That was very interesting to watch. Your tips for the bearings were spot on. That is a fine column and the dash came out great. Everything is supported nicely and not going anywhere. Great Job!
I said it once before. You are inspiring. I don't know what keeps you motivated but you are keeping me motivated and all I'm doing right now is drywall work for myself. However I do body work for a living and I respect the thought that you put into everything you do, one section at a time with no fancy tools.👊
You have inspired me to get into doing things that I never thought I could. I wish you could see some of the things I have done using skills that you showed me. My brother as well. We just spent all day in the Garauge yesterday working on the vehicles and having a blast. I am 51 years old and I have spent my whole life as a mechanic working on drivability and electrical/software problems. I lost the enjoyment of working on that stuff. But doing custom fabrication has given me back the childhood enjoyment of working in the Garauge again. I can’t thank you enough. I love and watch all of your videos, I do like and share them. Great job on Crusty
AGREED! I hate electrical / computers. I'm old school as tony is and i realized I dont need thousands of dollars in lathes and milling machines to build an awesome car. love them junk yards now. all most as good as a day fishing......
Nice build... Not your first rodeo. I see your Rodent🐀 Recovery Technician 😸 is out making the rounds. Life is good when you have a well-trained and motivated staff. Thanks for sharing.
Fantastic job tony. Your tips are always good.. and the humor with the precise one of a kind pipe clamp had me rolling . Thanks for sharing all your knowledge tony .. until next time ill stick around
I don’t use water to cool down welds but I have used a cold wet rag on the backside of something while welding in certain situations where u really don’t wanna put much heat into something or worried about burning through thin metal. Whatever it takes sometimes! Great vid bud👍
Next Week, Fitzee fabricates a race car with Heinz Beans cans!!! 😂 Love how you just use what you've got layin around. Great Vlog keep up the good work always fascinating.
Awesome. Love the column. I love how u figure out how to use various pieces of simple metal to make swell engineered product. How u do your vids is very nicely put together as well. Thanks Fitzee
Best Design! Solid thought process. I have no fear working with simple tools and making mistakes. you ought to see the VW bus we got going on with a camry engine.
Good job of explaining mounting of dash, steering column and brake assembly. You have explained things that will help me when I build my old $50.00 rusty1941 plymouth project car using donated S10 components.Great educational video.
It's more fun cutting one too short, then cutting one too long, than resorting to that complicated thing of multiplying the diameter X 3.14 or whatever.
I was late following the crusty videos and actually went back to the start after new year. It's incredible to see how far crusty has come since the start and the huge amount of advice you have given throughout that's helped me with my project. I'm looking forward to seeing this tomorrow 😃
Tony, The older horn slip ring, from the old Chevy's you questioned were hot. The slip ring is grounded through the stearing wheel since the relay coil is floating hot. When you hit the horn ring, the relay is energized and applies 12 volts through the secondary side to the horns. Just like the dome lights accept there no relay for them. You mentioned maybe putting a boot over the area below the steering wheel. Could you use a boot from a CV joint? What you just did was absolutely incredible. A lot of thought and time was put into that dash area. Nice job.
Tony, I am subscribed and I clicked the bell so I am notified when you post a new video. This one had been posted for over 4 hours and no notification. I found it listed on the main page when I refreshed it to see some new suggestions, most of which RU-vid recommends are trash. You cannot trust RU-vid.
One thing I saw thats bitten me before was seeing you use the unibit to open up the hole for the steering shaft after you precisely located the center of the shaft. I've found out the hard way they dont stay centered on the hole once you start stepping out the size. Lesson learned the hard way for me
Awesome video. I see why you put the column in before the floor. I wish I could send you photos of my project. I will continue to learn from you . Yes the tips weee good. Thank you
Lookin good! You might look at using a CV joint boot to cover the exposed shaft. I think that would look pretty good. Also, I've used bearing for wheel barrel wheels. They have a flange on one side that holds them to your outer pipe. And best of all they cost a dollar or two.
Those bearings are eccentric locking collars, they are designed to slide together and then turn the eccentric collar counter to the rotation of the shaft to lock the bearing race to the shaft, tighten the set screw and it will stay in place. Since you will be turning the shaft both directions it wouldn't matter which way you locked it.
You are correct except for one thing. You are to lock it in the SAME direction as shaft rotation. Think about it. With the collar locked to the shaft by the set screw. as the shaft turns it will tend to further tighten the collar on the bearing. Doing it your way, the rotating shaft is attempting to loosen the collar on the bearing.
Peanut checking out the snow and wondering when it will all melt and the weather will warm up again. Then deciding it's way too cold out here, let me back inside quick.
Hey Tony. You really had to roll up your sleeves for that build. Hope you can find the other side of that harness plug. Maybe use a CV joint boot on the steering shaft between the wheel and the plastic housing to make it look a little more better. Thanks for posting.
Tony, I have something for you, to trim up the exposed shaft behind the wheel. I'm not sure if it'll be within your budget range, as it's a high class solution, but an inner tie rod boot from a steering rack would be perfect to cover up that shaft and maintain its dignity out in public.
Hi Tony. You would think that a steering column, being a pretty uncomplicated mechanical device, would not require such a high level of fabrication. That old Chev column was just the ticket though. In the end, it looks great. I also like seeing the great explorer coming home, out of the woods, at the end! Thanks for the video!
Forget about Dat Just set that there Awesome Fitzy AS usual Keeping it simple Nuttin Fancy !! Cue Applause Smiley!!! My Motto in the Garage is very similar "Keep it simple Stupid!" Just one step at a time and don;t get ahead of yourself, Just the way you do 👍👍👍
an access to¯a lathe would have made the task so much easier, simply 2 steel ( or plastic )plugs that have contained the bearings you've choosen. very good fabrication work and very good video
Every show I think, it can't get any better. I am always wrong, it gets better every episode. I knew there was a reason I never throw usable scrap away. By the way, lightening holes on the column braces - Full Race!
I’m glad you enjoyed that because I would have found it very frustrating I think. I’ll admit I might have done that credit card swipe thing you mentioned.
I believe those bearing collars are eccentric. By turning them they cam lock the bearing to the shaft. Edit, I should have watched a little longer. You figgered it out.
Tony I always enjoy seeing the way you figure through things. I do have something I would like to use on my build. Take a look at the Prius power steering set up. It is just a small motor that connects under the dash and is right on the column. Very nifty way to give your car electric power steering for cheap and so simple. Have you seen them used before?
How do you plan to remove the rivets from the engine end of the steering column once all the other stuff is installed under the hood? I thoroughly enjoy your videos and the work that you do. I have learned a great deal and have used your techniques for replacing sheet metal in my Mercedes project.
It's more for service then anything else. I just like to make stuff so it can be taken apart. I say once it is in there there won't be much work done to column
I am hoping 100's of young people watch your videos, your thinking and skill must be learned. I wish you brain could be transferred to the youth of America because no collage can teach what you know. Bill LI NY
If you put a plastic bag nice and tight around the roll bar and then fill the dash pad with expanding insulation foam it will fill in the gap, and make your job easier when you cover the panel with new vinyl.
Another great video as usual but i have a question…. Why did you insist on having the wheel so far from the column?? I imagine there’s a good reason why you want that rod exposed and I’m curious as to why…
More for comfort. When your belted in you can't lean forward and to have the wheel is stock location my two arms would be locked straight and that's very uncomfortable. Also as it move forward it lowered down and takes away room for my long legs
Those bearings are tapper lock bearings, they have a drilled hole on the black ring that you can use a punch to tap it around to lock it in place and then use the set screw to keep from coming a lose
Tony I'm concerned that the column won't collapse if you wreck up it looks too much like a spear? Should the shaft collapse behind the firewall and not just in front of it? Only asking because I respect your work! I would feel bad not asking if I found out I could have prevented a problem from asking a question!
My view on this is that it's true for a crumple car, this being fully caged, it would require a much bigger impact to move the shaft up. It stays a potential hazard regardless.
The steering changes angle at the firewall with a joint. The steering is not bolted in the car but part of the roll cage. For the shaft to move it would have to take the cage with it. Now if the impact is that big the engine will come in to the car before the steering will. Collapsible steering was a problem when the steer box was forward of the wheels. And the connection to the box was solid from there back.
I'm wondering how you are going to tighten those locking collars? Theu are meant to be ""tightened" by using a punch to turn the collar on the bearing centre and bind on the shaft, then locked with the set screw. If those collars aren't super tight you could have the same scenario as your friend when the steering shaft moved forward and caused the u joints to bind....
Yes, those are locking collar bearings. Place your bearing where you want it, there use a punch to rotate the collar then tighten the set screw, it’s locked to the shaft. Great thing is you don’t need to use the collar if you don’t need it. Thanks for sharing
