I am on my second year with my T100....so far so good....no problems....a little tip for you....if you have the little tray funnel that came with it to change the oil.....turn the wheels all the way to the left or right (don't remember which way) and the little funnel will fit under the steering rod up to the drain plug....I think you will like the tractor the more you use it.'....I stored mine in a shed all winter after removing the battery and bringing the battery into the house and ran it out of fuel....Just this past weekend I put the battery back in it.....fueled it up and it started right up.
I don’t hate on the MTDs like so many people do. If you go easy on it, it can last you along time and parts are easy and cheap for them if you turn your own wrenches. My father in law has a 21 year old Walmart bought Yard Machine that still looks, mows, and runs great. BUT ... your new mower isn’t the tank that the old Snapper was. If your still mowing with that Craftsman in 30 years, it will speak more to the excellent care and attention you gave it far more than the ruggedness of the MTD products.
I need to get another one of these MTD chassis mowers. I had a Yard Machines branded 38" one with the same 344cc OHV Briggs engine that used less fuel to mow my yard than a 20" push mower with the Briggs 3.5 HP flathead did. Sadly mine was stolen. We had moved and temporarily left it behind to keep the old property mowed and one day we went to go mow and it was gone. Mine was model number 13AH762F752. If you image search that model number you'll see just how little has changed. Tips: Watch for wear on the CVT belts, if you do very much driving at top speed you can smell them getting hot and they start to crack and lose chunks after a while. A couple of the older MTD chassis mowers had a 2 speed transaxle so that you had low range for mowing and high range for road gear resulting in less belt wear, I wish that these had it too. Also, these OHV Briggs engines sometimes like to blow the head gasket between the cylinder and pushrod passage, I always started mine by leaving the throttle governor set to idle and leaning forward enough to push the choke wire loop with my finger before turning the key that way there is less peak cylinder pressure and hence stress on the head gasket by not trying to go straight to full governed RPM with a cold engine. If you watch the linkage on the left side of the engine as you push the throttle beyond fast and up to choke you can see the lever push the wire loop I'm talking about. On the note of valves the lash has to be checked and adjusted annually if you don't want to fry your starter. They wear loose so the compression release stops working and the wimpy starter then can't spin it past the compression stroke.
I just bought a new one & couple things I don’t like. The reverse module where the key goes…if that electronic module fails it will lock out Reverse mode. Also I’m not happy with speed control switch vs a throttle that’s either hand or foot controlled. Adds wear imo on clutch/brake system. We’ll see? Just like newer complex cars/trucks vs old school…keeps engineers busy but bad on maintenance end.
You might want to hang on to that snapper if you don’t wanna fix it take it to the shop have them fix one thing at a time on it by the time you’re done you’ll have a new tractor that’ll last for 20 or 30 years
They are certainly built like tanks and very serviceable machines. Probably not the last one I'll own, just need something to get mowing this spring. Thanks for the comment!
Any updates on the T100... purchased one about a week ago and so far no complaints. Just wanted to see if any other owners had some tips or things I should be observant of.
No big complaints. The safety features took some getting used to (my old mower had none). I find I get a better mow with a clean deck and leave a line on my right side when I don't (or am cutting too much off). So far, pleased with the purchase.
@@chanthana7694 besides a few hiccups with the safety features that I've resolved, I've had the parking brake get stuck. It took a hot minute to reset. Now I dont set the parking brake at all and always place in Neutral before killing the engine.
I've had a new T100 for almost a year. I had to buy a new battery for it because the crappy factory installed battery would not charge back up after the repair shop worker left the ignition switch on. (I had to put it in repair because something broke while I was cutting the grass for the first time.) Now it's working fine except it make an awful sound "cranking" noise when I engage the blades. I'm not sure if something is wrong or not. This is my first riding mower so I'm not sure what's going on with it. I actually find it hard to tell whether or not it's cutting. Seems like I had to go over spots a couple of times because I was not seeing any lines where the grass was cut. Sorry for "the riding mower rookie" horror story.
I've never had a riding lawn mower and I just purchased this model. I'm embarrassed to say it keeps dying on me. I don't know what all the pulls/levers are for and the manual does not have the information. My neighbor tried explaining it to me, gave up, and offered to mow my yard for me. lol
It does have a bunch of fancy safety interlocks I don’t like. Like blade stop if you adjust your butt on the seat. Can’t back up with the blade spinning. There are ways to override them but I wish it were easy.
I have the same issue. Realized it was me and the safety features. My weight isn't enough to keep the seat from lifting when I'm mowing my ditches or hit a bump in the yard. It would throw me forward and backfire everytime. Had to override that so my neighbors would quit calling the police for gun shots😂
@@onFIREouttakes after you start it turn the key back a notch and push the yellow triangle; the red reverse light will come on and you can mow in reverse. BUT if your butt moves in the seat ever so slightly, the reverse override will default back to dying with blades engaged when put in reverse. Red light will go off. I just reset mine. There's a disconnect for that safety feature in the wiring behind the key switch; video on RU-vid. Overriding the seat issue was enough for me to quit backfiring with every bump in the yard and neighbors reporting shots fired 😂
@@kimberlypayne8040 I did finally figure out it was pretty much the same for me except it was my short legs. When I pushed down on the lever my butt would come off the seat and it would die. So now I push the lever to start it and push down on the back of the seat and then sit back and I'm ok but then I also have a problem slipping off the seat If I am mowing uneven ground on my incline. I have to just skip that part and use the weed wacker on that area. It would be a great mower for a flat yard, but it's not the best for inclines like I have in my front and back yards.
I dont know about that thing , things look a lot cheaper made nowadays . The plastic and thin metal on the deck dont look good .It might last along time on a small yard that looks like a golf course.
