On the idler pulleys, I drill out the spot welds/rivets take the 2 halves apart replace the bearing (usually a 6203) about $12-14. Or buy on line for about $2 each. I buy 10 at a time. It takes about 10 to 15 minutes to replace the bearing. Where you save money is the next time the bearing needs to be replaced, takes about 15 minutes to remove from mower, replace bearing replace on mower done. Much cheaper than paying $15-30 for a whole new pulley. Just a suggestion. I had a Craftsman GT 5000. A very good machine. 25 horsepower Kohler 6 speed manual transmission.
I have a Craftsman Gt 5000, it has what looks like the same engine, but the data tag says its a Kohler Pro. I took my mower dec off last fall and power washed it, then used a wire brush in an electric drill to remove rust, then primered both the bottom and top then painted with high gloss black paint. Looks good and no rust holes or blisters. Mine is a 2004, I bought it used, in 2020, the gentleman that had it, had parked it in a shop building and hadn't used it for over 5 years . We put a battery in it, primed the fuel system it started up, ran rough for about 30 seconds then took off and been running great ever since. I also put another engine just like it on an old Murry 40 inch cut. It really works great on that old mower. The Murry had a 12.5 horsepower Briggs, double the horsepower is great. I always thought riding mowers were under powdered
On the noisy bearings in the idler pulleys I drill out the spot welds or rivots with 1/4 inch drill and separate the two halves. Take out the bearings, get the part # off of the bearings and order new ones. Put the new bearings into the pulley halves and put the two halves back together with 1/4 20 screws and locking nuts. Saves alot of $
Doug, I have done that before myself. Except I ground the heads off the rivets does the same thing though. That's a very good tip, your right saves a lot of money
You can backyard adjustment if you've got the slotted hole on you're on your deck don't there were the boat go through the bottom some of them were slaughtered and some of them were slaughtered holes if you have the salt in when you come back at all for a little bit😅
That GT 5000 looks good. I like mine, but i have too many so I'm going to sell mine. I will keep my Murry 40 inch cut, its more practical for my yard. Plus I love the extra horsepower ( 25 horsepower Kohler Pro V twin) its easy to handle and takes less time to cut my yard. The GT 5000 Did a great job when i had nearly 2 acres to cut. Now I'm about 1/4 acres.
All you gotta do on this small hole is take a washer on either side of it and well it didn't stack washers on it to thick in the metal in the thin area and what I would do if you do that I would paint it with some tractor paint on both the top and bottom I usually use that bed liner from rustolyum on the bottom side
Are the screws imperial or metric? This may seem like a weird question but there's more and more of USA-only models imported here to Europe and some of them seem pretty interesting alternatives to what we typically have here.
just curious if anyone knows the model number or year. i have one yhat looks like this but all info is gone from it. it was junked cause it caught fire. i rigged it to run with hot wire. it's a beast.
@@paulthompson7227 if the starters getting 12 volts and still won’t turn over than you have a bad starter. If it’s not then the solenoid is probably bad, hope that helps and thank you for watching!
I actually didn’t hook them up but all you need is 12 volts from the battery or charging system to go to a switch and then to the 2 prongs on the headlights. I hope that helped and thank you for watching!
i just bought one of these and some wires disconnected and i cannot figure out what they went to, think i could get a few pictures off you of some connections?
Unfortunately I sold this tractor a while ago. I’d say your best bet is to try and find a picture off google or try and trace the wires back to see where they go, hope that helps. Thank you for watching!
Won't you tighten that up you're gonna have to go with the longer belt most likely because you're gonna take the slack out of it which is gonna make that belt even tighter and it might either break or choose the bearings up you just put in so be mindful of that when you're checking itWon't you tighten that up you're gonna have to go with the longer belt most likely because you're gonna take the slack out of it which is gonna make that belt even tighter and it might either break or choose the bearings up you just put in so be mindful of that when you're checking it If you put the blades on and the belts too tight the belt will kind of have a deck what kind of jump and vibrate you know
