You have inspired me to get back into the garage and get working on rebuilding my 57' Dodge short box truck pro-street. When I find myself up against the impossible, I ask myself "What would Fitzee do!" Like so many others that have already stated, your ability to break down a complex piece into bite size bits and then communicate it to us as an educational video is truly remarkable! Thank you!
I was one of those people saying…. What’s the big deal? Just slot the holes…. Not Tony!!! No Sir he says… not goin at it…. I’m doin it right from the get-go…. That’s the reason why everyone loves this channel … no cutting corners with this guy… Well done again Sir!!!👏👏👏👏👏👌
Never miss a chance to watch you workout a challenge watching you is a trip to my youth watching my elders and them teaching me just like a mirror to my mind What a great guy you are
Thanks for posting. Most of us, who have looked at custom cars, never realized just how much work goes into them. Especially, the areas that we'll never see. Thanks again.
Tony, thank you for the safety tip of pinching the cut off wheel. I have never had to cut a frame rail and getting it caught under power could be a major health issue. Much appreciated. I imagine many structures can have the same issue and it is food for thought before hitting the switch.
Wow! That sure was interesting figuring out moving the frame rails in to make room for putting in your seat and then making mounts to put the seat in at a lower angle. You did a great job of explaining everything on how you did all of this. you are a fantastic teacher.
I'm never going to build a car frame BUT I still enjoy your approach and explanations on solving a problem and making adjustment until you get it right. Great video.
I don't see you figuring anything for heat in the winter and especially, no air conditioning. Don't you want to be cool running down those Canadian dragstrips in hot weather? Ok, all kidding aside, this series has been amazingly educational and interesting beyond belief. Thank you so much.
I used a similar seat mounting solution on my Firebird, but used 1”x3” rectangular tubing to bolt the seat to, I also used 2x3 rectangular tubing for my rockers and inside frame rail. I had mentioned this issue in an earlier frame video because I ran into the same problem
I remember these early Corollas, they were true rust bucket but their 1600HEMI engines were great. The way you build that car, for sure that it gained considerable weight but it gained rigidity too. I don't believe that you'll be able to plate it to use on the road but that car will be a real contender on the drag strips. I'm anxious to see the project completed. very good work and video.
Hi Tony. It must have been hard to cut into the chassis that you put together so nicely. The end result is great but I know I would have had a hard time making that first cut. I guess pondering over it helps too. Thanks for the video! -mike
I like your style. you know the engineers would have a fit because you didn't plan the seats out & had to rework . but they only see the theory side, not the practical side. with the way you cut your pieces makes sense. a buddy built a bunch of outdoor seating & tables for a bar out of 2" square tube. he did the same thing and had virtually no waste because he did the matching cuts like you did. many people think they have to start with a square cut before they cut the angles. good tip for everyone. your process for making parts the same are great too. common sense but seeing it makes so much sense
Have same seats I my hot rod never liked them and didn't like the fact that 2 of the bolt were to the floor sheet metal. Your video makes me realize my seat angle is all wrong maybe they would be ok if I mount them correctly. Thanks keep videos coming.
Damn man. Certainly smart fer a nufie. Lol that’s coming from Brunswick mic Mac. Love your channel and stealing ideas to get my 68 stang ifs and LS manual swap done. Thanks keep it up, can’t wait till u giver GO!!!!!
As always tony tips were great Its always a great night when i watch your videos and learn new things. And yes i was yelling oblong the holes lol. Thanks for your videos tony
Its always the little things huh Fitzee that test us and bite us in the bum but you got it there mate and your sat where you wanna site so great result and great job 👍
If you have problems with parts pulling when welding, try sequence welding instead of straight welding. I was making some frames and having trouble with them pulling out of square , so I sequence welded them instead and they stayed square.
Nice work Fitzee, mind you i don't think you can get away with one of those racing buckets for Wendy. She'll be needing a Toyota Crown Super Deluxe seat😁
Hey Fitzee, let me start my first comment on your channel by expressing my utmost respect of what you do and how you do it. I am doing some metal shaping my own, but pull my hat about your skills and knowledge. It only gave me some concerns when I saw how close the frame is towards the back of your seat. Sure - the frame is expected and supposed to remain the rigid element in case of an accident. But I still would be afraid that in case of a heavy hit from the rear, the frame could break or deform and shove that corner throuh the seat right into my spine. So I guess, I would cut off the sharp corner and flatten it.
Hi Tony interesting video. As I watched I was thinking, a dangerous thin for me to do. You knew where and at what angel you wanted the seat. If you hung the seat in position from the roof, then took measurements to make your bracing fit the hung seat position. There might have been less refitting required. A different approach to fitment issues. You got it done and can check that off your list.
👍💪✌ Hey Tony, I prefer the millimeters vs. old school measurements. It's way easier to use as well. Nice job, it takes what it takes, best to redo things if you are not happy. Now is easier than once you are done! Guess the inspector Peanut didn't make it out today. Am sure she's approve 😉
Great tips as usual. Had to laugh when you said, "Hey Tony, just long gate the holes." Since I was thinking that too, to move the seat forward a little bit. You are spot on when it comes to making parts like the outside gussets. Will you make plates for the underside of the angled pieces since they will be under tension now?
Nice work Fitzee. An uncomfortable race driver is an unsuccessful race driver. In the '80's I built a '71 Pinto with an Alston kit and fit a 6'5" driver similar to how you solved your problem.
You must protect yourself. The upper part of the seat is literally in touch with the frame. Any significant blow from the rear will result in breaking your spine. That's not safe. I believe you have to increase the distance between the seat and the frame behind it and also put a buffer there.
The rail behind the seat would you be able to slope the corner instead of having it square? to give you more room behind the seat, if you sloted the holes on the seat wouldn't it be able to move in an accident, you forgot the burnout noises 😅🤣 all the best to you and your loved ones
Where the back of the seat is so close to or touching the frame rail "point". You did round it a little. Not good enough to keep from possibly feeling it on your back on acceleration or wheelies (: , That seat back WILL flex. I suggest cutting the corner out of the frame "point". Just the top and front of the rail. Then weld in a short piece of that 1" tube to make more of a rounded tip/point..... and at the same tme maintain structural by using the short piece of tube for a "new frame corner". I think you will be surprised at the clearance it will create. Anyway draw it up on the bench top and see. A larger than 1" tube would be even better, you can cut back the point further. If a piece of roll cage tube will fit, that is the Coupe De Grass. I know you will say yo can't weld all around the tube, it will be trapped inside. So let it be cradled and stick out both sides and weld. The above may spark a better idea than mine. Kudos on your progress and thanks for the videos.
I'm curious if the use of round tube on the rocker bar is due to some compliance issue. Seems like using the rectangular tube would have given you the space to weld the two cross bars in high at the front and low at the rear to get the angle you were chasing.
Yes it would have but the rocker bar is part of the roll cage and where it's tight to rocker the tubing gives a easier access to welding on the body plates later on.
Sorry about this comment but I was watching you Mock up the seat and the whole time I’m saying turn that box steel sideways I had a shop back Half a 65 Falcon for me and they turned the frame rails flat so I could have more headspace and under the car space.
Ponderin' an' thinkin', Where he be sittin'. A wide hide he be. Old school his glee. When throne he choose. A few inches must lose, Lower must noggin go. Cut, fit, weld, 'til just so. Task is now complete, Much ado 'bout a seat. ,
