y200 Z0.28 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position M117 LET THE PURGE BEGIN! G1 X300 Y20.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw 1st line G1 X298 Y20.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X298 Y200 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw 2nd line G92 E0 ; reset extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z up little to prevent scratching of surface M117 Autobots! Roll Out! ; End of custom start GCode
One quick question when Im formatting my sd card it is not giving me a option to pick 4096 under allocation size, do you know why this is? I am using a 32g card.
Hello, recently my Cr10S Pro V2 got stuck on the load screen and while looking for a solution I found your video, I followed your instructions and did the upgrade. It did flash the screen and fully load However, now my touch screen is unresponsive. Oddly it would work some time perfectly, then I would have to hold my finger for a few moments then it it would respond and then more time than not it would not respond at all. I then found the factory flash setting on the Creality website and restored it to the original. It did come on but responded the same, so I then went back to the files you had with the same response. Could this actually be a touch screen problem, or do I not have the right flash files? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting. Unfortunately, I haven't experienced the screen issue you're having so I can only guess at a possible solution. In my opinion the biggest problem with the CR10S Pro V2 is its 8-bit control board and proprietary touch screen. What I've done to my own and recommend that you consider is replacing the control board, loading Klipper firmware on it which will eliminate the need for a display. All the printer controls would be accessed by any device that uses a web browser like a laptop, smart phone, or tablet.
First off, great video, thank you so much. When tackling something like this, sometimes it's just better to have someone go through the whole process, including waiting for a flash to complete, etc. I've followed all steps (using newer files/firmware from github), and all seems to be fine. However, I've noticed that I can't enable auto leveling (the switch just won't toggle to on) in settings. I've just had this printer for a day, but so far haven't been able to print anything successfully, so hoping new firmware will help. Is this normal behavior for the ABL setting, though?
Hello Christopher, Thank you for commenting and kindness. The auto level button can be toggled after you do you complete your first level. The auto level button is greyed because there is no bed level data available in the EPROM after flashing. Let me know if this doesn't solve the problem so I can try to help you resolve it. Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Thanks Victor, you were right. I'm actually having problems with this printer, as I haven't been able to successfully print without some errors. The first time I levelled the bed, I also dug a hole in the bed with the nozzle, apparently (facepalm). Leveling has made a huge difference in print quality, but I'm still getting shabby prints that I wouldn't expect/want from a $700 printer. I'm not sure if this is just my own lack of experience, or if the unit is faulty. Frustrating. I can tell you that your video is worth its weight in gold, as instructions from Creality are practically nonexistent.
@@christopherthogmartin7867 Hi Christopher, 3D printing is tricky at first regardless of the printer. I can help you save time and frustration. Give me a call 478-227-3301 so I can get more details on the types of printing issues you're having.
I also have the CR10s Pro V2. Our build plates are in actuality 310mm x 320mm. Have you lost any build volume after this upgrade? Great video, BTW. Your attention to accuracy and detail is to be commended. It was very easy to follow along with you.
Hello VegasGuy89183, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. No build volume has been lost. Actually I picked up a few extra millimeters of height due to the shorter hotend that I swapped to on my other CR10S Pro V2 video. Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared I have the same printer, and installed the wham bam as well. However, now when I auto home, the printer moves in the wrong Y direction. I have checked all connections and even replace the y stop switch. no idea how to fix it.
Hello Dandy_Dimensional, Thank you for commenting. I'm located in Bulverde, Texas. All the files I'm using should be linked in the description. Best of luck with your mods!
Hello Kimjongun, Thank you for commenting. I hadn't heard of it before but just looked it up. It's a custom version of Klipper that works with the Creality touch screens, right? I'll have to procure another Raspberry Pi. Give me some time to gather the parts and learn how to install it. It sounds promising. I'm currently using Klipper on one of my Ender 3 V2s and it works great.
@@vbared yes, that's correct! Desuu is Custom Klipper firmware with working touchscreen. Difference is that Klipper is another dimension firmware! Raspberry Pi 32bit CPU is fully in control of printer, not shitty 8bit Creality board. Prints are much nicer because of that CPU power and powerful processes of information. Problem is that instalation is pain in ass and ther's not much information how to install on Cr-10s pro.
Hello misza8202, Thank you for commenting. The developer's site is linked below but I find it super confusing to navigate and the reason that I posted the firmware directly in the video description. github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/CrealityDwin_2.0 Best of luck with your flash!
Hello friend, Here it is and also a bit further down in the list of links in the video description. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=11gGWekgOe8mDNrXnRidldwCpqSnnlR5E
Thank you one more question since I’ve updated everything it was working great for 3 prints now it comes up with heating failure e1 I’ve replaced the breakaway board and it heated up one time not says the thing. Any idea what could be bad or going on? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hello Manuel, Thank you for commenting. Are you currently using a Tiny Machines firmware on your CR10S Pro V1? I swapped out the control board on my CR10S Pro V2 to a Creality 4.2.7 board, added a Ender 3 V2 display and Miguel's Professional Firmware to it. The thing works amazing with this combination. Check out my video on it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hXZ3UPy67gc.html
@@vbared yes, l am, and I put a BL touch but I want to put a direct extruded on this machine! I recently design some support to move extruder near of the hot end
@@manuelcastrou79 Good morning, Manuel, Is the version of Tiny Machines 3D firmware missing a feature that you need to get the direct drive working on your machine?
Are you using the stock blue USB to Mini USB cable that came with the printer? Some USB cables are charge only and lack the data wires even though they appear to look the same on the outside. If you have the right data cable the printer will show up in your Windows Device Manager. If you don't see it appear there when you plug in your USB cable from the printer to your computer and are using the original data cable then you may need to update the windows drivers for it.
Hello Michael, Thank you for commenting. I'll double check the description in this video for the Google Drive file link. It should be there but also included here. Once you click on it it will download it to your computer. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1WWe6Dxa98CAzoT_xAR23uBEAqW8BP7vJ Best of luck with your projects!
For some reason I can't flash the screen, when I turn the screen on after inserting the formated sd card with the correct file, no files are downloaded, and there's 0000 next to everything that's supposed to be downloaded. Any idea why this is happening?
Hi Ruben, Thank you for commenting. It depends on the control board. Check yours to see if the model number matches the one from the video timestamped linked below. If so it should work. Make sure the BL-Touch is wired as shown in the video as well. Tiny machines 3D should be able to confirm this if you give them a call and ask. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F1Lk7N5CMo4.html Best of luck with your mods!
Hey Victor, just a quick question for you, I have a Ender 3v2 that i have not built yet (this will be my first printer) I have been given the opportunity to purchase the CR 10S Pro V2 used 3 or 4 times for a great price , would you suggest the CR10 a better option than sticking with the Ender 3 V2?
Hi Glenncol, The CR10S Pro V2's advantage is the build volume. Unfortunately its lack of community support and proprietary touch screen limit enthusiasm for it. The Ender 3 V2 is an amazing printer that with a few hundred dollars in upgrades rivals the quality and reliability of printers in the $1000 price range. The community support is robust. If you decide to purchase the CR10S Pro V2 because of the build volume or because it's dirt cheap I would look into installing and configure Klipper to work with it. The CR10S Pro V2's software support is its weakness. Best of luck with your build!
Hello, My cr10s pro v2 is printing beautifully with the stock firmware. But recently I’ve been trying to utilize the filament change script but my current firmware isn’t recognizing the M600 code and just continues printing. I’m hoping updating the firmware will help with this feature. Have you ever tried this script with the tiny machines firmware? I just don’t want to go through all the trouble if it still won’t work.
Hello peebs2424, Thank you for commenting. Unfortunately, I haven't used an M600 script. The folks over at Tiny Machines are super helpful and am sure they can answer your question. I've since replaced the stock 8bit board on the CR10S Pro V2 with a Creality 4.2.7 512k board to run Mainsail Klipper and take advantage of all the its advanced features like Pressure Advance and Input Shaping so I can print faster without quality loss. Best of luck with your mods :)
@@vbared Thank you for the response. They have emailed back saying M600 does work with their firmware. One other concern I had. Currently my printer is calibrated perfectly. Once I flash over to tiny machines do I have to re calibrate everything? E steps, flow rate, PID, z offset?
@@peebs2424 That's great news, what I would do is write down your settings (don't forget about the probe offsets) prior to flashing the new firmware and simply enter them. You shouldn't have to fiddle with it if all the values are the same. You should be good to go after that :)
Fantastic video!!!! will be flashing in the near future. i just want to know how you increased the max nozzle temp to 300 degrees? Keep up the awesome vids!
Hello Kean, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. The Tiny Machines 3D firmware linked in the video description was compiled with the max nozzle temp at 300c so after flashing it you can go up to that temperature.
Hello Sangeetha, The firmware in this video is only for the CR10S Pro V2 but I made another video of my Ender 3 V2 and I go through step by step how to install the Jyers Firmware and GUI. It's the best firmware available for the Ender 3 V2 . ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-amRldRpnK2Y.html Best of luck with your build!
wanting to update the cr10s-pro v1 from th3d 1.1.9 firmware too current, bltouch is in the z- port do i just move to z+? it is an older bltouch tyia Randy
Hello Randy, Thank you for commenting. Unfortunately I don't have an answer based on real experience since I haven't worked on a CR10S Pro V1 or with the older BL-Touch. What I would do is try wiring it one way and switching to the second way if the first doesn't work. The guys at Tiny Machines 3D would have the definite answer for you. Best of luck with your mods!
@@randysalamon1909 Randy, please let me know which one works for you so if the question comes up again I can have a response based on your experience. Enjoy your day!
@@vbared Hi, swapped to the Z+ port and all seams fine. used a different fan duct as already had it printed. Only issue I dont like is the home is way off center in this firmware? other than that seems to be printing fine, new new version is going to get some time to get used to
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting. Yes, I would be glad to help. The stock X & Y steps are 80. The stock extruder step is 93 but it under extrudes set this way.
@@vbared ok thank you ,,and how about the prob axis value..because its faulty notification if i try to auto leveling... Maybe i wrong insert the value all of the steps/mm... This my first printer ,my friend just give me on last week,,but i make its broken ...hope you can help friend..thank you...amd if you dont care,can i got you email,so i can easly ask you about CR10S pro...
