Normally the pump intake should be connected directly to the reservoir, with the filter on the return line. That way should the filter start to plug the pump won't be starved.
i'm still impressed at what the harbor freight press will do with that swag offroad finger break, can't wait to see the 3 point done, should work pretty sweet like your other projects👍👍
Great work Frank. I've been binge-watching the bush hog project this weekend. Getting caught up with this project. Always an inspiration watching you work!
If you get a hydraulic valve that has a float position that will let you have the 3 point float. If you can figure a way to have a wider opening than the angle iron on the press it will help when bending thicker material. The bend wont be quite as sharp, but you will be able to bend easier. In effect, you will have a longer lever. I use 2 pieces of steel that are 1 1/2" by 2 1/2". They have a 3/4" hole in each end that I put a long bolt through to keep them from spreading and then use a piece of 1/2" X 4" steel welded into a T shape for the finger. Varying the length of the bolts will give a sharper bend for thinner material of allow a more rounded bend for thicker material. Thanks for the video. Looking forward to the bush hog build
Frank, try placing the metal to be bent directly under the center of the press. Go back and watch when you were pressing, the left side of the press was lower than the right side. This was causing the press brake to be in a bind on the upright rods holding things in alignment. Just Say'n.
Would that tank fit where the battery is going to be located ? Maybe relocated the battery to the front ? I was just thinking there would be less hyd hose chaos and shorter hoses . Good stuff as always .
Seems like a great location but remember that the pump is in front of the engine so hydraulic hoses have to run front to back any how. I do think in front of the engine would be a great battery location and it would eliminate the outboard location for the hydraulic tank if it can fit under the seat.
Not enough room under the seat for the tank and the filter. While the outboard location seems unconventional (like a add-on) it's not so "outboard" when the spool valves are mounted. Plus makes servicing easy. I think it will look OK when it's all said and done. I'll add a sheet metal heat shield around the tank and it'll be painted to match the tractor.
Hi Frank, As usual, I love to watch your content with all of the cool tools. You make it really look like fun, I don’t have half the tools but have fun nonetheless. Anyway, I’m not sure exactly how you plan to tie in the top link(s) but I can tell you if the top link(s) and lift arms are different lengths you may (probably will) experience some cantilevering as you lift a load. I’ve experienced that trying to convert a Farmall/IH fast hitch to a cat 1 three point, very inconvenient.
I really like your projects! Could you slip a few minutes into a future video about how you choose the components for your hydraulics? I would like to add some hydraulic cylinders to some of my projects, but am hesitant. There seems to be a lot of (expensive) choices to make between the pumps and valves and cylinders.
I'm curious why Cat1 as opposed to Cat0. Seems more appropriate for that size machine. I believe that the OEM three-point was CAT0 as was the commercial one I put on my 149 last year. All of the Sears/Roper tractors were CAT0. Not a criticism here. Wondering about the engineering think here.
Pto speed is a major factor... cat 1 is 540rpm cat 0 is 2000rpm also 3point arm width, attachment availability for that category, arm pin diameters for a few examples of why cat 1/ cat 1 modified are the prevalent 3point for under 45 drawbar hp
