This rig is absolutely awwwwwesoooome!!!! I want to build a grand hauler bad, but It has to be stretched for sure, that makes it look sick!! Great work!!
Scale truck show your truck would get my vote hands down. Your attention to how front bumper looks is totally next level. From there every other detail is outstanding.
As a truck driver here in the states, that is the absolute most awesome rc semi ever. My Peterbilt is a stretched out flat top in solid white. Im sure you've been asked to sell that many many times. 😁
Hmm! Oh my yes this was an amazing video. The modifications were awesome indeed. The end result looks like the Pete's rolling the big road across the country! #keepontruckin 👍🏼
Looks really really nice very sharp build only thing I would like to see is the double frame like the real truck would have with the longer wheelbase but other than that it’s pretty darn close to perfect great job karl
So would you look at that.. I was just saying I wish I had a video that explained what this one just did.. LOL Awesome ride brother. Thanks for the tour and list of "what and wheres".
My bad! It was really simple. I had pre-cut the masking for each layer by hand with a razor blade and 12 inch scale as a straight edge. I used Frisket Film for these details. It doesn't bleed or leave a big edge like tape. In between each layer of paint, I put the masking for the next layer and sprayed away! I let it dry about a week between each coat, and sprayed the minimum required to not have a patchy layer. This way the Krylon was dry in the week and wouldn't wrinkle when I sprayed the next coat. Then each coat I let it tack up about 20 min before spraying the next coat so the solvent could evaporate and not be trapped and cause wrinkling on the paint underneath.
A truly splendid job! I have a question: can you tell me what brand the wheels are and where did you buy them? They are really beautiful. Thanks and congratulations again
They are Integy T5 wheels and RC4WD LoRider tires. I found them on their respective company sites and using the part numbers found/ordered from Amazon.
@@EthanSilveira I can't find custom blank ones that length anymore, but he does have predrilled that length. If you want blank you may be able to hit him up on Facebook and see if he can hook you up. Here's the link to the predrilled ones and you can choose the length and suspension options to have it drilled to. semijoerctruckshop.com/index.php?id_product=1063&controller=product
@@KarlsKrafts I'm only a fan of the bigger sleeper because I spent 16 years on the road so I'm always looking at the practical side of trucking. I would of only put the king sleeper on yours with opening doors to have the custom interior. I just thought as beautiful as it is on the outside, it deserves the same on the interior. I didn't realize your earlier videos were from a year ago( bad habit not looking at timelines) so ignore those comments. I'm going to do a 1/25 Diamond Reo and it looks like I'll have to follow your lead to build my lowboy trailer for it, since they don't seem to make the drop neck series in 1/25 that I can find. Building it like the truck and trailer my dad owned back in the day. Again, fantastic job. God bless.
I made the lowboy, all TIG welded steel. The Trackhoe is a TopRace TR-211. It's all metal but electric and slightly smaller scale, but it looks good on the back. LOL
Amazing job! I'm looking for the rims you have with the center caps but integy t8 rims don't have a center cap. They have this black spot in the middle where chrome should be.
The black spot is the acess hole to put your wheel nut on. Once thats on you screw the centercap on to cover it. But i did get integy t8s and they came with these center caps.
This the descriptions from there site. This one has no center cap Machined Alloy T8 Front Wheel Set for Hex Type 1/14 Scale Tractor Trucks C27649SILVER
These are the fronts i got. I got the matching rears too. They dont say centercap, but they do come with them. www.amazon.com/dp/B01KKJONQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_A08H87V6HW3R3CNN7S2V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've thought about it and probably will one day. I've taken a break from this project. Lots of time spent and it seemed never ending. I f you do not have the MFC01 I would not get it. I would try the Beier. The MFC01 doesn't really have the capability to run all the lights I wanted to, and really every part of it sucks. The only parts I like are the special functions and sound. The ESC, Servo controls, light controller are all inadequate for modern day style and components.
@@dion7470 I haven't tried it yet, but I'd recommend the Beier SFR-1. It does say it's for "experts" and requires programming and soldering. But it has a manual on their page to check out before purchasing so you can see if you think you'd be able to handle it before buying. hobbyconcepts.net/products/beier-sfr-1-sound-light-speed-control. It is as cheap as the lowest price MFC01 I could find, and less than half the MSRP for the MFC01 so you could almost kill 3 of them for the full price of the MFC01. Short of that, I'd recommend finding each component individually. Find a nice crawler esc that pairs nicely to a motor of your choice, find the servos that size that you choose(high torque or std), find a cheap BEC that can push the amps needed for your servos(you don't need controller for steering, shift or 5th wheel, just enough channels on TX/RX), find a cheap sound unit(there's a bunch on Amazon/Ebay), and same for light controller. Find a cheap one. I'm not pointing to anything in particular because there's a wide variety out there that would be great, especially depending on what you wanted(for example: you don't want blinkers or you only want on off for lights, no functions) I'd also recommend getting an FRsky TX/RX. They have a learning curve, but for the money(very cheap compared to spektrum/futaba) they have so much capability that if your really interested in RC you can't go wrong and it can do any RC model you want to use, as long as you can program it. There's tons of folks that know alot and are willing to help set it up, also open-txu.org/ that has a guide to walk you through it(that's what I used to learn how to set mine up). The MFC01 was designed before there were any other options for these type of functions. It's very simple and outdated technology. But it put all these functions together in a way that you could easily follow instructions, plug and play, and allowed you to only use a 4ch TX/RX. Nowadays, there are brushless motors, lipo batteries, cheap 18ch TX/RX like frsky taranous, many other light controllers and sound controllers. So while the plug and play follow directions for one simple package is cool, it only works if you want to use stuff that would have been around 20 years ago, and only use what it was intended to do. If you want something custom, it doesn't work. If you want different motors it doesn't quite work. If you don't want blinkers, it doesn't work that way. So if your planing to build the kit as originally intended by Tamiya the MFC01 is a quality product that would work well. If you wish to do a custom build or give yourself options for the future, don't waste money buying it because you will need to replace it the minute you go beyond what comes in the kit.
Hello, I am a truck model builder from Germany and I find the lowered front axle on your truck interesting. Can you tell me whether you built it yourself or bought it like that? Unfortunately, I am looking in vain for such an axle for my truck Greetings Dave from Germany
Got it from ebay. Here is a similar one. www.ebay.com/itm/Alum-1cm-Lower-Front-Axle-Upright-Bar-for-Tamiya-1-14-Semi-Grand-Hauler-Truck-/252062852451?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
@@KarlsKrafts hello karl thank you for the link I just have to see how the axle fits under my Peterbilt 379 from the model company WEDICO because tamiya is a bit bigger Greetings from Berlin in Germany
I bought the Tamiya Grand hauler kit on Amazon, the hood and front fenders from Shapeways, the bumpers, grill, lights, wheels, tires, and other electronics from a mix of semijoerctruckshop.com/, www.truescale-rc.com/, ebay, and Amazon. I built the trailer from raw steel.
nice video, I am going to try to build one my self for the first time in a while. I want to build a rc 1/14 scale with low boy trailer with all of the extra thing that go in it and want to haul a 1/14 excavator on it and what kind of radio (something that does not cost a lot) thanks and where to find the kits at, I am in San Antonio, Texas
For the Tamiya Grand Hauler kit I started with, I just shopped Amazon for the best price. As far as all the extra parts like Pete hood, fenders, light bezels, and cab lights I went to www.truescale-rc.com/. Other parts were longer frame rails, grill, drive shafts and I got those from semijoerctruckshop.com. Then I got other bits like the RC4WD LoRider tires, the swan on the grill, bumpers, and Integy T5 wheels searching Amazon and Ebay. Then there was tons of custom work I did. The trailer was complete scratch build welded up with all steel. The excavator is a Top Race TR-211M I got off Amazon.
Mr. Karl, is there any way that you may have or know the sizes of metal to build a Semi Bottom Dump Trailer. I see pictures of them, but I can’t find any Info on the material, or Length and width. Any help will do. Thank you for your time.
Neither.... im using a DIY module. I took the Xmit chip out of my DX6i and put it on a board i found on banggood.com and stuck that in a 3d printed box in the module bay and wired up to an antenna that i mounted in the prexisting hole on the top of the x9E. All i needed to do was select the right modulation in the settings for the model and bind it.
All i needed to do... It was confusing and took me about a week to set the radio up. Although I never used any kond of opentx before... Once i figured it out it was a simple process.
Good afternoon my friend I love the truck. I just got me a kit and I’m going to get a 32 frame rails from semi Joe but we are having a hard time finding a place for suspension. What did you do for suspension?
For the rear I flattened the springs and I think I needed to trim the axle a little with a dremil. The front has a 1CM drop axle from ebay. I think it would be better to use a 5mm drop axle though, or even possibly just the original and flatten the springs a bit.
@@bradleybarnett2058 i just flattened them out and slid the axle further forward on them think to line up with the 3d printed printed Petehood and fenders.
I found the front axle on Ebay 10mm lowering axle. For the rear I just flattened the springs and trimmed the frame a little to clear the original axles.
I got a bunch from E-bay, some from Amazon, others from www.truescale-rc.com/, and a bunch from www.semijoerctruckshop2.com/. Enjoy. There was far too many parts to list which ones I got where but those 4 locations were the only places I ordered from.
Originally a DX6I, then swapped to Frsky X9E. Still using Spektrum RX but plan to redo the truck to add hydraulics for the trailer, adjustable suspension, replace the MFU, and swap out to a 16ch rx at some point in near future.
I compared measurements got the biggest one. If you look, one of the dimensions is slightly different than the rest. I dont know how accurate those are and what they look like, but thats how I chose. Lol
Semi truck noob here.... Why such a long chassis!? I've seen this on other R/Cs and 1:1 too, but why?! Aesthetic??? To prevent jackknifing when backing up??? Those are my guesses.
I did it for looks... 1:1 reasons, not sure. I've read everything from back in the day hauling steel and girders and letting them overhang the trailer, old bridge weight limit laws and spreading weight further to accommodate, to smoother ride and people thought it looked cool. Obviously you don't see it often on daily trucks, mostly show trucks so I'd assume if there ever was a functional reason that there isn't anymore and it would be for looks.
@@nicholaswright7592 not sure in todays dollars. Its was somewhere around $2500 just in parts for the tractor. The trailer had about $700 in parts/materials. This was 4 years ago before all the inflation so I'm sure that's cheap compared to now. Id imagine you could add at least 30% for parts and then take that total and double it for my labor. Not cheap by any means.
I lowered the rear also. The tires are smaller diameter, but I also flattened rear springs a bit to lower supsension and then trimmed some parts to clearance the axles.
Not really, most parts were random e-bay finds with no part numbers or parts I modified. The grill and wheels/tires are the only parts that were bolt on. Even the driveshafts... 2 were bolt on, I built the 3rd by modifying and rebuilding the 3rd as there wasn't a matching driveshaft the size I needed. As far as all the extra parts like Pete hood, fenders, light bezels, and cab lights I went to www.truescale-rc.com/. Other parts were longer frame rails, grill, drive shafts and I got those from semijoerctruckshop.com. Then I got other bits like the RC4WD LoRider tires, the swan on the grill, bumpers, and Integy T5 wheels searching Amazon and Ebay. Then there was tons of custom work I did. The trailer was complete scratch build welded up with all steel.
@@allenpace1449 I dont know your skill level or fab abilities, so I'd recommend just building a Tamiya Grand Hauler kit and then upgrade and replace parts sith nicer custom ones you find as you find them or learn how to modify/fab them.
I have a question about how you connected the OB1 blue tooth system and your MFC? I have tried a bunch of different variations of connecting my OB1 and the Tamiya MFC 01 including using the connection schematic the folks from the OB1 Facebook sent me. The schematic they /. sent to me is poor quality. I am running a to channel Frysky radio which I which but I know the issue is not radio because it has the same issue with my Futaba radio as well as setting up a friends Spectrum . Any assistance or knowledge you might pass along would be greatly appreciatedLM
Check this video. I think I wire it up here. But I think it was very simple and straightforward. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Uyi2giaOpSo.htmlsi=CdtavdxIa75FbXoB
