Cub Cadet ZTXS4 54 Zero Turn Tractor/Lawn Mower (with steering wheel) 2023 Model 

Glad to help out.

Thank you for watching and commenting.

I learned that lesson right away. If it is high grass I start out with blades high, then come back lower. Takes a lot longer, but better results. All of my property is sloped, so I stay away from wet grass... tears the yard up pretty good.

@@RoCDIY Mulching, high grass or wet grass, isn’t the end of the world. I just know that afterwards, I’ll have to put on my backpack blower and blow it off and then it looks fine. There is no way I would rake it.

Thanks for watching and asking your question. The seat cushion itself offers some comfort. but not much. There are some plastic wedges under the seat plate that are supposed to offer cushioning, but again they don't offer much. I have a bad back and a bumpy & sloped yard, so I would say you probably need a suspension seat upgrade. This mower isn't as bad as my Husqvarna, but they have both taken a toll on my back. Let me know what you do with your suspension seat upgrade if that is what you decide to do.

24hp works good for me and I have a tough 2 acres to cut. I don't know that 2hp is going to make any noticeable difference except in your wallet. 24 and 26hp is going to feel exactly the same. Slope isn't an issue whether it is 24 or 26hp. If you are going to be cutting other yards with heavily overgrown grass and other plants, then maybe 26hp would be good. If you are cutting your same yard over and over again, then my choice would be 24hp and lower price. My opinion.

I don't know, but it is really weird timing that you brought this up as I am experiencing what you are asking about. I used my mower yesterday and it was running like crap. Mine feels like it is going to launch me sometimes and other times it feels like it's about to completely die when I engage the PTO. I had a burning smell and smoke, but it stopped before I could inspect/find it. Pretty sure this all related to PTO.

I responded a while back and just realized it doesn't show my response. Did you end up getting this mower, a different one, or hold off? Mine had a hydro trans issue, but it was fixed quickly.

Thanks for watching and your question. I can only compare it to my Husqvarna YTH22V46 riding mower which is very different than this one. Pros- It has plenty of power to go up/down and across slopes. You can feel the power. Tires have good wet/dry traction You can purchase a 3 bin bagger attachment Great maneuverability. Easy to turn to get a spot you miss The adjustable ROPS is great if you need to adjust it for storage or trees If you know where your high spots/bad spots are in your lawn it's great that you can quickly lift and drop the deck in those areas. Cons- If you have a dry lawn with bald spots this mower will dust you out You can purchase a 3 bin bagger attachment which makes it even bigger 3 bin bagger is expensive. $700.00 I am used to sitting toward the back wheels on my Husq. This one feels like you are sitting out in front of it. Still not used to it. I bought this mower specifically because of the slope of my lawn and to go across rather than up and down the lawn. If you are going across, change the direction you go because the seat belt will eat your hips up if you stay going one direction. The so-called headlights are more like marker lights, so don't count on them for mowing at dusk or night Difficult to clean under deck Advice: Don't go with a wider mower deck just because you can afford it. Makes sense if you have wide open lawn. If you have trees or close trees you will find it hard to maneuver between trees. ROPS may cause some issues as well.

@@RoCDIY thank you for this reply.

@@jesuschristfirst5775 did you end up getting it? If so, what are your pros and cons, as i am about to order a 48 too.

@@dwaynemorris3079 I did. I've got almost 40 hrs on it so far, and can't think of any cons.

@@jesuschristfirst5775 Ty

I honestly don't think it is worth $8k, but as you probably know, I think we are in a period of time where everything is outrageously priced and prices will not go down. You could say that a 316 in 1986 is comparable in price (if you paid around $4k). This does have 24hp compared to the 16hp on your 316 and you will feel it. You will feel this mowers power, especially with 24hp and 3 blades. I do think it is a very rugged and well built machine. However, I don't think the QA/QC is there like it used to be. If you decide to buy it, look it over really good. Make sure nothing is missing. Use the heck out of it when you first get it. If anything is going to go wrong, it's going to go wrong from using it. My dealership was very quick to fix the two issues I had with mine. Take in to account your yard size, obstacles, and slope. You may want a 54 or 60 if you have open land. If you have a lot of bunched trees, go with a narrower deck. Whether you have sloped ground or not you can use either a steering wheel version or the lap bars, but definitely get the steering wheel version if you have sloped ground. You will have little to no control of the mower on sloped ground with lap bars. The steering wheel gives you control over the front wheels. Lap bars don't control the front wheels. Also, take in to account whether you can get it to a repair shop or not. A warranty doesn't cover moving it to and from a repair shop. Maintenance can be a whole lot more expensive. You can definitely save money doing it yourself. I don't know your thoughts on OEM vs. non-OEM parts, but there are some things you only use OEM on and some you don't. Once you're out of warranty (don't use non-OEM while under warranty) you will find many aftermarket parts that are just as good as OEM. Lastly, always look for deals. Cub Cadet doesn't do a lot of advertising of deals My dealership mentioned nothing about deals until I asked. Also, see my response to @jesuschristfirst5775 below for more info. I hope the information I provided is helpful. I always appreciate feedback. Thanks for watching and asking questions.

@@RoCDIY Thank you very much for your insight and advice on the ZTXS54, it is highly appreciated!

@@davesaccount9831 Not a problem

If you had properly corrected me I wouldn't have an issue. What you called "ropes" is actually an abbreviation for ROPS, which is short for Roll Over Protection System. ROPS is commonly pronounced "ropes or rops" Also, the manual doesn't mention "roll bars" once, but it does mention ROPS numerous times. Yes, ROPS and roll bars are the same thing.

Sorry to correct you, but it’s “they’re” not there….