Welcome to my first RU-vid upload. In this video I customize the rear cargo cover on my wk2 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I enjoy camping and the outdoors and built a system to make accessing gear more convenient.
Since I've have a couple requests for measurements, I may make another video that shows more details of each of the parts with some measurements. It's hard to describe everything without visuals, so I'll try to put something together in the next week or two time permitting.
@@kalendrinn I mostly fit as I went. Here is a link to the video where I go over the measurements. Hope that helps. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mj7JygPkJaw.html
Thanks! I checked out some of your other videos. I like what you’ve done with your wk2. How is your roof rack holding up? I also have the front runner rails. I had issues with fracturing after awhile so I installed them on the pinch weld in my roof rack video. It’s been solid as a rock. Really happy with it.
I can’t stop watching your videos. I would definitely buy a kit from you. Thanks for taking the time to put out the measurements. Your build is amazing.
Hi, I don't have plans written up but I did make another video that shows the measurements I used if you want to check it out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mj7JygPkJaw.html
Thanks for the comment. Some of it was just stuff I had lying around the garage that i re-purposed. For the stuff i purchased, I haven't actually gone through and put it all together yet. Are there any specific parts that you like to know? The part number for the hinges I used is HG-OTA100. They allow the whole drawer system to be easily removable. The Gas struts i went with were the suspa C16-06867. Let me know if you have any specific questions. I'd be happy to help.
Amazing video! kaungka Cargo Cover for 11-17 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trunk Shielding Shade 2018 2019 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Black (Not Fit for Jeep Cherokee)
Hey Totis this is really cool! I'm just researching for my GC Overland fitout and yours popped up. This is the best as it does allow the spare to stay insitu if you can't afford the hefty spare carrier outside (Aussie market is nuts expensive atm)
I'm debating trying to make it into a kit that I can sell. Not sure if the market for it would be worth it yet. I'm doing a little R&D. We'll see. Thanks for the comment
@@junioraus8278 honestly it’s hard to say. I tried multiple variations before I was able to make it work and I didn’t really keep track of all the costs. But a rough estimate for materials would be between $3-400 some of that is excess though because you can’t always by the exact amount of material you need. Wood, glue, hardware, carpet, paint etc. Also depends on whether or not you have to buy tools.
Great video and super job on the build! I have a 2019 Altitude that I have been trying to do just what you have put together. If you are looking at selling a kit (or even plans) I would definitely be interested. There is so much aftermarket solutions for Jk's and JL's, but nothing for the WK2. So happy I stumbled on to your channel. Well done!
I agree, it’s hard to find good stuff for the wk2 although it does seem to be slowly improving. Thanks for the comment. I’m definitely giving thought to it as a side project if I can find the time. Will keep you posted.
First off, this is impressive. I have been building an offroad trailer to pull behind our WK2 for the past year or two, and storage inside the vehicle is something I would love to tackle now that that project is in a usable state. So far, I have the spare mounted on a hitch tire carrier that I welded up (similar to yours now that I see it) and a custom slide built for a fridge in the rear. What I don't have is the framework and platform you built to make the access to all that extra storage easy enough to be useful. I would definitely be interested in some measurements and maybe a bit more specifics in regards to the construction of the hinged platform itself. Heights of the standoffs to make things flush, the position of the gas strut attachment points, etc....... if only as to not make the same mistakes you mention. Regardless, thanks for putting up the video. It already has enough information for me to start a new project this weekend.
Does your Wk2 have the air suspension? If it does, probably the first thing you'd want to do is figure out the back rail that bolts down. If you have the air tank back there, there is not a lot of wiggle room and the way those things are mounted is a little flexible so giving you my measurements probably won't be helpful. I had to cut it in at a couple places so that the support bar wouldn't press into the tank too much. Once you have that bolted down you can measure from where you put the hinges to the edge where the floor board is flush at the tailgate. That would be the depth of the hinged platform. The rim that it sits on would be pretty much the same thought you may need to trim it half an inch or so. The width of both would just be the width and shape of the factory floor board. I started the drawer build behind the curve of the floor board so that there is no overhang in the front (front being closest to the tailgate) and then it stops about 3.5 inches before the back of the board (the back being the rear seats) so that when it lifts, it has some space otherwise the top of the drawer will run into the back seat preventing it from lifting. I made the exterior height of the drawer about 7.5 inches tall. It's really your preference depending on what you want to fit. Just keep in mind, the taller you make it the more space you'll need to leave in the back so it won't hit the seats. As for the base rim, I started at 1.5 inches in the back and tapered it forward to 2.5 inches and then as it curves to the front it's 3 inches. There is wiggle room with those measurements depending on your preference. The Struts are a tough one. Because the jeep basin is so curved there no exact point to measure from. The good news is that if you put the ball stud roughly where I put it in the vehicle, you can adjust where the ball stud bracket sits on the base board. Because its plywood, you can make a few sets of holes to find the best positioning. My brackets are set to that the ball is about 15 inches from the back of the board and about 4 inches in from the side. That's with the 17.1 inch 60lb strut. if you change the length of the strut you'll have to position it differently or else it may not shut. When my drawer is fully loaded 60lbs is a little weak. Sometimes i have to help it up. I may look for struts with the same length but closer to 80 lbs. Anyway, hope that helps. If something is not clear just let me know.
@@totisviribus2616 this is such a quality build with a real OEM feel to it, I am wanting to do the same to my own rig as I work to turn it into a touring machine. I would be keen to understand your measurements for the base if you have them to share, I am running a JGC Overland MY14 with air suspension.
@@totisviribus2616 Thanks for taking the time to put all that down in writing. It helps tremendously to have something to reference. I spent the better part of the morning today getting things ready in the back of my Jeep to start this project. My situation is slightly complicated by the fact I have already built (and have been using) a replacement storage platform back there to mount the 12v fridge and slide. I’d rather not have to scrap all that work to add the infrastructure underneath to bolt everything to. So I am kind of having to go at this thing in reverse. That said, since the current platform is just a copy of the one that was there from the factory (and therefore fits inside the plastic tub surround that I am trying to replace) that piece is probably gonna be a bit short once I get the hinge located where it needs to be.....so who knows, I may be fighting a losing battle. Like you, I have a DIY, welded together, hitch mounted tire carrier. In addition I have an 8ft off-road trailer we fabricated over the course of the last year or so. For some reason, designing and building those things wasn’t nearly as hard for me as trying get started on this hinged platform system. I guess mainly because of the scale. Cutting, grinding, and welding mild steel into an indestructible tank of a trailer is apparently much more in my wheelhouse. I’m having a hard time wrapping my brain around the tiny measurements and hardware required to position the bottom piece of your platform (the part that replaces the plastic surround) in space. If you made it this far, maybe could expand upon the 4 L Bracket attachment points you created and used as standoffs? I wish I could attach pictures. Hard to explain. Regardless, thanks for taking the time to make the video and respond. If I come up with any specific questions I’m sure I’ll be back here asking. Currently I just need to start cutting things and hope for the best. It will come together once the sparks start to fly.
I tried that initially. The problem is that the materials of the stock floor board and the plastic bin just aren't strong enough for the forces of the struts. I got it to kinda sorta work, but it was definitely not something that was going to last. Although, if you only want the stock cover to lift without any load on it, you could use very light struts, so you may actually be able to make that work. But you would still have to use some kind of hinge, otherwise the board will just pop out. I initially attached hinges to the plastic bin, which again could work possible with no load. If you look closely in the video you can see a bunch of holes where I had tried different methods to attach to the bin. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@totisviribus2616 Thank you for the input. If I ever overcome my laziness/procrastination and do all of the sound deadening/dampening I would like to do, I may see what I can do in the area with it all disassembled. I had thought of a piano hinge across the rear but will need to see how robust the rear is as to if it could even support that. Storage in the WK2 has always been a let down for me (last vehicle before my 3 consecutive WK2's was a Sequoia), so an easier way to access that area would be nice.
Hey mate, I am thinking of doing the same thing but with a drawer system, as well as keeping the spare tire where it is. Is there any possible ideas on how I can do it?
Hey there, thanks for the comment. Are there specific dimensions that you want? The way I did it, I optimized for it to functions as a table. If you wanted two drawers more for storage you may want to do it somewhat differently. I used the board that covers the spare tire as my initial base and went off that. Keep in mind, if you want it to lift like mine does you’ll need space between the end of the box and the rear seats. If you give me some more specific questions I’d be happy to answer.
Great work! Where did the fold down drawer front come from? It looks like a molded plastic piece so I imagine it was repurposed from something else, or was it homemade?
With the stock spare tire you really can't see much. A 5 spoke may give a bit more visibility. If I kept it on full time i would probably consider relocating, but since I only use it for longer road trips I've just left it as is.
