Creality Cr10S ultimate Heat-bed upgrade! 750W heater installed

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This is step by step tutorial that will make your CR10 or CR10S heated bed to warm up insanely fast and reach temperatures that was not possible before. With this 750W AC powered silicon heater printing ABS and other materials that require 110C+ degrades on heated bed is not a problem any more. Parts list are down in description.
-------------------------------------DISCLAIMER------------------------------------------------
Am not taking any responsibility if you are unskilled and inexperienced with electricity! AC voltage can be dangerous!
Use this video as reference or idea how this update can be done and what results it can deliver.
If you don't know what you are doing, found electrician to do this job for you.
If you have better way to do this update then please do it in your way.
If you want extra safety add ground wire to the bed and connect it to the ground on the power-supply ground terminal or on ground pin on the main AC plug switch.
Also for even more extra safety install Anycubic Ultrabase and don't use paper clamps and turn off printer when you removing the glass.
Thank you.
If you have Creality CR-10 or CR-10S use these parts from the list:
CR10/S 750W Silicon Heater - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DF7...
300x300 Insulation Cottons - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEU...
Solid state relay 25A - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A2NFhg
ULTRABASE glass surface for CR10/S - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dlm...
Isolate your wires with Heat shrink wrap - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_De5...
If you have CR-10 S4 (400x400mm) use these parts:
400x400 Silicon Heater (1000W) - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBg...
Solid state Relay - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A2NFhg
400x400 insulation cottons - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DF3...
Isolate your wires with Heat shrink wrap - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_De5...
Popular Online retailers:
Amazon.com - amzn.to/3k08g0K
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Aliexpress - bit.ly/2GWF50w
Banggood - bit.ly/2T0R8fG
Ebay - ebay.us/OJuoTs
Cheap filament for 3D printer:
PLA filament for 3D printer
On Amazon - amzn.to/2K6U99U
On Banggood - bit.ly/2pZSiwK
PETG filament for 3D printer
On Amazon - amzn.to/36RHEsz
on Aliexpress - goo.gl/8Cfsrb
ABS Filament for 3D printer
On Amazon - amzn.to/2K5S4LH
On Banggood - bit.ly/2CurLuc
3D printer parts and accessories:
CR10/S Nozzle different size: goo.gl/5QpRV7
3D printing surface:
Sticker: goo.gl/WTmmiM
BueTape: goo.gl/7vQMYp
Switch for PSU - goo.gl/sKzzkg
Rubber Timing Belt - goo.gl/3xtQPv
SCS8UU-8mm-Linear-Ball-Bearing - goo.gl/88pgGV
Gear that I use for my videos:
www.nexi-tech.com/gear-that-i-...
You like what I do? Support me on Patreon
/ nexi_tech
I put a lot of effort and time in my videos and I would appreciate if you click on the ''Like'' and ''subscribe'' button.
Thank you so much for your support.
Best Regards!
Nexi

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Опубликовано:

26 янв 2018

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Комментарии : 601

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

!!!!!!-----DISCLAIMER-----!!!!!! Am not taking any responsibility if you are unskilled and inexperienced with electricity! AC voltage can be dangerous! Use this video as reference or idea how this update can be done and what results it can deliver. If you have better way to do this upgrade then please do it in your way. If you want extra safety add ground wire to the Aluminium heat-bed or to adjusting screw and connect it to the ground directly or on the power-supply ground terminal or on ground pin on the main AC plug switch. Also for even more extra safety install Anycubic Ultrabase(that's what i did after this video) and don't use paper clamps. I'am afraid that using paper clamps over and over for long period of time may damage the heatpad and expose main wires. Thank you!

@tiberiocellini3641 6 лет назад

Nexi Tech can you show us how to put marlin on to try and get higher temperatures? Thanks

@guillep2k 6 лет назад

You should not have used common transparent tape to isolate the mains cables! Each cable should be individually isolated with heatshrink tubing (very cheap from the hardware store).

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

guillep2k What transparent tape? Where did I used it? Yes I know what is the heat-shrink I have the full box of it in different colors.

@guillep2k 6 лет назад

4:44 over the thermistor wire. You shouldn't have used any kind of tape because a) tape dries with time and becomes a liability and 2) the one you used looks like very easy to puncture. In other comments you say you don't worry about the connector because the amperage will be less (which is correct) but the problem is voltage: some ambient humidity and you could have your mains voltage creep to the case; that's why someone suggested you put a ground connection to the case and the bed. And those connectors are typically rated for low voltage with a dielectric strength of 250 Vrms (not enough for your safety). I sincerely recommend you to add heat-shrink inside the connectors (both male and female).

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

guillep2k Can't you see that I just use that tape to stick thermistor wires to another cable so I can drag them thru the cable housing?! You didn't even look video carefully. Over connector wires there is electrical black tape and there is plastic thick transparent ring over it inside the connector. Like I said in the comments use this video as idea or reference and do this updgrade it in your way.

@klschofield71 6 лет назад

I'm digging the new intro! Keep the great videos coming, it's always interesting to see what you're up-to.

@ThetaPower 6 лет назад

Thank you for such a well done step by step video. I read what Peter has said, but the reality is that the only possible valid criticism is that a ground would be a good idea. Everything else is nicely thought out and implemented and even the ground is debatable. I love that your “rebuttal” had such good answers. This is why it is important for viewers to ask questions rather than jumping to conclusions. You are not an idiot, and IMO viewers should show more respect to people such as yourself who do us such a good service. At the same time, we need Peters to raise questions that the less knowledgeable need to be aware of. Awesome that no flaming went on and communications persisted to a conclusion. I was just admiring both of you. It all added to the depth of this video in the end.

@chancemysayphonh8310 4 года назад

Your instruction is awesome! It’s amazing how fast the bed heats up now. Only thing I did different was ground the printer chassis and took out the aviation connector completely.

@billhall6654 5 лет назад

Thanks for posting this, I bought a 1000w heater for my CR10S S4...with the stock heater it was taking 25 minutes to get to 60 degrees...I followed your example and everything went perfectly. Now my heatbed hits 100 degrees easily in just a couple of minutes. Very pleased with it and very pleased you posted this.

@CrashPCcz 4 года назад

Heya. Still happy? It felt to me like less hassle to buy secondary 24V power supply. I also did not like how long it took to get at 60 degrees. Now its fast, and at 24.2V, it goes to 120 degrees in reasonable 12 minutes, to not overstress the stock bed. 60 degrees is very fast, 85 very nice, 100, fine. Almost no work, 50 dollars for the supply.

@TheRainHarvester 3 года назад

Update? Is it still working?

@jonhoskinsmusic 3 года назад

I stupidly tried setting mine up by guessing. Was sure I fried my board (you know the smell), but once I got it hooked up like yours, I'm back baby!!! Thanks for taking the time to make this. And props for thoroughness and safety.

@davevario 5 лет назад

I did this mod to my CR-10 today. I had bought in advance a breaker for the heating mat. In the process of the modification I noticed that the socket for the power cord has an AC fuse built into it and since the tap for the AC power is downstream of the fuse, a separate breaker is not needed. That said, the mod works beautifully. Thank you "Nexi Tech" for posting this video!

@paarths.5281 5 лет назад

Although you have done that, I suggest putting a ground wire. Just a suggestion, it's your choice though. I put the ground wire though

@straes 5 лет назад

Finally got around to doing this, and wish I had done it sooner. Was a little nervous as I am not an electrical expert, however following this video closely resulted in highly successful results. Thank you sir!

@TheRainHarvester 3 года назад

Is it still working? Any hazards?

@nghin4vacsf 5 лет назад

I got it figured out. Using a multimeter I was able to locate the correct pins to connect to the SSR. It's time for reassembly. Thanks so much for the best guide on this heater upgrade.

@NexiTech 5 лет назад

Good work my friend! I'm glad that it worked for you. Thanks for stopping by,

@RodrigoCesarCanada 5 лет назад

Thanks a lot... Followed the instructions and worked perfectly. Bed goes to 100C in less than 2 min

@acgkplh 6 лет назад

Easy upgrade 👍. Great tip, solder and pull through the new wires. Genius 👍

@nickanderson8305 6 лет назад

I actually just found this bed a couple days ago since my heated bed died. Wasn't sure if I wanted to get it because it wasn't wired in directly but with this! Super awesome

@TheRainHarvester 3 года назад

Is it still working?

@pkarza 5 лет назад

just got my 110V heated pad - I noticed that the wires were a bit shorter for power... oh well - I will splice them up! Thanks for the great video!!

@TheRainHarvester 3 года назад

Any long term problems to report?

@keninvictoria 6 лет назад

Followed your instructions, using 110VAC pad, 115 C in minutes now, thanks for the great video.

@manuelcastrou79 5 лет назад

did you try get 120c or more with the upgrade?

@LCSRacing 4 года назад

What 110 pad did you use?

@TheRainHarvester 3 года назад

Is it still working?

@hoppietoad725 5 лет назад

In a sea of mass confusion, your instructional video was very refreshing. Whoever manufacturers that SSR and heated bed should be paying you for boosting sales.

@thomaslove2830 6 лет назад

This is the best mod to my CR10 I’ve done to date. The speed at which the heated bed reaches temp is outstanding!

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

Thomas Love I agree :) P.S. I installed stepper motor dampers. OMG what the difference in the sound and vibrations! It's like night and day! So much silent.

@TheRainHarvester 3 года назад

Is it still working? Any problems?

@PetterBruland Год назад

Thanks!! Exactly what I needed. Got this pad in 120V edition. Installing it now. Thanks again!

@BinaryNexus 5 лет назад

Amazing. Thank you! I was wiring my SSR wrong. This helped a lot.

@SumCanadianGuy Год назад

Thanks for the guide! Bed heats up for PLA in less than a minute now!

@PgPgDn 6 лет назад

Excellent tutorial! Although I will not be doing this I sure do like your informative videos!

@therealdeadpen 4 года назад

Magic! That's how you are going to make it heat that quick LOL, nice work.

@utwerps 6 лет назад

Thanks for this great job, much appreciated. It's a shame there are so many negative commenters, if they know better then why not be positive and demonstrate a better way of doing it if they are able to. I have now implemented this upgrade and it's working well, many thanks. Just to help others with CR-10S, there is a capacitor upgrade for the heatbed temp contol on the mainboard, covered by Tim Hoogland at TH3D, to stabilise temp fluctuations caused by voltage ripple, well worth looking at.

@TheRainHarvester 3 года назад

Still working? Any problems?

@jhendies 3 года назад

Great video, just finished installing my new heater and it's sooo fast.

@mattiagaliani3839 9 месяцев назад

Thank you so much, followed your instruction step by step and worked like a charm!

@NexiTech 9 месяцев назад

I'm glad it worked for you as well :)

@kenniclown3103 5 лет назад

Nice work. As a professional technician it's nice to see a guy work with care.

@achmed20 6 лет назад

thx for this! did the same upgrade and now my bed need exactly 23 mins to reach 100°C . best upgrade ever :)

@lapidations 5 лет назад

Was it really the same upgrade? Your time doesn't match his at all.

@Aethelbeorn 4 года назад

@@lapidations maybe he's plugged in a 110v

@terrylamprecht 3 года назад

Fyi... followed this great video to add a 1200w heater to my cr10-s5. Worked great but due to the increased power, I started blowing fuses. Bumped the AC fuse up to 15A and for safety I replaced all the AC wires in the control box with 14 gauge. I was pulling a steady 13A when the heater cycled on. Thanks again for this! Hope my comment helps anyone installing a larger heater.

@NexiTech 3 года назад

Awesome! Thanks for info and feedback. Wish you a great day! Good luck with your S5 monster 3D printer :)

@rooseveltsavage1724 2 года назад

I have a cr10-s5 and have been wanting to do this upgrade to a 1200w heater as well other than the fuse and replacing the wiring wich i will be doing do you have any other suggestions and how is yours working out

@muckademuck 6 лет назад

Very good step-by-step guide. Thanks!

@biggityboggityboo8775 5 лет назад

Phew I'm glad others have mentioned adding some earthing to increase electrical safety!

@lapidations 5 лет назад

You are awesome, thanks so much. You deserved more views and subs.

@NexiTech 5 лет назад

Thank you so much! :)

@photonymous 3 года назад

I followed along with this video and it worked perfectly. Thanks!!

@NexiTech 3 года назад

You're welcome!

@Aashka_The_Mystic Год назад

Thanks man, I just installed my new heating pad and I have no idea how to get it to work lol. I just purchased an ssr and soldering gun and will do the wiring next weekend. Hopefully I can get my printer up and running then 👍

@thehappyextruder7178 6 лет назад

Another great video on upgrades, Nexi clean crisp and to the point...Best Regards buddy and Happy Extruding !

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

The Happy Extruder Thanks buddy! Best Regards(Extruding) :)

@NexiTech 5 лет назад

Don't miss Give away buddy! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--c6PQ0f2Nng.html

@LorenzMichels 4 года назад

EDIT: SOLVED just add a ground wire! Recently I bought a E3D heated bed (E-BED-HT-300-300-240V-KIT). After installing it following your excellent video, the test worked fine. 135 degrees (according to the controlbox) within no time and I could see the relay do it's work. Nice. But the I felt a little tingle when I touched the heated bed (when it wasn't warm anymore). I examined the edge of the heated bed...it was smooth. Then I found out that the tingling was only the case when I touched the heated bed and the control unit of the printer...oops. I got out my volt meter and started to measure on the control unit trying to find the point where I f*cked up. Everyting was connected according to the video and shielded properly. And there was no current on places where it shouldn't. Then I pointed my research on the heated bed. Holding my volt meter between the heated bed and the ground pin of a wall socket it happily showed 230 volts. Is there a flaw in the video? I looked at the wiring. The neutral of the power supply went to the connector of the heated bed. Turning the wall plug 180 degrees (that's possible with dutch wall plugs) There wasn't any current on the heated bed anymore. Problem solved? No not really. First of all I don't want to pull out my volt meter every time when I plug my printer into the wall socket to see if I have to turn the plug to not get electrocuted. Secondly I think it is strange that the heated bed itself gets current. I would expect that only the heating element in the rubber mat beneath it should get current. By the way, even when the heated bed is electrically completely isolated from the printer but only connected with the wires of the heated bed to the control unit the tingling occurs.

@theothoughts 6 лет назад

Nice video! Also I love your intro animation

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

Theo Stephen Thanks :)

@breaddrinker 2 года назад

Worked perfectly. This is really the way it should be from the factory. I find it warps up my magnetic bed until the whole surface equalizes.. Something that didn't happen before because it was so incredibly slow. Not a deal breaker, but something to keep in mind for some who aren't using glass.

@SteveHabermacher 2 года назад

thanks, i was wondering about that, my thermistor went out a while back so im gonna do this. how long did it take for the magnetic cover to equalize? this might be a concern if the print is interrupted but maybe a broken filament or other unplanned event.. especially when using exotic plastics.

@breaddrinker 2 года назад

@@SteveHabermacher Not too long. A few minutes, but it's something to take into consideration.. I find if I preheat the bed before I run the print, it's usually figured itself out and sitting flat again. I've taken to using a pop up vinyl grow tent as an enclosure to keep things nice and toasty around the print anyway, so this preheating makes sense to warm the enclosure too.

@Aashka_The_Mystic Год назад

For anyone wanting to know, I was able to do this with a CR10 S5! Just keep in mind when connecting the SSR to the motherboard to connect the negative side to where the small black cable from the heating bed port and the positive side to where the red cable was on the motherboard. I also couldn't get the end off of the cable so I just saudered the original cable with the new one. Works pretty good but doesn't look great lol. Thanks for this video too! 😊

@p.dd.p790 Год назад

What do you mean? Your comment is unclear. According to the video, the ports 3 and 4 on the ssr go to the mainboard.. are you saying to ensure each one is lined up with the -/+ on the board as it is shown on the ssr?

@kondrez 6 лет назад

Very nice video looked everywhere on youtube and it wasn't explained yet. The only thing I would do different is adding a fuse in series.

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

marko rodriguez Thank you. I fact I was thinking to add fuse the heater on AC line but there is a fuse on the back of control box already where AC plug are and it's 10A rated. 10A x 220V= 2200w. I think it's enough for whole 3D printer with this upgrade. It's maybe good think to add ground somewhere but there is glass over aluminium heatbed and whole heatbed is rolling on plastic so it's isolated from rest of printer. Even if something short out fuse in control box will blow and cut main AC.

@timwelch175 6 лет назад

Thanks for sharing this with such clear and easy to understand detail. I see a lot of negative comments from the peanut gallery, but such is the way with youtube... Bunch of professional keyboard critics lacking in the testicular fortitude or electrical experience to do what you have done, nothing more. I for one appreciate your work, clean work space, clearly worded instructions, and well put together piece of education. Happy printing!

@thespiderkelly9589 6 лет назад

Hi Nexi, good instructional video as usual. Be careful with this one though. There is now 220v A.C. on a machine chassis that was purposed for 24v. There does not seem to be additional grounding on the printer for the 220v circuit. Just a heads up on regulation in case someone decides to flag.

@backspace2753 4 года назад

Just did this upgrade on my cr-10s. Thanks so much for the awesome tutorial.

@photonspark 6 лет назад

Great thanks for this! Can you also please do a video upgrading the hotend for high temp filaments such as ABS ?

@pauls7409 3 года назад

Dude...this is the most complete video I've found so far. I was wondering about the thermistor and connections to the plug. Great work. UPDAET: HOT DIGGITY DAMN, it works! About to do a PID test but the bed works!

@MoeReefs 2 года назад

Damn good tutorial. Straight to the point. Thank you.

@FusTub 6 лет назад

Again other excelent vídeo. Thanks @Nexi Tech.

@alexandrevaliquette1941 5 лет назад

Thanks bro! I've did forgot the name of the "Mosfet" that we can use on 120V to plug my new silicone 120v 750w hotbed mat. Alex from Québec, Canada

@NexiTech 5 лет назад

Alexandre Valiquette It's called solid state relay. You have link in video description. Add the ground wire too man! Never be to safe :)

@PaulWellner 5 лет назад

Great Video!! Keep em coming

@jiajunliu4746 5 лет назад

Really useful guide, thank you!

@remydemmerle8209 6 лет назад

Dears, I just bought a CR10S - Thanks to Nexi's videos - Really useful and well done videos - OK I really wanted to make those modifications and I'm not a rookie regarding electronics stuff but reading all those comments below I don't know whose is right and/or wrong. The point is if the heatbed is enought insulated from the rest of chassis and build plate there are reasons to have fault ... but I'm maybe wrong ... There is maybe one thing, is it possible Nexi please to add a clear diagram for wiring in the power supply ? it would be really helpful for me ! And @ the end maybe we just have to make some holes in chassis and build plate and put them @ the ground no ??? Many thanks for your feedbacks guys, because I really want to make this upgrade safely.

@morgoth62 6 лет назад

After reading all the comments and reviewing the video I have to agree with the gang on one this, GROUND THE FRAME> I am an Electrical Engineer and that is the only way to be safe. The rest of the set up looks fair. Just run a ground to the frame and into the control box and ground to the input power ground. that should make it safe. Great video and I plan to do this in 120v as soon as I get my CR10s next week. Thanks for posting.

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

morgoth62 Thanks man I agree on the ground wire and I already wrote it my "pin comment" right after posting this video on extra safety. Recently I install this upgrade on my Tronxy X5SA and it's works great as well. I will post video on that soon when I finish with other upgrades. Still waiting for some parts to arrive. Regards Nexi

@user-rh1kt9xd6t Год назад

Thanks for detailed manual.

@thormarum995 5 лет назад

Firmware upgrade - how to do? Yesterday i bought a second-hand CR-10 - S4 printer. It's manufacture date must be late 2017 according to the labels inside it. I have a CR-10S - S3 bought in Oct. 2018 (new) and it's firmware is very different from this one. Below a few issues you should consider when owning and using a 3D printer: I was actually surprised how much maintenance is needed when I bought my first printer. However it's essential to get a good print quality. The printer I bought had not had proper maintenance during it's use. It did, however, have a lot of expensive upgrades, but the basics had been neglected. I have found several screws that were not tightened, the Z-axis motor would climb up the rail when activated instead of moving the Z-axis. Both retainers for the Z-axis screws were loose and didn't help much with precision movement. Both belts were out of alignment and severely worn. So far I have spent approximately €50 for spare parts. These are parts that I had in stock for my old printer, but I think I'll have to spend €50 more. Luckily I got it very cheap as nobody else had responded to the add.

@willn9589 2 года назад

I completed this upgrade today. I followed this video step by step along with a couple others and combined them. I had a few minor differences. my mother board heat bed connectors 1 black ground and one red positive were connected to connector 5 and 6 labeled as hot bed not 3 and 4 on my creality CR10s 2.1 motherboard and i kept it the same with the new heat bed connections. I ran a ground from the bed base to frame and frame to control box. I also put a 133c thermo fuse between the bed and insulation inline on the power wire that runs to number #1 pin on the plug. I also updated the thermistor type, max bed temp, and with more power comes along with more responsibility so I updated the thermo runout settings in marlin 2.0.9.3 firmware, compiled and uploaded perfectly. Finally set the bed temp to 100c and hit 100c in 2 minutes 10 seconds and 110c at 2 minutes 34 seconds with no heat error whats so ever. I am happy with this upgrade that cost roughly 70 dollars ordering all parts on amazon. The only problem I still have is that Octoprint still reports power supply under voltage to my raspberry pi and I really thought that would be resolved with this upgrade with the powersupply not being used to heat the bed anymore. I seriously give up on the undervoltage issue as it does not affect printing at all and I have tried everything except buy a new power supply and still get undervoltage warning from octoprint even after isolating the number 1, 5v pin in the usb plug with electrical tape as recommended on the gethub website. I never had this problem until upgrading my octoprint 1.7.2 and PI OS to 0.18.0. it seems they are always screwing up something with octoprint daily and I wish they would leave it alone and stop creating more problems with each update!!!! If anyone has had this same problem and has been able to resole it, please let me know how you resolved it, otherwise Cheers to a great heat bed upgrade video that will work perfectly if followed correctly and thank you so much for your time and effort!

@shokk1967 6 лет назад

Sweet upgrade😁

@monkfry 5 лет назад

Thanks, excellent info. I like this machine.

@JaviBLENDer 3 года назад

Thanks for sharing this content. It's awesome.

@karlsonchee2701 6 лет назад

New intro, nice👍

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

Karlson Chee Thank you

@davidmoreira9184 6 лет назад

Another great video :)

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

Thank you ;)

@mcc05 5 лет назад

So to fix all the issues people have highlighted: 1, replace the aviation connector with a reverse 5pin 250v rated one, so no ac exposed back of control unit 2, run a ground wire on the extra pin to the aluminum plate 3, put a 5amp inline fuse before the relay 4, use spade connectors to connect to PSU AC and relay. Does that about cover it.

@LCSRacing 4 года назад

Curious how did you attach the ground to the bed? Have a link to the connector you used ? Thank you for the note, very helpful.

@anxiousmerchant4129 4 года назад

@@LCSRacing there is no good or up to code way to do that, so these mods are always dodgy Best possible would be another countersunk hole but thats not possible with the silicone mat. Workaround is applying a counter nut on one of the screws and having a ring terminal with counternut below the leveling knob. (but this needs to be undone every time you twist it)

@uglyduckling81 4 года назад

@@anxiousmerchant4129 You don't really need to ground the heated bed directly. You just ground the mount plate underneath. Be worth checking resistance between the two before you count on it but it should be fine.

@anxiousmerchant4129 4 года назад

@@uglyduckling81 On most printers the bed carrier is isolated form the bed and electrical contact is coincidental if a screw touches the hole wall ofcourse you have to ground the plate directly. If you give electrical advice on the internet, do it factual correct or be silent If the diy'ed contraption misfunctions and safety fails, guess who's liable

@exol511 4 года назад

@@anxiousmerchant4129 no one is going to go hold you liable for a dumb youtube comment.

@amazac2078 5 лет назад

needs proper earthing + fuse to be added for protection though its a great idea thx for sharing ,

@candogancan5574 6 лет назад

great video. you are a genius maker. thanks.

@MrJucatulli 5 лет назад

Muito obrigado, funcionou muito bem, acredito que pessoas como você vieram ao mundo pra fazer o bem, fique com Deus, e muito obrigado.

@squirrelrobotics 6 лет назад

He is a genius!

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

@francescopanarisi2111 4 года назад

great !! i do on my CR10S and all it's ok! TANKSS

@duyducble 6 лет назад

Just did this, worked great. Clean install. Don't listen to these guys that say this is dangerous, the cr10 bed underside is potted and isolated from the bare aluminium, it won't conduct. The only time the you'll get shocked by the bare connector is if you have the machine on, running bed temperature command and have the connector disconnected.... don't ever see that happening.

@hegedusrp 6 лет назад

perfect video just tune the PID of the bed!

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

Thank you! I might do that to make even better.

@Tonyplat98 6 лет назад

it's great except... that upgrade isn't cheap by any means.... but it is awesome = ) thanks for the video

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

True, but it helps so much with ABS prints. You welcome :)

@lapidations 5 лет назад

It's cheaper than the alternative... Which is, if you want to print ABS, selling your cr10 and buying another printer that can get to 110C.

@hikmathasanov 4 года назад

Excellent explanation and simple to understand. I have not much electrical background. WOuld like to understand, why we don't use MOS FET, but rather go with AC SSR? The original heater was heated by 12V voltage, but the new bed is heated by 240V voltage. The existing mosfet is not designed to handle that voltage or what? Also using 240V to heat the heatbed, not dangerous? Like a shortcircuit or so? What about using a fuse or two in the setup? And the last one, what if SSR stops switching even the current stops on the input side? It will continue passing 240V across the silicone heater. As a protection we can have two SSRs lined up in series to avoid this functionality problem? Because in original heater, even the heater is on continuously it does not go abot 110-115 degree, at least in my case. But it this modified case it will. Again, I don't have electrical background, but just trying to understand?

@jimmyyaeger8494 6 лет назад

Great intro

@cesarcervantes9971 6 лет назад

Hey, this is awesome! Could you make a video where you´re printing ABS or Nylon. It would be really nice, to check the quality of the print.

@breaddrinker 2 года назад

You still need an enclosure really. This is a great step though. Keeps everything toasty.

@JavierD 5 лет назад

Great video! Althought a little exagerate with the 29mins to reach 85C xD. It takes around 10mins or so but not half an hour

@NexiTech 5 лет назад

Maybe you have newest CR10S model? 24V? My both old CR10 and CR10S are first generation and they have 12V heated bed. Takes a long time to heat up. I made review of CR10S and I shown timelaps video how long it takes to heat up. Fast forward this video to 19:08 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tFfMPjKhF8c.html

@KevintheTerrible 4 года назад

Mine takes a lot longer than 10 minutes as well and it will not always reach 95 degrees which makes it very hard to print ABS.

@leafyon 6 лет назад

I was thinking of getting the tevo tornado because of its ac heat bed but now i don't have to!

@davidlwhitesidearmy 6 лет назад

great job thanks for the video

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

No problem. Thanks for stopping by.

@MichaelChenP 6 лет назад

Good Job!

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

Thank you

@rOSScOGITANS 6 лет назад

Hi! I appreciate very much your work and your passion, I make this improvement too and I have to ask something else: in my opinion the y-axis stepper motor is undersized for the structure and weight that have to move and often with hours and hours of printing, can you make a tutorial for substitute it and the needed vref modification ? Or at last which motor can you suggest me/us for that improvement? Thanks!!!

@mattthetechguy5057 5 лет назад

v2.1 board requires you to use the "Hot Bed" connectors on the board. These are the two connectors that the wire from the mosfet run to.

@kongvue5160 3 года назад

This helped. I worked for the 2.0 as well. Not sure if it's because I updated firmware.

@mariuszzawierucha1310 6 лет назад

Hi Nexi! Great idea. Love it! And going to do the same! But there is a quesion: after upgrading heat bed time for bed plate upgrade :) So what do you recommend? Glass, mirror, LokBild? Please keep in mind that having a opportunity to head a bed to higher temperature there is possibility to finally use ABS etc.. Have you ever concerned turning your plate into magnetic one? Is that possible with high temperature without loosing neodimium strength?Which magnets to choose for that bed upgrade?? Another problem is isolation cotton which decrease magnet's power (so in that case should use again bigger and stronger).I've seen that people used to stick it on the bottom, but how to glue it to cotton :)? Any idea regarding perfect bed for that upgrade?

@mariuszzawierucha1310 5 лет назад

Hi Nexi! It's been a little while .. but finally I have done it! :) In big shortcut: your idea but with my personal improvements such as: -LokBild, -0,5mm alloy sheet (previosuly I have bought very expensive spring steel! which doesn't affect magnets :)))) - so any of you whos wondering - don't make my mistake ;) -added another aluminium 4mm cnc drilled sheet as base for magnets as well as heated top platform, -special 60pcs magnets (which are fine till 380 C degree), - instead of 1 isolation cotton sheet, I have used 3 of them (it was solled in pack of 4..), but 3 here are important in my design- it prevent thermister and heater from smashing and squishing ), -bottom platform I have left orginal one as support for cotton which isn't glued, -each wires were equipped in connector, -I have left orginal lenght of new calbes (never knows when it might be needed) -Lenght of screws 4x50 or 55 works better (60mm might be too long). Pros: -It's work like a charm! :) Always wanted to have such possibility. -heating bad to 60C - after improving time drasticly droped from 15-18min to 1 min 10sec in my case! 15 tmes faster! Madness! -Despite the fact than somebody has described that metod as "unsafety" a few times, calling others idiots and other unpleasent words.. As long as I exactly know what i'm doing - I hardly believe it's pretty safe! Person who disagree, seems has a lack of knowledge or experience... ? -Availability to print immidiatelly after turning on printer, which is really cool! -Possibility of using other materials (those which require high temperature). Cons: -It not a cheap modification (especially if you own S4 or S5) -approximately it costed me somewhere around half of S4 :) Sick! :)) But I don't regret! -On your film all job took a few minutes - in my case I've losted a half day (got more tasks to complete ) -Despite the fact that bad is immidiately heated up it's good practice to give it another minute or two to heat bad evenly. Thank you for sharing your mod!

@lorenzogioielli1086 6 лет назад

Very nice video and very informative. I was wondering if anything had to be done to the firmware to make this work?

@zeneklebioda695 5 лет назад

Thanks for your video. Just one thing. At 8:40 in this video you connecting wires in to heater0 in the middle it was wrong for me. It was start working when connect them to heated bed first two beside. Thanks

@markcoaster4582 4 года назад

Yes I found exactly the same on my CR10-S. The heatbed relay wires need to be connected to the two terminals at the bottom of that connector block as shown on the video. It is is extremely important that the polarity of the wires is correct or the relay will not function. Otherwise a flawless video and many thanks!!! Then make sure you EARTH/GROUND your Heatbed and Printer Frame to EARTH/GROUND running an EARTH/GROUND Cable to the the correct connection inside your 3D Printer's PSU. I followed a guide on the TEVO Tornado on how to make it safer/grounding/earthing. Please use Google or RU-vid. This is an extremely important safety feature and if you are going to all this trouble to upgrade your 3D printer, PLEASE DO THIS AT YOUR EARLIEST CONVENIENCE! Thanks Coaster

@xaverifm 6 лет назад

Did I just saw wiper as a pad on your desk - great source for electrostatic charges? LoL!

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

xaverifm :D That's just to stop screws from bouncing around and to keep the table from scratch during assembly.

@helderrocha4094 4 года назад

Nexi, tks a lot for the help you provide with your videos. A few month ago i made the same improvement on my CR-.10, following your steps. Now, I am thinking about improving my printer with one of those boards, the Duet wifi. Can you help me with this? I manage to do some tecnical things but i dont think i have the knoledge to do something like this. I wold like to install the duet wifi and preserve this bed heating system on my printer. Do you know if it is possible to do this or do you sugest other way to get 32 bits working on the printer? Tks a lot. Love your work.

@paytufo 5 лет назад

THIS LOOKS XTREMELY DANGEROUS!!

@lapidations 5 лет назад

It is not.

@vincenttan1261 6 лет назад

Very nice instruction video. May I ask, why are you sticking the Silicon Heater on the old heater? Thanks for sharing.

@Wolfcritic64 5 лет назад

The original heater is very thin, and there's no obvious way to remove it!

@revansrevenge 5 лет назад

I installed a 24V 500W silicon heater. I also installed a circuit to isolate the 24V from the printer using an optocoupler. I later found out that this is NOT NEEDED, because the CR-10S already has one on its MOSFET module... DANG. The bed heats up much faster now, BUT because of the thermal characteristics of the whole bed (heater, glue, aluminum, air, glass) there is a lag in the heating of the glass itself. When I heat up to 90c the glass is just at 70 and takes about 3 minutes to reach the temperature measured at the NTC. Take this into consideration people...

@thormarum995 5 лет назад

Everything has a 'thermal constant', i.e. it's ability to conduct heat. Plastic has a very high thermal constant. Aluminium and brass have a very low thermal constant. Glass is somewhere in between.

@MrNuggsable 5 лет назад

If you havent done so already, you should make a video on ways to make your printer more safe. Something on the lines of how people make tevo tornados safer.

@PaganWizard 5 лет назад

For roughly 25% more money, you can buy the same Keenovo heat bed that has it's own external controller. This eliminates having to connect it to the CR10 control box if you are not very comfortable with wiring. You will still have to de-solder the old heat bed though.

@NexiTech 5 лет назад

Why not, that's good idea. I will place that option in video description as well. Thanks

@derui75 6 лет назад

hello nexi nice tutorial, thank you i am doing the upgrade but i am doing the cables myself since my heated bed came like yours with almost same wire colors my AC cables are both red and the thermistor cable is black with 2 cables , 1 red and 1 black how do i know whats the + and the - AC cable? i think for the thermistor it does not matter just let me know thank you

@davidfrisken1617 6 лет назад

It would be a good idea to heatshrink the AC terminal in the plug. An earth for the bed would also be a good idea.

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

I agree. Why not it can only be better. Ground can be added on one level adjusting screw for example.

@dainazinas 6 лет назад

I hope that ssr gets enough ventilation as they are designed to be installed with a heatsink.

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

Dainius G There is fan blowing directly to SSR and I attached SSR to Power supply which works as huge heatsink.

@radioanimeguy229 4 года назад

For those of you who are trying to follow the video, don't, it doesn't work unless you leave the control module in. Which he mentions very briefly but, neglects to mention how important that module is. For this reason, my printer was broken for weeks with no answer. Thank you for that.

@trevorlynch6549 6 лет назад

The upgrade works awesomely

@TheRainHarvester 3 года назад

Is your bed still working? Any problems?

@trevorlynch6549 3 года назад

@@TheRainHarvester Yes it still works perfectly.

@TheRainHarvester 3 года назад

@@trevorlynch6549 thank you! I'm trying to build a diy 12x12" , but finding a 12v heated bed seems impossible. I only have 110v wall outlets. I'm not sure if I could use an adapter. Also the bigger heat beds are 750w!! That would heat my room!!

@trevorlynch6549 3 года назад

@@TheRainHarvester There is a 120v option on the link that he shares in the description. There is no plug you wire it up to a relay to control temperature.

@TheRainHarvester 3 года назад

@@trevorlynch6549 yes, but the relay relays the required 220v. So I was wondering if connecting that 220v relay input, to a 110v plug that goes to a 110v-to-220v-adapter would work.

@edwardboston8600 6 лет назад

The SSR DC input is polarized. You need to make sure it is connected correctly or it won't work.

@cnc3-in-1 2 года назад

Will this work with the CR10-5S ? I bought a 500mmx500mm version of what you show and it comes with it's own temp control, but it's WAY off... like 10C off and the heater doesn't kick on until it's almost 20C below where I set it (in this case 70C). Right now I have the factory bed heater plugged in because it won't run without it plugged in. I just quickly tune the bed for the project to 0C so it doesn't heat up. But super janky set up. I want to do it your way, but am not an electrical engineer. I just need to know what parts to get. and then your instructions for set up seem pretty straight forward.

@roblosie9253 Год назад

Great stuff...watched it several time and ordered the new heat bed and relay but when using your link to the insulation material you glued to heater. Were finding it's unavailable. What are the white squares made up off? Is there a substitute? Does it need to be some fire retardant material etc.?? Hope you can reply will keep checking back as we wait for our parts. Thanks a million I have been wanting to do this and with your video decided we could thank again!

@NexiTech Год назад

Hi Rob! Im glad that I can help and that you found mu video useful. That is heat resistant cotton which can withstand very high temperature without releasing any toxic fumes in the room. I just updated all links in the video description, please check them again. Just one tip you can use also silicone glue to hold the cotton it in the place. Remember it takes time to cure. Cheers!

@Fluke752 6 лет назад

Great Guide, I cant quite make out where you have connected the 2 wires that control the relay on and off. Can I connect it to the same place where the 2 small wires from the heater bed moffet connected to on the motherboard? This is also where 40mm fan that cools the mother board is located.

@NexiTech 6 лет назад

Fluke752 Yes that's right. Where two wires(heat bed) connect to mosfet. You can use that two wires just cut conector and connect them to relay.

@Chris-fz5oe 4 года назад

Really great video, very good detail :) I'm looking for a high quality version for the CR10 S5, can you point me in the right direction please??

@NexiTech 4 года назад

Thank you, Yes sure, have look on my CR10 Max review - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lE9i1-DX1aI.html

@aerospaceTUdelft 6 лет назад

@Nexi Tech Hey mate, I am planning to use an EZABL device in combination with the Keenovo 1000w AC heater. I read on th3d website that 'cheaper' SSRs 'leak' current and therefor mess with the accuracy of the device. Do you use an EZABL? And if so which SSR do you use for that?

@thormarum995 5 лет назад

Hi friends. This a DIY guide. If you don't feel comfortable, then don't do it. But stop criticizing the author. This is a very good example of what RU-vid can do for you. It can help you improve the product you've bought. I'm a qualified electronics technician and I usually don't work with more than 48 V AC or DC, but I'm not afraid of 230 VAC. I know how to it make it safe for my kids and my wife (maybe not for my wife - she's got a good insurance). Please use your common sense.