To the point and always mentions important related info of the job at hand and a thorough job…all the info one would ever need…sharing so much expertise…❤
Keep up the good work P&D, love your videos. Not only do I learn such useful tips but I find your videos very relaxing, they have an asmr effect, I watch some multiple times, I already know the information but I just enjoy watching and feeling relaxed, thank you so much, love your channel!
I had to do this recently on a oak stairs. I raked it all out and protected the oak stairs with paper tape masking then done the foam once dry cut the excess off then caulk the top line let that dry off then next day another caulk to bring it level with the stringer and painted it into to the dark wall colur. Wam bam looks mint now.
Did a similar job on a three storey staircase, told the owner it would be a bit invasive as had to rake out 20 years of fillers. Foamed the gap & finished off with Toupret, went back 6 months later & not a single crack. Burlington Hotel in Torquay advert on the newspaper was funny as we used to live (part time) next door to the Burlington & used to watch the weekenders arrive by coach.
It partly seals a porous surface so paint has a better key, and time to dry. If all the moisture is soaked out of the paint too quickly, it just leaves pigments on the surface. This can form a unstable surface for subsequent coats. Thanks
Not necessarily, foam will take the easiest route and try to head back out of the gaps. Once it hits a surface it'll start to move in another direction. The only time it will push something off the substrate is if it's not fixed properly
A friend was telling me excitedly about his new foam gun with the extended nozzle...then said immediately afterwards about it being a nightmare to clean, requiring a special solvent. I'll stick to my Genius Gun, thanks. Btw, you and your family are welcome to a stay on the Mid Wales coast, if you're ever at a loose end and venturing out of your secret Northern lair. I have a feeling you meant going somewhere slightly warmer though...
The special solvent is only Acetone. Its very inexpensive and if you buy the gun grade foam in bulk, it's usually included. Appreciate that not everyone has the need for bulk buying however. Also, as long as the gun is screwed up tight after usage, the can of foam attached should last for months. It's much more cost effective than buying the single use cans. P.s. That holiday in Mid Wales sounds wonderful! 😃
Thank you for the kind offer.. but your right in thinking hot. Somewhere Like Cornwall 😁 and for the guns, I can imagine if doing loads of foaming, then it probably is worth the cleaning. But we only use small amounts at times.
@@PaintingandDecorating with the guns you don't need to clean them very often at all..all you do after use is tighten up the needle and it's ready to go next time. Can be left for weeks and weeks without any problem. Wouldn't use the hand held stuff again to much faff and cleaning up
It would definitely crack again using your method. The aim of the game is to try to reduce or even stop movement between the 2 surfaces. Without mechanically fixing every couple of inches, foam is the best alternative. The elastic / acrylic fillers are flexible for a while but then they dry out and become brittle so on a stair stringer would fail in a few months. Seen it many many times. 👍
I just tried filling some gaps between my ceiling and an exposed brick feature wall. It just exploded out every time I pulled the trigger no matter how gently. Got in a right state😢
Love watching u..so funny..the basics are right but my god you're a butcher..look, if u going to go right back to wall, do it right! i use sharp 1inch chisel, knock it down proper, not a blunt stanley knife! ffs..then sand it all down , i get leccy sander on it and the carbon paper, sand it smooth best u can BEFORE the foam goes in! then get the foam proper in! most of yours was just sat on top! cracks back within 12 months ..i use polyfiller 1st fill, but on stringing finish with wood filler! u were never trained, and it shows up so many time...DIY lads love u..as they know no better...old school decs like me...roll our eyes
I can tell by your comment you do not do this very much. May be the blade has worn and gets changed, but you don't understand this. You take your time, you don't go at it with a chisel and hammer. Bait comments funny .. 🤣
@@PaintingandDecorating actually u do go at it with a chisel and hammer! steady away, gently tapping it down .."i don't do this very much|" my 50th year..and never advertised last 31 years..already booked into 2024...close to retirement..i am Leeds top dec tho...prob best paper hanger in Yorkshirer ..u scare me when u paper..u cant hang pal//u still score paper with your shears and peel back and cut with scissors! omg no 1 does that anymore..straight edge and blade..unless a small cut...u even cut in backwards! if u had been trained that's a no no...but hey u make me laugh...
They already do this in most new builds. Most of the time the house builder will use quadrant but I've seen on occasion a piece of trimmed down architrave. In every single instance the quadrant / architrave has also cracked. The key is to reduce the movement between surfaces, any beading will just spread the movement out. All the best. 👍
