I’ve just looked at your website for boards, blown away by the fact you donate to foster care projects. I’ve been a foster parent for 20 years in the UK, thank you.
As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement ru-vid.comUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!
Regarding snipe, stagger your feeds. With boards between 1 and 2 inches wide, you can feed between 6 and 12 at a time through the planer. Just stagger the feeding of each board by a couple inches. You'll only get snipe on the first board in and the last board out, and if you're using a long piece or a sacrificial piece, then you'll effectively have none.
I never made end grain boards before. I followed your steps exactly and my cutting boards turned out beautifully. Thank you so much! Also, I loved that you showed us your helper.
Thanks so much for making such a detailed video where you explain all the steps. I watch this video numerous times before and during putting together my first cutting board. I made a few mistakes along the way but learned a lot and was very happy with the finished product. Your video made this project a success. Thanks again and keep them coming.
best video on a step by step way to make and finish cutting boards... excellent job... and I always love seeing the younger generations interested in helping out.... great video...
OMG thanks for the excellent video on here I’ll try and watch all of your videos for sure. No one else’s videos even come close too your quality. I can’t wait to start making my first cutting board. Thank you...
Thanks for your experienced, i usually use mineral oil for the fist step then finish with some of product like wood finish contain polycrylic. Now im gonna change the last step to bee wax, that will save lot of money.
I am just getting into woodworking and want to teach my kids as i go. This tutorial is great! Thank you for posting this. I am curious where your plans are for the router table and the jigs you made.
Thank you for posting this video and thank you for talking in it too. I like to know the why's of doing things rather than just seeing the results. And while we are talking about results, those are beautiful results.
For those who have under powered saws. You can use a Freud thin kerf straight line rip blade. About $90 but it’s well worth it. With a consistent feed rate you can eliminate 95% of the saw marks. The other thing that can help greatly is, when you rip the thin strips, switch to a zero clearance blade insert.
Wow! What an excellent video. Great, detailed explanations. You have inspired me to make some boards and, from your other videos, I'm going to try router bowls next. I love your explanations and seeing your little helper in the shop. He is learning many lessons, some of the most valuable going beyond woodworking. Great father-son time. Thanks for the effort you put into these videos.
Hi there, just found your channel and it's full of awesome tips and tricks I've not seen elsewhere yet. You're a natural at teaching, have cool projects to inspire, and package your videos so well! Congrats and good luck on getting more subs!
Great job, getting my wood ready and will start after getting back from Montreal on vacation. Very indepth explanation of the process. Will review the video again. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.😀
@@rickdearmont9950 a good number 4 smoothing plane can replace both the drum sander and planer. I own a couple of Jack planes and smoothers and plan to do this project.
I used to have chip out using my planer with hard maple and a few others until I started moving the head in smaller increments. It takes longer because you have to run your boards through twice or more, but tear out is virtually non-existent now. I did learn a couple of things, thanks for the vid.
I see this is an older video, but it worked perfectly for me. I had never made a cutting board before, but it was a great guide. I made 2 boards already. Granted, I have a planer, jointer, and router table...and as you say, a crosscut sled for your table saw is invaluable, and very easy and inexpensive. For me, the most important thing is cleaning up the glue surfaces. Thank You...
@@SixEightWoodworks You omitted a couple of "tips". 1.) Make sure your juice grove jig doesn't break, or you drive the router off the edge. 2.) Don't get in a big hurry and go the wrong direction with the router inside the juice groove jig--especially on the final pass. You end up with a deep rut right in the middle of the board :).
I see all the Seattle gear 😉 I live in port orchard ! I’m super new at woodworking cause I’m retired and need a hobby, your video was awesome Brother. Thank you!
Starting into craft type woodworking projects now and I've always been interested to see how these cutting boards are made. A great tutorial that definitely has me thinking about a project for my son the chef.
Very good video and I appreciate your technique and explanations. I’ve got my wood, clamps and glue. I do have a planer and drum sander and am attempting to initially make the end grain boards, but then cutting them again and turning them into end grain boards. Also, I’d like to develop some sort of jig for my router so I can make a juice groove and router the edges. Currently, I take them to a guy who has a CNC , only bc I don’t want to mess up what I spent so much time, making. Eventually, I’d like to confidently, do it myself
Well done. I can see you are very comfortable in your shop and you know your tools well. Very impressive. I did see one thing that would benefit you tho. I know changing a table saw blade sucks, but when doing a large amount of stock like you did here, a 24 tooth 1/8 kerf ripping blade will pay dividends in your time. It will cut about 1/3 faster than the combo blade you got there and it will actually leave less burns and be a straighter and cleaner cut... As long as you get a glue line ripping blade from a reputable company. I know people say you shouldn't use a full kerf on a 110v saw, but they are wrong. Yes you can push so fast that you stall the motor, but it's still faster than the others. The full kerf will reduce blade wobble. And if you don't want a full kerf then you can get a thin kerf ripping blade and put blade stabilizers on the sides of it so you don't get wobble and large amounts of burns. Other than that you knocked it out of the park. Especially impressive that you were able to get that juice catch done without any burns in the corners. Keep up the content. I'll be looking forward to more of your videos
Thanks for your comment. Totally agree with blade changes. I actually have the ripping blade and a few others I’ll swap in and out. Sometimes it’s being lazy (even though it would save me time in the long run), other times I just forget to swap out when milling. Definitely overdue to clean my blades too. The little things to add up and can really help with efficiency. Appreciate the reminder!
@@SixEightWoodworks ah! I get that lol. Happens to me all the time. Especially with bandsaw blades. I hate changing those things. Happy Thanksgiving, man. Have a good day
Awesome, Having the right tools, I don't small basement and like to start making with what I have, Small table saw, Chopping saw, sanders, clamps, and hand held router. Want to try it to see how it will come out. then I can spend some money of planer or better sander. Best to be able to find good cheap wood.
Really cool dude - Love the fast action to get through the repetitive parts - Would appreciate if you can elaborate more on the planning part after gluing - I can't understand how you get straight without an edger on one side. Thanks a lot!
With a good glue up, the planer can get it dead flat. Sometimes I put it on a melamine sled with shims to get one face flat first. Then can flip it and have a parallel flat surface on both sides.
For curley maple gun stocks, we would raise the grain and knock it diwn as the last step before staining and oiling. We were hand building black powder rifles for fur trade era reenactments and so all of the Gunsmithing practices that we used were from that era. Acid staining and linseed oil. After wiskering the stock, we would apply a diluted acid, usually Hydrochloric, and let it dry and then just lightly feathered the treated wood with the flame of a propane torch. This would cause the wood to darken rapidly, and once the desired shade was attained, we would use baking soda and water to neutralize the stock and then just plain water to rinse the baking soda away and then allow it to dry overnight again before giving it one final gentle wiskering and then applying linseed oil. Applied as hot as the hands can stand and rubbed in until dry. One coat a day for a week. One a week for a month, and one a month a year with yearly applications thereafter.
It was really need to learn about. It was my father who was actually into it at the time, but I picked up some really neat skills just hanging out with him in the Gun Room. He recently gave me most of a wood shop, and so while I have always been more interested in working metal, wood has always presented a particular challenge for me that I wish to master. And so, I find myself on RU-vid! 😂
great video. I am somewhat new to woodworking and really enjoy these simpler task as I have started making table tops and those take so much time. I like that you do a batch. I tried to do that and noticed I need a lot more clamps. I going to gluing my first checkboard this week and see how it turns out. Thanks for the info on the template to use for cutting the drip groves. i was trying to figure out how to do that. Great work overall
What a great video, Ive just completed a a run of natural edge boards all red gum which is and Australian hardwood. Im looking at a few new ideas and you may have provided me some inspiration.
Great work!!! I also made a cutting board in my home workshop a few days ago! I liked this exciting process so much that I decided to upload it to my channel!😎👍👍👍
*Great information, I'm a woodworker learning how to use a lathe,* just made a oakfork, finished it with hemp oil and some food grade wax keep up the good work bye for now your new friend Ken God bless. I look forward to hear from you
WOW! Your work is spectacular! I could not be more impressed with wood working skills like you have! I just finished my wood working 11 class in high school, and you are helping me get more ideas on how I can design my boards and many other projects to sell online as well. I have one quick question, where did you get your thickness sander? I need to get one of those sanders if I am going to make the cutting boards that I want to build and sell. Thank you so much for inspiring me to start my own wood working shop!
Thank you so much for taking the time to walk through all of steps in great detail. I do have a few questions. Where do you get your wood from? The big box stores may carry some of the woods but they are pretty pricey. Applying the oil segment I didn't hear what type of oil you used and I noticed you were using pail/container for the overflow. Do you reuse the oil? Thanks again.
