Plain and simple.....do not use gas with ethanol for any yard equipment that uses gas. Yes you can buy all kinds of treatment for gas and non ethanol gas is more expensive but believe me it is worth it.
If it's like the Scott's mower someone gifted me. A new carb with a new set of plugs, air and fuel filters was only $5 more than the carb rebuild kit. So I'd go that route
The wire unit connected to the bowl of the carb is the anti backfire/fuel silanoid. It has a plunger in it that raises and lowers. It could be going out and sticking in one postion or the other. It cuts off all gas when the mower is off, when on the retracts and allows fuel to flow into the carb.
I’ve owned mine since 5/2021 and never had issues like you have. I’m thinking the first issue that you had was that it had no oil in it or maybe the wrong oil
Wait….You got a Full refund, and was able to keep the Mower?….I don’t know if I would have an issue with this purchase. A brand New mower for the cost of a Carb? Not a bad deal…
As someone else said, you need to put a new carb on it. It will run fine if you do that. There is something wrong with that carb. It seems like your fuel cilanoid is going in and out cutting off the fuel. Also the govoner spring seems like its disconnected, reason why it wouldn't choke when you put it on choke. It's an easy fix. New carb, put the gov spring back on. #1 first is put new carb.
It sounds like you have two problems. With the carb having been apart at least twice and now flooding and no throttle response, I would replace it. If that carb came with a fuel shut off solenoid, the new one will also come with a new one attached. That will solve two possible issues, and probably the throttle response also. Like you said, you had spark, combustion and fuel. That means the engine is not the issue (originally). What you have is most likely a malfunctioning safety switch. You will have at least three. One for the brake, blades, and seat. The seat switch is usually the problem, especially since it shut off while you were riding it. And sometime started and ran for a while afterwards. (Seat swithes take a little beating while the mower is moving and they also cause the most problems. Their are two possible ways to check if the switch is bad: one is on some wiring systems the switch can simply be disconected and that nutualizes it and the engine will then start (some switches are wired so that if disconnected the engine will not start). The other is to put on the parking brake and try to start it, that also nutualizes the seat switch. The last way to check if is a switch is to unplug the kill wire. That is a black wire coming down from underneat the tor engine cover, goin to the egnition switch, usually located on the starter side. (You will have to plug it back in to stop the engine). Carbs and switches are cheap, I would replace both.
Theres a throttle cable that runs to the carb. Theres also a govoner rod with a tiny wire/spring. Google images. The govoener rod works in conjuction with a tiny spring with a long tiny wire connected to the carb. If that get disconnected it will do exactly what yours is doing.
If you’re talking about the pigtail one time I unplugged it and then it worked more afterwards, want to get this figured out I have to mow 5 acres soon
I have a craftsman t 110 and I want to upgrade to a t 240, but this one seems similar to the t 240. Can you wash it with car soap? Can you wax it like a car?
THE ULTIMATE SECRET...install a shut-off valve into the 1/4" fuel line, either before or after the fuel filter. OPERATION: When shutting down the mower after each use, do not turn off the ignition key. Leave the key on. Instead, to shut the mower off, turn off the shut-off valve on the fuel line. The engine will run until ALL of the gas has been used up within the carburator - and the engine will die. Now turn off the ignition key. EXPLANATION: Relying on the anti backfire/fuel silenoid on the carburator is the big problem. Gunked up gas always causes the solenoid to stick in the open or closed position. Gas that is left within the carburator will clog it up in just a few days. I have an old 1952 8n Ford Tractor. It originally came a gas shut-off valve. This is the old and superior design that works without causing problems. I struggled for years with these stupid problems. Each year, in October, I turn off my Craftsman & Cub Cadet mowers using this shut-off valve on the fuel line. Then, in March of the next year -- I turn-on the Shut-off valve -- and all the mowers start right up on the same gas used previously in the tank. The old farm tractors hold the secret. Today's engineers have bad ideas that cause stupid problems. Install fuel shut-off valves on every small engine that you have. They only cost a few dollars.
My guess is that you're using gas with ethanol with that Briggs and Stratton engine. I have a Craftsman push mower with a Briggs and Stratton engine that you cannot use gas with ethanol in it at all. I have, and I had to take apart the carb, and clean the jets to get it to run again.
Not a genius, but probably just a cheap carburetor. They don't build machines worth shit these days. Hurts to hear about your problems. Please keep us posted as to how your mower is doing. I will send you some prayers. God bless
