I've never really been into EQs. But I said screw it and bought an clarion EQ. I've had it about a month, just decided today to try it out ya know before making it final. And holy shit.....world of difference. Basically full tilt no distortion at all. CLEAR AS ALL DAY! I mean my system sounds Good, but that EQ just put the icing on the dam Cake!
back in the day, we'd use the aux input to plug your phone into via rca stereo × 3.5mm jack. A vcr, dvd, etc audio output cables also could be plugged into the aux
I have a Bluetooth receiver in my vehicle instead of a headunit. I am using RCA splitters to run signal to two amps. I'd like to have the EQ for more control but I'd have to shove it under my seat so I didn't have to look at blue lights. That o scope is gonna be my next buy.
That's what I'm gonna do too. My head unit only has 1 RCA output and I'm running an amp to my subwoofer. I want to add a 4 channel amp for my new door speakers. I think I'll need an EQ or DSP.
The one thing none of these many manufacturers of these EQs doesn't do that I wish they did is put a contrasting color on the knobs as an indicator. I have an audio legion version and a skar and use the A.L. one in my truck because it has chrome knobs vs black and I was able to use a sharpie paint marker to fill in the tiny dots they put as indication.
I run an Audiocontrol Three.2 eq that has a 9.5v rms/ 13v peak output and a Fiio BTR5 bluetooth reciever in my set up. I found that there are only 3 or 4 individual designs being used for the budget eq’s. All the different brands use these basic designs and they all have some sq or grounding issue. While all the equalization bands available in the cheap units are attractive, the truth is that they all built to a price and some are poorly assembled. The audio control has gain setting controls, three different input paths, selectable balanced inputs, and is built like a tank. The BTR5’s 11 band equalizer makes up for the Three.2’s limited eq bands.
@@ATCA Two things kept me from using the better options. 1. In my specific Accord it is impossible to install an hu without frankensteining part of the existing hu and wiring harnesses. 2. I’m an old school guy and the whole buying a mike and the learning how to tune the system looked like it would prolong my install. An Audiocontrol dsp with a bluetooth module would have been my best option and cost was not an issue. As it is, my set up has a better bluetooth signal path than most hu’s since only the most expensive ones use the best codecs (Aptx HD, LDAC) that the Fiio and my phones use.
@@2011joseris this a brand new accord you are talking about ? On almost all newer cars that have the center console function built into the stereo you can replace those with aftermarket double din head units but to retain all those functions you will need to purchase something called the idata link maestro rr and your golden! But just make sure the head unit can support all the functions your car has like climate controls, ass warmers what ever it may be it’s some cool stuff 😂
@@onesikm3 it's a 2013 ex-l. the audio and main display are too integrated to separate them and have the main display continue to work. No interface to use an aftermarket h/u was ever made for my specific stereo. The only way to mount a new h/u and not kill the main display is to relocate the existing h/u and keep it connected.
Bought one having so much trouble with it. Subs wouldn't make the pop sound when you turn off the radio now it does . Hard to tune it as soon as I turn it up the sound is so loud and bass as well
Was there gonna be a part two of this? Or are the ratings the same on the auxiliary channel? I would actually be really interested in using this with a Bluetooth adapter or something similar and essentially using my phone as the head unit. For now just use it in my Honda but eventually throw it in my Comanche for a front stage and what ever sub I can fit for the minimal space I have in that lil truck. Oh also have you had a chance to measure the length and depth??
A Commanche!? Thats a rare gem there! I've owned 2 both 1989s and my father just bought a 1990 with 18k original miles and the metric ton package with the dana 44.
@@myronjansen2165 My father and I restored one of the 89s and I bought the other for $240 and drove it home with a busted trans cooler line! Had that mj for a few years and daily drove it for 2 of them.
@@KGrasso89 Nice. It’s one of my dream vehicles. Same year I was born as well. I’ve been watching a lot of 4.0 stroker builds recently. But definitely out of the budget lol. Though I will likely need a rebuild or swap to a better running engine. Since this channel is car audio. My build was gonna be two meso 6.5” subs & a component set or maybe a custom built door panel for bigger speakers. Depends on how much juice I have for audio stuff after I get a winch & other things that’ll be using up some juice from the truck’s electrical.
Would have been nice to know where on the volume setting was the place that it clipped? Around 12 noon, 2 o'clock, etc. Seems like you had to turn it way down before it wasn't clipping.
There’s a lot that goes into clipping. As stated, voltage to amp, voltage on the lines to and from amp etc, high level or low level (RCA) . All of these have to be taken into consideration. Long story short, ALL stereo systems will clip at different points. Check out the different videos on RU-vid that show how to properly check your voltages going to and from the amp(s). They should help you out.
Is a stand-alone EQ still relevant in 2022? What are the added benefits over using the OEM Head Unit eq? Would this be able to remove the need for a LOC?
If you has a super basic head unit , or onky one set of outputs, this will give you all the the necessary channels for a complete setup. It definitely has its place.
@@uttitanfan some radios dont have this manu setting. Also the preout voltage of 5v and 8v is nice. And the built in xover for a sub output is also noce!
Hi, thank you for the review. please confirm me one thing, whenever i turn the volume up, the factory unit reduces bass. also if i use factory unit builtin amplifier to increase bass, whenever the bass hits, al the rest of the song dims down, i dont know what to call it. but whole mid and high range lowers when bass or kick comes in. the only solution i think would work is if i have two amplifiers, one 4 channel for speakers, and one amp for sub. and factoy amp will be flat or even with lower bass, so it damage the whole song, and i can set the gain of sub from the sub amplifier. this way i hope it will work, i havnt applied it yet. researching on this, i came accross this eq. and i am hoping that it takes the factory signal and whatever we set on it will not effect the other frequencies. like whatever the volume, bass knob up, the rest of the song will play at equal level while i'll get increased bass. please confirm this. Its like side chaining in music production when they sidehcain kick or bass the other frequencies ducks down. thanks
I've had one of these installed in my main dash console for about 6 months now. But Ive noticed I get mad interference whenever my phone is within 2 feet of the unit. Any suggestions as to what I can do. Besides just getting a dsp. But I like being able to actually adjust knobs for the frequencies.
@@ATCA at all times I'm pretty sure. Anything with power really. Could be that I'm just tapped into the back of the cigarette lighter socket for power. Then it ties into the wire harness remote and grounded with the head unit on a good ground. Might even run a dedicated ground wire back to the shared ground.
I meant to say that I would run a separate power from that to a kinetik blue 2400 battery I have to wire in still. Instead of just spliced in. Even though it's not pulling much. But I have that eq just for mids and highs. Although the 8volts would be ideal instead of the measly 2 volts from head unit. I'm basically bouncing ideas off myself through the text in this reply lol
So, my head unit has 3 sets of pre-outs but the head unit is only putting out 2 volts through them. Which pre-out from the head unit would i connect to the EQ input? The one that i would otherwise use as the Front pre-outs?
@@ATCA yeah i guess .... There are those who want to save.... Me personally i run SQ so i have to spend good money... I noticed you ran the Dayton audio DSP which is only 150 and is actually a decent DSP but if your gonna want full control , why not just save and get something better
@@bennyblanco14 that Dayton DSP in conjunction with proper equipment and installation/staging will do more for you than spending all that extra $ on a overpriced DSP unit when compared to the Dayton. Another thing nobody seems to think of is thermal regulation as this has the most overall effect on efficiency and overall SQ, especially when playing music for extended periods of time. Heat is your enemy in audio. If you aren’t chasing efficiency when doing an SQ build, you’re doing it wrong.
why does it have two frequency responses, and that's a graphic eq if you can't adjust the cut with at each band range, parametric has 2-3 adjustable values by it's definition. I'm looking for a parametric eq that isn't a controller for a DAW, a 2k rack-mount stage, or a guitar effect petal. Fucking car headunits messing with my search querys for tech I can do on my phone/pc easily, but a PITA to find a line-level option to work with a cd player or the sound system outputs.
Can i use this in my ps4. I have a 3.5 jack headphones and the sound is too crisp(needs a lot of eq) in pc i can use equalizers, but un ps4 ther no software for that, so my idea is to eq the the headphones with this and take that audio to my ps4 through the jack 3.5 of the headphone. Anyone knows if that is possible?
