до конца года достроим чулан )))По себе стоимости мерседеса .Надо было хотя бы посередине сделать отверстия ,чтоб меньше раствора использовать ,и кирпич будет легче и экономия цемента . Да и кладка чем легче ,тем меньше нагрузки на нижний ряд кирпичей,да и какая никакая термоизоляция .А вообще если уж делать такие "кирпичи" ,легче сразу опалубку поставить на всю стену и залить бетоном . Да технология этих форм смахивает на каменный век , Разбирай,собирай,вставляй-конструктор лего )))
Покрасить дерево обязательно. Да и без вибростола это фигня полная с таким сухим раствором. Замешать с теми же пропорциями, добавлением пластификатора и по весам, то будет нормально.
The problem with relative dry cement method is that you get voids from air bubbles in the mix and if you try to counteract this you get a pancake effect where there is insufficient moisture between each compressed layer and when partially dried the pancake can literally fall apart. Unless you have a 10 to 20 ton press to deliver 2000 lb per square inch pressure to get rid of the voids in a single compression stroke then slop moulding is the only method for DIYers that more easily removes voids so long as you have an vibration machine designed for that purpose.and molds that can be fixed to the table and are capable of withstanding the forces involved. The big picture is not only how many bricks one can make per day by the demonstrated method but the suitability of the bricks made for the purpose intended.
@@jimihindrix7977 I have not consider a video yet because I've jumped in the deep end by copying a simplistic but inadequate vibration table design that everybody seems to promote using a v-belt drive with a rocker spring isolated table top. This can of worms that I still struggling to cope with manifests itself when one goes from a 5 brick batch to a 20 or 30 brick batch. The table top drops and the vbelt looses friction or comes off altogether without idler pulleys with springs and or a motor height adjustment system. But what I have come up with ( worth mentioning in dispatches ) is a pretty useful slop molding system that couple two completely opposite ideas in a single fix. Taking a rigid soap mold concept aimed at dimensional stability from a youtube video, exact length and width or exact length and depth could be achieved by |_______| wooden rigid form cut and screwed to exact dimensions. The trick is make this section movable using SS piano hinges attached to the long side and a suitably sized base and to close the other side with a section that overlaps the ends that is also attached to the base with SS piano hinges and clamped to the sides using toggle clamps. Cutting a suitable size tile for the base enables a wet brick after about 1 hour to be removed from the mold after the initial set since both sides are lifted out of the way for it to slide out undamaged and the mold cleaned in situ for reuse. A slop mold system for bricks might be defined as a system of vibration molding that achieve a glass like surface on the bottom of the brick that is free of air bubbles using minimal water. I'll try and email you some pics.
I do not agree, If high-quality materials, then everything will be OK!I have a couple of such ready-made bricks, and in order to break them, you need to make a lot of effort, not with your hands, but with a sledgehammer!!!)))
I like everything about this "IDEA" however, there's 2 things wrong here..... the bottom is open therefore you're compacting the cement to whatever is underneath when you do it so its very possible you can have issues with your bricks later from that. You need to have something underneath. The second thing wrong with this is that there's just not enough water, doing it this way with little moisture will cause it to be brittle and have possible air pockets because you do not have enough pressure during compaction and the integrity of your bricks could very easily fail. It is a great idea but there needs to be a few modifications is all 👍 👌 👍
