Great info as always Michael. Most of these will be relevant to a lot of printers, so a lot of people will benefit. Sadly my Borg still doesn't have it's Wham Bam build surface yet, but hopefully soon.
Was reading to see if someone mentioned this. Yes, at idle the machine is not bad but when the fan in the power supply kicks in db's increase considerably. So the biggest offender is the power supply fan, not the motherboard fan.
You have saved my Cr-10s pro from going back. The inductive sensor made the greatest difference, but also loved your video on the Z axis leveling. The Tiny-machine firmware is also a huge step up. I would assume the wam-bam bed will work well with the inductive sensor. Thanks again. subscribed and liked I miss the glory days of Lotus with Senna
Hey man thanks for the link remember just use 12 volt fans and voltage converters two exceptions Parts Cooling can't use a 12-volt for that or you lose speed control add the power supply fan it's already 12 volts so you just need to directly replace it with a 40-20 12-volt ultra-quiet fan the power supply fan is the largest culprit in my printer for noise once you replace all of them and run the parts cooler at 60 to 80% you could sleep in the same room as this machine :-)
Every Creality printer you have to print parts to fix the problems or do tweaks. Why buy the bloody things when you can get a Artillery printer, either one Sidewinder or Genuis and you are set straight out of the box. I don't get it.
For fan noise. Use some hardy wire cutters and clip out the middle ring of the fan guard on the side case fan and the hot end fan. That will greatly reduce fan noise as the airflow will be better. Replace the fan in the PSU case, it's the worst offender. Some people have claimed that their printer is silent, so I wonder if Creality is starting to replace these noisy fans with better ones??
Hey @Teaching Tech, this video is 9 months old has there been any upgrades to the original software or do you still recommend flashing tinymachines software onto it?
Great Video as always, thank you. I see Creality has a new firmware on the site since your firmware instruction video. Does that new version still have no thermal runaway? Also, any idea where to find the release notes of the Creality firmware?
Flexi Plate Question - Does it have enough ridigity so the divets from the factory metal plate are not a problem? (I found the CR-10 flexiplate was not strong enough)
I am going back and forth between the CR-10s and the CR-10s pro. It looks like the pro has a lot of bugs. In your opinion which one do you think is better?
I bought my CR-10S Pro based on this video. If this video didn't exist, I would be sending it back. Actually, I bought an open box unit so someone else probably had a terrible experience. I tried printing with it out of the box and it was terrible. Tuned up, it's great. Thank you for the great work!
Can you please post a single video with just the ABL calibration procedure. I think even with the Tiny 3D video there is confusion on how to adjust the sensitivity of the ABL sensor vs. the actual height adjustment of the ABL sensor itself. I've had a hard time with this.
Hi Michael, I see you have a Prusa i3 MK3 in the background. After the fixes, how would you compare the the CR-10S Pro to the i3 MK3? I'm looking at the two and leaning towards the Prusa due to the out of the box "it just works" and the print quality. I'm just a bit put off that these simple fixes were not in the original product and makes me wonder what else could go wrong.
I really like your videos, well done! You're a pro A few points I would love to answer 1- I had a lot of problems with the original height sensor (even after the upgrade version) is not always accurate, is it because I use glass? Is this sensor good only for certain surfaces? (Does he have to work well with a magnet?) 2. Baby steps, can I update the version? If so, would I be happy to explain which file? .. github.com/jcheger/Creality-CR-10S-Pro-with-baby-stepping 3 - The speed of replacing the filament, currently according to the manufacturer's settings is so slow that you can grow old until it's over, where to update the speeds faster? Thank you very much for the answers And if you do not have the option, I would be happy if someone else could answer Eyal Biton
re: Poor filament path = dust. While it's always fun to print a fix, I'm wondering if I couldn't just take a countersink and gently round out the inlet. Remove the sharp edge = no scraping the filament = no dust. Or even take a round needle file and round out just the sharp top edge where the filament passes. Or, what the heck, my two hour print hasn't produced any dust; maybe Creality has already fixed this?
My 1st roll of PLA was $40 Tronxy black, and it was hard to get prints off my std End3 bed. But when that ran out I got generic $20 PLA, and it now has trouble sticking to the bed. Now I wonder how different different brands of PLA are, because Maker's Muse had trouble with stringing with different bands of filament.
Thanks for this excellent video. Note: you can install 2x12V fans (Noctua or other) and put them in series, it's the same result. Within the EU you can get excellent Sunon radial 24V fans here: www.tme.eu/nl/details/mf40202v2-a99-a/ventilatoren-dc-24v/sunon/mf40202v2-1000u-a99/. Did you notice any excessive heat coming out of the SSR (like +50°C)? Did you check the latest Creality FW 1.60.71 as I believe it includes thermal runaway protection? Also, their latest batch of printers now come with a inductive sensor instead of a capacitive one.
Thanks for sharing great info. Haven't noticed any heat or tried the newest Creality firmware. The new sensor will be good as long as people don't want to use glass.
Hey, just wanted to share the fix i've been using for the poor filament path to reduce the dust. As far as i could tell this was caused not so much by the path but by tension put on the filament at the runout sensor causing it to grind against the inlet, it was happening once i decided to try a larger spool of petg which wasnt spinning on the spool holder very smoothly. I fixed this just by putting some automotive bearing grease on the spool holder... it just lets it spin easier and i have very little dust...
Saludos, alguien sabe cual es la medida de las boquillas de la cr 10s pro (v1) ... he comprado dos veces en distintas páginas y al parecer no son las m6x1 estándar ..... no he encontrado información exacta de qué tipo de boquilla comprar para esta impresora, gracias de antemano.
This printer sucks. Honestly... it's been such a POS in a HUGE WAY... JUST SICK AND TIRED OF THIS PRINTER. And I have two of them!!! Both of them are NOT WORKING. What is that grey tube where the probe is? Mine does not have this. I get it..I'm complaining about this printer, but we've been struggling with them for years... it should not be that way.
Hello. Xloader finishes updating with 0 bytes updated message. also cura is stucked at firmware upload pgress bar. promterface is OK with connecting and managing printer. any ideas? changed all baud rates and tried. firmware file is confirmed with tinymachines support. its CR10Pro_Stock_BIL_DW5.hex as of Feb.20
8:46 Never work on your printer while plugged into the mains and/or switched on. True there is only 24V running through so the shock hazard is low, but, you fling one screw on to that mainboard or drop it near other electronics and you run the risk of frying your system. The biggest issue I have found with this printer is the Gantry. On shipment mine came miss-aligned. There are 4 screws (2 on each rail of the gantry) where the red aluminum plates are attached. If those plates are not aligned perfectly to the rail, one side of your gantry will be higher/lower than the other. Loosen just one screw on each side (you may have to loosen the second screw a bit) and check the edge of the aluminum plate with the extruded rail edge. Align these on both sides perfectly, then re-tighten the screws. Check that the gantry is level on both sides by measuring from the print base to the bottom of the gantry. Then make sure to re-run bed leveling. This quieted my printer quite a bit as well as made a considerable difference in the quality of the print.
After i put on a wham bam plate my default sensor has made my 1st layer all over the place. Tried putting a bltouch on the CR-10S pro . lights on but will not home correctly pin drops 3x on power up but will not autolevel When told to goto home position printer just keeps going up on the z axis. Jumper installed bltouch 3.1
Hello!. The flexible build system you suggested is this “315 X 310 Kit With Pre-Installed PEX Build Surface - Creality K1 Max, Ender 3 S1 Plus, CR10 Smart Pro”.. 110 usd?
I updated to the tinymachines firmware and the resume feature still doesn't work. I entered the gcode and it still wont work. I'll be going back to the creality firmware as they've now fixed all of the known issues and you don't need some jumbled together 3rd party firmware.
Love the channel. No matter what 3D print advice I look up, I always come across your videos. As far as the filament guide, I made one myself and I feel fairly confident in saying it's one of the best options available. Compared to most I tried, it's less friction, less chance to jump off the guide from retractions, no top frame part required, easier to print (no supports), tool-less, and only requires a spare rail roller which most of us already have. Interested to get some feedback. Let me know if you wanna test it!
Im having an issue with this printer, i selected a file to print, and the printer sets to cooling or pause, and the completing % sets to 218...i upgrade the firmware twice to double check and the screen as well
I hope you can help me. On thingiverse i dot not get any response.... imgur.com/a/1rHweBt (vase mode) Why does make my Pro these rings? If i print faster, the gaps between the rings are lager. Print i slower the gap is smaller. I changed Z motors, E motor, extruder gears, PID tuned, changed z leadscrews, z rod sync belt, new polycarbonat rollers also new SKF bearings, new PTFE tube, new nozzle, tried diff. firmwares (Original, tiny machines, my own)... i have no idea what can cause this problem. pleas help me
Hi Teaching tech (great videos, i learned a lot for my CR-10 Pro!) ------- my Cr-10 pro has performed super in the first few month, only now i have a problem = i fixed a tube (it was stuck with PLA) and applied a new one and now: my printer goes off when it prints = it does not follow the lines, at first it seems to do so, but i goes off and then it will create a warped version instead of the nice and smooth sharp prints (that i am used to)... ----------- do you know how to fix this problem (have you heared about it) please let me know.-------- DaniEL
Does anybody know if there are 3rd party or first party mainboard upgrades made for the CR10S Pro/V2? I havent seen any online. Since the mainboard on the CR10S Pro/V2 is a 8-bit board, so would be nice if there is 32-bit boards to upgrade to?
This was very helpful. Following the Tinymachines instructions had my printer trying to drive the probe through the bed. Using the wrench it's working great now.
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
I have also thought about getting one of those sd card extension cables to plug into the display programming port and bring it to outside somewhere. Then you wouldn't need to open it up every time to do a firmware update. Some people put these in the external slot to to protect it as well.
If you are still stuck, this or a BLtouch would help. Nexi Tech made a conversion video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VH3zrRNOGfA.html
I need someone very smart that can troubleshoot my CR10S I bought it used and it's never worked but I love my ender3 v2 working horse but I would love to get the CR10S to work for my bigger prints and design
Can the CR-10s Pro control board be swapped out with a BigTreeTech SKR board? Haven't seen any videos addressing this yet. I see it is nearly impossible to find an Ender replacement board for this. Any help on finding a good replacement board would be appreciated.
Simple answer is yes butt. Lol The butt is the second smaller board on the Z axis and the screen. If you have the time and patience, you can install longer hotend wiring and run klipper for sure.
Great review, but... WTF should the consumer have to go to the trouble of installing a range of fixes, including an essential safety feature, on a brand new printer? What have Creality said in relation to these issues? Are all new pros still shipped with these various issues?
Finally printing the fan adapter for my CR-10. The board fan started a whinning sound on start. After 5-6 restarts the fan would run normally. *Thanks again for this video.*
Decided not to buy one because of your last video pretty much pointing out why they weren't worth it... but now you suggesting its worth fighting for after I spent the money on another printer.. you are something else.
I still have the cr10 s pro and I want to print faster. I also have the bambu labs x1 carbon but i love the cr10 and want to keep it because of the quality and bed space. Can you make a new video how to speed up the cr10 s pro?
two days and hours.. can't get a first layer to stick.... done all the normal stuffs to fix it... but damn... Going to try the tinymachines soon. Getting a bit frustrated.
I just installed a Bondtech on mine and as I am lowering the Extruder voltage as directed. I’m amazed to see XYE are at 1.4v and Z at 1.7v. What vref are you running?
Hi Michael . trying to download the replacement part cooling fan from your link above but get 404 error . Any idea where I can get a copy of the file please?
This, is an awesome video. I am a new subscriber as of about two weeks ago and thoroughly enjoy the objective straightforwardness of all your subject matter. Thank you. Question, I am not a wham bam user (yet). Does a person need to use a glue stick for adhesion to the wham bam upgrade?
Hello! My original hot bed cover was broken after 2 weeks at the central point and I has remove it. What kind of cover is better for the best adgesion of ABS? - 1) Glass (mated glass) 2) Borosilicate glass 3) Perforated or black diamond glass (as on the JGaurora) 4) PEI Polyetherimide cover (1? 2? or 3mm?) 5) Metal with magnet with PEI, as You show (I'm afraid, that it can be weaved during expluatation).... 6) something else..? I want to buy for my CR-10S PRO but can not choose (all of them is not a low cast items. One borosilicate glass was broken during transportation...)
@Michael Patakos found it... whambamsystems.com/blog/f/what-size-flexible-build-system-for-your-3d-printer it's a 310x320 for the CR10S Pro.. and a 310x310 for the CR10S ... so i have to buy the bigger one
Hello Michael. First of all I want to say your reviews are great. Very detailed and well explained. About this CR-10S Pro. I kept thinking. This is a $650 plus taxes and fees printer, plus your recommended upgrades which they all look like must haves, this printer comes out over $750. With that same money you can get the latest Prusa MK3S which is a better printer only trailing this one in print volume. What are your thoughts on this? Do you have a review on the Anycubic Chiron?
Haven't used the Chiron but I still love my mk3. It has stood up very well against all of the printers I've reviewed since. Build volume as you say is the downside compared to the cr-10
Prusa i3 MK3S KIT is $750. Creality CR-10S Pro is $600, Wham Bam $89, fan $5. I own both and I love my Prusa. It is fair to say that this combo is appealing considering the larger build volume and easier assembly (even with the mods here).
Well i have a problem with mine and i need your help.It downsize the prints by itself!!! A cube 20x20x20mm it prints it exactly 10x10x10mm!!!I update the softwear like you do from tinnymachines and the problem still exist!! I send the same g code to another printer and it prints perfect!!!I change the slicer the problem still exist!!!! Any idea what is happening????????PLEASE I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO.... :( :(
Hi Michael, I am looking at the CR-10S Pro as my first 3D printer. Do you have a suggested “shopping list” of things I should get with the printer? I found the Banggood site difficult to get through (ignoring the misleading ‘discount voucher’ claims) I am expecting that I will need to do upgrades but would like to get these underway with the initial build if I can.
resume after power cut for what???... the last time i remembered we had no power it was during a big storm.. and when you have a storm.. you should turn off your electronics anyway...
@@kirafrost7618, you must live some place where storms aren't very common. In Florida in the summer you can pretty much count on a thunderstorm rolling through almost every afternoon. Momentary power outages are pretty common and it's not feasible to turn things off every time there is a thunderstorm. A UPS is a good idea for sensitive electronics though.
Thanks for the video. Considering that the latest CR10s PRO official firmware already has thermal runaway protection, do you still be a benefit on upgrading to the TM firmware? What would be that benefit? Thanks
If you had to buy this or the Prusa MK3s as your first printer, which printer would be better suited? Looking to print flexible and hard materials, just want to know which prints better
Prusa works much better out of the box, although if you buy the kit the assembly is long and involved. Once together the Prusa has a lot more checks built into the system and much more frequent updates. Only problem is the difference in money.
Amazing video. The fan duct really saved me, mine failed in the same way and I had just basically superglued it to the screw. I personally had to use slightly longer m2 screws, to get it to nicely screw into the fan.
I was given a faulty CR-10S, not sure what's wrong with it yet so I started looking for common faults on them and found this video. Can't wait to get it fixed and get into this subject, been looking forward to getting a printer for a long time.
Has anyone upgraded the Y Axis with Linear Rails? Thinking about maybe some sort of secondary frame or something that would allow me to get the rails closer to parallel. Any thoughs?
Hi, I love your videos, and this one provides provides some food for thought. I have had my CR-10S PRO for about 5-weeks now and unfortunately, I never got the test dog dog to print well from the start and had to do a deep dive into the printer problems. That even includes reading C++ for Marlin ;) Initially, I discovered that the build plate was warped with a hump that went right to left just off center from the front and it was off by 0.78mm from the front to the warp high point. I removed the Creality build sticker, then whacked the build plate over my thigh a few times to reduce the warp, and then mounted it upside down to allow the support plate and clips to remove the rest of the warp. This worked well and I am within a couple of 1/100ths of a mm across the plate. This, however, required that I also put on a new BuildTak sticker for which you have to buy toe 400mmx400mm sticker and trim it down since BuildTak does not have a 310mmx310mm sticker. I was then able to print the test dog in PLA - Once. I ran the bed at 60c and the hotend at 210c. It seemed as though I had to continually adjust the hotend z level at the outset of a print to get the filament to flow correctly and to get it to stick (even on the buildtak) - yes Auto Bed Leveling was ON. I had the problem where, if I use a 1st layer brim that is initially good in its thickness and initial stick-down, it lifted on the outside edges late in the print of the brim (I use a 2mm wide brim) and suddenly the print nozzle is hitting it on the way to the printed object - lots of spaghetti when that happens - I had to constantly watch it and kill the print (have done that many times). I did flash to the Tiny Machine firmware, I did replace the capacitive sensor with an inductive sensor. My auto calibrate measurements are all at 0.02mm or less at all 16 pts. I use Cura (3.6 and now 4.0) with the suggested CR-10S PRO configuration from Tiny Machines. My hot end or extruder or both seem to have problems so I upgraded them to a Micro Swiss hot end. I have tried several slicers including: Cura, SLIC3R, even the Beta Creality Slicer (DO NOT USE - it seems to not use the Auto Level info at all - IT BURIED the print nozzle tip into my bed, near the center so I had to replace the nozzle. On reading through the Marlin Configuration dot h file I noticed that it allows the nozzle to drop upto 2mm below the sensor-on point so that explains that). I started to get good prints and then switched to PETG. more problems with 1st layer sticking and blobbing. I found that the lead screw nuts on the z-axis lead screws that drive the X-Axis gantry beam in the z-axis on the right and left side of the frames were loose - very loose (4-screws, 1 to 3 turns each), this would lead to z-axis hysteresis during up and down motion and would explain why on certain moves across layers the nozzle would score the previous layer; I tightened those up. Then I checked the squareness of the X-Axis beam relative to the side Z-Axis beams and found them to be out of square on both sides. Loosening one of the two side roller on each side and adjusting the inside roller tension I was able to square the beam up. The extruder spur gear on the stepper motor shaft loosened up and dropped down on the motor shaft - this led to slipping of the filament being extruded and a clicking noise. When I re-adjusted that spur gear, I noticed that I could not get it to align with the non-stepper spur gear. On examination, the bottom teeth of that spur gear had ground a small ring into the aluminium extruder base plate. I used an old 0.1mm shim to fashion a washer to place under the spur gear to both raise the gear teeth up from the aluminium base so it would align with the stepper mounted gear as well as give the gear a rotating surface to ride on so I would not continue to damage the aluminium base plate. So, to sum up: Warped Bed - Fixed; required a new BuildTak sticker Awful Leveling Sensor - Fixed; I went to an Inductive Sensor and adjusted it appropriately and use the Tiny Machines leveling method. Firmware - Fixed; flashed to the current Tiny Machines firmware Slicer Settings/Extruder/Hot End (or combination thereof) - Fixed; replaced the hot end with a micro swill all metal hotend; and used the Prussa Edition of SLIC3R PETG first layer problems and scoring of layers on nozzle travel - Fixed: - Tightened the lead screw nut assemblies and squared up the X-Axis beam to the Z-Axis Gantries. - Added G28 (home) and G29 commands to the GCODE after the bed and nozzle are heated. Also, I routinely check bed level with Octoprint and use the M500 command to save my bed leveling settings. Changed the fan shroud to a PETG ring shroud - it drooped and broke off - Not Fixed, will use the fan shroud and new 24Vdc fan per your video Finally, I have the Wham Bam 310mmx310mm build plate on order and am waiting for it. I tore the BuildTak up a bit trying to remove a PETG component and have been working around that spot ;) Now, I am a new guy to all this and I started with a Cetus3D printer that always just works. However, I will persevere since I think that I will be able to learn on this machine including getting it to run right - eventually (and I am stubborn and I refuse to let the machine win :). I really like the larger build area; the Cetus is sooo small. I hope you found this helpfull and I could always use help and suggestions
If you find that the nozzle-to-bed distance mysteriously changes a little, take a look at the Y rollers. I found that I had to loosen all eight of them, then very incrementally snug them up to the V channel (not just the eccentric ones). In the process I noticed that the height of the rollers' pillars was not uniform, with the eccentric ones a slightly different height than the non-eccentric ones. In operation, that can allow the bed to move up or down, depending on which roller of each opposing pair is able to seat deepest into its V groove.
Thanks for sharing. You've had quite an ordeal, I'm sorry to hear. The good news is like you've stated, you now have a much better understanding of 3D printers. Hopefully others read this and learn from your experiences.
Hi loved your latest video on cr-10s pro was wondering if you could provide us a in depth video on probing and bed-leveling and auto as Iwatched several videos but they seem to provide conflicting procedures which are not clear contradictory and ee hope you could clear this up for us.
