I don't know what possessed you to design and print such an elaborate teaching aid, but all I can say is THANK YOU! Here we are nearly 4 years after this video creation and people like me are still benefitting from it. I'm finally back to trouble-free printing on my Ender 3 Max!
I was going crazy from clogging at nozzle non stop. Whatever out there i did never helped. The idea of pushing filament extra bits by turning the connector was a briliant idea. I througly cleaned inside the nozzle. Pushed tube while hot, then i thought it would be better to push cold. Cold push, connecter squueze. BAM! suddenly my print is not stuck after 20 minutes. You are a life saver :)
So I never comment on basically anything. But I really want to stress what many have said here. You description and detail of explaination and then above and beyond printed example is amazing and I really want to thank you for this. I know it is a simple thing to many but for those who are not coming from a world of say Engineering, this really helped me to understand how it all works and what I need to do to fix the exact issue I was having. Thank you!
As someone who uses an Ender 3 Pro DAILY for fabricating accessories and attachments for my products, and having ZERO knowledge about 3d printers, this video was by FAR, EXTREMELY well done, very explanatory, and I now feel confident in working on this machine myself. Keep up the PHENOMENAL instructional videos!
We've recently got an Ender 3 Pro from a friend that was "broken", and I'm gradually realising more and more things that were wrong with the way she'd built it. This is absolutely ideal to explain visually everything about the hot end, thank you so much sir!
I work in melt and paste extrusion for a living and you were still able to teach me something here. Never thought about pushing that PTFE tube all the way through to make sure there's no old bits creating gaps. Great instructional.
Tipnon cutting PTFE tube. Put filiment through it while cutting. Load it from the roll with the free end sticking out the end you cut so none of it is left on the tube. This helps keep the inside of tube from bending while cutting.
Just wanted to say that this is the best explanation of anything 3D printer related. You dont assume anyone knows anything and explain everything so thourghly. Thank you for the help!
Sir, just wanted to let you know that this helped me solve my problems easily. I've never seen a more specific and clear tutorial online. Thank you a lot!!
Being here on youtube for almost 15 years & yet this has to be the best youtube tutorial I ever seen. No messing around with other things nor assuming you're a complete Mormon. Explains everything that you come here for & more information that you will also need to know. He has also made this video not boring which is actually quite a completion by his end. The information that he gives you is really good for most of all 3D printer hot end & the concentration on the bit that lots of people will mess up is also good. TL;DR This is a very good video.
That 3d printed hot end model you made is BY FAR, the coolest most creative visual representation of the part on RU-vid. Tops a PowerPoint graphic or macro lens on a hot end and allows you to instruct more smoothly without fidgeting with lenses. Simple and brilliant. You should head up a 3DP program at a college. Could get young engineers understanding FDM basics in no time.
I'll add with everyone else that this is one of the best presented and no bullshit instructionals I've ever seen on RU-vid. The model really helps too.
Thank you so much for the clearest tutorial ever man! that big scale model helped a ton. I was literally about to throw my printer away until I saw this video
This video is a lifesaver. I was at wits end trying to figure out why my printer was suddenly under extruding. Replaced extruder, nozzle, capricorn.. no luck. Following this video got my printer working again!
Had problems for over 2 weeks. Your solution did the trick. No more skipping of the extruderwheel. Blokkage was 7mm long. Had to heat up and poke it out with an allen wrench.
You my friend are a life saver, spent the last 2hrs unblocking my nozzle after replacing it for the first time. This video tutorial is by far the best. Thank you 😀
2 года назад
This video solved my troubles, thank you very very much. By the way, my problem was not the gap between the PTFE tube and nozzle (although it was immensely useful to know how to do it properly), but rather the hot end cooling fan was turning of during the initial layer (I probably connected it to the wrong port) causing the filament to bulge with the heat as you explained, that was the “aha” moment for me. Again thank you very much for the quality and concise information.
Wow! I never knew there was such a problem with Creality hot ends. 4 years ago, before I did anything with my new CR 10, I bought the Micro Swiss cooler block, heat break with the blue Capricorn PTSD. tube. It came highly recommended as an important upgrade. My CR 10 has been running like it stood something. I tuck my fans off all too gather and started printing ABS and Nylon-X composite. Of course, I had to build an enclosure to keep the heat in, but that's part of the research. If people don't do their homework when it comes to 3D Printing their just asking for trouble.
There isn't such a problem with creality hot ends every single bowden hot end on the planet will have the same basic problem you simply notice it more with creality hot ends because there are so many of them out there if 1% of 1% of the hot ends have this issue for most printers you'll never hear about it but because they sell millions of them 1% of 1% is actually a substantial number I wish creality and the rest of them would move to a more secure hot end a two-piece Bowden tube for a good example of this see Luke hadfield's fix but that would cost them a little bit more to implement which is probably why they don't this is just so simple and honestly for most people trouble free
I've been having so much trouble with my hotend leaking burnt filament goop all over itself and my prints, and causing so much ugly stringing and gaps in my layers. I'm currently reassembling my hotend after taking it apart, cleaning it, and following these very thoughtful instructions to make sure it won't happen again. I had been changing out my nozzles and had no idea that it could cause this, and I wasn't tightening them extra after heating up either, so that's another new thing I learned. Here's to hoping this fixes all of these issues. I am not very technologically or mechanically intelligent on a base level, I'm only good at learning how to do things from extensive Googling, so there are a ton of things I find out that I'm doing wrong that would probably have the professionals ripping their hair out to see me do. I'm also brand new to 3D printing, having only been doing it for 2 months now. 😅 I'm not sure you will see this since the video is older, but you seem like such a nice man, 11/10 would hug. If you do see this, or if anyone else knows, I do have a question: what kind of stepper motor do I need to get to replace the stock one on my Ender 3 Pro? I had the 42-40 but I got the metal feeder parts and had to get a new stepper that I could attach the new burr/grip gear from the feeder parts kit to, and I ended up buying a 42-34 and I'm not sure if this may be causing some of these issues or not. There's a ton of clicking where it's jumping back and sometimes grinding down the filament.
as long as you are willing to learn you will get their. nothing in 3D printing is actually hard it just not familiar and sometimes not quite obvious until you know what your looking for. stick with it. learn practice adjust and you will get it!
@@nerys71 Thank you! I had forgotten about this comment I made, so for anyone reading this, my final issue was heat creep! I had to buy a new cooling fan for my heat sink!
I been noticing dark specks on the skirt side around my prints. lIke brown specs in various places along the first string layer. Also noticed my prints were starting to go from great to bad. Watching your demo with that model you said about the bowden tube being cooked off . That makes perfect sense to what is going on with my number 2 printer. My number 1 printer already suffered a major clog and needed a hotend replacement. Thanks for the clear tutorial. The model is a great way to identify problems. Thank you.
After using CHEPs washer + ptfe insert I was recommended this video... almost didn't watch it. I've probably watched 100 videos over many channels, and you sir have provided information that is FUNDAMENTAL to using this 3d printer thing, lol. This is definitely a first watch before even your first print. Many thanks for the video!
This is an amazing explaination as to why I installed the parts into the hot end incorrectly and how to fix it. I LOVE the model you made to explain this, thank you so so much
Thank you Sir! I just started my 3D printing journey and nothing was working. I was about to just cut my losses and quit because I simply could not find the right solution. But you sir, have saved me from quitting. I ran through the steps just as you said and thoroughly cleaned out my Ender 3's hot end. My nozzle had gotten so caked up with PLA that I had to switch to the extra that Comgrow fortunately provided. I feel so relieved that I can finally print a proper Benchy😅.
Best pedagogy about details of a 3D printer! CONGRATS CHRIS! This video should be recommended to K-12 (and above) teachers. It's not like those powerpoint slides, so annoying and without any touch with the tangible things. Thank you!
RU-vid autoplayed me after i already fixed my issue but i played through this while i worked on it to give support. Appreciat eyou makeing a giant prop to show us how to solve problems. Appreciate it dude.
Has to be the best, most accurate, and articulate description of this issue. Now i fully understand how this part works. Now away to fix my old CR10proV2 which clearly needs this service. The hotend is smelly and has some PLA stuck on it.
This was exactly what I needed after struggling to understand what was clogging my hot end and why, the printer demo model was also incredibly helpful. Thanks a lot for this, excellent work
Super! I have been struggling with under-extrusion of mu PLA filament for more than a week. Confusingly, PET-G was working fine... Until I finally found your clear explanation, I fixed my extruder (all metal - same principles) and YES it's all fine now. Thanks!!
Fantastic video. One addendum that may be useful: it is better to heat the head when doing this maintenance. Usually some plastic particles creeps in the thread of the nozzle, so the nozzle is locked in place when cold; unscrewing it when cold requires too much force, and it may damage some parts; when hot, I do not usually need pliers to keep the head still, I plug the appropriate tool to the nozzle and iit unscrew smoothly and effortlessly. I use PETG; I preheat to 150°C before unscrewing the nozzle; then heat at 230° so that the PTFE tube is not glued to the internal part of the head, then I push the PTFE tube out of the noozle side to expel any blob, and I clean the tube when it is hot (so it is easy to pull off blobs from it); then I san the end of the PFTE tube to make it as flat as possible; then I go back to 150° before reassembling everything
I thought I made that clear. I will have to double check that. Big mistake on my part if I did not mention that. you absolutely MUST do this HOT. you can and likely will literally snap the nozzle in half if you try it cold. the filament in the threads is like concrete !!!
I'm 99,9% sure this was the problem on my V2. Thanks for the great explanation. Don't understand how i didn't had this problem earlier in a year. Never knew exactly how this worked. Printing a benchy now!
I’m at shocked in how great of a video this is You were slow and methodical and didn’t assume the we knew everything. Loved the oversized model too. Great work!
Thank you for this video, I REGULARLY share it with my customers so they understand how to rebuild the Creality hot ends and also the base reason why so many of them have problems after they've pulled the PTFE out and replaced it.
I have to give you credit, I probably watched 10 videos trying to solve this problem but none helped me the way yours did. I think you're a natural teacher and hope you keep this up because you really have something great going here! Thanks!
This was exactly what I needed! After a nozzle change, I just couldn't get melted filament to stop leaking above and below my heat block. I'd been following the commonly cited procedure of loosening the nozzle 3/4 of a turn, seating the tube, heating up the hotend, and tightening the nozzle. After 3 attempts, with no improvement noted, I was about to give up and buy a new hotend. You are the FIRST person I've seen to suggest backing off the bowden fitting, and it was the key to solving my problem. Thank you SO MUCH!!!
Thank you for walking me through this. I was beyond frustrated and ready to pitch my printer. Your teaching style is remarkable for both the visual learner, hands on learner or listening to what need to be done. Truly tremendous video and help.
FINALLY! You have solved my chronic problem. It's always those little tricks that make the difference between an amateur and a professional. I was aware of how it should be, but didn't know the trick to make it happen. Backing off two turns. God bless you Sir!
Thank you so much, I attached a BL Touch to my 3D printer and couldn't figure out why it wasn't working. It kept saying it was over heating when it wasn't, you casually mentioned the screw that holds the temperature gage in place and that was where the issue was. Screw back in place and it's running perfectly. I watched so many videos ans yours was the only one that mentioned it, thank you very much, probably just saved me many £££ in unnecessary replacement parts.
Purchased a Ender3 pro as the lady who owned it was having issues with it, one being the Y axis cable had been snapped, easy fix, the other was blobbing as she called it. turns out, after watching this, and taking it apart, it was a clogged hotend. Thanks for this video.
Thank you a thousand times!!! I thought I had really screwed my Ender up. Yours was the 3rd video I watched on why my nozzle was leaking and it’s the ONLY video that gave a concise answer of why and how to fix it. One hour later and it’s back up and printing beautifully again.
Super demo! the giant model is a great teaching aid- another demo of value of 3d printing. I sure wish th real thing went together and apart this easily! I suggest you mention that the heat break threads into the heat sink, the heater block threads onto that, and the nozzle threads into that, making assembly and disassembly way more tedious than it is with your model!
Thank you! The number of videos that suggested elaborated solutions are crazy. I changed my hot end entirely thinking it’s a malfunction then it appears that all I needed was to push the tube further
As someone who believes I’m on the autistic spectrum and gets frustrated and learns nothing from most other videos to fix issues I found this video really easy to understand and helpful. I had two leaks from the nozzle and had panic attacks thinking I’ve ruined it. Going to fix it tomorrow while re-watching this video.
THis fixed my problem.. cannot believe I missed this super simple fix!! I cut the bowden with flush cutter, mistake, it made the tube a V and leaked Thanks for the video!
This is golden!!! Exactly what I needed!!! You just saved me a logic puzzle nightmare.... can't upgrade my hot end until I print the adapter for the new hot end, but you saved my printer!!! Best video I've seen on this issue, great detail, easy to understand!!!
Very awesome! Super noob here, doing my first longish print (10 hours) noticed nothing was coming out. Took it apart noticed molten filament alllll over my hot end. Had to use my heat gun and scrape it all off. Thank you so much for this!
I wish more people could explain things this well. My printer is currently printing well, and I'm still going to take it apart and do everything you just explained. Thank you very much! I subscribed to learn more.
Awesome visual aid and unquestionably the best, most descriptive, most informative video of the Creality type hotend. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
I know this is old but I just want you to know this is still probably the best video out there on the subject. This seems like a very underrated channel. I still don't understand why many suggest adding a small PTFE tube and a plastic spacer to the hot end instead. This seems just as vulnerable to issues but more difficult to work around... The only part I've been doing differently is using the nozzle to tighten against the tube instead of the coupling as it's a bit easier IMO. After a nozzle change I loosen it ~1/2 turn, push the tube into it then tighten it up. So far working great but using the coupling may be more reliable.
For me the short PTFE tube mod is perfect. That way I don't have to worry about the gap between the nozzle and the tube even if the other tube gets loose and wiggles around. I know that it's not at the hot nozzle the gap has built up because I've secured that with the "cut tube and spacer"-mod. I can also disassemble the extruder part and replace the tube without the need to worry about the spacing down at the nozzle. The only time I need to worry about that is when I change the nozzle itself. This has saved me time and headache as compared to the regular assembly. I've seen printers that have to fix and clean the heatbrake tube constantly due to a gap always reappearing after a while. The tube keeps creeping out over time. I've also seen printers with this cut tube and space mod going for months on end without ever needing to fix/clean the heatbrake tube thanks to the bits being well secured and fixed, even if the other tube creeps out. The worse they get is some stringing due to too much slack in the extruder tube. But that's much easier to fix than the gap between the PTFE tube and the hot nozzle. Again. It saves a lot of time and headache.
@@sysghost That makes sense, especially if the printer has old or crappy couplers allowing it to slip. Once that's resolved I feel like it's more about a proper routine. I never had issues in ~3 months with stock tube but I can't say it wouldn't of developed one. My extruder coupling was awful and started using my own version just after a few weeks. However the nozzle coupling was surprisingly solid from day one up until I replaced it with a better one. With the higher quality Capricorn tube, I see no signs of walking or warping and prefer the ability to quickly move, secure then tighten everything as one piece. If done right I can't see this ever causing a problem but if I had to stay on the stock tube perhaps I'd eventually see the reason many like you prefer the mod.
Just want to say thank you for this video. This technique solved my heat creep issues which was extremely frustrating not being able to print anything.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this great video. I've had my CR-10 for about 15 months now. I mainly do functional prints and love the idea of designing and creating things from scratch. Many of my more recent designs were made out of PETG. However, as best I can tell, the PETG prints caused my PTFE tube end (near the nozzle) to burn/scorch a bit which ultimately resulted in underextrusion and finally full hotend blockage. I tried replacing the PTFE tube with the spare one that came with the printer. However, I apparently didn't get the nozzle gap closed enough because it clogged again just minutes into the next print (wish I had seen your video prior to my efforts ☺). MY CR-10 printer is the greatest hobby item I believe I've ever had in my life. So I've ordered some Capricorn TL series PTFE tubing, some new PTFE couplings, some new .4mm nozzles, and some heatblock silicone socks. When I carefully reassemble this with the new parts this weekend, I'll hopefully be all set for at least another year of proper hotend functionality! Four questions: 1. I had a VERY nasty hotend goopy mess when my hotend started getting blocked extrusion on a really long print. This required me to virtually remove all of the cotton/capcon insulation from the hotend. Do you recommend/use silicon hotend socks once your cotton/capcon insulation gets worn out? 2. Is the method you show in this video the way you do all of your printers, or do you have an alternative (more preferred) method of assuring the PTFE tube seals tightly to the hotend? 3. I'm not expecting miracles from the Capricorn tubing, but I do expect it to be much better with the higher PETG temperatures than the OEM PTFE tubing. Any experience and/or feedback on Capricorn tubing?? 4. Got any suggestions for a favorite replacement cooling shroud (fang style) for the CR-10??
Yes the silicone socks are very nice and they're pretty cheap there's no reason to rush to add them but as you wreck the cotton and kapton replace with silicone they are easier to manage and easier to clean up when you have a mess they are a consumable and will eventually become riddle but you should get several thousand hours of printing before that happens it will be a long time before you have to replace it The method I show is the method I used and have always used and I don't have any problems of that nature The Capricorn tubing is slightly Superior to regular tubing it has a slightly better heat resistance but more importantly it has better tolerances so you're feeling it should fit more snugly through it which should give you better print quality with your retraction settings since the filament can't wiggle around as much It however is not in your uncle the PTFE tube is a consumable item I suggest cutting the tube 2 or 3 inch longer than you need so that has the end of the tube gets cooked you can snip off three quarters of an inch or so and reinsert it this will greatly extend life in the tube I have printed a petsfang but have not experimented with it yet I am over all quite satisfied with the stock cooling on creality machines
Thank you so much for answering my questions. I'll be sure to follow your tip on making the replacement Capricorn PTFE tube 2 or 3 inch longer so I can trim it in the future when needed. Yeah, when watching RU-vid about replacement fan shrouds, it seems that many people see very little difference in print quality. When I compare the questionable Bullseye/Fangresults to the extra mass the fang will add to the hotend, ringing is likely going to be the equal tradeoff...so I'll keep the stock shroud. I can't wait for the replacement/upgrade items to come in so I can resume my creativity!
Hey Chris.... as I write this comment my 3D printer is printing the first item since I did the bowden tube replacement. All looks really good so far but I'm keeping my fingers crossed and not counting my chickens 'till they're printed'. I 'may' make a little video to accompany yours wherein I tell a few things about my experience of changing the bowden tube "incorrectly" on my CR-10. These things would basically be. 1. If you own a Creality printer and truly enjoy using it (like I do), just go ahead and order some PTFE compression fittings, Capricorn tubing, extra silicon heat socks, and extra nozzles. Have them ready for "that day" that it finally happens (because it will). 2. Don't bother with researching whether or not Capricorn is really as good as they say it is because, no matter where you research it or who you speak to, ultimately you're going to get inconclusive findings. Simply go ahead though and by a meter of it to use during the replacement. Hopefully it'll work better than OEM, but for sure you'll know you did your best to use quality materials for the repair......cause believe me, you don't want to do this repair more than you truly have to!. 3. Yes, make sure to buy some silicon heatsocks. Sure you may still have clean/undamaged hotend insulation now.... but it only takes one serious bad print to cover the insulation so bad that there is no way 'on God's green earth (southern saying here)'' that you'll ever be able to salvage the OEM insulation during the cleanup. 4. How, if your print bed seems to have moved way too high during your efforts....because you find yourself having to suddenly crank the print bed down a lot after replacing your ptfe tube.... it's VERY likely that you did NOT tighten the nozzle enough (Sort of a 'hears your sign' revelation to me)! 5. How there's no need to even think about removing or reinstalling the nozzle WITHOUT heating the hotend up. Heck, I couldn't even get the nozzle to start aligning and threading into my hotend until I heated it back up.....then it went right in. 6. That it's a good idea to clean the hotend by dragging the ORIGINAL OEM PTFE tubing through the entire hotend a few times. The original PTFE tube is likely swelled to a slightly larger diameter that will be a tight fit in the hotend. Thus, it will help clear out the hotend throat more than the new replacement piece of PTFE. Then when you try to install the NEW piece of PTFE, whether it be OEM or Capricorn, it will likely readily and easily slide right into place better because it's slightly smaller than the used piece. 7. How tight the space is between the hotend's heatsink and the hotend wires to the right of the heatsink when you try to put the OEM metal fan shroud back in place .
Great video. Awesome visual aids! I'd suggest not tightening the nozzle against the block. Leave a small gap between the hex and the block, about a fingernail thickness. What I find to be most important is that the nozzle tighten against the thermal tube, not the block. The block will float, and is simply a coupling nut. Retightening when hot is important, because the block will grow when hot, and you will need to tight the nozzle against the thermal tube again. This is why I suggest to not tighten the nozzle until it bottoms out on the block. This new Creality version is pretty odd. The original design was better. The added screws are totally unnecessary. That being said, the stock hotend is just fine. It just needs proper assembly. Tubing cutters are worth the low cost. You did an awesome job on this video! Liked and Subscribed!
Great video. I have an Ender 3 that hasn't worked since the day I bought it. I wasn't doing the 2 turns on the coupler. That seems to have solved my clogging problems. Just printed out a decent benchy. We'll see how it holds up in the shop. Thanks!
Excellent However snug nozzle then loosen nozzle and push tube in, lock coupler then snug nozzle Spinning the locked coupler on ptfe tube can damage the tube or coupler lock. Here is what I do. Heat to 220 Clean it off Take nozzle out Remove bowden and coupler Clean out hot end so that a bowden passes free with no nozzle ***if you have a leak at top of hot block *remove fan shroud from hot end *Loosen grub screw in center of red *holding throat and give it a spin down towards nozzle *Snug new nozzle and to ensure it's good try to tighten throat again *Nozzle should be pretty close if not touching heat block, best to touch for better surface contact and heat transfer *Once you are sure throat and nozzle are good snug down grub screw *reinstall fan shroud Now back nozzle off 1 turn and reinstall coupler Be sure bowden is Clean and trim as flush as possible Insert bowden tight to nozzle and secure coupler with clip Snug nozzle while keeping pressure on tube downwards
