We are reponsible for every customer, so if you have any problems about your Creality 3d printer (especially when you need to use pics or videos to show these problems), pls contact our after service www.creality.com/service-request. We have very professional engineers there to solve your problems. Thanks for your support.
Just a heads up. Me and my dad were trying soooo many different RU-vid videos on how to get the printer level and printing correctly. If you follow this STEP BY STEP it will work!!! Don’t stress to much about it and everything will be okay! This is the only RU-vid video that has worked
You would be doing us all a great favor if you write down here the steps you follow because you appear to be the only one who can understand this person's version of English. Thanks in advance.
@@ramtek2702 you don't have to be able to follow his word for word explanations; he shows you step by step as he's explaining. Using context, you can figure out what he's saying.
@@mojopatriot2891 Please don't tell me what I can do just because you THINK you understand him. Even if you are right it's unconscionable for a company to provide this as a spokesperson for their top tier product. It shows a great deal of disrespect for us, their customers.
@@ramtek2702 dude, get over yourself. I am going to assume you don't speak Chinese; I don't either. I do, however, realize that these videos are made in China, by the company that makes these machines. As I said, I used a combination of his words, those I understood, as well as my critical thinking skills and the fact that he did every step on camera as he was explaining them. I was trying to be polite, but you're kind of a dick so politeness can go out the door. He speaks English far better than most native born Americans can speak Chinese, or wherever you're from. The vast majority of us seem to be able to work with what they're showing us; that says something about you, not them.
Coming from an Ender 3 Pro to the Ender 5 Pro Plus, I too got a little confused on the order of calibration. After working it out, I would suggest the following steps to calibrate the z-axis once the printer is setup. I hope this saves some time for new users of this fantastic printer. 1 - Spin each wheel so that they are in the middle of the screw thread to give you some room to adjust the bed up or down. It comes tightly turned with the bed locked. 2 - Zero the z-axis compensation - oddly you have to be printing something to get that menu option under "adjust". Then cancel the print job. 3 - Autohome the printer in the menu to let it find where it thinks x0, y0, z0 should be. The nozzle is in the center with z-axis at 0, bed is at the top most position. 4 - Use the menu option "Aux level" to move the printer head to each corner and adjust your z-axis using a piece of paper and the wheel. Do not push up or pull the wheel down as you adjust - only left or right. The paper should only have a slight tug. You need to repeat this at each corner until it feels all the same. Took me 3-4 rounds. Note - In this step, you may see the nozzle about 2mm above the bed after autohome. The menu should show Z movement arrow. This is used to compensate the 2mm Z difference between the nozzle and bed.. Move it down close enough but not hitting the paper/bed. Then use the wheels to fine tune with paper. 5 - Autoleveling tells you how much mm difference there is from measuring 16 points over the bed. This alone doesnt do much but shows you the difference between each point. However I believe this system is used during printing if you move the toggle for auto leveling to 'on'. With autoleveling on, before each print job, the printer will measure the bed to nozzle distance using all 16 points. You may not have patience for this but it does give a better print and bed adhesion. If your object is not sticking, adjust your z-axis leveling. With the PLA that comes with the printer, the bed can be cold and still stick. No aquanet on the glass bed, just clean with 90% rubbing alcohol. The "10" for z-axis is an approximation of where it should be. Don't assume all printers are calibrated exactly. Set the Z compensation to 0 first and re-calibrate. Make sure your Y belts are tight. Make sure your printer sits evenly on all four feet before calibrating.
In short. I have done it this way and it works 1. Home Z-Axis 2. Set Z-Axis to 10.0 if is not 3. Start a print job and set Z-Axis Compensation to 0.00 4. Start leveling 5. Adjust Z-Axis to a paper thickness (0.1 mm) 6. Start Aux-Leveling 7. Set all 4 corners to paper thickness (0.1 mm) (ist possible center will not fit anymore) 8. Start Measuring (Auto leveling) 9. Done
@@Raddekopp I guess it saves them anyway. But exactly these are the small things, that go make me crazy because I cannot understand, what the heck is going on in the firmware...
The one thing missing from all the other videos was the button press at 4:45 (Min./Sec.) I was truly stuck and could go no further. With out this it seems to not enter into the manual adjustment mode and I spun my wheels for hours over this one little detail. After you know it - I guess it is just muscle memory and it is easy to think everyone else already knows it too! Thanks so very much! On to printing my first ever 3D print! Those little details matter a lot.
4:39 before going on to level the rest of the bed after getting the paper to have some resistance, press the home button. It will then home and you can double check it’s correct. If it isn’t adjust a little bit again and home again and it should work great.
Thanks a lot, awesome video, which helped me fix a little miss when I built the machine - getting the Z to 0 before setting the bed will help! And it also got me to understand a bit better the levelling steps. There are 2 questions I came here for and haven't gotten answer: - How do you read the results after measuring? - What about auto levelling? Last point - English is not my native language, I can write / read fairly ok but I have some difficulties with audio - is there a chance to get captions? (if too much work, don't worry, the youtube auto generated captions help for the parts I didn't get :) ) Now off to cleaning my bed plate and let's get something printed!
Awesome. I believe that may have fixed my issue of being about a quarter inch (.25") away from the print bed while printing. From the other video posted on the webpage, I could see I was running the proper firmware already. I just didn't have the machine homed out properly in the leveling menu. Time to test a print to. I wish you guys would have programmed in a cancel button feature during the leveling process. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has wished this. Was a bit concerning that it would crash when it was going to home. It did crash once though when the extruder head was too far from x,y home... It wouldn't go the full distance of touching the sensors. Anyway, don't start any further away than center of the table and I think it's all good.
Wrong Aux-Leveling sequence! Start with one corner (eg. 2) then diagonal opposite (4), measure 2 again, check 4 ... until you are satisfied. Then the other diagonal (3/5). Then again 2/4 - 3/5...
Hint for Aux-Leveling: Start at point 2, level. Continue with point 4, level. Check Point 2, adjust level. Check point 4, adjust level. Redo until point 2 and 4 are perfectly leveled. Continue with point 3, level. Continue with point 5, level. Back to 3, adjust. backt to 5 adjust. Point 1 will be fine now. But first, to be sure check 2, 4, 3, 5. Then you CAN check point 1. (For fun). THEN continue with measuring. Then it´s only the crappy bed, what you are adjusting, not the crappy leveling. ;) Happy printing.
wow, I'm still not sure why we did the first steps, but this totally fixed my issue. (Issue being that the bed was rising up into the nozzle and jamming it up so much that it bent it. I had to bend it back.)
Home working good for me but when start leveling even if probe touch bed still rise till hit the print head... i had tu lower it instead of raise. How is that possible ? I have risked twice to crack the bed and bend / crack / ruin my print head and x rail.
For any one who comes here asking for Creality fixing the BLTouch offset, just give up, they do not care and they will not listen at all. They have been told to fix this since release and Creality do not give a rats ass about their customers. They keep ignoring it and even when you mention it for their support, they don't even comment, they just ignore you all together. I have yet another control board on the way (my 3'rd) because it keeps having issues with my 6 weeks old Ender 5 plus. First board E0 driver burned out after almost a day of printing. Second board will only boot 1% of the time. Their normal Chinese branded PSU is extremely dangerous as it has been proven by many big youtubers in the 3D printing space, again since release of this printer. There are grounding issues with the cheap PSU they use as stock PSU on the Ender 5 plus, at least i got them to ship a proper MeanWell PSU that is of high quality. The PSU issue is yet another problem they keep ignoring excusing that it is only a few. Funny how every single Creality printer owner i know have this issue, going back to the Ender 3, so Creality is lying to their customers, but worse of all is that they are gambling with theirs customer life to save money! So now I'm waiting on my 3'rd board for this printer, I will confirm that i can connect using USB and that it boots but after that is is getting put in a box as I've changed all controls to Bigtreetech. I would recommend every one else doing the same. Yes it is a rather big job to do so, but do what you can to get away from Creality garbage controller and their awful "support" and remember to check you PSU for grounding issue TH3D have a great video on this
Grounding issues are not a board problem as the grounding depends on continuity from the ground terminal to the chassis If you have any problems that Creality have not addressed then get in touch with Naomi Wu and ask if she can give Creality a kick up the butt to address your problem, she has a lot of influence with Creality and has in the past acted as a go-between for Creality customers. How is your printer now, did you add anti-backlash nuts to the lead-screws?
@@AndrewAHayes If you actually did the research you would see that the issue many RU-vidr point out, is the screw connection that connects the PCB to the ground terminal inside the PSU that is loose. I never said it was a board problem regarding the ground issue. I said that they have board problems, as in their controller boards are shit, and the PSU they use are shit :) I appreciate the info, but I should not, as a normal customer, have to go through some random person that have influence on Creality to get proper support on DOA product or have the company take problems that could kill their buyers serious. I ended up gutting the machine for all electronics except the motors and buy stuff that actually works. Oh and if any one wonders if they should buy Creality.... don't! Spend some more and go Prusa every day of the week, i reget buying their garbage.
@@Creality3D The video was very helpful. I'd suggest updating the title to 2022 to make people aware how to do it right now. I was a little scared that this video might not work for my Ender 5 Plus due to it being an older video, but worked perfectly.
Thanks for the interesting demonstration of printer setup. I liked the GUI for printer maintenance and also liked the construction of the printer … so I really liked the Ender 5 Plus 😍
Dear Creality: Please find a tech who speaks English. This young man is doing his best but he is not the one who should be doing this for your English speaking audience. Thank you.
@@mojopatriot2891 Name calling is always what people do when they run out of intelligent, meaningful comments on topic. It certainly didn't take you long.
Are you going to fix the bed cooling down when filament runs out? This is extremely poor design. I had filament run out before and while the print paused, the bed cooled down and my print lost its adhesion and position.
you have to print something, press the adjust button and adjust it down to zero. Its a pain, then stop the print and go back to the leveling menu and it should read 10. He does mention it in the video, watch it again. We really need a good paper guide for the leveling and offset.
I've tried this a few times now and cannot get my bed to level. I get the Z offset to 10 and level each corner with paper until it just starts to bind. If I then try to print the nozzle is about 2mm too high!
This also happened to me. First prints with the machine were great without any adjustments, then suddenly it started to print too high? Curious. Going back through now to see if I changed anything...
Over time the screw loosen up from vibrations of the printer... I used a hot glue gun and put a little glue on the screw and plastic screw turn to keep from moving
My nozzle hits the bed when it initialises the auto bed feature, the bl touch engages twice but on the 3rd attempt it disengaged itself so the nozzle crashes into the bed?
@@Brax_Torres yes mate, load a file to print, press print and then go into the settings and change the nozzle offset. Then cancel the print and start the auto level process, repeat until the bed is within 1mm under the nozzle then you can fine tune using the bed levelling springs.
How do you get the Z-axis to read "10" after auto-homing the printer? I can't print with SD card due SD slot isn't working. Waiting for new Main board.. So how can i do this with out print from SD card? It was ok, suddenly the printer run the bed into nozzle.. And both motors was still pushing up when i noticed.. Not a nice sound.. But hopefully all is ok. Bran new printer.. So annoying. now i cant print due it always go to high.. and scratch nozzle against bed..
Please try to format the SD card, and then insert it into the printer to see if it can print. If not, you can try to print the printer and computer online. Other problems can wait until you replace the motherboard to see if it still exists.
you need to add the offset of he probe to the ABL function because of the offset to the left the right side measurements are horribly skewed. The probe should measure the point where the print head should be, so you have about 50mm of offset to compensate for.
Thank you for this guide - one question I have is; should I leave Autoleveling "OFF" after completing this procedure? Also, after i complete this and go to Print, then "adjust" my Z axis is set at 2.30 where as I see your video is set at 2.20 - why is this?
This video is almost completely useless to me. I cannot tell which order to do the aux level vs bltouch measurement in. I cannot tell what the relationship between the 'z home' button, and the Z adjust buttons. I have read that maybe I need a 2mm (or is it 1.5 mm?) gauge block to set the nozzle height. Usually this stuff is fairly straight-forward, but the Ender 5 Plus firmware is pretty obtuse. Please consider making a new video, but actually making it about leveling the bed, not whatever this video is supposed to be about. The printer is quite nice so far, but lack of clarity on the very basic task of leveling the bed is pretty frustrating. The auto leveling takes a long time, and the time per-test is too long to be blindly adjusting settings and cranking leveling knobs.
Creality Ender 5 Plus BLTOUCH wire colours in to Bigtree SKR 1.4 Turbo BLTOUCH wire colours on th Creality Ender 5 Plus appear to be :- Red, Purple and Orange These go to a three pin plug which could be positioned ether way round on the Bigtree SKR 1.4 board, (there is a separate Black and White for pin sensor) Which Colour pin Red OR Orange should go towards the Black and White Pin sensor pins I assume here that the plug pins Red, Purple and Orange are in the correct order. If this is not correct please let me know the correct order. Thanking You!
I have done all this multiple times now. All looks good. Then start printing and it prints ca 2cm over the bed. I will soon through it out the window. Please help! Whats wrong?
Hey, could you pls fill this form www.creality.com/service-request about your printer's problem? Our after-sales staff will contact you as soon as possible.
Dude, I had the same problem. Change the Z offset (Z axis compensation) until you can see a good print. You can change this while the nozzle is printing. If the material isn’t sticking to the bed (nozzle is too high), press (Z-) many times until you get close enough. If the print is too squished or the nozzle is way too close to the bed, press (Z+). You have to figure out the best Z offset for your printer. Mine is around 2.42 mm.
I wonder how they display the 3:16 screen. Perhaps they raise the bed until it hits the BLTouch, which serves as the upper limit. Then they lower the bed until it reaches the Z-axis home position sensor, using the number of steps of the stepping motor to determine the Z-axis value of the home position. However, I can't physically find the Z-axis home position sensor.
Because that is the actual Z off set the printer set during the configuration. I think they configured 2.2 in the configuration. I manually dialed mine in at 2.4 so I am assuming that is close to the offset between the nozzle tip and the BLTouch installation.
Yes, after going through what the video said the nozzle was still too close to the bed. I did what darthinkwell did - run a print and keep changing the z offset whilst its printing until you see a change in the print - if the print filament that is deposited on the bed gets really thin then you are too high so start to change the z offset in the other direction. Do short increments of about 0.1-0.2 until you get that nice squidge on the first layer. Mine auto set at -3.74 after following the steps in the video but I ended up making adjustments to -2.5 which for my printer is just right. I've only had mine a day and it was a bit finicky to set up - my hot end nozzle had to be replaced as it wasn't machined correctly (way too small a hole), thankfully a replacement was supplied in the box, but once I figured that out and did this bed levelling, I'm really happy with the end(er!) results.
I found mine was whistling from one of the linear bearings on the Z supports. The fix for me was to switch the printer off and spin one of the Z motors a little (without spinning the other!) so that the sides were more level - the sound seemed to be caused by the linear bearings being forced off-axis a little, and raising one side a little helped with that for my. It took a bit of trial and error though!
Will be nice to have a tutorial to install it on standard Ender 5/Ender 5 Pro. Not so many people can afford to pay the money to get a Ender 5 plus and we also want to install it on our 3D printers.
Hi Creality team, we bought your Ender 5 plus and Ender 3 pro yesterday. Well packaged and manufactured machines, thank you. We were battling a little getting the z height correct and getting a sucessful print...until we found this great tutorial by Ben. So we just went started over and paid careful attention to what he was saying and doing, we copied everything Ben did and it worked the first time! A very high-quality print too. Many thanks for a great machine. Going to assemble the ender 3Pro now. Very happy with our purchase. Kind Regards Marc, Redline-3D.com
Hola! Muchas gracias por este video! Hace una semana compre esta impresora, mi séptima maquina y mi primer ENDER, y honestamente me gusta el equipo pero estoy muy decepcionado con la pobreza del firmware que tienen instalado el equipo. Y en este sentido los invito a que vean el desarrollo que tiene el firmware y todas las opciones de la impresora BIQU 1. Por otro lado me gustaría que expliquen por que deshabilitaron el M600 del Marlín y que me digan como poder hacer el cambio de filamento durante una impresión ya que llevo 4 días intentándolo hacer por favor. Muchas gracias!
Friend, sorry for the late reply and bad experience, could you pls record a video of your printer's problem, and send it to cs@creality.com. We have professional engineers there to help you.
Why doesn't the printer save its position? In my case, the position is reset every time I turn it off. Thus, it always prints into the void. If I align it and then go to 0 in the menu and start printing, it goes down another 4-5cm and does not go up again. I am not able to print for days because of this...
I already bought an Ender 5 plus. Is it correct, that the Bl-Touch is just a replacement of the top-stop switch? Because it isn't leveling anything at all in my opinion.
@@sammowbray9908 So I figured out the red flashing part but I'm still struggling with the print. From what I can tell, the red flashing stops when the BL touch does what's called a 'self-test.' You need to make sure the end of the BL touch that sticks out is in the UP position to begin with, then start the printer. Make sure the bed is low enough that when the end drops down, it doesn't hit it. If all goes well, the end of the BL touch should stick out twice, then pull itself back up. I believe this is to orient itself. Then it should just stay red. You can also consider watching this video to update firmware if it's behind! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ExuPoNZK_aw.html&t=
@@Raddekopp after I set I had to press the x Home before printing. I've just got the printer and 1st time I followed this video and printed it. After the 1st print, it was power cycled. When I turned it back on it went back to the original incorrect bed level. In a different video, the guy said "now make sure you press *EDIT - Z home before you print" I followed this video the did what the other guy said, printed, power cycled, and this time it remembered the new settings. Now, I'm totally new to this printer and could be mistaken, but something worked differently for the better!
@@Dax79 no, your good. Without your advise I had nothing but spaghetti. This very moment I making a perfectly good gear. Thanks in large part to your help. 👍
When you are installing the bed how far up would you reccomend the levelling wheels be tightened before you do the Z home and Z level with the paper in the centre of the bed to enable enough movement when you make adjustments with the Aux levelling?
Needed this video, i got a used 5 plus and the previous user had put a z offset of -18.86 so my nozzle was smashing into the bed...doing the print and then adjusting the offset trick (3:33) solved my issues! Thank you! maybe a reset all settings option should be implimented in the future firmware?
Hey I have a video idea and and something I need help with. Whenever my Cr-10v2 retracts, it squeaks really loudly. I have tried everything to fix it but nothing works if you could help me that would be awesome
@@ajfloats387 Please try to loosen the pulley on the extruder. If it does not help, you should ask the seller or customer service to explain the problem, and provide videos and photos.
When I auto home the ender 5 plus the nozzle smashes into the bed and lifts the Carraige like it wants to keep going. I have to turn the printer off. How can I fix the problem???????
Hello i have an issue with my ender 5 plus when i'm trying to leveling, It do X and Y axis normaly but for the Z it take two 2 and after le the motor doesnt stop and my nozzle starting to touch my heating bed any idea ? Thank you :)
I just got new MB to my Ender 5+ original MB had a defect/loose SD reader. But still i cant find any files. Tried to "slow" format SD card with error test, then put files back. SD card seams fine in windows, but still cant see anything in file/print menu. SD card formattet in right 32 format.
hi i have the same device but why i can,t adjust z offset with an accuracy of hundredths of a millimeter (i mean , when i want to adjust z offset i see these number 1.60 then 1.70 but you can adjust for example 1.65 or 1.66 ...)is there anything special?
You need to be leveling and homing every time ALL axis. But that is weird. There is a save settings button, if you have an Ender 5 Plus... That IS weird though.
At 3:13 in the video it says to check if the Z-axis is 10 or not. The video does not explain what to do if it is not 10, at least I did not understand it at all. Mine is at 11.6 - is that a problem?
Make sure the destroy my print mode is turned off. Great review but long ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--BFUf8S6-FE.html (15:44 turn off economy mode, this is what I'm talking about) Other videos might help. first layer ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AaF28dnDgKA.html (3:30) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pAFDEn3wGYo.html
first clean the plate with alcohol and make sure the level and z-offset are good. nozzle needs to be very close to the bed. I have experienced this quite a bit , so see how far the nozzle is and watch that video about setting the offset correctly.
My printer takes me to the Auxiliar Leveling menu with the 1 to 5 buttons but then the screen does not work. I can click the return button but clicking 1 to 5 does nothing. What can I do?
If in need of technical support, please email to cs@creality.com, which is our tech support as well as after-sale service.Due to tons of emails go into this folder, it maybe response you not instantly, I'd appricite you if you can wait for it . or join in the Facebook Group (facebook.com/groups/3110994512278883/) to discuss with thousands of experienced 3D printer users.
Creality needs to at the least... get an even mediocre programmer, as such a person would be better than whoever they have now. No matter where one goes you see customer after costumer with the same problem. With no viable solution, except going into the code and fixing the problem oneself.
Sorry for the late reply, and thanks a lot for your comment, but could you pls tell us your printer's problem, or contact our after service cs@creality.com?
Thats frustration talking, I have two, the 3v2 and the 5 plus.. I can assure you it's not a "code" issue. The internal board streams instructions encoded by the slicer, If you don't believe me, you can also configure octoprint on a raspberry pi, and it will ignore the internal board. You can also install alternate firmware. I have on my E3V2, its much better I think. Respectfully.
Is there a tutorial on how to install the bltouch in a ender 5 pro, with the new silent board? I will receive my printer soon and can't find any instructions.
The best firmware is the Insanity Automation V7.4.X, there is a firmware for the printer with many more Marlin features activated and the X Y offset for the ABL fault in the stock firmare fixed and a firmware for the screen for a much better GUI for those additional Marlin commands, the printer firmware is flashed via USB from a computer and the screen firmware is written to the root of an SD card and on the back of the screen PCB there is an additional SD card socket to insert that card and then turn on the printer, you will know it has flashed when the screen turns orange, you then remove the card and power cycle the printer, to take the bottom off the printer either turn it on its side or remove the bolts from the front and back of the control box and then turn that box upside down to remove the backplate
@@Creality3D I did, yet it was not shown what Firmware was the one to use, no description or info at all? When it says to click on the screen to each corner, the screen does not respond?
hi , i following your tuto but, after all levelling bed.. need again ajuste because de spring ajust under the bed is to low or to high and my print is no good.. all the time after 1 good print .. need ajust all the time again and a gain .. is normal ?? ( casters with spring under the bed is to hard or to soft) i try to mm ajuste same to you... sorry for my english
Got mine and had a helluva time leveling it.. There is no auto level option in my menus.. It says it's running the latest firmware according to the device and the website.. But the auto level function isn't present as an option.. Every time I measure it seems to reset and lose my leveling entirely.
I've seen the bed smashing hard into the print head, although the BLtouch is installed - shouldn't the printer be able to figure out that it reached the print head?
So the reason for doing this is the BLTouch detects a z-point...but the system overrides it. Hence why they zeroed everything out before...doing any aux and auto level. The BLTouch sense a predefined amount, then the z-offset kicks in. And it is why the BLTouch if you watch it...retracts BEFORE the nozzle even gets super close to the bed. Then the bed lowers...then it raises...to the touch sensor reading, the zoffset reading. So if you screw up the settings, super bad. The board is thinking...hey the BLTouch is here, and the bed needs to be here...so move this amount. And with the messed up setting the BLTouch is retracted, not acting like a z-stop, and boom your head will crash into the printer. BLTouch is NOT a z-endstop....and is the reason it does NOT use the zstop on the board.
@Singularity. Sir, That is not the case, you are peppering this video with inaccurate information. I can tell you don't know what you're talking about, as a programmer myself. Not everyone would be able.
I followed all the steps but was wondering, I I have to press Z at some point in the leveling menu so that the offset is stored permanently in memory (ender5+)
I calibrated my e-steps and then the X and Y steps, Then i try to calibrate the z steps but i cannot get the first layers to stick, I've done the paper test while setting the printer up, I setup the z-offset. All OK there but now i set my fist layer at 100%, 125% thickness, Nozzle at 0.4 and extruder multiplier at 100% and try to print a calibration block the Brim is printing awfully (almost does not stick) but when the printer is beginning to print the object my bowden extruder (the metal one) is clicking and skipping a lot, it seems he is trying to extrude to fast and to much. When i measure the extruded filament i get a thickness of 1.16mm strange. i tried everything (i build and i'm using several other printers and have never had thet problem) Could i have a bad motherboard somehow. I reflashed the firmware also and have the same problem. X and Y perfect but no sticking and the extruded filament to thick. O yes i'm printing on the back side of the original build platform because it is of glass. I put hairspray class 5 on the glass for the object to stick. On my other printers there is no peoblem. Any idea here would be helpfull because now i cannot print because of the extruding speed/flow problem.
Hi, once I updated my Creality Ender 5 plus to the lastest released firmware I do not have a chance to set english language. How to solve this problem?
@@DunkerHamp Nope... Still having dall in chinese. I solved partially using OctoPrint, so I manage all the printer remotely. Much more comfortable... I'm planning to upgrade the firmware by hand to Marlin 2.0
@@maxper75 It's a bug with the newest Firmware. Flash the previous version (1.70.2 instead of 1.70.3). I just had this issue 5 minutes ago and fixed it. The previous version is on their google drive drive.google.com/drive/folders/16596EvFWv9C9ClbavmHPc4J3MJ4_N3h_ I used the file "Ender-5Plus -BLTouch -0117_V1.70.2 BL（CN/EN）.hex"
Hi, after successfully using the printer for a month, the printer now suddenly wont go back "home" correctly. It should head to the right side, then top and finally to the center point, but now when I hit "home" it just goes up. What can I do to fix it? any ideas?
This video was a great help but can you please tell me what to use to make the plastic stick to the bed? I print with the bed at 75 degrees and the raft sticks but when i leave it to print it always comes away from the glass bed. I have the economy tab turned off.
Try cleaning the bed with rubbing alcohol and make sure you are printing at the right temp for the plastic you are using. Also make sure you don’t have any airflow (example: open windows or air vents) that is messing with the print/cooling.
sorry we could not find the original creator link on Thingiverse, so we upload the file to the google drive: drive.google.com/file/d/1gOJL-O3_k4zJtaArodK74f8MyYExMwv0/view?usp=sharing, if anyone knows the creator, please comment here, thank you for his creation and sharing :)
Bought 5 Plus last week, tried auto levelling bed with attached BL touch 4 times as per instructions- 4 scratches across glass bed- THEN followed THIS video, stopped, copied, restarted etc. Got as far as around 7 minutes in where he presses the home icon and the bed travels to the top and the BT touch turns Blue and stops the bed rising ready for auto calibration- NOT ON MINE- when I pressed the screen home Icon my bed travelled 20mm and stayed leaving a gap of around 200mm from the BL probe which is now NOT extending and turning Blue????? and will always reset to this position no matter what I try. Tried fitting a silent board to see if this would reset- NOPE. Will have to pay to get printer fixed now!!!! - Not even 1 print done!!!!
