This is the only decent video on RU-vid showing the technique with a press for this vehicle on a lower ball joint. After the creator answered a few of my easy questions, I pushed the ball joint out in about 2 1/2 mins. I will also be making a video on this procedure to help back this great video. Without you guys, I wouldn't have done it. I will shout out in my video.
Oldsmob455 thx for posting video. Extremely useful especially for someone like myself who does a lot of stuff at home but who has never attempted a ball joint replacement. Things went pretty smoothly I struggled with the lower ball joint threaded portion for about 7 hours very stubborn little bugger refused to come out of the steering knuckle. I eventually built a pushing tools out of angle iron and threaded rod and that worked. Installation is the easy part. Went very quickly and smoothly. Thanks again.
Excellent tutorial. No unnecessary bs. They should all be like this. Great job fellas. After reading some comments I said pretty much what everyone else is saying.
extremely well made, very informative. I appreciate that you showed the "warts" and all, ie- when the boot did not fit etc, because those things do happen and seeing it might save someone hours of frustration. I also like that you used the right tools for the job, (ball joint press, support jacks /stanchion vs a hammer. An excellent video that makes the job look so easy--which is a testament to your expertise. Thank you.
its hilarious you say that, my auto body shop owning stepdad was bitching the entire time we had to take the fender off "most complicated car ever!" well yeah I mean its not a toyota but still lol
@@rixille true, took us hour and a half to take one fender off, insists we take the bumper off too lol.. me and my biological father who used to drag race get it done in like 20 minutes and leave the bumper on lol and there was no bitching and whining in between, just cussing
Easy enough for a veteran, and only if more video's would be like the one you just shared, so many want to get all smart, only to see just how hard they have made things, not only for them self, but for anybody taking the suggestion, lol. Again, a big Thanks!
Thank you for posting this. My old Crown Vic needs new ball joints and even though the parts even for the high quality pieces are affordable though all that work is when the costs begin to add up.
This is the first one of your videos ive seen, i have to say you have the most detailed and informative DIY vids for mechanic work ive seen on youtube. A1
mark the adjustment cams " with a cold chisel or maker before you take the upper ball joint off and you will have a happy medium when your done not a perfect aliment but close enough to drive
Great video, of course it's just like my 00 Town Car, and I have replaced both upper ball joints, interesting to see the double pickle fork idea, I have used just one but I can see how that makes it easier. Def need a ball joint press for the lowers. And of course a lot of grunt work lol. Def a physical job but I love the work.
The place where I get my oil change wants to do all four ball joints on my '02. They said they replace the whole lower control arm, not just the ball joint. Is it easier for them or what is the deal?
Good video but shut the air compressor off lol. I got 150,000 miles/12 years out of my last "cheap" ball joints so I wouldn't knock them. Usually old CVPI's need complete front end's done right away, and you can get a complete kit off eBay for $399 with a mixture of Taiwan and USA parts. One tip is I would tack weld in the lower ball joints if it's been done before. I bought "oversize" this time but they weren't an wider in diameter, just the knurled part that seats was longer. I tack welded them in like I did the last ones so they don't drop out. Also good time to check your upper control arm bushings, mine are shot and squeaking hella bad so I have to go back in and do those.
So is it cheaper to replace the ball joint and bushings on the lower arm control or jus buy a new lower arm control I have a 98 crown vic and it's squeaks every time I turn the lower arm control cost 169 at auto zone and ball joints and bushings are like 17$ a piece
I have a 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis and I found some old ball joints that are actually brand new in my late father's garage. He had I believe it was a 97 model would it be likely that it be compatible with mine? thank you
Well done video - What's the difference betweet '94 and '95 Crown Vic ? just had right one collapse -damn lucky no one in back of me and only going around a corner- but I'm guessing that's when it's most likely to fail (ie making a turn - rather than going down the Interstate)
We replaced the ball joint without the press used a stand back to help lift it up but ball joint was loose is it better to use a press? don't have one would have to rent.out one , thanks in advance
How far should the ball joint go up should I be able to feel a little gap between the bottom of the ball joint and control arm? Plz I need an answer like ASAP anyone plz help (2000 grand marquis
I Have a 2000 Grand Marquis with stiff steering. Ball Joints replaced twice and steering is still stiff. I turn the wheel to turn right or left and when I let go of the wheel it will not correct back to the center. I am in the process of elimination at this point. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!
@nthpokt hi sorry response took 2 years...the steering column universal joints can get very dry and stiff on those cars. Try spraying em with SPRAY GREASE (motorcycle chain lube). I had same experience... above worked beautifully. Hope this helps.
"... i had to use a 24 inch breaker bar with a cheater pipe on top of that to have them slowly start budging, pressing them in for some reason they kept going in cockeyed too..." Chilton/Haynes says the ball joint is fused to LOWER (LCA) a-arm. These boot are pain in the ass, I used a socket to press the boot in the ball joint..." I was going to replace the LCA with a loaded (a-arm+ball) unit, but maybe thats even MORE work?
@@mikeheckathorn5692 doesn't mean the ball joint is gonna come out. I've had that same type press on mine for 2 weeks, while soaking it with PB Blaster, and it hasn't moved a bit. Gonna have to remove entire control arm and take it somewhere to a press.
Very informative. I was quoted $950 to replace the upper and lower ball joints on a 1998 Ford Crown Victoria. Is this a fair price for parts and labor?
Yezzir. Upper/Lower, Alignment. If I include new rotors, break pads, KYB shocks...I'm looking about a $1800 bill. I love my Crown Victoria and want to make sure it covers a 1700 mile round trip in comfort and safety. I'm also considering some Australian Sheep skin seat covers for comfort ($600).
Thats a lot of money, if you know someone with tools you could do upper and lower for 40.00 so of course they are charging big labor but it's really not complicated. These guys in the video used a lot of hand tools just like any backyard mechanic. Only real thing you can't do probably is an alignment but those are not too expensive
+VOOODOOO What I was thinking to. I remember when I did my intake maniforld for the first time it took me a few hours. Now it take me no longer then 70 min to an hour! My lower just went ou ton me 3 hours ago. Good thing I was less then a block from home. The tow truck driver ended up being an old high school friend Ive not seen in about 12 years. Come to find out he has his own shop and want to charge me 150.00. I would like to help my self just for experiences to place under my belt! If he cant this video is very well informative and im almost wanting to make it a nice fall back plan! As he was looking around under the car said everything else was intact and was surprised there was no other damage considering how the collapse had happened! Think that was Jehovah's hand there cause I was on the highway about 40 min before it happened!
I'm also having a lot of quality control problems with Napa stuff. The ACDelco / Motorcraft stuff always works right. It's a shame , we have a local Napa store with very knowledgeable staff and good customer service but the quality control is just bad. A lot of their parts are made in China, Vietnam, Korea, .... :/
@@adamcrownvictoriacarrepair7105 With a proper "Computer Alignment", Camber settings can't be set correctly with damaged ball joints -- upper or lower. Toe settings are part of any alignment. 17 MOOG Greasable fittings on my car -- Cop Shocks, Brakes, & Sway bars. Steering is PERFECT. However, you're free to do whatever you want. I don't make the rules. 😁
Don’t think same year Lincoln Towncar is probably the same. You will start by shearing the bolt on the top of calliper. Then it looks so easy to loosen those bolts but don’t forget he’s using a lift. You don’t have one and trying to get a 24” breaker bar inside the well or even a pipe is hard. Be prepared without a lift takes infinitely long much swearing.
Well hell, it sure isn't working this easy for me. Damn thing hasn't move at all. Looks like I'm gonna have to remove the lower control arm off and take to a real press.
You should NEVER use impact guns on screw presses (like a ball joint press) EVER. It Is murder on the threads. ONLY use a hand wrench(ratchet/breaker bar) AND make SURE that screw is LUBRICATED thoroughly with moly lube!!
It's a shame that the car makers try to save money on production cost by using no serviceable components. Cruise control yup, climate control yup, ride height control yup but those grease zerks on front end components got to go...geez..
buy a moog and dont replace it in 4 years.. i learned my lesson dont buy cheap ball joints with those thing rubber shields that have a wire that holds them on.. pure junk
