I hope you like the video. If so, send it to your friends. Maybe it will make someone happy and maybe it will help. If not, please write a few words what you do not like. I would love to learn and improve my videos. 😉🙏
You just saved my life. Big time. Had a nozzle snap inside of the hotend while I was trying to unclog it, had no idea what anything was, and barely had the right tools. But this just showed me how to do everything easily. I hope you see this and i liked and subscribed! ❤
I damaged my heat-break trying to remove it from the heat block but still managed to get everything working right. The has completely fixed my under-extrusion issue. I used a washer that came with an m3 screw kit. Thanks.
Thank you for the video tutorial. After removing and reinstalling the nozzle I would recommend running through bed level/z offset process as the nozzle distance from bed will likely have changed. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Everything is well explained and good :) but don't heat the Hotend to 260°C that's to hot for the PTFE. PTFE lined Hotends should only be heated up to 240°C that's especially important for printing operations!
While PTFE is stable and nontoxic at lower temperatures, it begins to deteriorate at temperatures of about 260 °C (500 °F), it decomposes above 350 °C (662 °F), and pyrolysis occurs at temperatures above 400 °C (752 °F). This is also why Ender has a temperature limit of 260 °C. You still need to set the highest temperature you can print at to make sure the nozzle doesn't loosen.
@@Zemistr3D Ok, I always read about 240°C beeing the max. at least for long printing operations, but if that's the case 260°C should be fine ✌️ I would still recommend keeping a buffer so it wouldn't start to deteriorate. :)
Hi, the deteriorate of the PTFE Tube depends on the quality of the tube. Some can go up to 260 for short, time some don´t like 230. The better solution is to use a full metal heatbreak. Any "modern" avoids contact of any PTFE tube at the heatzone.
@@helgemoller5158 In another video will be upgrade to the all metal hotend. I'm waiting some parts from China. 😅 I'm trying do the upgrades in some logic and budget way.
didny=t think i would be upgrading my ender 3 first time i try to print something but I was unlucky and got a lemon. not only did i have to deal with the z axis not being aligned propperly which is something i noticed immediately during assembly because it wouldn't just drop into the coupling (i now have a flexable coupling and that fixed it plush a shim behind the stepper motor) i have it heated 30 min total and thermal runaway and i decided just replace the whole thing since fixing the thermistor is a 6 month fix while this is Permanente.
Thank you for a very nicely done video. I like the modification, but experienced some difficulties with the filament passing through the O-ring and getting to the heat block. Any suggestions?
I bought this exact hot because it has a better themoster and And Not even after 30 minutes of use because I only hated up three times I was getting thermal run away. I hurry up! Trying to get the phone again. After that I thought I had it in and I tried to put a calibration cube and there was no extrusion. I then tried to put the filament t in again and went away for 10 min and I come back to hear a constant beep and it says thermal runaway.
@@Boorne2Kill I am now testing this one and it works perfectly. I just had to add some thermal paste around the part of the heatbreak, which goes into the heatsink. s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFtgAeL
