Installing the Creality CR-10 All Metal Hot End Upgrade by Micro-Swiss 

Anyone else see the irony in the host cutting open the microswiss box with a swiss army knife?

I just picked up my micro Swiss today from the mail. Super stoked to set it up after this print is done

Thanks for reading my mind! I bought the Micro Swiss upgrade for the CR-10 yesterday!

Sorry about the earlier audio glitch. This is more betterer. Stay awesome. #highfive

I absolutely love the way you did this. Great work

Sweet Upgrade! Seems like a nice mod to make CR-10's unstoppable!

Incredible timing on this video. I Just got the same CR 10 and the same nozzle upgrade from tiny machines. it was delivered last weekend. I’ve had it set up and done a few prints but was unsure how and when to install the upgraded hotend. Well, problem solved. Thanks a million!

Can you give a break down on what types of situations I would need the "All Metal Hotend" vs the "Flexible Friendly Hotend" you have both linked below I intend to use both flexible and wood/metal filaments in the future.

I love the use of a Swiss army knife to open the micro switch box!

Will this work on a CR10v2 with Titan Direct Injection?

Thank you so much for this quality video.

Great video as usual Joel, I have heard a lot of people having issues dialling in their slicer once swapping to a Micro Swiss hot end on the CR-10, do you have any general guidelines on what settings would need to be changed?

Nice job. I installed an E3D hot end to my CR-10 and my A8.

Anyone else having an OCD moment about the bowden tube being inserted when it wasn't cut straight?

I just bought this all metal hot end for my CR10s. I started printing PETG on the stock hot end and now it won’t extrude at all. I read PETG needs an all metal. So I am hopeful this is the key. Thanks Joel. High five.

6:00 As an engineer it's very odd to me that you removed the heater block screws. They add a lot of rigidity and strength to the assembly and without them, the only thing holding the heater block on is that tiny grub screw. Did the micro-swiss instructions specify to do this? Steel doesn't actually transfer heat very well so they shouldn't affect the heat transfer very much.

would it work well to use a 0.6 mm nozzle?

Hi do they make a version of this that does not have the 2 bottom holes in heater block ? as i have the hictop cr-10 and that does not have those 2 holes :( or would i need to buy a original crealty heater block

I went all metal with my E3d about a year back and i couldn't be happier with it. Over temp'ing the PTFE lined hot ends causes so many issues and they seem to destroy themselves anyway after a fair amount of use. At least with the all metal hot ends you don't need to tweak your settings over time as the PTFE liner degrades :)

Hi gang. Once this hot end is installed, are there any settings that need to be changed in the firmware to allow the hot end to actually reach the 300C? Every vid I've seen only shows the physical installation, but I'm pretty sure the CR-10s is capped at about 260C. Any help appreciated!!!

Wait so you just put the screws in and then ultimately leave them out at the end?

I didn't have the two screws holding on the heater block, also the sock does NOT fit over the stock heater block. After you've tightened the nozzle, you might have to cool down and remove the cover to get the sock on correctly.

Can the brass nozzles from the stock hotend still be used if just using pla? and reistall the micro nozzle for other filaments?

I have a CR10S Pro V2 I see this is shorter that the standard hot end plus now with the BL touch it is way off. do you have any good idea's on making this all balance correctly ?

What is up with removing the heat clamp screws?

Does this micro swiss hot end also attach on tevo tornado as well?

Hi i have a CR10-max have upgraded to a micro-swiss direct drive all metal hot end and was wondering is there a better hot end for this mounting as it clogs then cant get the screws un done have had the tip unwind its self even though it was up to 235c when i tightened it now has a blockage in the heat break and cant get it out of the heated finned block. I'm thinking there must be a more robust type of direct drive system that is extremley reliable ???

Thanks for the vid

i already ordered the hot end , but now i'm afraid to install it and run into problems, would you recommend it? i was reading we need to also upgrade the fans... and wrap the block...

installed this yesterday, but i keep getting blockages between the titantum heat break and the cooling block which fails my print. the heat break is in correct and the grub screw is tight and retraction is set low as reccomended.

Why does he remove the two screws on the hotend at the end before installing the sock? I don't understand...

What other materials other than ply and abs can be able to print with that hot end?

I have a capricon tube and hardened nozzle on my stock hot end so I can do hot temps, but this is nice option for sure. I am surprised that creality havnt developed their own all metal hot end as an option.

will the CR-10 print cabin fiber ?. i am new to 3d printing

Wow, that old hotend is well made.

I have a Tevo Tornado, with the stock hot end. The setup is very similar to the CR-10. I currently print in PLA, PETG. However I would like to also print with wood, and TPU. Do I need to change the hot end in order to print in TPU, and do I need to change it back to use PLA, PETG again? Sorry for the "basic" questions, but I tend to over think things.

How come you didn't install the new heater block that it came with?

Some kits have a replacement heater block sold with them, are there any pros or cons to replacing it or using the existing one you have besides just the price?

Are the colored bits on the cr-10 factory? I have an Ender 3 and I would love to know if I could print those out and jazz up my printer

I am upgrading mine Thursday!

Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?

Why remove the screws. Don’t they provide added stability ??

Hi Would that make printing with 1mm nozzle better?

Why did you remove the screws at the end to install the insulation piece ?

Gday Joel bit off topic but I wanna ask you this I’m tossing up to upgrade from my first printer (geeetech i3pro b) between an original prusa mk3 or the cr10 big difference in someways. What would be your honest choice between the 2 be? And hi from Tasmania

Hi Joel, I am trying to find information on how to upgrade my CR10s with micro-swiss to reach 310C. I cannot find any information on upgrading with original equipment, do you have any suggestions or recommended sources that I can use? Do I need a K-Type thermocouple, and if so, I am not sure if interface board is required or pinout instructions for integration into original CR10 control board... BTW, have been a big fan for a very long time. Thanks!

Hey man ! Is This a good product? What material will this upgrade allow me to print with? or What kind of improvements can I get from this upgrade? and what else would I need to do for this upgrade? Thank you!

hi, in order to print higher temps, how do we add a pt100 to a cr10s?

Why did you remove the screws of the heating block at the end?

Bought an A10S for $200, not yet received and already looking for upgrades. This looks like a great upgrade. Why remove the 2 bottom screws? To me it would be better to leave them in place?

Can you do a review on a 3D mouse? I'm having a hard time navigating Fusion 360 and was thinking about buying the 3Dconnexion SpaceNavigator. Thanks.

Can you please do a video on how to use the "Motion" settings on the CR10. Tks

I'm not going to lie, I wish E3D had a design similar to this hotend, at least in terms of mounting. I'm not a fan of groovemount, and I also like how this has a secured heater block that can't twist around on you like E3D can.

I was just wondering if you have ever printed wax filament

how is that hot end working for you? have you tried any others?

Hey Joel! Great video as always. I’d like to change the hot end on both of my CR-10 printers but I need a setup that would allow my Capricorn XS tubing to go all the way diwn to the nozzle. Recommendations?

Could you do a similar video for the prusa MK2? But could you should how to remove the wiring with the thermistor and everything, then reinstall all the new wiring

why does he remove the screws that connect the hotend to the radiator?

What if I don't want to reuse the current heater block? I might get one of these but I'm not sure how to install the cables into the new heater block

Hey Joel et al.. I've a Microswiss All metal hotend on my old CTC flashforge clone, i did the upgrade last year, and I'm not joking but one of the best upgrades I added :)

Anybody know why the heater block shipped with the Micro-Swiss was not used. ?? and instead Joel used the ender3 original. Would the other not have advantages. ??

Why remove the 2 screws at the end? Are they in the way of the silicon sock?

how did you get the piece of PTFE tube from your other hotend? I have the same problem and have not been able to figure out how to get it out.

what about the fan blowing on the hot end ?

I am screwing the new micro swiss into a Tevo Tornado...The mricro swiss is smaller than my old heat sink...so it is a bit loose... Do they these types of screws at like Home Depot...? I am a newbie...Sorry..

I saw this the other week, been waiting for it to be available locally. Figured i'd upgrade after the disaster that happened to the original hot end.

will any mk10 fit any printer uses mk10 as in can i use mk10 for say a Creality on a tronxy xy2 pro

Do you have to do anything to the firmware after changing to the Mcro Swiss hotend? Or is that only when you change to a different thermistor setup?

Great video! Can this print carbon fiber filament without tearing up the nozzle?

I don't know if you can help me with this, but I'm looking to buy a 3d printer for the first time and it's a lot to take in. I (think) I've settled on a CR-10 (wish I could get the S4 variant but will probably go with just the CR-10). Anyways do you know if Lightinthebox.com would be an ok site to purchase it from? Currently the Creality CR-10 is listed there for $300.

why didnt you use the new heater block and just reuse the old one?

Another heater block came in the kit. Why did you use the stock one?

I just ordered my first printer super excited I got ender3 I wanna print that NylonX stuff looks awesome ...

Well it print carbon fibre with this upgrade?

I could listen to Joel Telling about everything :) (not only about printers) The Vibe of the name is not given without the reason :) Lova ya 👍👍

what about the max temp set in the firmware ?

Does anyone think this could work as a replacement for the Anet E10 hot end?

what will be the max temperature that I can set in cr-10s after upgrading it to an all metal hotend?

thanks for sharing :-)

This is working for CR-10s also?

Hey guys, I did this upgrade a while back I'm getting constant jamming on Polycarbonate and PLA when the ambient air temperature is over 30C. Is anyone else had to deal with this?

*WHOOSH* ... gets me every time :D

Ok will try asking the question again. What exactly will this help with as far as hotter temp filaments and abrasives filaments? My son and I have been printing with PLA for our first couple of rolls of our first 3D Printer. When we moved to PETG we have had no luck getting good infill and supports to print. Would this upgrade help with that? What settings do you suggest for petg with a cr10s and what advantages are there to this upgrade not mentioned in the video. Btw the previous version of the video was great, just had the music missing on your intro? Thank you Matt

Hey Joel, what is the reason for taking the 2 screws out from the heater block to cooling block before putting the sock on? I was thinking it was very cool (no pun intended) to have those to hold the heater block for nozzle removal. Just curious.

why did you need to take the 2 screws out at the end before put on the rubber heat block cover ?

Joel can the ruby nozzle be used with the all metal hot end. im thinking long term ware on a plated nozzle vs a ruby nozzle for use with abrasive filaments.

Great video...But what holds the heater block in if you've taken the screws out?

no links to the hot end ?

Hey Joel! This is a great tutorial, and im so glad you made it! I hear this upgrade is mainly so that you can print above 235-245 C without the PTFE tube melting and expanding? If so, thats exactly what i need but i dont quite see any difference in the parts from stock parts. Whats different? Also is there a way to convert stock parts to "all metal" so i can print higher tempatures? Thanks so much! -M

Wouldn't you also have to upgrade the firmware to allow you to set higher temperatures?

why did you put in the heater block screws to remove the screws on the heater block later?

Would it not be worth running PID tuning as well?

Does this hotend also work with the CR-10 S5 ?

Why do you remove the 2 heater block screws at 6:01 wouldn't this cause problems later?

Hi Joel. Do you know if they all include the blue silicone sock? From the links you provided to their product, the sock is not listed in either option, nor is it in the pictures or their installation video. I would like the sock and was wondering.

Will this work in a Anycubic i3 Mega?

Hey Joel, I'm just wondering if this will let me go past 235c? At the moment if I set my printer to 250c, it won't even reach 234c. Will this kit help me get to the 250, or will I need to do a different upgrade?

Awesome video. Why did you leave the stock block there rather than use the one that came in the box? Why didn't you push the PTFE into the clip before pulling it out? The ring on the inside will sometimes have frayed the PTFE making it hard to pull out. Also the plastic ring has to be pushed down uniformly. There are a couple things important to point out for people upgrading. 1. Firmware should be upgraded if you plan to go past 270C. You don't have to upgrade the firmware but you are missing out on Marlin features that did not exist in the stock Creality Firmware that will improve your prints (Linear Advance & Unified Bed Leveling) and reduce the chance of a fire if you leave your printer unattended. 2. The stock thermistor is rated to 270C. Better thermistors can be had from Amazon and Ebay. I use the M3 HEX Screw-In M3 EPCOS Thermistor because nobody has time for trying to insert a glass bead thermistor into a hot end. 3. The retraction settings will need to be changed for better performance. (2mm or less. Retraction of 1 to .5mm is common) Misconfigured retraction settings cause clogs. Even the E3D documentation says this. e3d-online.dozuki.com/Wiki/V6_Troubleshooting 4. The PTFE Tube doesn't have to go as far down into the Microswiss block. 5. This is the best time to upgrade to Capricorn TL to reduce friction to help with retraction. 6. The temperatures needed to print the same material may need to be raised 5 to 10C per the manual. Not paying attention to this can cause clogs because of the cooling that can happen when printing faster. 7. Make sure to learn about PIDAutotuning so that you can set the temp that you want to print at in the firmware. The hot end will heat faster once it is tuned. I own the Wanhao i3 All Metal, Wanhao D6 All Metal, and Creality CR10 All Metal Micro-Swiss upgrades. Allot of people don't read the instructions or do their research before upgrading. Don't listen to anyone that hasn't physically put their hands on it or used the hot end for longer than a few days. There are people getting some awesome prints out of them and there are some that are struggling because they upgraded before they even knew how to get great prints out of the Stock CR10 Hot End. Ignorant users love to 'Upgrade Bandwagon'. I only recommend this upgrade for people that are going to take the time to learn their printer and Slicer. I would also recommend this hot end as a replacement for anyone that destroyed their stock hot end trying to take it apart. I would definitely recommend this upgrade to anyone before going the E3D V6 route because you can keep the stock fan assembly/look.

Hi, I have done a hotend upgrade on my cr10. I now have a error coming up as termal run away. How do I fix this problem

I saw what you did there! Swiss Army knife indeed