This video explains three different methods for creating scribed detail for scale model construction. Details about the different Swiss Pattern Files can be found here: paulbudzik.com/... Scale Model Workshop website: scale-model-wo...
Paul, I want to thank you for re-kindling my interest in scale modeling! I love how you solve problems and your overall approach to all things related to the hobby. You're lessons on scribing panel lines and details have been especially helpful. I now use those techniques on everything that has soft details. I've even enjoyed taking old 1/35th scale Tamiya figures and scribing in sharper details. It's amazing to bring older models to life with crisp detail. Thank you for sharing your wisdom!!!
@@scale-model-workshop I'm sorry, I'm not that D Hill. Thank you again for all your great videos! I'm so happy to see your techniques. I've been a great fan since seeing your work in FineScale Modeler magazine.
Just getting into scribing, I have watched a few other videos, bought specialized tools... your tutorial shows that its as much about the tool as it is the material. I realized using a special scribing tool would have made lines way too big for my 1/72 jets. Back to the dental picks I bought 10 years ago! This is the best scribing video as you explain what is happening inside the material, not just scratching a line in something. Thanks!
I'm so glad I found u again Paul! I wish I could show you specialized Japanese scribers called "BMC" sizes run .075mm -3mm in .025mm increments and made from tungsten and leave a square bottom! They are originally made for Mech models, but I bet they would be amazing for aircraft models! Thanks for all u share Paul. If you can even see my profile picture the scribes are the scribers I was referring 2!
I found this very interesting. I'm going to try all methods of panel line enhancement to see the results I get. I'm sure there will be many mistakes but it's live and learn. I made many mistakes in the Marine Corps and I lived through it, these mistakes will on!y mean to start over. Again, thank you for the information.
Thank you so much for this video, Paul. I was able to rescribe some panel lines in a kit I did body work on. The fine line tape is great! They are straight and clean! Thanks!
I've scribed many Revell/ Monogram kits. I once thought it was a daunting task, but found out that I was wrong. For me, I have used Dump tape as guides and a sewing needle chucked in a pin vise. Lately though, I have used a sewing pin, put into a Bic retractable pencil. I have found I have so much more control with both, over the dental picks.
11:25 “There’s only one thing: you need to be careful not to make mistakes.” Ah... Well... I think I’ll do the “scribing primer” method, then. Great video!
Thanks for the excellent tutorial. I watched so many videos but finally i found a decent one that explains everything. Where can i get the tools shown in the video around 2:28. Are these two scribe tools modeling specific ? I cant seem to find theme anywhere
New sub scriber here - see what I did there...Ok, ok. So I'm going to build a kit that has very bad and deep, not to scale, panel lines. My plan will be to sand down most of the kit, fill the worst lines, and then re-scribe them. All this time I'm wondering what is the best material to fill the lines with, so that when I scribe over them again, they will not blow out. You touched on re-scribing panel lines that fall on seams, but only briefly mentioned using CA? Is there such a thing as CA putty or are you simply referring to CA glue? The panel lines I will be dealing with will need filler, and that filler needs to be strong enough so I can scribe it, just don't know what to use. Thank you in advance.
Thanks Paul! If I went into my dentist's office to ask for used instruments (or even if I wanted to buy new ones through my dentist), what are the technical names I would ask for?
It is a bit difficult, because numbers and names are not universal. You really need to see the manufacturers samples. And to be honest, use of hand instrumentation is not as common as it once was, so your dentist might not even know what you are referring to.
Hi Paul been following you for years but this is the first time I have asked a question. Scribed panel lines and decals. To be more specific door and hood shut gaps on racing cars. Having great sucess with all manor of decals except getting them to lay down into, what we call in the UK, shut lines or panel gaps. I always use Microset and Microsol solutions but after scribing these they are maybe too deep, any seggestions please. Kind regards Dave London
Most of the time, I'll get the decal in place and do a round of Micro-Sol and make sure the decal is set and won't move. When it stiffens up a bit, I will take a sharp #23 blade and rock it through the groove ... making sure not to pull or distort the decal. Then apply more setting solution and get both sides to snuggle down. I then repair the small gap between the two halves with a little paint that I mix to match. The trick is to NOT cut the decal when it is soft and pliable because it will stretch and distort and you will have a lot more to repair than just the little gap.
Dear Sir, exceptional and immaculate explanation, very useful tips for upcoming modelers yet I can't shake the feeling that all of your models, built and finished are somewhat sterile :( They all (almost all - Typhoon, Boing 314, P-47...) look as if they came down from the assembly line or had just a flight or two... No disrespect for you or your work, which is amazing, yet more of a personal preference or remark. Still it is very kind of you to share your immense knowledge and experience! My utmost respect!
You'll probably find that's the case with most of us who live in the world of scratchbuilding ... the model is the focus rather than the dirt. I find the current trend of indiscriminate and seemingly mandatory preshading, tedious to say the least. So yes ... it is a personal preference.
Why is it always necessary to show weathering.. I see no problem in displaying models that appear to have come straight off the assembly line. I, for one, like the look.....After all, its how the subject started.
Your skill is fantastic and educational at the same time. As a returning model maker after nearly 40 years, the techniques that you demonstrate are really helpful for me to learn new ways and brush up on old methods of attaining the results I desire but also authenticity. Thanks for taking the time and effort to help young and old alike, keep the videos coming please.
I was getting worried panel lining would take years, but if done in the paint it seems quick and with better results! I love the idea of underpainting the panel line colour and having it show up when you scribe!
G’day Paul, I’ve got to thank you for your excellent videos and much more for your outstanding modelling results. That PAA Clipper - scratch built! - is simply breathtaking. I’m way too old now to aspire to scratch building, one of the, ironic, reasons being I smashed up my right wrist in an Air Force accident. This doesn’t allow me to do really intricate work, yet I can still knock out a passable plastic kit plane. Because I’ve spent a lot of time up close with many different aircraft types, one of my goals is to make them look as ‘authentic’ as possible and a video like this is extremely valuable to me. From a distance people don’t see the scratches, stains, painting mistakes, dust and the effects of the weather. I do, of course, try to tone this down in smaller kits otherwise ‘real weathering’ would become way too obvious. Although I’ll never be in your league, I’ve subscribed and I’m now going through your films for more valuable tips. Thank you very much. Cheers, BH
So glad I followed up on this video after your Griffon swap videos. I am putting together a Tamiya Mk V and an Airfix VXII to make a Seafire Mk III. This video is fantastic to review :)
Also thank I so much for the tip scribing after priming! I found using Pentel .3 mech pencil it leaves just enough of a indentions/micro scratch where I can nearly free hand my first cut lines. This saves me so much time, not having to deal with DAYMO tape!! Do you have face book so I can share you with the Younger, and rapidly growing Gundam model circles?
