RU-vid needs a LOVE button. I don’t have the patience to create something like that but I am constantly astounded at the precision and creativity of these old machines and the people that designed and used them. No CAD not 3D modelling and quick prototypes. Someone crafted every piece of that machine. I hope that someone is still loving and enjoying that machine long after we are both gone. Love your work mate!
There are still people who care about craftsmanship. But to far too many people they often associate craftsmanship with "art". And by "art" I mean pottery, fine woodworking etc. They fail to realize that there is craftsmanship in the machining world. I remember watching a show on PBS about the making of high end jewellery. Part of the show featured a shop in London where a master craftsman was using a hand powered shaper to cut detail work on a solid gold clutch purse. Yes the machine cut the details. But it took a master craftsman to use it. And I hope in the future when Chris hangs it up these tools find a good home. As an aside every time I hear some idiot complain about some zillionaire owning a superyacht, a private jet or having some huge house built. I cringe because usually they are complaining because they think the money should have gone to "help"people (usually them). I tell them the money did go to help people. The people that were employed to build, maintain and operate said things. Now if the said zillionaire Floyd all over, cruises on his/her yacht and irrigated his estate while lecturing the peons about climate change. That ticks me off.
Nice to see a bit more of the machine itself, what a beautiful piece of kit! So many questions about all the adjustments you make while in the process of cutting….
I believe that this is the most interesting machine you have. The patterns you create with it are so mesmerizing! It is truly a piece of art in skilled hands like yours!
Always in awe of your perfect surface finishes. Assuming that you actually make mistakes once in a while, I’d enjoy a video on how you fix them, hide them, or work around them.
this reminds me of investigating the patterns produced by a Spirograph I got as a Christmas present some 60 years ago. Absolutely fascinating; the ingenuity of someone to come up with such a machine astounds me.
The more I see you use this machine the more I am amazed at its workings and your skill with it. Would really like to know more about this machine of yours, can you do a "Long segment on it?"
I know you are more focused on the clockmaking area but you could make an absolutely stunning dashboard for a custom classic car. Like a custom milled set of guages. Something on the level that rolls royce or pagani would do with their interiors. The rolls royce phantom has what they call the gallery in the dashboard of their newest model where the owner can have a custom piece of artwork displayed. You should definitely have something like that featured with your skills.
👍👏👌 Unbeliiiievably fantastic! All three of it: The craftsman, the machine, the result. Thanks a lot for making explaining recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards luck and health in particular.
I love these type of videos you do, the main thing to me that is mind boggling though is how do you get the work piece to be flat relative to your cutter with just sticking it on like that o.0
It's beautiful - both the workpiece and the machine. The finish is so clean... I was wondering about swarf and chip control; presumably it's undesirable to get anything trapped between the work and the tool, so things are ground, angled and relieved to guide and keep the waste away from the cut, but do different metals behave very differently? I know that this is fine silver, but would copper, steel, gold, brass, aluminium, titanium or platinum require a different set of cutters, or is it all down to experience, careful judgement and endless testing, fettling and fiddling? Whatever. I could watch this sort of thing for hours. I especially appreciate the clear, shadow-free closeups - it's typical Clickspring quality, and certainly not something to be taken for granted.
So pleased you're enjoying Elli - yes different cutter geometry depending on the material and yes very careful with the chips, especially the soft stuff like fine silver - Cheers :)
Beautiful! One question, how do you ensure that the surface to be cut is level/flat/whatever with the machine once you set it in the fixative stuff. Sorry, I just don't know what to call everything.
I get this pecture of what amounts to a "press" where the bottom jaw is that resin arbor, and the top jaw can gently hold the workpiece, like...double sided tape, maybe? or hot glue? so you heat up the resin bedding, close the press, and push the workpiece into the resin, and then break the gentle attach to the upper...I'm sure there are other ways but this seemed the best in my brainstorming as a way to mount the workpiece to the arbor as close to REPEATABLY parrell, with minimal adjustment to perfect. I'd love to hear feedback if this is a good idea!
How many of the bump rings did you go through before you settled on this design? Have you done test examples of all the possibilities, or are the possibilities close to infinite?
So as you can see at roughly 1:09 in the video he is using a hammer with light taps to adjust the base plate. Basically he uses a level surface when applying the small plate to the wax on the base plate and gets it as relatively close as he can by hand, then uses the rose engine's collet lock in adjustments to get the final tune. It's similar to how people re-center things on a lathe.
As above. You "touch off" with the cutting tool to measure for flatness across the material. In this case, touching off was done with the protective plastic in place so the material wasn't marked. Then the plastic was peeled away and a zero was established between cutting tool and material so desired cutting depth could be accurately controlled
@@20vK there is actually a rounded depth stop on the right side of the cutting edge thats used to keep a consistent cutting depth when he presses the slide into the workpiece
Truly a wonderous machine Chris, thanks for the video. I'm wondering if after cutting that or any pattern is it possible to to then make a tube out of it at about 10.5mm internal diameter and solider it?
Can someone point me towards an explanation of the phase change on the index plate? How would one go about calculating spaces when making a rose engine? Thanks
Looks like engravers/chasers pitch to me, used in jewellery making. The old stuff was black and bitumen based but the nicer and less messy version is red and based on pine resin I think.
One difference is that CNC uses a rotary tool and the rose engine uses a sharp graver type tool, which gives a brighter and shinier cut finish than a spinning tool will achieve. That’s quite important, especially when the work is going to be enamelled and the light must reflect back through for maximum effect. Also, rose engines are just cool as !
It could be, and these days, usually is. There are subtle differences in the patterns obtained from a rose engine (and its 'cousin' the straight line engine) that gives a different result.
