In the last test, it goes to a very small point, so there is less time for extrusion, retraction, and wiping as you go up to the peak. The previous test was the same thickness from top to bottom. You'll see that lower on the last cones, the print is pretty clean. With some filaments and enough time spent, you may be able to get those peaks clean using the same methods I outlined. I left that in the video like that to show not all tuning will result in perfect results, it all depends on the filament, your printer configuration, and time spent.
I'd have to say possibly but unlikely. It would probably be better retraction or lower temperatures. There are tradeoffs usually though. Lower temps = weaker parts More retractions = possible retraction artifacts
I like the fact that this video shows honest results where there will be some amount of stringing anyway. I've seen other videos where they ALWAYS end up with perfect prints with not a single string. I wonder if some of them have been passed through the hot air gun before filming. Nice job!
I appreciate that. While perfect results are possible when everything's working really well and you have fantastic filament, I did think it was more educational and reassuring that this is what usually happens.
Great video, many enthusiasts early on fail to learn these steps & it reflects on there prints & often gives headaches. My tip: get a filament you like, dial it in with what’s shown here & stick with that filament. It’s not worth the trouble to save $2-3 swapping filaments
If you have the parts for calibration extension installed, which I assumed was installed by default as it was in my cura, there is a gcode script specifically for temp/ cooling towers which will insert all the temps with one quick script.. MUCH easier ;)
@@kerseyfabs Its in the market place, I assumed it was installed by default because I didn't install it but it was there in the extension menu.. Maybe because I use manjaro Linux.. Some useful stuff and scripts in there, worth a looksie ;)
@@sblack48 did you add the custom gcode.. you obviousely have to slice it with the gcode added.. You should see a temp command at the start of each section
Good stuff I was getting ready to run my Ender 5 through the paces and even downloaded the tower a few days ago but was stumped as to how to access the gcode.
I spent ages with retraction towers, just couldn't get rid of the stringing, after printing a temp tower I noticed no stinging around 190/195, set my temp at 190 retraction at 0.8 and wow no stringing anymore Happy days.
I’m doing this exact process today with a new filament, (my first new one that didn’t come with my printer) but I’m having an issue where my printer isn’t dropping nozzle temperature at all?. I’m having to go into the tuning menu and manually change it. Followed the post processing gcode exactly but having the issue mentioned above. Any reason why this may be? Thanks
Shouldn't you make sure to disable linear advance for the retraction test? Also what do you think about teaching tech's site that generates these models per layer?
I have to say, I'm not 100% sure. I don't use linear advance on my machines usually because I don't run that fast. I'd have to test it. I've seen TT video on his site but haven't tried it myself. Yet something else I should try.
Has anyone noticed the overhang test Kersey uses to test the printer will start printing layers in the air around 80-85? Starting from an already printed part then moving into unsupported air seems like where the printer should start. The sidewalls also seem to drag the filament several lines past where the following line should be printing, then it pulls the filament back into the rest of the print. There must be Cura settings to change these print behaviors for better-looking prints on this test.
If your slicer is doing that, you can change where it creates seams. "Z Seam Alignment" = "User Specified" then you can choose which side should support the filament.
@@kerseyfabs Thank you :) When rotating the test the back left is the furthest away from the viewer and the default setting. This is not what is needed for this test.
for some reason looking at the lcd and octoprint it looks like my tower never changed temps. any idea why? im using cura to slice, printer is ender 5 pro with th3d firmware and ezabl
Great video, you have been helping me understand and get more into 3d printing. In the video you mention doing extruder steps and flow rate, but I can not find your video showing that. Would you mind providing the link to it here. Thank you
I got my Ender 5 Plus several months ago from Tiny machines (MS extruder and hotend, 0.4 nozzle) and have been using Simplify 3D as my slicer. I want to move to Cura for the additional options and features, but am having a time trying to equate items in the two slicers to set the parameters from a good profile on S3D over to Cura. Can you recommend or even post a video on migrating from S3D to Cura and how to setup an equivalent profile in Cura from one that works in S3D? Many thx!
Sorry but I've never used S3D so I'm not familiar with the interface. I also have never searched out a conversion guide. I would think RU-vid would have one somewhere.
Thanks for this one, it´s good to have several ways to test, now I will ad yours to the collection as well, I usually run teachingtech one, but this I will try as well tomorrow if I get time over for it I think that the temperature tower seems easier to read the result from though compared to teachingtechs, but I doing both sure will make it good enough I think :)
steps and flow rate....... I checked the video you linked, I kept skipping around and I didn't see it. I probably should have watched start to finish and not wasted an additional 1/2hr. I had zero luck finding that in the link you provided in the video at around the 3:50 mark.
@@kerseyfabs no problem! That explains why I could not find it. I just loaded your firmware-BTTSKRV1.4Turbo-TMC2209-E5P-DualZ-2.0.9.1-KF-20210720-01 Neither my stock fans are running when the hot end hits temp. Old firmware from you controlled the fans. Looking around for gcode to fix.
ignore my last msg. I figured it out. I recompiled your previous firmware after watching Chris Riley's video. In configuration_adv.h file I had modified E0_Auto_Fan_Pin P2_04 I'm so rusty - so hard to keep up with this stuff...... anyways - thanks for your wonderful content.
I'm starting to believe retraction doesn't have a damn thing to do with stringing and blabbing. Adjusted mine from 1mm to 15mm with no change whatsoever.
Pro tip: In Cura, change the "Outer Wall Wipe Distance" under "Walls" (you may have to enable it) to the width of your nozzle. In the usual case "0.4" See if that helps.
@@kerseyfabs Replaced nozzle with minimal effect. Set retraction distance to 7mm and retraction speed to 60mm/s. Set combing mode to on with Not In Skin enabled.Set retract before outer wall to on. Set retract extra prime amount to .35mm3. Lowered print temperature to 190 from 200. Now getting just small wisps, which is acceptable considering what I was getting, lol.
