COULD NOT DISENGAGE MOWER BLADES ON 42" CRAFTSMAN MOWER DECK.THIS IS A MECHANICAL TYPE NOT A CABLE.BRANDON MOWER SUGGESTED I TAKE EVERYTHING APART AND CLEAN ,BRUSH,OR GRIND ALL WORN SURFACES AND COAT WITH NEVER SEIZE.WORKED JUST FINE.
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ru-vid.comUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
I have a 1698 Version of this mower. I NEVER pull out the deck to change the belt. Last January, I replaced both spindles, both blades, did an oil change. Used the same belt. Now, 5.5 months later I replaced the belt but had a problem inserting the PTO lever, the part facing the front that sits in a little hole in the blade engagement movement. I must have looked four different ways and finally found out how the notch is oriented and it just plopped in there! Success. Thanks for the video my friend.
we have a slightly different craftsman mower but the way the video is shown is very informative. Our Craftsman manual is so grainy and this video really help us see the details on the idler arm. Great job!
Gary, I decided to fix the deck on my LT 2000 and your video was a big help! It worked great, now I have another back-up mower for my place. Thanks for the video!
Hiya Gary if you're still around. So there aren't many of us left and that's a fact. I can't break my old style mower (rods...not cable) good enough to get the new one I want. Thanks to you and a couple of others I had a good idea of what to look for when I went in. Without these vids I woulda just been there scratching my head and drooling I expect. Ha. First, this is a two person job unless you're some kind of die hard 'do it all myselfer' type. It helps to have help when horsing that deck around. Turns out there are four easy pins to knock out and a couple of sneaky ones (plus flipping the drive belt off the front motor pulley) and the deck goes splat. This is where the help is handy when it comes to getting the deck out from under the mower, and vice-versa. I called my son who is good about stuff like that. And he found the problem. What he discovered once we had removed that plate (with the help of a little WD40) was that one of the edges which contacts the little rollers had sharpened itself to the point that it was inserting itself between the roller and the roller holder...just jamming good. He colored the shiny edge with a Sharpie to prove his point by working it a few times. Ed took that plate and put it on the grinder and blunted the edge. We put it back together (second time) and it worked better than it has in a couple of years. If there are still any deck parts around to be bought I never found them so your bush fix has to work...else you have a fine go cart. Good luck with your project! Super thanks to Gary once more. You done good. A lifesaver! (PS, we only had one cotter pin leftover. I guess I'll figger where it went when something falls off!)
I have a 2004 LT2000 and have had this problem for years. Reconditioned the deck a few years back and it was OK for awhile, then it started failing to disengage again. I have an old 1992 GT 6000 with electric PTO and have never had this issue. Just replaced the PTO last year...25 years of service. The deck on my LT2000 is rusted and done so it is now just a “tower not a mower”, but I’m done with manual PTO’s, I just ordered a new craftsman pro series 46” with the electric PTO.
I've had this problem on every Craftsman lawn tractor I've owned over the years. I clean the mating surfaces with a belt sander then touch them up by hand with 100 grit sand paper in a circular motion. I use a liberal amount of white lithium on the mating surfaces. This last time, I also added a washer under the brake arm assemblies which helped everything move more fluidly.
Thank you for this video! I have this same mower and I took it apart and couldn’t remember where a certain part went, I found your video and was able to see exactly where it goes! Thank you!
I had the same issue with a 1994 LT 4000. Sprayed all the linkages and whatever I could find connected to the blade engagement lever, and that seemed to resolve the problem. Your video was very informative. Thanks
this is the exact opposite of my problem. blades wont engage. thought it was the belt and after a dozen or so hours found out that it's the clutch not engaging. thanks man you saved my bacon
Great explanation. Unserdaffon said it for me. I saved it to favorites and will tackle this fix in the morning. Like I've always said. Things always look better with "morning eyes." Thanks again and will let you know
Last time I had my deck off I used a grinder to knocked off all the rust then I sprayed a generic Version of rhino bed liner all over the deck , that was 9 years ago. Other than a mandrel bearing or two I've had no rust , no pitting, no problems.
Same issue with mine, took deck off cleaned up ,oiled up now l will give the rest a shot Thanks for video. P.S. fyi,, Anyone taking deck off, I found it help full to tag the cotter pins makes it easier when putting back.
the big washer or spacer you're handling is hardened steel and the plate that actually swings is soft and wears out. they sell a kit that includes the plate and the arms for each of pulley brake that have all the little small idlers you were trying to clean up . Cost of the kit under $30 well worth it
i fixed one recently and vibration caused the roller to wear a notch in the flat plate, making it hold and "pop" out when it did come out. eventually would not come out. i filed the plate smooth and it works good but the issue will return
Just found this after experiencing the same problem. I have a 13.5 hp briggs in a late 1990's craftsman lawn tractor 42" blades as well. I didn't bother tearing it apart, I just sprayed every joint I could with WD-40 and held the blade shifter into the on position until I herd it pop. I could have broken it that way, but I was in a wanting to get shit done mood today. It worked out in the end and I think I can get another year or 2 out of the mower if not more.
I noticed this deck is also missing a return spring. it was added by the factory on some models to help return/disengage the blades. you might want to look at other craftsman decks to see its location/placement. it's as simple as drilling a hole & adding the spring.
my 42 inch craftsman got to where it wouldn't engage/dis engage. i found the two small rollers on the deck that apply the pulley brake worn and would pinch the camplate at the bottom of the roller.put a washer on top of roller to reduce clearance on botton yet still roll solved the problem
I have the same problem and it seems to be quite common. The mower won't start, not because of the blades, but because of a safety switch located under a bellcrank below the dash panel. You can see it when you remove the fuel tank. Don't disable it. This is the proper fix, other than a new deck.
As old as these things are mine has the transmission problem,I had another model,too much work to change .Could not get screws loose nor could I get one of the wheels off the shaft,beating only knocked it out of the transmission.Solution ,go to Lowes and bough a new Pony.
Thank you neighbor for helping me with my mower. I'm over here in Plant City, FL. Do you work on mowers? I have the exact same one. My mower guy left me hanging and its very frustrating trying to figure out how to repair this ole'mower. I put new blades on and I think I had them on wrong fixing them now well see. Changing out the blades another pieces came off the mower. I think I know where it goes as I found it through your video. Thank you for your time.
I have the same deck set up and I’ve been working on it for days. I’ve put every single piece in vinegar and scrubbed them clean and repainted everything. But no matter what I try, I cannot figure out how the get the sliding mechanism to lock back fully (so the brake pads on the pulleys are out of the way) and so when it’s disengaged, the belt has enough slack for the front pulley so it doesn’t burn. Hope that makes sense. What belt do you use for yours? It might be longer than the one I’m using and still work so maybe that will help
I have the very same problem. Well well Looks like I got some cleaning to do. Thanks so much. I hope mine works this well when I'm done. My starter don't want to start the engine also and I'm wondering if that is because it is trying to start the motor and turn the belts at the same time putting extra stress on it?
Spoiler alert: he drops the deck, disassembles the plates, cleans and lubes everything... and all's well. At the very end he engages and disengages the blades WHILE MOVING BACKWARDS! Not supposed to be able to do that. Somebody has bypassed a Mommystate safety device. Congrats! PS @3:36 if you pause and look at the top of the flat curved blade plate near the bottom, the action has worn a dip in that curve that ne3ds to be ground or filed out of there for a smooth continuous curve or it will hang up again in the future. At 4:49 of ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TxMZTnqwuBk.html Johnson's small engine repair slaps a new blade disengage plate replacement part on there. NOT required if you have( or can take yours to) a grinder or file it smooth.
Good afternoon you can tell me what is the number of the band for the blades and the transmission to replace them, since I have a tractopodadora equal to that, only I can not get the bands. Greetings and thanks.
I am about to put a new belt on my LT2000. Because I easily managed to pull the old belt out, I think I can put a new belt on without removing the blade deck. There is a cable sticking up parallel with the blade engagement lever in the dash. It is not connected and just slides through the locking hole when the lever is moved. What is this cable for?
i have an older model of a craftsman mower, where the idler pulley spring attaches right above the pulley itself n to part of the deck. what causes it to break? I'm having to order a new one. I'm afraid it's going to happen again because it's done that twice.
What is the correct belt size. I put an 88 on it and it works pretty good while engaged, but when you disengage the blades the belt starts flapping around making alot of noise. Any help with the correct belt size would be clutch.
+Dickey Moore Yes ,if it is engaged you can't get it started without pushing really hard to find neutral. If you have this I'm sure you need to make this adjustment anyway.
Disconnect all that safety shit. Take the black ground wire off the engine. I can jump off my machine with engine running, blades spinning, and it's great. For you safety guru's, if you text while you mow, leave the safety shit connected.
