Great video! I've learned a lot from you and can't tell you how giddy it made me to watch you discuss and use my plugin. I'm glad you found it useful. Thank you!
I got an Ender 2 pro after watching a lot of your Ender 2 videos and I am so happy with it. The print quality is amazing, it fits 95% of the things I want to print. It is a brilliant second printer to get. Great video as always mate 👍🇦🇺😊
Openscad is free - and a rabbit hole in itself. Might be good to do an episode on it and show off some of the Uber cool customisable things you can print from thingiverse.
Your results are in line with what I came up with. My ideal temp for ABS (Hatchbox white filament) is 232 C on my Ender 3v2. Glad you decided to do a video on ABS. I love the stuff because it is easy to post-process (sandability, fuse with with acetone). Also not as brittle as PLA and withstands higher temperatures without melting/warping. Hope to see more on your ABS profile.
I have been printing with ABS since the 1st day I got my 1st 3D printer and I have been struggling a lot to get a really good quality print. After some time experimenting, 235C hot end temp is the best. For the curling issue, I've been using binder glue which is far better glue than anything to print with ABS. With all this experience, I've been printing flawless ABS prints to date.
@@UnCoolDad I haven't had any problems with that so far. If you're having problems with it, changing to a Capricorn Bowden tube will solve it because they don't deteriorate and can withstand more heat
Thanks Chep. When I changed from the free PLA that came with the printer to the Sunlu PLA+ I did a pre made gcode test tower for my stock Ender 3 Pro with the Marlin 2 firmware. It works best for me at 230C standard 190C kept failing. If I change again I will print another tower. Best wishes.
Hey CHEP, I print ABS for around the same time as I begun following your channel, 2019, the most important thing for ABS is not so much the enclosure temperature (unless you have an oven-printer that can sustain constant temperatures around 100c) but to avoid drafts of different temperature air, placing the printer in an enclosure, a cupboard or simply covering it with a cardboard box, will make all the difference. Also, you should increase your bed to 90c and turn on your part cooling fan to 60% at 'Regular Fan Speed at Layer = 5'. Lastly, make sure your filament is bone dry, red pigment is one of the worst for absorbing moisture.
Awesome this is really great! I followed one of your older videos with the temp tower but the layers where all different heights and it just wasn't going to work for me. But this one works. I looked at the gcode and the preview in Cura and the heights matched and were all consistent. Thanks Chep.
Tip to using one of those Creality enclosures. Before printing ABS I pre heat the bed at my desired temp for 30 min before starting a print. By the time you go to start a print the enclosure is much warmer than the ambient air outside it.
once you're done with your test tower, don't forget to deactivate the plugin (click on the big "A" button next to the "slice" button on Cura), or it will mess up your next print temperatures ! I learn it the hard way, lol !
I need to try out the tower thing now thanks, I love your profiles I only use those I did have to change the temp a little for my PLA that I use but other than that they work awesome.
Found this today before seeing you did a video. Very cool that no scripting is required for most of them, super easy. My temp tower was suspiciously good but I was monitoring it so I know the temp was changing per the model. No stringing either from 4-9 on the retract tower (Ender 3 Max). I think this red Monoprice premium PLA is just generally very well behaved.
About using gluestick on the bed, try this: after directly applying the gluestick, use a damp cloth to gently wipe the bed. Do it right and it'll smooth out the glue to get a nicer bottom surface. You don't need globs of gluestick on the bed! But for ABS I would use a soup made from waste ABS and some acetone, painted onto the surface. All on glass.
Your enclosure is probably too big. The air gap above the printer probably takes too long to heat. That's been my experience with enclosures. Also of note with ABS is print surface. I have problems with flexible build plates allowing the corners to peal up the build surface even if you get good adhesion. I print on PEI stuck on top of glass for my abs prints for best results. Most of my repeat print programs have mickey mouse ears in the corners as well.
No OpenSCAD?! What?! You can use it to modify models without scripting (coding) anything. The Gridfinity organization system is a good example. I can open the model, change the size of a box and other features, then export as .stl. EasyPeasy.
I just did this for my Ender 5 Pro with PLA. I noticed that the '3 layers above' that you mention coincides with the temp drop for the next section. I suppose it takes at least 3 layers to reduce the temp of the hot end. I'm no pro...just an observation. Thanks for the video though...I've been needing this in my life.
Hi Chep. I've been using the Filament Friday Extra Fast Cura Profiles for Cura5.1. Thanks a lot. Could you teach us how to use or update those profiles in the new versions of Cura that are coming out?. Thank you again.
When making a retraction tower you pick the range you want to test, but no temps or speeds. When you print the tower and it comes out perfect on every setting, which do you choose if you didn't have to enter the speeds or temps? I chose a range of 4-9 and got a pretty perfect tower off the bed. 🤔🤔
The bridge between the sides of the tower looks horrible. No adhesion and it looks as if the printer in printing in thin air. The sides look great. Any ideas?
Liked and subbed!! Im pretty new to printing. Im using that extension to try to print a flow tower, but it looks like the flow doesn't change all the way up. But if i print a single line wall on a cube i can get it to be thicker or thinner etc... why would my tower just stay the same? Ill save the file like you did and check if its changing in the code
I recently bought 2 Ender 2 pros. The specs say the build volume is: 165 x 165 x 180 mm. The cords going to the hotend will only allow mine to reach about 125mm on both machines. Curious to know if you had a similar experience with yours?
I want to say I like your videos, but I have had little success with your profiles. I have the exact same printer, and my prints fails most of the time when using them, but work fine with the generic ender 3 profile. Not sure why? Could be the filament I am using. Do you always use the same brand filament when testing your profiles? Or it could be just me, or where I live(temps etc).
I had the opposite effect for my printer lol. I couldnt tweak default profiles or custom ones to get mine to run right. I put his profile in, adjusted flow and temps, and then it solved all of my problems.
Thanks for your video mate. Just one question! I used Cura built-in generating temp tower recently and checked its preview to see where are the adjustments of temp at each layer. However while it was printing, the printer’s display(CR-10 V3) didn’t show any changes to temp at any stages! Is that how it’s supposed to be for not showing any change of current temp but it’s actually changing/lowering it when it’s printing?
Depending on the plugin version you have installed, you may need to select the "Enable LCD Messages" option in the plugin's settings menu. Some printers don't handle the M117 gcode command used to send messages to the LCD.
Pls make a video one cre xz conversation on ender 3 without any othere extera parts, just with parts that comes with printer only belts u can buy, that wold be Awasom video🔥😍💕👍
Late answer for you so I don't know if it will help, but if you want the upper 10C just have it start at 260 instead of 250 while doing the rest the same. You can just remember the temp difference when looking at results.
Hey Chuck, one question, offtopic: I use your profiles (PLA & PETG) for a few weeks now and they are very handy, I love them. But I have a question: Why are you using combining mode? I think it is not very useful for default and want to hear your idea bind this. Thanks!
