4,000+ Watts for $400 bucks? CT Sounds 3200.1D Monoblock Torture Tested on the Amp Dyno (Results) 

Hey steve, got a quick question on this amp dyno video. did you catch the amp efficiency for the 1 ohm load. curious on watts in to out on this amp. thanks man!

Hey Steve if you have two pride 12s would you do 1 ct sound amplifier or two?

I just got n to TIK TOK your my second person who i follow 🤟

hi steve question how would you go about using the dd1 if an epicenter is involved

Yo, that CT Sounds amplifier did a great job. Over 1000w more than rated at 1 ohm and it took a beating and was barely warm. I used to look forward to Amp Test Tuesdays every week, and barely any of the amplifiers did 1000w over rated, and survived the .8 ohm tests. Great video Steve!

With build purpose set aside how do you rank the Rockford Fosgate T2500-1bdcp to this amp or vice versa? I'm curious as a T2500-1bdcp owner. Thanks

@@goldeneagle7559 that tired old 2500.1bdcp is a GREAT amp. I don't really care for RF anymore these days. But that amp is still one of my favorites.

Because they ain't lieing to ya 🤣

@@justaaussie Dick-Riculous won’t have any problem with those RMS numbers on this one! 😂

I had the same amp but sent it back because they don't like the cold so I got the 700.1 and I love it killer little amp I have it on 2 vfl 8s

Very happy with my little ct400.1d big thx Big D for posting your review 🙏

What are the mistakes he did?

Yea it bumps fo sho

Yes more than bumps and I have just 1 12 inch Walmart power acoustic gothic hooked up and bass / sub knob on amp all the way down! And my receiver negative 4 shit Walmart sub put in work for real and not even wanted to try turn up Ct sounds amp 3,200 best purchase for real $180.00 yesterday drove 90 miles for it

You still do for some of the high end stuff. There are corners cut to get this kind of performance for these prices.

I love my DD-1, been using it since 2016 and I am going to get the DD-1+ pretty soon so I can easily set my overlaps.

Same lol. I have the amp he tested Get a black marker and color over the lil bulb 👍👍

Facts boiii

Neither does the quality. I bought my wife a Strato 8, not even a Meso 8, it shits all over the ZVX-8 I had.

The Skar RP-3500.1D is pretty close in numbers. Probably based off of the same design as well although there are a few differences internally.

If I remember correctly, Steve has tested a few in the past, and they always do rated or better.

My 8" d2s have almost the same basket as the sundown v2 8s. Living at 1500 rms in a really bad pine box I am impressed by them for the cost. They make decent budget minded subs imo. if your looking for something to rock your world however theres plenty of better options however

Why didn't you just turn the volume down a click or two??

​​@@bailey2517Because it would still be clipping. Clipping has nothing to do with the volume and the gain knob is not a volume knob.

@@dayjeremy I know, but if you turn the volume down enough it will stop clipping. I was just saying there's no need to adjust the gains if he can just turn downt he head unit. Unless he wants to gain match, which I'm doubting he knows how to do..

​@@bailey2517oh just turn the gain down a bit

12.8-12v is not "Simulate in a car, real world, no upgrades". When the vehicle is running it should be between 14.xx-15v. That isn't an "upgrade" that is a normal vehicle. I have never really cared about 12v numbers because that means your car is OFF. Makes no sense.

@@meade916 Understood what you are saying, but when running your system without the proper current and voltage, will cause a dip into the 12.8-12v range on heavy operation. That's what I'm speaking of. You have a solid power source @14.4-15.2v and higher if you want, but most getting into the hobby don't in their car and would drop low into the 12v range. So to showing them the results of the mentioned, would show why an amp with the same power cost different from others. On your free time, or a donation I'm willing to offer, try the test of say a Sound Digital, and the CT Sounds amp with the same ratings, or what you may have, doesn't matter, and run the test the same way at 1 ohm, but let it run like its a car. 14.4v one good battery certified. Got me brotha?

@@mikehonda7934 these tests show what the amp is capable of if you have solid electrical in your ride. If you don't, than clearly you can't expect rated results. Pretty simple. Music is dynamic though that is why the Dynamic RMS test is so important. As for "testing it like its a car", the AD-1 was developed for that purpose. To bring it (the AD-1) out the vehicle and see how YOUR amps are performing in YOUR car with YOUR electrical situation. I put them on the bench because it is fun to test this way and it shows that if you actually install your system properly, you can get the rated power stated on the box. It isn't the manufacturer's fault that people run 10k watts on a stock alt and battery and are upset it don't put out 10k LOL.

@@meade916 I feel you. I get what you mean being a long time audio head myself. For me, I have an issue explain this same thing you mentioned to me to others without video or having my AMM-1 with me. Most don't understand that the test are done with solid power, and they don't get that you lose power when you don't have a solid electrical. (a 1000 watt amp doing 1200-1500w at 14v but 800-1000w when voltage drops to 12-12.8v in some cases.) Some amps will still do their power even with horrible electrical, like my Subaru has. ( Sundown Salt amps example low voltage amps. ) I went with the (2) JL slash 1200/1 amps on my 13.5w7 custom built by myself, being Subaru alternator upgrades weren't available in 2015 when I built my car, just to have a solid 2000-2400w power across a 14.4-12.4v stable.(although I don't really drop below 12.8v unless I'm banging hard for about an hour without a break. So I had to sacrifice not having space for the required batteries to compensate by rolling with technology over tons of power I can't use and hurt my car. I understand your angle though. I'll keep enjoying the content. Fun having the available power on tap if you want it there though.

you might be referring to the SALT amps they have which specifically are for low voltage(not sure why) otherwise your question is dumb, just upgrade electrical and don't bump your system off, unless you wanna listen in your garage door closed to not disturb neighbors or whatever, but even then garage doors are thin. With a 4k watt amp, upgrade your electrical and then don't comment, that's why Steve meade stopped replying, b/c you don't get it. With Steve Meade you are lucky to get about 3 or 4 "yeah but..." and then you are done. Do your own research ffs.

you are welcome! thanks for the comment! :)

Rest in paradise 🙏

@Robert Davidson 😆 thanks for correcting that. That would put it at 4k for the amp 😆. I just got carried away and just went to typing. If I could just come up with the space for subs in my SUV, I will have to order me one of those amps for sure.

@Robert Davidson I have been looking at another amp for some time now. Just not sure if I have the room to fit all the subs required for the amp. When i buy a amp I adjust it with my DD-1 and send it full blast. Looks like i will have to lose my 3rd row seat and make room for either the amp I have been looking for or this one here.

the DD-1 is still better. For setting gains AND gain matching. The DD-1 Can see what your scope can't see. If you want to do it the hard way, the less accurate way, that is on you. Also, being an "industrial master electrician" has nothing to do with 12v car audio electronics. Sounds like a cool title though.

please make a video demonstrating how you set your gains with your 4 channel scope. I would love to see your procedure. Lets see your system and your your DSP install. You talk super technical there is no way you don't have a badass system (even if its not big) to show us.

@@meade916 I love your channel man let me just say that I got mad respect for you quality of your workmanship It is incredible!!! I did leave a couple of things out when I wrote that on my way to work this morning LOL. before I became an electrician I was in the 12 volt DC world for 12 years in several shops im originally from Ventura CA and now in Buffalo ny. On the industrial side of things I still work with a lot of low voltage 12 and 24 volt ac/dc Energy Management Systems. I will definitely make a video of the oscilloscope as for the dd1 that is an awesome tool not saying anything bad about it at all it is incredibly user-friendly & eventually I would like to get one just to play around with it as for my personal system I have a couple but my main vehicle at the moment has Audio Dynamics 3,000 and 4,000 series components fully active running through their DSP and 6 Channel as for my base side of things I have a full Orion hcca splx system it was Tim Johnson's it's a third of it so it's 2 15s and two of his splx 5Ks which I needed to gain match and face match to get them right on top of each other and working together because I do not want to use them in a Master Slave application I also have a pair of 18 in deaf bonce dbsa418d1s and 2 Orion hcca 17000.1 D splx amplifiers that I was going to use one for each woofer as for my alternator I'm using a 390 Brand X on 340 amp hour of Yinglong

@@justforlaughs8988 well it does sound like you got some cool stuff! I am not being sarcastic when i say i want to see it. If you get a chance let's see a walk around :) thanks man!

@@meade916 I'll definitely have to load up some new videos the only stuff I have on my channel is all old from years ago but thank you man that means alot I've looked up to you sense way way back in the early days 👍 one of my favorite videos was of that Franken woofer with the MA audio hard kore series motor on a 12inch basket and you sent that sucker!

seems like a good thing. Especially the cert/uncert....

@@meade916 Can you explain why it's a good thing? BEcause i'm wondering the same thing. I had a ct sounds amp and it clipped at the same point no matter how peaky it was it would always clip at the same exact point, meanwhile skar amps for example, they can take a lot more power for a short burst without clipping but idk if thats actually a good thing(?). It seems like that might mean the skar amps are lower quality. But i'm not sure, what are your thoughts?

Absolutely the same quality as a jl audio!! These kappa 12s in a center slot box, 40 hrtz , beat the guts out of my toyota trunk 3,000 watts 2 ohm stable boss amp amazon special. The CT sounds stuff is so worth the price... they can take it

He doesn’t care lol

Ive had a ct amp for a while now and its always bumped hard

@@thedude7726 ct seems to be decent from what I've seen. I was just curious to some of these off brand ones like big d tests on his channel too.

depends on how you treat it.

That is a very good question! I try and think about what really makes amps fail. Poor electrical, ventilation/ overheating, over driving. Running the amp below recommended impedance.

It's not that strong like they rate it. It has dam good sound quality tho

DDM4

For the money this is a good buy but I would recommend a backup battery /bank

what this guy said, a backup battery does wonders, even just a smaller one, make sure it is at least agm@@vocalone23