I just wanted to say I think you did a really good job with your website and I appreciate all the videos you've put out. Thank you and I look forward to shopping at your website.
Hey thanks for the vid. Love it. I'm also finding out easier ways to do things. When multiplying extra steps per each CVG bucket i do (5 a day) makes a huge time saving difference. I would add for extra time saving and easier CVG: Mix all the ingredients in the bucket first. It's just faster. If you use gypsum in the pot, you'll have to clean it afterwards. And that consumes time, water and soap. And i mix everything right after use it. Yes, it's not so even, but it works and saves me mixing with spoon after half an hour. Plus I'm not exposing the substrate to contaminants when it's under pasteurization temperature. Also I wouldn't do it in the floor unless you mope it well before. I really like your approach about saving time and steps. Will dive through your site right now. Gracias
You need to mix the 3 ingredients together before pouring the boiling water into it. That is the only way to ensure complete pasteurization. Mix 500g Coir 500g Vermiculite 100g Gypsum then pour in 16 cups of boiling water. Seal and leave overnight. Your substrate needs to be at a sustained temperature over 160F for a minimum over 30 minutes, 60 would be better. Leaving it overnight allows it to cool on its own without being re-exposed to contamination.
Would of been nice to see how much of everything to make a bulk batch.. the calculator you have takes in account the size of container which I dont know because I havent gotten one yet and will when I start seeing mycelium
Well then you don't need the calculator yet either... lol Its just a 2 to 1 ratio substrate to grain spawn... if you do 1:1 it won't hurt anything just a waste of spawn.... So how's it going? Have you harvested any mushrooms yet?
Wish i had seen this video before i did my substrate yesterday. The only type of coco coir i found around here was raw fibers, so they were not broken down into a powder and looked pretty gnarly. I boiled them for some time just to make sure, they did settle down more after water was introduced, but needless to say theyre not compacted. Should i try to cut them up somehow or i just leave it now? I have already layered my spawn into it. Also didnt put vermiculite, should i put it on top of it?
I think you should leave it just as it is and see what you learn! Might get a great grow out of it, or it might completely flop. One thing I know for sure...the more you disturb it now, the greater the chances you'll have for some competing organisms to take over. Let it grow and see how that coco works for you!
Is it too late to add cvg to my shoeboxes after a week? I didn't add a top layer and I don't want my substrate to dry out. Right now it's about 1 and a 1/2 inches of sub/grain in my boxes. Thanks
What if i don't have these substances i.e coco, vermiculite and gypsum, is there any other substitute that i can get easily? Like cow dung can i create a substrate out of it?
Coco coir and vermiculite are the easiest ingredients to obtain in all of mycology.... you can get them almost anywhere that has a garden section.... the coco for sure..... Walmart... lowes.... pet stores....
@@ObakuZenCenter in grains it seems to keep the rice from sticking together. In Cvg as a bulk substrate it adds calcium and sulphur which aids in healthy fruiting body production, although many grains supply calcium. Not necessary, but need to do a side by side comparison to see if there's a noticeable improvement.
Hi there! I believe you're asking about the vermiculite. It's a mineral that is mined from the Earth and then processed under high temperature and pressure to make it very porous. This helps it hold and maintain water for the mycelium to use during their colonization process. Does this answer your question?
This is a copy-paste from something I saw elsewhere: Vermiculite is a member of the phyllosilicate group of minerals, resembling mica in appearance. Comprised mainly of silica oxide, aluminum oxide and magnesium oxide, with trace amounts of many other minerals. It is found in various parts of the world, but currently the major mines are located in South Africa, China, Brazil, Zimbabwe, and the United States. Raw mined vermiculite is heated, causing it expand to many times its original volume, a property known as exfoliation.
Nope, the hot water pasteurizes the substrate so no sterilization is needed. Pasteurizing the bulk substrate keeps around 20% of the microbial life which is actually good for the mycelium vs sterilization which kills all of the microbial life. This is the only step where you want to pasteurize a substrate.
The use of alcohol I find odd in this industry. Alcohol is a poor disinfectant/aseptic vs bleach and water/disinfectant that kills everything…any idea as to why
I’m curious as to why you consider isopropyl alcohol a poor disinfectant and an odd choice in mycology? You stated why bleach shouldn’t be used. 70% is an effective disinfectant and antimicrobial. It kills organisms by denaturing their proteins and dissolves their lipids. It is effective against most bacteria, fungi, and lipids, but not against bacterial spores. That last part is key. Bleach is too harsh and doesn’t dry as quickly. These are reasons you don’t want to use 90% isopropyl solutions.
@@tko3779 alcohol cannot kill bacterial spores. Alcohol can kill germs, it’s a lightweight. I am in the medical profession, 37 years, even during Covid we used bleach and water. You don’t sterilize with alcohol. My last bags I switched to bleach and water for my transfer needles 12g instead of flame and alcohol, all 4lb bags (6) had zero problems. Getting my tubs ready to transfer into and will again use BW for the bag outer, the tubs. Will see what happens, it’s all just a thought. Regardless, enjoying your teachings. Thank you
I think because it is a very forgiving solvent. Bleach is much more harmful to the skin, and most importantly isopropyl alcohol evaporates in seconds, bleach needs to be thoroughly rinsed with clean water (which reintroduces all kinds of contamination) or it will harm whatever touches that surface you applied Bleach to. Bleach is definitely good if you need to use a flame as its non flammable, and its good if you are trying to save a jar or tub that was contaminated, Bleach is recommended for that.
You could try, but it's likely that other organisms will colonize the substrate first. Spores take a very long time to germinate and begin a mycelial network...long enough that molds or bacteria may take over your grow project first. I recommend germinating your spores in a liquid culture, then inoculating grain in order for the mycelium to get a good healthy start. Liquid culture isn't necessary, though...you could easily inject spores straight to grain. Hope this helps!
Great vid, ignoring inadvertent thirst trap qualities 🫣, but wish their were measurements. I understand that if you are selling products. Simple, clear instructions and visuals to follow. Quick and succinct. Thanks for the content.
You're welcome! I'm not sure what you mean by thirst trap, will you help me understand? As far as measurements go, I didn't include that in this video because everyone has different needs based on tub size. The calculator on my website is completely free with no tricks, nothing to sign up for, etc and will give you the exact measurements!
