On the other hand I just received my V2 and it is not exactly the same as on this video. Impossible to easily adjust the spacing of the pedals. At 1"05 of the video, impossible to pass the key, there is no more space around the bolt.. It is honeycombed like the rest of the underside... Incomprehensible. Also incomprehensible at this price not to provide the 4 screws needed to attach the pedal board. Save your stickers from the last century and provide screws instead. The video is very good.
@@ShanDiegoMG I'm the one with skills issues, right? Is this the meaning I need to understand? If that's it, I'll just tell you that I'm an industrial mechanics technician. So no, it's not 3 screws that will cause me a problem. It is above all a manufacturing defect with pedals which are impossible to translate.
@@superking-nicolaslucau7252 No, but that's not it at all. This is because the pedal did not have the machining to allow the pedals to be translated individually.....
I think they don't supply screws for hard mount because some rigs may vary. Ex I mounted my previous set (Thrustmaster T3PA) to the wooden plate and after that I mounted plate to the rig. Because for 3 pedals only got 2 bolts to screw them. Now some cockpits may vary, ex you get too long or too short bolt, may damage your rig or acre and nuts, they just don't want another problem. I understand, they might got us 3 different lengths of screws, as we pay 299 EUR for the pedal set, that will cost them less than 1 EUR. But I made my aluminium profile rig 100% DIY (bought of course all the parts, not manufacturing them) and got a lot spare screws nuts and washers laying around so form me it is no problem at all. Even used some standard m8 hex bolts and standard nuts (not the profile used ones) and they did a good job on joints where are no really strong forces. And these standard nuts came like 10x cheaper than dedicated in profile sliders.
Based on this video I bought these pedals as an upgrade from my csl pedals just brake and accelerator no load cell. And my word I am so impressed with modulation for braking acceleration. Thank you so much for the hard work you do in reviews races and everything else to give us a better understanding of products, hints and tips etc. awesome extremely happy with purchase and place on my Prime Lite Rig.
@@RoLexX57 Ive read a lot about the pedals being too stiff. Even with 30% Brakeforce on the softest elastomers, i cant reach 100% breaking and i was unable to create as much travel as seen at 10:30. Im really asking myself if i just have weak leg muscles :D, or if it is just a matter of getting used to loadcell pedals. I am aware that travel is not the determining factor on ladcell pedals, but im really confused how some people can easily press the pedals to the absolute limit.
@@DomB_Fanatec Hi, it was from the fanatec webshop email address. I've swapped my clutch to be used as my throttle and everything is working fine even though they said this wasn't possible.
Ok great so this does work then?! Because that is my only problem, i like to have a little stiffer pedal as gas, like the clutch, can't wait to test this out tomorrow 🎉
@@kawabunga9945 yes, it works no problem at all. I've had the pedals since they came out and ran the clutch pedal as the gas pedal from day one with no issues.
I watched this video and found out that there is a new driver and firmware update. I updated my own CSL DD wheelbase, McLaren GT3 V2 and Formula V2.5X, and also updated the V3 pedals via USB connection. like. The wheelbase started to deliver more detailed force feedback, and the pedals did not match the travel of the pedals in automatic mode, so I adjusted them to suit me through manual mode.
Congratulations on this video. Setting up was a breeze and makes me look forward even more to actually using the pedals. It is such a customer-friendly move to just have only one driver package for all Fanatec products. No searching, no mistakes, just install, restart, done.
These pedals were tightened so tightly to the footstand that I could barely unscrew them, but it's still a great product, although the elastomers could be a bit less hard.
Hi my pedal stopped working while I was playing F1 '23, and ever since then the device never detected from wheelbase, control panel and fanalab anymore. I was playing through RJ12 cables, and never had any issues until it just randomly not detected anymore while mid-race. The pedals also can't be detected by USB cable, which blocks updating firmware or troubleshoot. I only used this for 3 months which is fairly new, and had reached to support but never got respond. I just want to enjoy racing and this happened which broke my heart. I wish I can get support from here and hopefully get back to race again. My only suspicion for this is connector failure as that's the only thing which connects to all the other devices. Thank you
Very good Guide, thanks for that! 👍 I wonder if the pedals would also remain stable if you have them on the ground without attachment. E.g. with the three 65 elastomers, the light spring and with 25-50% Brakeforce? Attaching the pedals to a heavy wooden plate would probably not be so easy or? Would the pedals just like to use on the desk and later possibly on a rig. So I only have to buy once. Thanks 🙂
I can't get the screws out of the pedal. I tried with a 45nm machine and the screws didn't loosen either. The lower part of the pedal looks different to me. I can't put a wrench in there.
Who tightened the bolts holding the heel plate down, The Incredible Hulk? Taken me 20 minutes just to get the first one out! All I want to do is move my brake pedal to the left a bit - took me 5 mins with my old T-LCMs!
@@yesyouarecorrectbut I had to take mine somewhere and have one of the bolts broken off. The internal piece had obviously been cross-threaded during manufacturing and was broken when I eventually got it free. Fanatec did eventually advise me to send them back but by this point I'd had it removed and managed to secure to my rig regardless, so I declined. It's definitely a production issue though.
@@danielalmond3272 Yes maybe I just bring it to a mechanic who has better tools! Don’t want to wait a month+ to play again Thx for the response, it’s definitely a construction issue!
How should I use these pedals for F1 racing? The break pedal is way tooooo stiff to use it for braking I think... should I just use clutch pedal as a break?Btw, is there a way to make the break pedal less stiff/hard?
Does anybody has a link to a website selling the bolts,, washers and nuts needed for the hard mounting ? I don't find this knd of kit on amazon. Thank you in advance..
Hi, thanks for this video I've succesfully replaced the gas pedal with the clutch and removed the gas pedal to move the brake pedal to the left (F1 setup). Can I ask how you put the brake pedal all the way to the left and the trottle all the way right like in 3:46 @Fanatec. I don't have enough spacers to put on the alignment rod for it. Thanks!
I think I lost the spacers… I want to remove the clutch pedal, but I need to replace it by 6x black plastic spacers, but cannot found them. Anybody can tell me if there are in the box. I cannot remember if there was some of them in the packages or not.
You get used to it. After a 1 week I get used to it. Set the brake force to 5-10% and after you get used to change it higher. Now I'm driving with the 65 elastomers and blue spring and 35% brake force. You just need some time.
Hi Mauro, the softest configuration is the one that is pre-installed from production (Shore 65 elastomers and the blue spring), as shown from 4:17. You can also reduce the amount of force required to achieve 100% brake input by lowering the BRF setting in the Tuning Menu, as shown from 10:06.
@@DomB_Fanatec Even with the lowest configuration and BRF to 25%, I feel it very stiff compared to my old pedals. Setting BRF to 25% induce a very low range, which makes the trailbraking really hard; I don't how to configure it better, if this is doable. I guess not. I'm worried about it actually
Yes, they fit, but it was a pain in the a** to mount, due to the screws in the front, that you have to slide in to the side. But it worked out eventually. :-)
@@madcaddies01THIS! Currently only have two bolts in the rear securing the pedals due to not being able to easily access the front holes. I don’t know how you did it lol
@@madcaddies01Any tips for mounting? I just got all my gear today with the Playseat Trophy and V2 pedals. I’m assuming I can get all the screws/nuts/washers from a regular hardware store right? Also when I try to line the back of the pedals up it seems like I just can’t get them to match and one side will always be covered
I want to upgrade my settup with these pedals first as I can’t quite afford the DD wheel aswell, I am about to order but do they work on Xbox series x, with a Logitech g920 wheel?
Hi Harry, although these pedals work as a separate USB device on PC, this is not possible on Xbox. The pedals must be connected via a Fanatec wheel base (combined with an Xbox-licensed steering wheel). It is not possible to connect these pedals to a Logitech device.
Yes, removing the clutch pedal is possible. We’ve shown it in the video at 2 minutes. The CSL Elite V2 can be used on Windows PC via RJ12 on all compatible Fanatec Wheel Bases, or as a standalone input device via USB.
Hi Efe, we generally recommend that you update the firmware periodically because many updates contain performance and/or stability fixes. However, if you are not experiencing issues running your Fanatec hardware on PS5, then you don't need to update. But if you wish to update, you need a Windows PC.
@@mauromicheletti9470 439 unfortunately can't 'see' that there are newer versions due to a communication change, so it will forever tell you that you have the latest version. The current driver is 447, it can be downloaded from the front page of the Fanatec website. This will allow you to update your pedals firmware to 1.6.
According to our esports technicians, the majority of the pro esports drivers are using the stiffest combination like you describe (stiffer spring plus three Shore 85 elastomers). But some are using different combinations of the softer options. It really is about personal preference - you should experiment and find the combination that you are comfortable with.
@@misterpacha1 blue spring is softer, cant tell kg wise but you can squeeze by hand vs hardly for the black one which i think its close to 5kg i use black + 3x 65 resulting in 65/70% brake force (can then also be translate to travel) fanalab, when i started 4 month ago i was like 50/55% but im stronger now :p NOTE : im bare foot for sensitivity reason ! shoes can get +10% for me as i remember That choice will also depends how much travel you want but you indeed need to sustain its minimum value to see the max travel capabilities, you will need to manage pullback in any case im not cockpit but still a sturdy setup for pressure, cinema chair (on a basement) on woodplank + pedals fix in it canceling motion with bumpstop on the rear of chair, low 'metal rack' (using on my daily pc so i just move the chair- for wheel its table clamp dd 8nm) if i press more, mean more travel in that case, the cinema chair start to lift up and with me its quite heavy, i would need to engineer smth but brake travel is now spot on for me anyway & i may be now more subject to change for more kg in long terms (so less travel but im not rdy!)
@@wharg7468 wow bro long tip reply. Bro to be honest. I think I'm using the softest setup. I don't like it man. I wonder of the v3 with the performance parts have better brakes for me. Of it can go a little softer it will be better for me. Also a better clutch is needed. What are your thoughts?
@@misterpacha1 indeed longer than initially intented :o but i figured out i had to mention pressure needed for explaination as its linked to feeling aswell and so maybe thats why you dont feel it good (?) i put the black spring to get more initial resistance and return without sacrifice travel When i first get my g923 i was "Dang the brake is way too stiff wtf" , i wasnt ready for it, mentally but setup too lol, worked my way around thats also why i wanted to summarise a bit with setups I dont have a shifter and i came back here because im gonna switch clutch and gaz for refine & control of traction on turns exits = more fun and this should be rly fine :)
My throttle pedal has a very long and soft feel with incredibly low sensitivity. Wayyyy too much pedal travel. Is there a way to adjust this on the ps5 platform? It's obvious that fanatec only cares about pc users but console using customers are people too.
