Repair leaks in basement foundation cracks with the easy to use LCR - Liquid Concrete Repair Kit. The repair kit is available at Menards or online at www.polygem.com/
Seems to be working. Here's a tip. If your sealing a crack at the window well check the outside for a crack and seal it with the paste. I didn't realize it until I noticed the material in the injection cartridge running down next to the window.
Great kit with an ingeniously engineered mixing method for the injectable epoxy! I recommend allowing the exterior putty to dry for 24 hours (first step with the injection ports and spreading along the crack). I ended up needing 2x more of the injection epoxy tubes which are luckily available online. Not terribly stinky, but I'd recommend a respirator while working this repair.
This stuff is the best. I tell everyone to buy it. It fixed my wall 3 years ago and hasn't leaked since. I had some left over so, even though I have to buy some cap material, I don't have to buy a whole kit. I had another small crack on the other side of the room where I am using what is left over, right now. I found this video because I couldn't remember how to mix the epoxy with the plunger so I had to look it up.
I highly recommend this company. I used one of their wall kits and it worked as advertised. Couple of tips: 1) as mentioned below, separate the injector plugs before applying to wall to get an uniform seal around the ports, 2) take your time injecting the mixed epoxy, if you encounter resistance you may have a discontiguous crack. 3) I did drill one 1/8” hole where a port needed to go just because the crack was so fine in that area. 4) The top 12” was above grade so I sealed the outside crack with clear silicone and allowed it to set up first. I ran 1/2 tube short on a 9’ wall and the company had another tube shipped the next day. I had not filled my top port yet so I has able to resume the injection process and filled the rest of the crack to the top of the wall. I used the remaining mixed epoxy on some floor cracks.
Great product. I had quotes to fix a leak in my basement of $6 - $7,000 with major foundation work and an additional sump pump. None of the contractors mentioned the less invasive option of trying the injection method first. Fortunately I found this on the web and a point source (hole) for the leak that could be injected. I followed the directions and after one full tube of injection, the leak is completely dry (after multiple hard rains). Thanks. Ric
Just bought my second kit for a basement foundation repair. Early in 2018 it was raining quite a bit when we noticed that the ominous crack in our basement had finally started to leak. At one point it was almost as if a pool had sprung a pinhole leak it was leaking so much. One week later I bought the first kit and fixed the crack. About a month later it seemed to rain for the entire month and flooded very badly in the area, not a drop of water came through the repaired crack! Now in early January the snow is starting to pile up and I've noticed the other ominous crack in our basement has the first signs of becoming a problem when it all melts. I promptly purchased a kit from the Polygem website and am just now waiting for the epoxy to dry. Thank you for making a great product for novices like me! Protip that I learned from the first time: do yourself a favor and use a wire cutter to snip the plastic cap from the base of the ports. After the epoxy dries you don't want to be bending that thin piece of plastic to attach the cap, it can and will crack the epoxy you just set up causing a pucker moment when you start filling the crack with the resin.
A few reminders when using the product: 1) the epoxy repair paste should be 70-80F to make it easier to use, cool epoxy is too thick, 2) cut off the plugs of the ports as it's difficult to seal the port onto the wall with the tether and plug attached, and 3) slow, steady pressure when injecting; it may seem like nothing is happening, but it can take 10-15 minutes to go from one port to the other.
I just finished with my second kit, and I think this stuff works great. Next time I do this I will have some quick set epoxy to fill in pin holes that I missed when applying the slow set stuff. I found this video after buying the kits on Ebay and having a couple of problems with the injection ports sealing the first time. I just ordered some more ports from your site because I have one more crack to work on.
I have a 6ft foundation crack where the bottom 2 feet or so moves behind the furnace that is about 3.5" from the wall/crack. There is enough space to install the ports and seal the crack between ports with the 2 part epoxy - but I can't attach the injection cartridges to those ports because of the furnace. I'm wondering if I can attach a 5" segment of appropriately sized vinyl tubing to the injection cartridge nozzle (secured by a tiny hose clamp). I would then be able to bend the tube to a 90 degree angle and attach the vinyl hose to the the lowest injection port (again secured temporarily by a 2nd tiny - hose clamp) and inject the sealant. Once full, I'd loosen the clamp on the injection port, remove the vinyl hose, quickly insert the plug and then reattach/clamp the hose to the next higher port and repeat the process. Does this sound like a good/workable application solution or are their other options?
Yes! Any part of the foundation that is above ground should be sealed on the outside with the crack paste in the kit or a cement patching material like hydraulic cement! Good question!
Just used this product , I had to wait 8 hours for the A and B paste to cure around the Injection ports than additional 8 hours for the paste topping . The Paste take too long to cure. I had a dry surface and followed to equal portions and mixed the paste to no streaks and cant believe how long it took. Good thing I waited for the full cure . I than injected the epoxy . I would not recommend this product to homeowners or to professionals. LCR needs to create a new paste with faster cure , because their is no way to do the injections if the paste in not hardened quickly. Please create a new formula for the paste to quickly harden , maybe even gorilla glue would work better or some other form. You are ahead of the competition and you have your product in a big box chain( Menards) please read all these comments and improve your product. Thanks
My problem was the epoxy would never inject into the crack. I pumped it several times, and thought all was well, but when I removed the nozzle all the epoxy just skirted back out. None ever came out the next port. I tried several ports with the same results. Any advice?
There could be a couple of explanations for a port being difficult to inject the LCR injection resin, one is the crack is very thin and though the LCR resin is relatively thin (warm cooking oil) it can take longer to move port to port sometimes as long as 10 - 15 minutes. Very rarely though, the LCR crack paste used to adhere the ports can sneak into the back of the port which will clog the port and prevent the injection of the LCR resin. When injecting do not use excessive force a firm handshake pressure on the caulk gun is more than enough pressure and then you simply have to allow the resin to flow into the crack. You can watch for air bubbles passing through the nozzle to monitor the movement of the resin into the port and also watch the forward movement of the plunger.
Just curious - what would make the injection solution to go vertically upward instead of flowing horizontally to outside and simply accumulating there between outside dirt/gravel and foundation wall? I understand that you can seal the crack from outside on the visible part of the foundation but about the hidden part of the foundation. Since it is the hidden foundation which I am concerned about so we don't know if the solution actually made up to outside wall and not just accumulating there instead of moving upward.
Essentially, the surface paste seals the inside of the crack, the soil on the outside will provide the seal on exterior. When you inject into the first port, for every inch in the epoxy goes, it will go an inch up and an inch down. The epoxy will penetrate to the outside dirt and then begin to fill upwards until it reaches the next higher port. Repeat these steps until you fill the entire crack. I hope this helps answer your question.
Hello Jay, I have a question for you. I purchased an LCR kit but all it is is the tube of Epoxy that you have in your video. The instructions just say clean the area and apply the epoxy in the crack. It doesn't have the paste or injection ports. Is just using the epoxy a bad idea? It seems like it would be difficult to do with out those other components.
Is it me or not the top 1 but 1 right before top it looks like cap popped off and lcr was pissing out. I could be completely wrong but on my phone it looked like it
For repairs such as a broken flower planter, you would not need the LCR Repair Kit as just the LCR Epoxy Cartridge would suffice. The LCR Epoxy Repair Paste would also work well especially if there are multiple pieces to glue back together. Both products can be seen here... www.polygem.com/products/lcr-liquid-concrete-repair-basement-foundation-crack-repair-products
The math on 24 feet of 1/16" crack should require six -10 ounce LCR Cartridges to fill. 24 lineal feet of crack is approximately 3 - 8' long cracks and each LCR Kit is designed to provide enough materials to repair an average 8' Crack 1/16" wide so you should need 3 LCR Repair kits to complete the job.
Hello! You can purchase at our online store here... www.polygem.com/products/lcr-liquid-concrete-repair/lcr-complete-repair-kit We also do sell through many Menards locations here in the Midwest.
Didn’t work very well for me. The cartridge wouldn’t allow me to pull it up, nor could I mix the cartridge. The plunger was stuck in the tube. Then when I started injecting the poly blew out from the bottom of the tube. Ruined my caulk gun 😤
We have this same issue! First 2 tubes worked fine. Then tubes after that the bottom of the tubes were breaking in the caulk gun. Not sure what we are doing wrong and very expensive to have them breaking. Any tips on how you fixed?
this could be a good product, but the paste takes too long to cure vs competitors. hours to cure vs .25hrs. if you have a leak when injecting, good luck. you can paste it over and wait another 4-6 hrs for epoxy to dry and reconnect with another tube bc old one is now roc km hard. had three tubes that would not inject into crack, and i could see the crack in the port before injecting. if u dont have structural problems then look at polyurethane as an option. I spend $90 on 3 tubes that couldn't be used and lcr all over floor and my face bc of back pressure when trying to inject.
Greetings David, first I want to give our reason for the "slow curing" paste. A large percentage of our customers have never mixed epoxy before and we made the decision to supply one of our slower, more user friendly epoxies that we feel will help customers avoid having mixed paste setting on them before they could apply it. We do have our #1003 fast-set crack paste that is used by professional waterproofers that is available seperately here: www.polygem.com/products/waterproofing/crack-pastes I am also very sorry you had a bad experience with the cartridges. Since this is a thin epoxy liquid, there is a limit to the amount of pressure they can handle as too much pressure can cause them to leak out the back. A firm hand shake squeeze is more than enough pressure to inject the epoxy resin into the crack. You make an excellent point that polyurethane is an option for wider cracks and we do offer polyurethanes as well here: www.polygem.com/products/waterproofing/polyurethane-grouts If you ever have any questions or would like to personally discuss your experience, please feel free to call me directly at 888-446-3987 Jay Schmid - President
