Calvin, I've started rehabbing bikes at our local bike co-op. I had no idea how many different bikes and components there are. Your videos and your Big Blue book keep me productive and a whole lot less frustrated. Thanks for your straight and understandable instructions!!!
Another great video! thank you! I just got myself a pcs-9 and have a number a jobs lined up. i could do some of it but i gotta be honest... you're way to smooth at explaining things in simple terms and i just love your passion for it all - can tell you've been in this business for a while. park tool for the win:) love from the UK
Hey there, excellent video, however I’m not sure mine was mentioned, I have a hexagon 14mm nut both sides covered my little rubber cap and I’m guessing the one on the right (next to the crankset) goes through to the other side, it’s an SR SUNTOUR model and I’m assuming it’s a 2 piece crank, how do I undo it?
i am a noob at bikes and stuff and basically i want to put on a new crankset on my mtb bike and i guess i have a 3 piece one.. can i put on a 2 piece one on it? or are they not interchangable? btw i want to do this all by myself without the help of a bike shop.. for fun
You can install a 2-piece where there was a three piece. It will mean replacing the entire system. The bearings will be different, and the spindle comes on the arm. You need to get one made for the width of bottom bracket shell you have. Measure the width, likely a 68mm or 73mm. -Calvin
Hi Calvin, great video, I like your videos always with explanations on how it works before how to do it. The left crank blot of my bike is lost. I like to find compatible bolt and fix it myself. How to figure out which bolt? The arm is ISIS drive type. I guess cap size and axel thread size are important. I see online stores carry blots for M8 and M15 etc. but I don't have knowledge on what they mean and how to determine the blot I need. Thanks.
ISIS bolts come in two sizes. Either an M15 or an M12. You can determine this by measuring the ID of the hole in the spindle. When you measure, the measurement will come out just shy of 15 or 12. This is because you are measuring the minor diameter and bolts are labeled by there Major diameter. I hope this helps!
ISIS drive cranks are one of the worst 3 piece interfaces ever . Sometimes removing them can be a nightmare , particularly ones with an outboard elliptical / slotted sides lockring from around the year 2000 .
Wow, I think this video has more material covered than most of the useless linguistics/diversity classes I had to take and write essays for, except this video is actually very useful and under 7 minutes packing it all in very well! As a mechanical and aerospace engineer, there are over a billion ways to solve a problem, and it looks like bicycle companies never could settle on one... well, at least this guy covers them well! Great video, you could have a degree in just bicycle repair from all these variations, I’m glad they got an expert on this subject, makes my life easier, thanks!
Greetings park tool, excellent video, I have learned a lot from you, I have only one doubt, I have a cannondale carbon 2 mtb 2018, which tool do I use to remove the crank arm from my bb30? three pieces, big hug from Portugal
Cannondale Si cranks have a special removal tool that is required. There are tricks around this so that you can use a common crank puller. If you find a washer that will fit the ID of the crank hole so that it the washer will push on the spindle then you can use something like our CCP-44 or CWP-7 with the large swivel foot.
Hi! I have an old bike with the Non Self Extracting crank on it. Is there any way you can post a video of give me information on how to remove it? thanks!!
Thanks for the video My question is can I upgrade the crankset on my specialized Allez Comp For a 105 crankset. What I should know about I really appreciate Thanks
Hi sir. Wouldnt there be any serious issues if I use an 8 speed crankset ( shimano claris r2000 to be specific) on a shimano tiagra 4700 10 speed system?
True story: several of our crank videos were briefly demonetized by RU-vid due to the name of that standard showing up in the title or description. We had to write an appeal letter explaining that our videos were not, in fact, about the terrorist group. - Video Guy
Isis is also actually a woman's name in many countries. I've seen it also for an engineering hydrodynamics calculation software (that predates the terrorist group). Those terrorists basically killed a lot of acronyms for stuff.
I have a set of Shimano 431 octalink cranks where the brooching was done in each arm but with a 0.5 degree error between them which is a rare slipstream quality control "FAIL" that ended up in my spare parts inventory new .
I'm new to cycling and I can't figure out if a particular crank set that's on sale will fit my current road bike. How do I be sure before purchasing it? :'(
Yo how come your shortcut video links do not work? You guys rule and thank you so much for putting the time in for these video. Is there a park tool set I can purchase for beginner bike maintenance ?
You can’t charge 5 grand for a bike with a square taper bottom bracket, it’s gotta be fancy , don’t you know, even though it performs the exact same function.
I want to pull the crank on my 1985 Schwinn Traveler to service it. But I,m not sure what thread size puller I need. any help would be greatly appreciated.
My crank has a nut on both sides. I think the crank itself is one that goes through both sides with bolt like arms or whatever. The left side has a large ring that tightens down to the frame to keep the shaft in place. That has 3 groves in it at 3 points. Not sure which tool is used to tighten or loose that ring. Other than using a wedge and hammer which seems very inefficient.
I don't see my 2020 Specialized Rockhopper Expert 1x crankset which has "stout" printed on the crank arms. @park tool can you help me figure which crank is my type and how to properly remove it?
I ws hoping to finally Get some understanding of the crank on my pre 1950 black bike. But then again, no. Anyone knows if Theres a video on an Old crank like that? Its seems like I have to open the bedt side with a hammer and a kind of pin-version of a screw driver? Help
I went to buy fat bicycle, the bike is fine but they have crank arm and pedals in some sort of hard plastic material should i buy it or find metal one?
Yes you can. It will take a bit more thought depending on what crank you select. Often MTB crank spindles and road spindles are different lengths. You need to accommodate for the different dimension when selecting a bottom bracket, or with spacers.
Hello, I just bought a vintage triple SORA crank-set but I don't know what length of bottom-bracket spindle I need? It's for my old school 8 speed road bike 45 cm. All I know its a Square Tapper JIS, English thread 68 Shell. : /
Yikes thats a tough one to figure out. What is the model number that is just inside the crank arm? It should be something along the lines of FC-3300 or FC-3303 or something along those lines. The crank arm length should be in the same section of the crank so a 170, 172.5 or 175 will be right above or below it.
Yep, my bike's got a cotter pin crank with the presspin, I believe we call this last piece of metal a 'spie-tje' (I'm Dutch) and this spie-tje is completely stuck, I've been banging it for 20 minutes now and it's freezing outside so my fingers are frozen... I'm not very happy right now.
The cotter pin system is not so good, as you have learned. The pins are made of softer steel, and will often deform when hit with a hammer. Sometimes there is not a happy ending here. Begin by getting the bike inside and warm. In fact get mild heat on the crank like from a hair dryer. You are hitting the threaded end, yes? If the threads are bent, you will need to snap them off, and then use a punch to reach inside. Even this is not always good because you can expend the pin as you strike it, making it harder to remover. It can often come down to drilling out the pin. Good luck.
I did it, haha, but now I have an axis which appeared to be pressed into the frame. I can perhaps hit the whole axis out of the frame but will I be able to buy something that will fit in it... this is the problem with an old bike and with old I mean this bike is probably more than 30 -40 years old. I've had it for well 15 years I think and never did any maintenance... terrible. It's been a very good bike, I'm afraid there's nothing I can do for repairing it now.
I have a 1996 TREK Mountain Track 820 with a Shimano Altus FC-CT91 Crankset. I'm having issues finding a similar crankset to install. It's a 38/32/24 tooth crankset. Can I install a different size crankset ie., 42/38/24? Would that work? Would appreciate anybody's input. Regards
This should be the same. Raceface chesters are pedals. I'm thinking you have a Raceface cinch style crankset and is a self extracting style crankset. These are very versatile and can be converted to different setups.
*These bikes are easier to work on compared to my cheap Glarewheel e-bike. No specs were provided, so I have to research and measure every part replacement and upgrade.*
Pedals are right and left specific so that could be the issue you are running into. There are 2 pedal sizes out there but the smaller 1/2 size is only found on one pice/ashtebula cranks and not on more modern 2 and 3 piece cranks.
Those can be difficult. The pin is pressed tight into the crank. A tool is the best method to un-press it and remove it. See an example here- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LSe4wQ0xSH0.html People often use a hammer, but that can be very hard to do. The thread bends and breaks. Then a punch must be used.
HELP!! i was just making restoration on my old bicycle and it has Ventura Crank (Italien brand) Arm which i want to remove, but the arm doesnt have threads that are fitting for crank puller... what can i do!? :(
okay so the crank arm of my bike broke and i was thinking if i could just change just the crank arm instead of buying a new crankset and also without changing my current gears.. i'm new to this stuff can someone experienced help me out?
that dude is a strick looking guy, if i were still a child i would probably scared to death just by walking down the path way of his house hahahaha,, anyways good channel and a lot of informative thing you got here
For best shifting and general performance you will want to have everything match. This means 8 speed everything or 9 speed everything. That being said using a 9 speed crank in that system should be no big deal. There might be a bit more rubbing in the cross chaining gears but will shift and go forward when pedaled. Hope this helps.
Careful azimuth or front derailleur cage trimming or slight spreading near the bottom of the cage can help with pliers but do so ever so slightly as this is really a balancing act and not usually recommended but it can still help .
Cranks vary in length depending upon brand/model. From 160 to 180, in small increment. The crank is a lever, so the longer the easier to turn. But it is also further around that circle. Shorter cranks can be turned a faster RPM easier. The knee also articulates (bends) more with longer arms, and that can be an issue for some. The body has levers as well in the femur lower leg, and these of course can vary in length. Then add in riding style, it is not a simple choice. But it can be. If you are new to riding, ride what you got for now.
@@parktool : Thanks for sharing that knowledge. I've been riding since 1994 & I still have today my Balance XR - 350 MTB. & it came with 175mm. Stuck with that number since. I remember my bmx had long cranks, too. I'm 5'6 at 150 lbs & 54 yrs. Young. Now, is there a formula between length of the arm's & number of teeth on the ring. Just curious. All I have to ride here in this part of Nebr. is the local BMX track. & figured the outer ring ( 46 ) & 4th on the 8 speed cassette is the way I can clear the jumps. Thanks again guys
wow... so many different cranks styles.. humanity is doomed now. two crank style is obviously not enough i guess designers need to make 30 different styles to confuse the shit out of us, maybe their local bike shops are probably contracted with these designers so will have to go the local bike shop to get install by technician and pay them instead , if we do ourselves it be too easy these local bike shop would be out of business with no job. that is my 2¢ theory
I disagree that the list will keep growing in time, I believe it will shrink. As this is just another sport driven by racing fashion, in racing what eventually prevails is what is lightest and works best, that is what separates the winner from the losers. Eventually almost everyone is winning by one system, the best. Then to sell bikes you have to simulate the same exotic system. You can simulate titanium with steel just by using more of it. Otherwise it is a great video, we can only disagree on speculation :)
