Creality Cr10S PRO - Fix your bed leveling issues (Inductive sensor install) 

Important info! Please read it. 1. Make sure that you order the right inductive sensor. Check the model number: LJ18A3-8-Z/BX , diameter 18mm DC 6-36V, NPN NO(Normal Open), Detect Object : Iron (Metal) Test your sensor before you connect to the printer! It seems that there are different variations of these sensors and wrong one could damage your printer motherboard. Here is how to test it: Take any power supply source from 6-36V, Take some power adapter in your home, like laptop power adapter for example. Connect blue to negative and brown to positive but leave the black wire out free. Now take the multimeter and check blue wire (negative) with the brown(positive) Voltage should be 23-24V. Now check blue wire (negative) with black wire(positive) and voltage should be the same 23-25V (Circuit open) Now place metal object on the sensor head. Led light should activate and voltage between blue and black(free) wire where it was 23-25V should drop close to or to 0V and voltage between blue (negative) and brown (positive) should remain around 24V. If your sensor don't work like that DON'T INSTALL it! That means you got different type of sensor like PNP or other type. Check test pictures on the link: goo.gl/q6Mfcy 2. Lower the inductive sensor more down to 3mm or less away from Heat-bed. In that case nozzle will be higher up and chances that nozzle touch or hit the heat-bed surface is minimal and it will give you even more precise measurements. 2. Upgrade the firmware to the latest one from Creality right now the latest version is 1.60.7(Works great and it saves all Autolevel probe measurements and Z offset and it shows them after power off... Here is how to upgrade CR10S PRO firmware: It's very easy. 1. Connect printer via USB cable to the CURA. 2. Click on Settings/Printer/Manage Printers/Select Cr10S 3D printer/Upgrade Firmware/Upload custom Firmware/Select firmware file CR-10SPro_1.60.7.hex and run it. 3. Wait minut or two... Done! 1.60.7 Firmware can be found here: www.creality3d.cn/creality3d-cr-10s-pro-p00253p1.html Also I got alot of questions about inductive sensor and glass so here is my answer: This Inductive sensor will work with glass sheet over the aluminum heated bed, but glass needs to be less then 2.9mm thick. The thinner the better. When sensor trigger on 2.85mm glass you have 0.5mm clearance from nozzle. It's not too much but it can work if you can't found thinner glass. Personally I use 2mm glass(1.92mm actually) and sensor triggers 1.35mm away from the glass bed. I have alot of clearance. Here are few photos with my 2mm glass where sensor triggers and how I set it up. drive.google.com/folderview?id=1z4Okyd85OK-rolp2ZkaUS3xgqnzXZtaE

My apologies for the run-on comment, I have a whole lot to say. I just wanted to thank you for your outstanding video quality. It seems that you are the only consistent budget reviewer, as you never seem to be biased, always supply the needed info about the subject machine, and never include useless filler info. Test prints are always shown in your videos, and the content "flows" well. You have been gradually improving your upload quality as well. 4K footage, clear audio, and detailed shots. I love watching your videos while making progress on academic work, as your voice is gentle, quiet, and un-interruptive, and you rarely include loud background music. Once again, my apologies for the lengthy comment, but I just have been so pleased with your recent content. Keep the videos coming!

I used this video 5 years ago to upgrade my machine. The part just failed today, and I was at a loss as to what I had done. So a huge thank you FOR A SECOND TIME for posting this video. :)

Just wanted to drop in and say this works great. I did this upgrade in conjunction with the T8 antibacklash nut (also done by Nexi Tech) and I can literally turn my printer on and just print. No need to level everything again. Absolutely awesome. You can also use a 3 pin JST connector instead of cutting the cable on the old sensor. This is what I did, and the JST connector fit just fine in the same socket as the old connector.

This video has been a huge life saver even these many years later. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge. Getting this new sensor has brought back the pleasure of using my printer. Many, many thanks.

I did the upgrade to an inductive sensor, and Z anti backlash springs. Finally, the printer works just as I would expect operation to go. I did add a G29 to my startup gcode and that was the final bit of magic to make it work great. I am using Tiny Machines 3D code (1.1.9 B7). Thank You, Nexi!!!!!

I've done so many upgrades now that I no longer call my printer "CR-10s pro v2", but instead, I call it "Nexi-mon". Love your videos and expertise!

My OEM level sensor failed and this was an easy fix that cost me less than $10. Great video, easy to follow! The only downside is that I had to give up my glass build plate. This sensor will not see the glass. I used my original aluminum one and removed the ripped up sticker. To be honest printing on aluminum is not that bad. Through the years I have learned that the best adhesion is getting the z-offset dialed in to give you a good squashed bead of material on the 1st layer. Also, a bunch of hair spray doesn't hurt. I highly recommend this sensor as a cheap easy alternative to the original one. The bltouch sensor seems a lot of work to install with connections to the board, jumper for the old connection, a custom printed holder and flashing the unit with additional software. This solution is a far easier and cheaper option and gives you much-improved level sensing. It took me less than 15 min to install this after sodering the old connector to the new sensor and I was printing again.

I would like to thank you for the best cr10s pro video I have ever seen, I have had my printer for just over a year, but because I just could not level this beast I gave up and just left it alone. but and I don't mean anything bad, but because of this virus that is spreading around the world, and as I have decided to just stay indoors, so the printer was given a new life, you have made my day, thank you

Thank you so much. I just sent back my first CR-10S Pro due to the fact I could not get consistent prints. It seemed the printer would not stay level. I'm definitely going to replace the auto level sensor with the one from the link when my replacement printer arrives. My first printer was a Ender 3 Pro and it has been a dream. it floors me how poor the setup was for the new CR-10S Pro was. When my printer arrived all the Z rode screws had fallen out and the fan was broken. Talk about some poor quality control Can't wait to try out your tips. Keep up the good work

Between this and adding the anti-backlash spring bolts my $75 marketplace CR10S pro is printing beautifully.

This video completely turned around my initial bed-leveling issues with factory sensor. I was getting few mm deviations over consecutive levellings. But with new inductive sensor, the deviations came down to less than 0.2 mm with repeated levellings. Been churning out good PLA prints easily, for past few days, since replacing the sensor. Btw, I didn't even solder; just twisted the bare wires & insulated with electrical tape - works perfectly. Thanks!

Your Videos are excellent. I just got a CR-10S Pro and before it arrived I watched this video and ordered the Inductive sensor. I got the sensor a couple of days after so I was having the same issue with the inconsistent first layers. I followed your video here and also upgrade the Firmware to Tiny Machines 3D version and things are running incredible. Thank you so much for helping the community.

When you pull the old sensor out, tape a piece of string to it and pull that through. Use the string to pull the new one back through the covering. It's a little easier.

Wanted to say thank you. My printer would stop working every winter (it gets quite cold where I am). That stupid capacitive sensor is affected by moisture and temperature. Using the inductive sensor is working very well.

The best video explaining leveling of this machine so far.

I bought the inductive sensor and I have watched this no less than three times, guess I am brave enough to try it this week. So sick of having to put on reading magnifier glasses, get a bright lamp and adjust Z on every start of every print, or else I get a ball of fuzz and no parts. Thanks Nexi you are great. Next Firmware maybe???

Just purchased the inductive sensor! looks like a must have, and for $9 you cant go wrong!

This guy deserve Nobel prize.

You saved my sanity! I had a faulty capacitive one that finally died. I didn't know what was going on until one day it wouldn't stop going down on Y axis, pushing into the the bed. I changed it with an inductive one and woks like a Swiss watch. Although, I'm not sure it's going to get along with a glass bed.

Problema de Z-Home solucionado! Excelente vídeo y guía, pero en mi caso cuando ingresaba al "Leveling Mode", hacía las dos primeras mediciones bien y a la tercera se estrellaba contra la cama y continuaba bajando, intentaba ajustando al altura del sensor una y otra vez y continuaba pasando lo mismo. Revisé que el sensor fuera el mismo de la referencia, ya que como lo había comprado del enlace de AliExpress me confíe, pero era la misma referencia, entonces pasé a leer comentarios y todos hablaban de que había que cambiar la board y estaba asustado hasta que encontré el comentario de Michael Poelzl dónde decía que había tenido el mismo problema y cómo lo había solucionado, así que intenté una variación de su método que describiré a continuación: Al entrar en "Leveling Mode" la impresora empieza a hacer el Z-Home, y cuando el carro iba a empezar a bajar la colocaba la galga para que detectara el sensor inductivo, hice lo mismo en las dos primeras veces y en la tercera vez que mide lo dejé bajar sin colocarle la galga, y miraba a que altura quedaba. Sí ven que se va a estrellar de nuevo apaguen la impresora antes de que se estrelle y vuelva a repetir. Después de hacer el Z-HOME usando la galga para que detectara antes, oprimí varias veces Z+ para cambiar el offset y volví a repetir el procedimiento activar el sensor inductivo apenas empiece a bajar con la galga y después de terminado volví a oprimir el Z+ varias veces. Para terminar volví a hacer el Z-HOME, pero está vez normal y el carro paró como a 15mm de la cama y con el Z- cuadré el offset a la distancia indicada. Espero les sirva y cualquier cosa escriben por aquí.

Just did this mod, and so far it is working fantastically with my Wham Bam Flexi system. Had to start with the sensor lower than level with the hotend otherwise it would decide to smash into the build surface and need an emergency power off to avoid damage. Once I did that I was able to adjust normally like you did - my offset is sitting at -3.90 with the Wham Bam plate and the sensor 2mm higher than the hot end.

Dude, this is the best video I have seen in a 3d printer tutorial, I have this exact same printer and I was getting depressed about the sensor. I am going to buy the sensor and follow your guide! Thank you so much. Earned a subscriber, do you have a donation page so I can buy you a beer?

First of all - This is a splendid and excellent video and very very thanks to that. I just got my sensors today (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX) and was sooo hapy to get this sensor in my CR10-SPRO. Everything worked good so far. (I´ve decided to crimp my own 3-pin plug on the new sensor to keep the original sensor as it is... fine :) But then the horrible next step to home the printer -> :( Sensor works (turns on the LED on metal approach), but in process of "printer home" the z-axis does not stop to get lower and lower (LED is on) -> Nozzle on printbed :( Printer off to save the motors I tried to switch the sensor back -> Z-axis stops as it should - sensor again to the new inductive one -> the same game as described :( Now I will try a second one, maybe the sensor is damaged? Anyone else an idea? thanks and greets from Austria

How you adjust the sensor to remember a new position - the old sensor has a screw and light the new does not. I do all stuff bought exactly the same sensor and install .. but won't remember the new position - I see you pressing the "z home" button but the printer going to the latest setup position the new one. Thanks. My print head now touching the bed with the nozzle when go to 'Z home position"

Damn it Nexi now you make me feel like I need to replace my probe! Great video as always.

Hey Bud, just followed your instructions and replaced my sensor with the inductive one from amazon. BIG THANKS! I actually got a better price on amazon canada for it! One thing to note, the plastic flat bar used for leveling sensor and sides, with my unit for whatever reason, with the nozzle sitting on a .2mm feeler and that plastic bar under my sensor the sensor does not engage, its just slightly too large of a gap, i tried it as is with apprehension, that was a mistake lol, punch a hole right down through the creality bed release cover and into the aluminum bed under it.. just a small damage, but enough that ill probably replace it now. my own fault for not being ready with something metal to put under sensor in case of emergency. live and learn. i ended up dropping it down like .3mm more towards the bed and set a Z offset to match the new height, printing my first test print now. so far so good. Thanks again. video was great detail and very easy to follow.

Fantastic ! I wish I would see your video before I sent this piece of crap back to Amazon for a reimbursment because of all the frustrations and anger I felt with bed leveling.

I just finished this changing of the sensor and works as it should. Also tested the sensor (Banggood version with blue end and black wire) first with a multimeter, as you told should be done. I also did the 3x fans change earlier too. Great work doing the video! Thanks!

The bltouch is still the superior abl probe, but i think for most users this is a very straight forward and easy to manage upgrade. Well done.

If your printer crashes into the bed when trying to adjust the z level then read this! Maybe I am not very clever but it took me while to realise that pressing the 'Z home' button will NOT reset the z axis offset. It only runs the z homing routine again and if the z offset is wrong it will happily crash into the bed. The only thing that changes the z offset are the Z+ and Z- buttons. Unfortunately it does not tell you anywhere what that value is. So in my case the nozzle always crashed into the bed when I tried to set the new z offset. The reason was that my previous probe was setup in such a way that I ended up with a large negative z offset as the correct setting. With the new probe (which does not have an adjustment screw) this meant that once the probe triggered there still was a large movement downwards which made the probe crash into the bed. I solved this by taking the probe out of the housing completely so that is was dangling on the side. Holding it in my hand I moved it much lower and closer to the bed so that the sensor was triggered way before the nozzle reached the bed when starting the levelling. So now with the first 'levelling' complete I then hit the Z+ button a lot of times to get the large negative offset back to something normal. To check the progress I used 'Z home' a few times (holding the sensor with my hand in an appropriate position below the nozzle) until the downward movement after the sensor trigger was small enough so that I could be sure the nozzle would not crash. Then i was in a position to continue the setup as per the video i.e. I popped the probe back into the housing and set it level with the nozzle. I then used the Z- button to lower the probe to the hight I wanted it at by using a piece of plastic underneath. Once there, I loosened the probe screws and again used the Z- button to bring the nozzle to the correct distance from the bed (with the probe being pushed up). I then retightened the probe screws and ran another 'Z home' to check the setup.

This is a great upgrade video, and I thank you for taking the time to make it. That said, I have reservations about cutting and soldering part of the electronics which, as you say, is required to perform the upgrade. The CR-10S Pro is a relatively new printer, however, so hopefully Creality3D will sell an upgrade kit soon to avoid any DIY work.

very cut to the chase, direct, clear, step by step instructions thanks for the effort.

I have been waiting for a video like this for some time. This is a great tutorial and I am excited to make the upgrade. Thank you sir.

I have a mirror bed and it's working but be careful to place sensor at about a credit card thickness, I forgot that it detects only metal so I placed it 8mm high at first, and when I Homed, the thing pressed so much on the bed that I tought I'd break the mirror or the motors or bend something on Z axis :(

One thing to notice is that your inductive sensor will not detect the build tack layer and only the aluminum under it (probably the reason for the little offset) now things go really south if like me your bed has a glass sheet in which case the inductive sensor is useless and the main reason that I still use capacitive sensors. Yes they are to some point a pain, but if you set the profile correctly in your slicer chances to have a bad first layer are non existent. But like someone mentioned I think a Bltouch will be better for bed leveling.

Thank you so much for this. I have this machine and it was actually faulty at the start. I have the new parts and you explain setting up very well.

Exceptionally well done! Clear video and audio. Thank you for using the correct tools. I definitely bookmarks this video!

I'm always wondering why Chinese brands make this kind of mistakes. A bltouch would have done the trick much better, because it works really well whatever kind of surface you are using on your plate. I have a BIQU Thunder Advanced and I though that I had almost same issues with autoleveling, but no, it was just my fault using that feature hehehe. It would be great to see a side by side analisys of both machines in your channel. Great video, by the way.

Very nice explanation but you can do a lot simpler, you can change the sensor without removing any screw in 5 minutes. - loose the two screws of the sensor and remove the sensor - cut the cable of the sensor (approximately 5 cm from the sensor) - solder the three wire of the new sensor - put the new sensor and tight the two screws it worked for me.

Tu eres increible, muchisimas gracias por este video, y sobre todo de como actualizar la impresora usando el cura,no lo sabia y es muy facil de hacer, GRACIAS SIGUE ASI!!!! saludos desde españa

Thank you for the great video. However, I had some problems with the 3.8 mm spacer. My sensor seems to require something like 3mm to adjust the Z-axis offset. I don't knoe why. But now it's working well.

Another great review and fix, I'm sold on that inductive sensor. Great find!

I finally got my sensor from Banggood. Over a steel desktop the sensor triggers around 8mm as expected. I tested over a 3mm thick Mamorubot build plate that I ordered from TinyMachines along with my printer. The sensor triggers 1mm above the build plate. Installed and tested and it works fine. I will see over time if this sensor is more consistent than the capacitive one.

Good video, Tiny Machines 3D did a video a month or so ago with that same levelling procedure - can confirm it greatly improved my prints. Will def try the inductive sensor upgrade. Thanks for uploading!

Personally, I have changed the SSR and fallowed the Th3d guide for calibrating the conductive sensor, and I now have consistent results.

Thank you for this video! I'm currently tracking down all the tools needed (I have like none of them). Hopefully this is the last upgrade for my printer! (did micro swiss hotend, wham bam & fans)

Would it be possible for you to share the 2 stl, the one with the 9 squares and the other with the disk please. And thx for the video, nice job it will help me a lot.

Allright, thank you really much :) You helped me so much... I ordered and replaced the old sensor with this one and my printer... Works again and is all the time good leveled :) :) Thumb up btw. I use Tiny Machines Firmware now, with original from Creality were some troubles and nozzle was pressing too deep.. With Tiny works nicely

I just bought the 3D printer with all the fix equipment you suggested. Now when I do the AUX leveling my Nozzel stay way far away for the heat bed surface like 5cm away! I followed you step by step but no look. Any help I'm really struggling with this printer. Edit: I fixed it by download Tiny firmware.

Subscribed. I have a CR-10S Pro and once I get some more play time I want to get that same first layer.

Great manual. Is there any way to get the STL for the "first layer test print" you are using?

Thank you so much for this video and information. Could you please tell me how to get your testing G-code(s) they look great

Wow Amazing Help for my, Thanks, you can Share the start gcode please

You have awesome instructional videos. Could you possible show one that explains how to add an induction sensor to a cr-10s? I don't have the pro and can't find any really clear video so far

I was adjusting the bed with the shim an then I noticed something. That inductive sensor is so sensitive that you don’t really need to adjust using the shim on the four corners. I adjusted the middle using the shim then moved the sensor to just come on. Then moved to the corners to check height of bed and adjusted the bed screw till the sensor light just coms on. Did that on all corners .... went around twice. Then went back to the middle of the bed and moved up and down on software adjustment till shim was set ... the zeroed out the setting. Checked over all measurement with software. Almost all numbers were .0 + or -... Maybe that’s what you all ready do ... but a lot simpler. Thanks

Loved your review of this machine ! Now watching this great job my friend. 👍😉 subbed ! ✌️😁

From crap prints to perfect using this video, FOLLOW the instructions and all will be perfect!

Hi, top video !! Can you put on the description the Gcodes for the leveling test please ?

Great video, as always. After reading your recommendations. I would like a simpler explanation. Recommend to lower the sensor by 3mm (in the video it was positioned at 3.81 mm using the acrylic piece) 1) So the sensor is positioned at 0.81 from the bed? 2) Or can the sensor be positioned between 3 and 2 mm, for a more accurate positioning? Clarify this doubt, the first or second option? Sorry if I misinterpreted, but be patient, risk and impact the nozzle. I'm your fance, so I want advice. Thanks B.S.

God... watching those first layer prints go so smoothly and then finish with that bed sized circle.....i think I cam a little...

I finally got around to doing this. One question, after installing the inductive sensor you set the height using the plastic shim. For me that height was too high, I had to drop the sensor a lot more so it would get a activated when the nozzle was at bed height. I have Tiny Machines 3D PEI surface on the printer so maybe that is why? The sensor is only a few millimeters higher than the nozzle which I guess is ok but not what I expected based on your video.

I have a noob question.... I installed the inductive sensor, and noticed it has no adjustment screw like the capacitive sensor. Do I just set the nozzle height to 0.2mm and then move the inductive probe to the height where it just turns on?

@ 2:25: you can just use re-pin the connector and be done with it. This is the long way around it.

Love the video and I'm going to enhance my printer. Can you let me have your 2 g-codes for the bed leveling?

I ordered from the Amazon link you gave. The part I received has no model number on it. However the package is labelled 5mm Inductive Proximity Sensor. I performed your test procedure (thanks!) and found that is functions with the same polarities as you described. So its NPN/NO, Unfortunately it triggers about 2.9mm above the bare heated bed, not anywhere near 8mm. So, thoughts on whether this will work?

Great! Thank you for your awesome Videos!

hey so I have this issue where it's working, and the led is lighting up, but for some reason no matter what I try, it just doesn't stop, it keeps going down. I thought it was cuz the wiring was bad or something, but I switched 3 different sensors and they all don't work (stock, this one, and the official one from the website)

Hi Nexi thanks a lot for this video! I want to know one thing before making the change, with the original sensor the adjustment is made with the screw, this sensor does not have a screw, how is that adjustment made?

Hi, Great video. One question: I've done everything like you, but is it normal that the printer make the 16 points bed leveling at each print I start? thanks

Hi I changed the sensor and I done all you explain in video but when i Press the Botton "leveling" the nozzle collides to the Plane... I saw many video and forum but I dont resolve this problem

The test circle is on Thingverse - CR10S PRO bed level test by Nexi-Tech March 07, 2019

Can you please share with us your starting and ending G code for each print. You do a fine job my friend.

I installed the new probe. I am having trouble with leveling. I follow the instructions, and it seems to work, but then when I try to auto level the head is driven into the bed. I have a wham bam type flexible bed cover does this probe work with that system? This is the only thing I can think of. Or, is there a way to erase the leveling settings and start over? thanks.

Perfect, I was mis-informed. Should have done what you did and got the meter out. I am curious why the sensing range seems limited to less than 6 millimeters.

Hey, I upgraded my printer with the same inductive sensor. The sad is that the sensor is not detecting the magnetic bed as metal. When I pass a knife or something metal below the sensor the light turns red. I mean it is working and the wiring if correct. What's the problem?

Thumbs up m8 again a super explication for fixing the sensor!

Does it matter if it's yellow or blue in the end? So if the number "LJ18A3-8-Z/BX" is correct.

This fix was working flawlessly until recently. Suddenly the Z homing is driving the extruder into the table even if the inductive sensor light is lighting up. Do I have a defective sensor or a failure to the conditioning circuit? EDIT: I tested connecting the original capacitive probe to the motherboard and that was working fine :-) This probably means that there is either something wrong with the sensor or that the firmware is not correct. I think I used tinymachine's firmware but have found that sometimes the menus are reverted back from english to chinese. Is the firmware upgrade necessary for an inductive probe to work correct? EDIT2: I installed the latest motherboard firmware (1.70.1) and now the inductive probe is working again.

Hi, got the sensor and replaced it like it was shown here. Thanks to the detailed tut. When I switch on the printer now the sensors light indicater is showing red from the start. No metal detection and no change of light. And yes I was taking care and ordered the right version like mentioned. Any idea?

Hey Nexi, I got a problem, hope you can help me, I change my probe for the same you linked, same code, the sensor is trigered, I mean the light turn on, but the Z still going down, I already swap de software to the same you linked, still doesnt work, what can I do :(?

Is there a way to get my hands on your two gcode test files?

Why they don’t ship the CR10S pro with the BLtouch sensor ? Would make the experience for me, or all the another beginners way way easier.......

Great video along with the Fan replacement, I have followed both.. A question though.. I am using one of the sensors from your link, Banggood one, and I have done exactly as you have described.. only thing for me, when probing the Sensor stops well above the bed, when probing complete all looks fine on the screen.. and when I go to print the offset is -3.13 and the first layer wont go down.. Any ideas on what to do

So I installed this sensor. And it does not play well with the tiny machines firmware. The first layer or to go down well but every layer after that starts squishing down on each other and makes the print look horrible. I had to go back to creality's most recent stock firmware and now it works really well.

Great video. I will give it a good. 😀

Great Video! Already bought the new sensor but does anyone knows where I can by this connectors connecting the Sensor with the plate? I want to solder it to another connector so I can Swap them out instead of damaging the original parts :)

What kind of torch did you use? The z axis issue has been bothering me for a long time. I like to follow what you did to fix it...

I purchased this sensor from Amazon and connected it as instructed, but it's horribly inconsistent when trying to zhome. I got it to work, somewhat, but the shimming method you described puts the sensor up way too high and it tries burying the print head into the surface. With a little trial and error, I'm able to offset the distance manually, but if the gcode is set to auto level, it will screw up the print job 100% of the time. I'm going back to the stock sensor until I can get a BTouch installed.

Great video! Would there be any issues in cutting the wire near the sensor end is of near the electric board end? If so, that would make the process easier.

Following your instructions my CR10S Pro works perfectly (almost). Occasionally I get a "clonck" from my extruder. This usually indicates it's too close to the previous layer and therefore can't dispense the filament it's moving forward. It happens not often but on a regular basis when printing the initial layer, and sometimes later in the print. Right now it happened at layer 6. I use 0,1 mm layers. It's not a problem but I wonder if you have an explanation. I have a CR-10S that doesn't do this on the exact same print. And I have a CR-10 S4 that dosen't do this.

6:25 This kind of levelling never happens. The extruder side of the bar is always heavy and lower than the other side. If I try to adjust by rotating one coupler, the coupler of the other side will also rotate due to spring action. Even if I hold one side of the coupler tightly and rotate the other, it will spring back to the same position as it was before. What else do you do to it?

Hi Nexi Tech, I really enjoy your videos and your work!!! Thank you so much for your efforts I'm having a problem with my cr-10s pro that I purchased recently, when it was printing a vase it stopped because of the laptop, that I use instead of SD card, when I try to resume the printing it bumped into that half vase, and after that I can't get it adjusted as you showed in this video with the same sensor, what it basically does when I go to leveling mode auto home it presses nozzle in to the bed so hard that it bending the bed, I'm so frustrated, I don't know how to solve this problem Any help would be greatly appreciated And thanks again

Excellent video! As always! Do you have an aliexpress or banggood link for the sensor? Nevermind, already bought from your ebay link. But this may help someone else.

Thanks for the great video! Way better with this sensor!

Nexi - is there any way you can go into more detail about the calibration of the new sensor? I installed mine per the video, and as I understand it, when the nozzle is on top of the .2mm feeler gauge, you want the light on the sensor to just turn on, correct? This is rather difficult to do, since there is no adjusting screw like the stock sensor. I'm having loads of trouble getting a nice 1st layer with the sensor upgrade on my Wham Bam build surface. A detailed calibration would be greatly appreciated!

Hi, what's the difference between AX and BX in the reference ? LJ18A3-8-Z/BX LJ18A3-8-Z/AX

Do you know if I can swap the bl-touch with this one for a cr-10 max?

Thank for very nice and very clear vidéo whitch will be useful for me

Hi, can you share the bed leaving gcode files that you used ? Thanks !