Watching you, & listening to you, think out loud is so refreshing, nothing phony. I'm a guy much like yourself as far as thinking up things to build, just don't have as many shop toys to play with. Built a miniature concrete mixer truck from scratch with miscellaneous lawn tractor parts just because I could. It is functional & was quite a hit at a local tractor show. Always wanted to build what you are putting together now, but restored an old Struck mini dozer instead! Saw your grader build & know this will be just as successful.
The size and weight of the sproket has given this project a very substantial attitude bringing it from a scaled down D10 to a fully functional big league machine. A boys dream, I am imprssed! What a role model experience, Hopefully it avail itself to some youth and inspire creativity and dreams. God knows they need more of it!
Design changes, not mistakes. I'm really enjoying your build video's. So glad I stumbled upon your channel. Great work and looking forward to your future videos.
Frank, thanks for the information on the spiroll pins. I used a bolt on my machine, but haven't operated it as it a work in progress. I actually have a sliding two piece driveshaft on mine, and will likely use a 12v fan to coll the hydro.
Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing the tracks being built. I wish I had those tools to help me build my Live Steam ALCO S4 Locomotive project or you were my Friend & neighbor :-) Glad you finally received the plasma cutter, you can cut out the wheel mounting stud holes on the chain sprocket with it if you wanted to but not sure if it would be better than a milling machine. The 4 things I need the most is a 1). Good welder, 2). Plasma table 3). Milling machine 4). Metal lathe. Take care and GOD Bless...
very cool project. I took two 1650 cubs and made a dual axle dump bed. years ago. love the cubs, I still have my 1980 IH 582 and 1967 129. both still grass killers. and the 582 has a 10'' plow. tiller and a push blade attachments. at one time I almost had one of every model cub in the narrow frames. I have a big plasma table. love every square foot of it.
I built a tandem with a dump bed. There is a video on the channel featuring it. I have a 1650 with a QA42 snow thrower on it. It's a beast and one of my favorites.
My thought on the chain it looks big enough but I would weld inner link, not outer link, to the grouser pad, so you can still get your removable link out if you ever need to remove the tracks
I'll look at that. Might be better to do that, but inner link access is limited. It could be that the entire track pad/link are used as a connector. Or perhaps I fab a different connecting link that works differently. We'll see, but that's a great suggestion. Thanks!
Great progress on the mini dozer. Let’s see some more of your four legged shop helpers. My shepherds always come to check on me when I’m working in the garage
They are included at least momentarily in most of my videos. They are always checking out my activities. However, they bail out when I turn on the welder and they don't like the air compressor noise. Maybe I can do a few more minutes with them in an upcoming video. EP 11 is already complete, so it might be a few weeks out...
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 My girls love the compressed air. I blow their coats out and then it looks like it’s snowing dog hair in my yard. Plus they always bring me toys and ask me to play with them at the most opportune times.
I understand the power is very limited, but the design objective is to keep it as "Vintage Cub Cadet" as possible, and that objective takes precedence over it's ability to move dirt. I'm not expecting it to build any roads or clear land. The fun is in the build--it's just a toy!
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 i built a dozer from a 74 Case 444 garden tractor using the K321 original engine and it had plenty of power, i used the same 61X chain and sprokects, the only real issue i had was the grousers i made for the track were a little to high, it dug into the ground and made turning a little hard, it is turning out very nice on your build, i have photos of mine i can email you.
Good point. In (upcoming) episode 12 I have some pads cut out on the plasma table, but I cut them too close, realized that and commented that there needs to be some space. I've been trying to figure out how to overlap them but I'd need to send them to a shop with a big brake. If I were to create an offset along one edge (for the overlap), it would stiffen the pad quite a bit, perhaps eliminating the need for grousers or thicker steel for the pads. I could get by with 3/16 or certainly, 1/4 inch. I'll have to check with the local metal fabricator and see what it would cost. Thanks for the observation!
This build series is amazing iv had an idea in my head like this for years working in or around the oil field seeing sprockets and chains like this always had my mind working and turning it’s like you’ve picked my brain could we get a part number on the chain and sprocket?? Thank you good day
if you didn't already cut the center out of the Sprocket yet a easier way to join it might be to use the hub they sent with the Sprocket and make a shaft type adapter that bolts to the axle hub . easy and lightweight, just a thought
Great videos, thanks for sharing! Was wondering if you are going to use a bearing and trusses to support the axel extensions from the axel or frame? Are you worried about the torsion forces on the drive sprocket with the extended shaft outing any side load on the original axel bearings/bushing?
The axles are pretty robust and the loads on the sprockets won't include the weight of the dozer, just the drive forces. I am considering a couple different ways to reduce or eliminate the moment arm (cantilever) over-stressing the axle. Or, relegate the dozer to light duty and not worry about it since it's only 14 hp anyway.
Can you share the Chain size and sprocket number your build is very impressive I like the fact you are using all cub cadet components I am interested in doing a case version keep up the great work Looking forward to the next video
I was confused about your comment about engine orientation thinking to myself that you just need to install the engine with the same orientation that the 149 had. Then I looked at a picture and realized to factory orientation had the flywheel facing the rear axle. 😳 Not sure why I assumed the flywheel faced the front.
Yeah the flywheel connector has the drive shaft to the hydro, it only takes about 4-5hp to drive that at full load. The clutch is on the other end for the implement which will take all the power its got.
I'm glad you said this, I was thinking the same thing. All he needs is the bolt pattern to make an adapter and enough room between them to put bolts into each housing. Pulleys or chain to tie it all to a center drive shaft.
Hey I had an idea on making it easier to remove those set screws. The threads get corroded/rusty over time. Before trying to loosen or remove screws. Run a bottom tap down the hole to clean up threads. The screws should come out much easier. But you probably know that lol
I worked in a potato field. We used a thing called Anti-Seize on the set screws and bearings. It sets them. And when need them off, it comes right off. Sometimes when people don't use Anti-Seize, you have to use a torch to get off the bearing.
Nuclear Engineer but spent most of my career in IT. Lifelong hobbyist woodworker and DIY'er, just recently got into metal working. Thanks for following along!
When do you find time to use all of those fishing rods?!…Was diesel power something you ever considered?…Jonathan W built a mini dozer for his grandson a few years ago. Did you see it? This project looks fun. I binge watched this project from the start, subscribed , and can’t wait for the next episode!
If you use conveyor pulley belts - or called link-belt - they can be split and installed and then re-joined. They are power belts and joints can be replaced or shortened if warn in.
I’m a little worried about those sprockets slipping, the depth of the gullet and the taper going so deep into the gullet. I have seen quite a few loader and dozer drive sprockets over the years and they just don’t look quite right to me. Hope I’m wrong and I’m really enjoying watching the build. Keep up the good work!!
love the dozer build i am wanting to put tracks on mt ride on mower so can you send me more info on red bull chain and sprockets as that will be perfict for me but unable to find info on net as i would like to ring them i live in Australia and things cost the earth here also the small wheels that you were short delivered thanks in advance Jeff again love your work
Red Boar Chain and Fastener redboarchain.com/collections/frontpage/products/81xh-heavy-conveyor-mill-chain-10ft-roll redboarchain.com/collections/sprockets/2-609-pitch?grid_list=grid-view thecasterguy.com/product/4-x-2-cast-iron-wheel-15242/
Sounds like red loctite was used. I've found it helpful to use carb cleaner 1st. That softens the loctite then your or oil will be more affective. Just my experience.
Usually heat is required to loosen red locktite, a propane torch applied to the fastener for a minute or two should loosen it. Of course, the more red locktite used, more heat is required.
When you make your track pads you will want a decent gap between them or you have to make them overlapping. The wooden track you made, as the chain rolls off the sprocket back to flat the gaps close up and it could pinch a stone etc between the pads and it will either stop or tear the tracks up.
Great point! I realize that in (upcoming) episode 12 when I cut out a few pads and mock up some track. I'd like to do an overlap to stiffen up the pads and allow use of thinner metal but I need to find a fab shop with a big enough brake to bend the offsets. Thanks for the observation and for following the progress!
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 you possibly could lap and weld strips. Time consuming. But I guess that’s what makes a tracked hobby and that’s why real tracks are expensive.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 and some sort of low profile grouser on the face of your plates to aid traction rather than rely on weight and flat. Just a strip or two of round bar welded on each pad face would work.
Narrow track width would not only be precarious, but impossible to turn, there is an ideal width to length ratio for tracked machines, you might want to look it up.
I watched another Dozer build a very fancy one and he had a small gasoline engine that he built it around. He started it and went out to push some dirt around and it was VERY underpowered. He ended up replacing it with a much larger diesel engine . He had to cut much of his original design apart to fit it in but in the end it was a great build. Just giving you a heads up that it seems you are headed down that road of not enough power. here is a link to that video. The first test is almost exactly half way through the video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i_b8opPXKVo.html
Episode 9 was mid-Sept 2021. If you want to see it complete, you'll either have to stick around and watch it happen or come back in a few months. Prefer you stick around and share your thoughts along the way!
Two transmissions provides independent forward and reverse track control on both sides--allowing you to spin in place, for example. Can't do that with steering brakes.
Frank, considering this unit is being powered by an engine originally intended for a machine weighing in around 400 lbs to 500 lbs, have you given any consideration to the weight to horsepower ratio for the dozer versus the mower configuration?? Your build could end up weighing so much more than 500 lbs that it could be substantially under-powered just to move let alone actually push some dirt. I own and operate a Caterpillar D3G bulldozer that is rated at 70 / 77 hp (net / gross) and weighs 16225 lbs for a weight to hp ratio of 231 lbs / hp (net) or 211 lbs / hp (gross). Since machine performance is heavily influenced by drive gearing and drive ratios, I am not sure you can reasonably scale down this ratio to apply to your mini-dozer, but I do recommend you keep an eye and a thought or two on how heavy this machine is at the end in conjunction with your available horsepower. Where did you land up with the motor-grader in this category (do you know how much it weighs?)? I am new to your channel and have enjoyed the dozer project. Cheers from southeast Georgia!!
Many Cub Cadets weighing 800 lb had as little as 10hp engines. They ran out of traction before they ran out of power. The motor grader weighs 2000 lb +/-. It has 12 hp. This dozer will be 14 hp and will weigh about the same. I don't have any expectations of road building or land clearing with this. No question it's under powered to do any serious work, as you and many others have opined. It's more about the build than trying to have a "real" bulldozer. Glad you are enjoying the videos and welcome!
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 Thanks for the response Frank. Understanding the most likely intended objective and purpose of the machine I just wanted to make sure you had enough horsepower to; as a minimum, enable the machine to move under its own power which myself and all others assuredly are looking forward to seeing!! My brother and I are curious about what you do / did for a living and where / how did you acquire so much knowledge on the Cub Cadet products. Cheers again from the land of cotton and peanuts!!
I'm a retired nuclear engineer. Was going to use a little flux capacitor for power but ran into a lot of regulatory red tape...LOL. Spent much of my career as an IT executive. I've been playing with Cub Cadets for 10 or 15 years.
Are you concerned at all about the ground clearance under the diff As the track pads directly on the chain wont add any height ti the diameter of the sprocket.
Yes. The row of bogies will have to provide some clearance so they will be below the sprockets, something like a tank's tracks--so that is another compromise in this design. But you bring up a good point, spacing the track away from the sprocket could help as well. Hmm...got me thinking now. I look at a track mockup on the sprocket on the axle in EP #12. Just finished editing that episode today.
I just uploaded one the other day. Will probably publish it early next week. Here's a link if you want to look at it in advance. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DJRSTcKY084.html
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 Maybe drill and tap 2 holes in the chain link on each side to attach the pad to the chain. I don’t think the link steel is too hard to drill. (Maybe 🤷♂️)😁
How are you going to tension a tracks with the axles non-movable? I would've just gotten like a small skid steer hydrostatic system and then the orbit motors it would've been easier to build it that way using the design that you have in your pictures then what you're doing. Besides the fact of being able tension the tracks. Because with a system like that you could use a charge pump pressure to pressurize single acting cylinders to tension the tracks
You could have did it with one rear axle that had disc brakes convert them to hydraulic disc brakes and you wouldn't need the front axle because the front axle should pivot left to right
You may be right about the power, but I don't have expectations of clearing land or building roads. It's mostly a toy. As for the two speed rear, the hydros are infinitely variable speed, and with 12 inch sprockets (instead of 23 inch tires) it's already in "low range." Probably max out at 4 mph.
Engines spark when the points close not when they open. Set the point at .015 at TDC and it will stark at the S on the flywheel. You could put the fuel tank on the hood with the fill spout sticking out. That way you won't need to open the hood to fuel it.
Nope. The opening points cause the magnetic field in the primary coil to collapse, inducing a high voltage in the secondary winding, causing the spark.
Why didn't you control it like a real bulldozer? Open diff, right and left hand brake? That would have solved and simplified all of your driveline problems.
Real bulldozers (at least the current versions) use a pair of hydraulic motors, one per side. So the left and right tracks can be controlled independently. With an open diff and brakes, you can't run one side in reverse and the other in forward to spin in place.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 @Wood and Metal Shop Time yes, your correct, you can't. That's how real bulldozers work, and have worked since their inception. They can not pivot on the spot. If you wish to go in reverse, you have to put it in reverse gear, and then again run the brakes. Some of the latest big dozers run hydraulic drives. But for the last 100 years they have not....same goes for tanks fyi
I thought all skid steers, and every current excavator I've looked at have independent hydraulic motors on each track. I understand some of the old equipment didn't. Have no idea about tanks. Trade offs with each design I guess.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 skid steers and excavators do have duel hydraulic drives. Bulldozers traditionally do not. It makes it a really dozy to jump back and forth between them. Having hydraulic drives is much nicer, and more intuitive to operate as you can turn on the spot. A dozer can usually only lock up one track and swivel around that. Plus the hassel of having to shift from fwd to rev, and then the brakes turn you the opposite direction.
